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Yeah, they do.

She most likely is New Zealand or a cross with NZ. Her color is Chestnut. I have a buck that looks a lot like her and he is a NZW x Silver Fox cross.

I had a similar situation recently. One normal kit and then nothing else for two days until then the doe birthed a fetal giant. It is very hard to regulate the body temperature for a single kit and despite all we did, it died in a day.

We raise meat rabbits and have two-row, hanging, stacked cages with a front door, all wire. I also have a kindling suite hutch, as we call it. It has a wire cage side with baby catching wire up 4 inches. This wire side is encased by wood down to the baby catching wire. The cubby side is wood...

Actually, my rabbits would pull apart the wire floor galvanized before the weld in as little as one day and bad enough that a 2-week old kit could get out, not to mention it is a hazard for them also. We ended up replacing flooring every few weeks, so the cheaper stuff was no bargain in the long...

I have nothing, although I have seen a doe once or twice do a sort of nest redo. :idunno

Nesting boxes can, but I still do not advise it. We use wire only when the weather is warm and lined with cardboard in the winter. Cardboard is replaced with each kindle. I forgot to add 14 gauge. As to the .5 x .5 wires...depends. For a small rabbit possibly. What breed or adult size...

I am assuming the ones advocating a wooden floor are either not really raising rabbits, except as pets, and/or are warning you about sore hocks. .5" x 1" galvanized AFTER weld wire is durable, allows waste to pass through, and does not cause sore hocks for the majority of rabbits. I have a doe...

@promiseacres Interesting about wildlife rescue. A breeder near me has a wolf dog rescue and that is where the majority of her culls go. I think that is why she got into rabbits, but she showed and had quite a few GCs in her lines also.

New Country Organics is the brand we have been getting and for a higher price than you are, abut we buy it from a farm, so while I wish it was lower in price, at least we are supporting local, environment responsible farmers. When we first started and could not find an organic feed source, we...

So, what do you do with your culls?

I hear you and have had my favorites. We started out the same, but then some rabbits just get mean or your breeders get old and possibly are in pain....things just have to be done.

Not immune but many breeders have told me that some rabbits seem to be more susceptible than others. It is more likely that the others could have them, but are not as infested as in for some reason they really don't have as ideal environment to reproduce as well on other rabbits. However, I had...

Most of the movements I have felt are on the lower sides. As to calming a rabbit to accept touching, that is a process. Treats of edible greens might help, but generally you just have to get them used to it. However, you do not have to do this at all, just assume she is pregnant counting from...

If you have eyes on your rabbits 24/7, otherwise by the time you see evidence of aggression, one of your rabbits could seriously injured or worse.

As to finding out if she is pregnant, some palpitate the doe at around two weeks to feel for "marbles" or "grapes." I am pretty good at feeling things out of place with my rabbits, but I have yet to confirm pregnancy until the doe is about 7 to 10 days from her due date. At that time, I gently...

So they have been together for several days? Please assume she is pregnant and you are fortunate because most of my does get rather aggressive with the buck after breeding....whether they were pregnant or not. I would NEVER leave a doe in with a buck until kindling. Even if you remove him as...

Uh, well...you probably could if you go into it with the mindset that you are breeding for the upmost hardy rabbits on hay alone and willing to accept that your pregnant does may perform poorly in milk production and go out of condition, therefore you may have more losses in your kindles with...

I had one that would build a nest immediately after breeding, but not pull fur until just before kindling. I had one that would build a nest the day before she kindled sometimes and other times up to a week before--that one always kept me on my toes. Mine seem to think they are supposed to...

Did she look red in the genital area before you bred her? Did you breed her a second time within an hour or so of first? I really never had to do all this with my NZWs but I have learned I do with my oldest Silver Fox doe, who was always difficult to breed. I have never seen her lift for a buck...