MANAGING PASTURES….For production /profit.

The Old Ram-Australia

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In exploring this topic I think it would be of value to understand what constitutes a productive/profitable pasture.

Remembering that it’s the stock that eats the grass it’s wise to think about what it is the animal needs from the forage it consumes. For a pasture to be productive it seems to me to need the following.

1. Dirversity of species.

2. The ability of the soil to hold and retain moisture.

3. Fertility with adequate amounts of minerals/trace elements.

4. Soil health with a biology that is alive and active.

5. Shelter from the prevailing winds, be they hot or cold.

1. In Australia we are fortunate to have almost of our lands not subjected to months of snow, but we certainly have the other extreme of hot and dry and frequent times of lack of rain. There is a distinct need to have a wide range of both C3 and C4’s of perennial species so soil disturbance is kept to an absolute minimum and to maintain sufficient height so that the next seasons crowns are protected from the extremes of the current one.

2. When we first purchased our current farm is was really quite “run down”, sure in some areas loads and loads of fertilizer had been added over the years by previous owners, but by the time summer came it was generally a stretch of brown where ever you looked. It was not until 2008 when we undertook the “big” change in thinking that I realized that one of the major problems we had was to hold moisture in the soil profile rather than to have it all escape down the drainage lines and off of our farm. I undertook to read and understand the concepts of Peter Andrews “Natural Sequence Farming” to gain an insight of the importance of retaining moisture in the profile when it rains and having a system of “slow release” down the slope controlled by gravity. I have found that if you increase the penetration of moisture at the highest point of the catchment you have the battle half won. There is plenty of research to show the difference between rain drops hitting bare soil and it hitting a surface covered with grass. Generally speaking the rain hitting bare soils “pools” and runs across the surface gathering speed and taking any loose material with it. This was very much the case on our place. Our solution was to change how our fence lines needed to run, enabling better control of livestock grazing. I suspect that our outcomes are similar to the way that beaver ponds manage the snow melts and slowly release the water downstream over summer.

3. The reality is that the very best soils are unlikely to be used for grazing there is more money to be made from cropping. For almost 40 years we have been using a natural mineral mix to support the livestock’s health outcomes it has always been my contention that you feed it to the stock rather than broadcast it all over your paddocks and it is far cheaper and you are sure the benefit is being obtained by the stock.

4. Carrying out what is considered normal practice is a sure way to “kill” most if not all of the life in your soil. Ploughing, weed spraying and the application of artificial fertilizers all combine to set back the natural processers that nature has developed. It is an interesting exercise to fence off an area in the middle of a paddock and not graze it for at least 12 months. We did it in a 40 ac paddock and the area was about 4 acs, we now use this area to spread seed by wind and water to increase diversity in the surrounding paddocks. We now graze this paddock at non-critical times to increase the natural fertility of the paddock.

5. A barrier of say 20mts wide be it a mix of trees species can reduce the damage from searing (much like the hedgerows of old) heat or freezing cold winds and benefit the stock sheltering beside it and if the species to the outside are thorny like Pyracantha or English Hawthorn it can be a predator deterrent as well.(the thorny the better).

The method we used to repair out eroded creek is available as a Power Point it was put together by a faculty at Utah State from our 7 years of monitoring and text, its available for free but it is a 6 MB compressed file ,if you message me I will endeavor to get a copy to you…T.O.R. .....The photos show the same view except 1 is upslope and the other is downslope
IMG_0114.JPG

overhead farm 015.jpg
 

Baymule

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Timely post for me! Our 8 acres is sand. Think beach without the ocean. We have Bermuda, Bahia, crab grasses and tons of tall weeds. Poor fertility, practically no humus and down hill. Elevation drop is about 20 feet front to back with a gully in the middle. Planted 25 pounds of 3 types of Bermuda grass on pipeline right of way. Extremely poor soil on pipeline.

A swale goes across property but has been breached by rain run off. Going to build more swales to catch rain.

Going to plant more grasses in the fall. Putting up fences for pasture rotation. Will not use chemical fertilizers.
 

OneFineAcre

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Timely post for me! Our 8 acres is sand. Think beach without the ocean. We have Bermuda, Bahia, crab grasses and tons of tall weeds. Poor fertility, practically no humus and down hill. Elevation drop is about 20 feet front to back with a gully in the middle. Planted 25 pounds of 3 types of Bermuda grass on pipeline right of way. Extremely poor soil on pipeline.

A swale goes across property but has been breached by rain run off. Going to build more swales to catch rain.

Going to plant more grasses in the fall. Putting up fences for pasture rotation. Will not use chemical fertilizers.
Crabgrass while hated in the suburban lawn is actually quite good forage for livestock
Bahia is used extensively as pasture grass in poor sandy soils in FL
And you have Bermuda
If you don't want to fertilize put the animals on it and put some portable hay feeders and move them around
The waste hay will add Nitrogen
You probably already have the base of good summer forage
In the south our efforts should be more focused on late fall and early spring by over seeding with rye oat and vetch

But personally I would put some fertilizer on it get a good rain on it and let it grow until it needed mowing
Mow it on high and let them at it
 

Southern by choice

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In the south our efforts should be more focused on late fall and early spring by over seeding with rye oat and vetch

Question- off subject a bit ... but in my latest newsletter from CAHFS (UC Davis) ther was a report of Vetch toxicosis- occurring in 5 separate beef cattle herds.... can this also happen in goats? Is it just the purple vetch?
 

Baymule

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I can't tell you the minute details, but I know hairy vetch gets a fungus on it that causes abortions in horse mares. I don't know about goats or sheep, but cows are OK on vetch, maybe because they are ruminants.

@OneFineAcre while the soil is poor, there is earthworm activity. I don't want to burn the worms or microbial activity with chemical fertilizer. It might take a little longer, but I'll use cover crops to increase humus to build the soil.

For those of you who milk, raw milk is a wonderful fertilizer. The bacteria in the milk jump starts the bacteria in the soil, feeding the grass. The ratio is 3 gallons of raw milk to 17 gallons of water, making 20 gallons. Spray on gardens or pastures.
 

OneFineAcre

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Question- off subject a bit ... but in my latest newsletter from CAHFS (UC Davis) ther was a report of Vetch toxicosis- occurring in 5 separate beef cattle herds.... can this also happen in goats? Is it just the purple vetch?

Our friend Heather who worked at the meat goat unit uses a blend including vetch for her goats. Not sure what variety of vetch.
 
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