Electric fence & small-scale rotational grazing

ConcernedSheep

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I've had a hard time finding information on rotationally grazing very small areas. We're planning to get some sheep as pets/lawnmowers for our 1.5 acre pasture. My questions are:

1. What's the easiest way to figure out the carrying capacity of pastures in my region? I've searched to the ends of the internet and found nothing except advice for people who already have animals. I understand there's a certain amount of "art" to grazing, but I need to figure out how many animals to start with. I've heard 2-3 is too few, they need a flock, but can our pasture support 4-5? Can I know before grazing them myself? I heard AUM maps exist but I have been unable to find any. When the previous grazier had sheep on this pasture, there were often 15+ at a time, and there was still a lot of plant growth (but he was not rotationally grazing, and also feeding a lot of bread... that's another story).

2. Let's say we land somewhere in the middle and end up with 3-4 sheep. How big should each paddock be? If the paddocks are too small/too large, how can I tell? I see some folks move their animals daily, others weekly or even monthly. Is this just a rhythm we will have to let the animals and the land teach us?

3. There is a permanent shelter in the pasture, but the paddocks would have the sheep moving around. if we create a paddock without shelter will they be okay in the rain/wind? I see folks say sheep don't need a covered shelter, but the thought of them standing out in a storm makes me sad. However I trust the advice of those more knowledgeable than I.

4. How important is soil testing? It isn't too expensive, but seems like kind of a pain. With a small-scale operation like ours, can we just offer mineral supplements and trust the sheep to balance themselves or is that naive?

5. What strength of fence charger should we get for such a small area? I see most of the lower power ones advertised for chickens/small animals, but most of the higher power ones say they're for areas of 20+ acres which seems like overkill for our small paddocks.

I understand I am probably a bit of an over-researcher, apologies if this comes off as neurotic. I know I cannot possibly answer every single question before getting the animals, there will be some things I will have to learn by doing... Thanks in advance for your help!
 

farmerjan

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Okay, first things first... Get ahold of the extension agent for your area. Our taxes pay their salaries... get them to come out and look at it and give you some ideas.

Get a basic soil test done.... you won't even know if some decent grasses will grow if you don't have the "base".... you don't have to have it done every year since you are not doing crops... but find out the basics of the soil and then you can know better what it can/will support with decent rain and a chance to grow without being overgrazed. Soil testing is not a requirement... and you will HAVE to offer mineral/salt for the sheep at all times anyway, reguardless of what the soil test says...

I still think that a chicken tractor that you move daily would get the land better utilized and fertilize it at the same time... but that is a future project.

Go with electrified sheep netting... Premier has some, it is not cheap, but invaluable to use for rotation and the predators will stay out and the sheep will stay in. TSC carries some and so do a few other companies.

Chargers.... Never mind the miles and all that.... IF you go with electrified netting, you get a charger that "low-impedence".... meaning it has a pulsed charge, and will NOT melt or damage any of the poly type electric "wires" and nettings. You need to pay attention to the JOULES.... most of the "miles" is for 1 strand of wire that is 18-30 inches off the ground with NO WEEDS touching it.... They are both plug in to your house electric OR there are a few that are solar/battery powered.
3 JOULES, is usually considered the minimum for sheep... and it will keep stuff ..... PREDATORS.....out also, if used on an electric netting deal.
To do some research... go on the Premier1 company website. They have great information... Yes they are not cheap to buy from... but you can watch their videos and really get some of your questions answered.

Netting will last if you lay it out carefully without dragging it through the weeds... and you keep a mower and weed eater away from the bottom... I put it up by myself... it is not like a single strand... that won't keep the sheep in anyway... but it is not too heavy or hard. It has step in posts... I use the double spike for greater ease to step in and for a little more strength for the fence... SO.... it is very portable... You can move it, make the sections any shape and size you want... make an alley to let them get to the shelter... and yes, rain is not a friend to sheep... they don't especially like to get soaked... especially not in the cold months.

The rotation and moving is something that you will get a feel for... but they should not eat the grass into the dirt... I think that 3-5 would be good to start... and then see how much/how fast they eat a section... Make the section a size that works with the electric netting ... or however many gates or panels you have... and then see how fast they eat that section... Better to start with too FEW.... and have to mow some of it...
It will mostly depend on how good the grass comes back from being over grazed by that person before you... how much is weeds and how much is actual grass... What your weather is and the rainfall.... LOTS of determinations...
 

ConcernedSheep

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Okay, first things first... Get ahold of the extension agent for your area. Our taxes pay their salaries... get them to come out and look at it and give you some ideas.

Get a basic soil test done.... you won't even know if some decent grasses will grow if you don't have the "base".... you don't have to have it done every year since you are not doing crops... but find out the basics of the soil and then you can know better what it can/will support with decent rain and a chance to grow without being overgrazed. Soil testing is not a requirement... and you will HAVE to offer mineral/salt for the sheep at all times anyway, reguardless of what the soil test says...

I still think that a chicken tractor that you move daily would get the land better utilized and fertilize it at the same time... but that is a future project.

Go with electrified sheep netting... Premier has some, it is not cheap, but invaluable to use for rotation and the predators will stay out and the sheep will stay in. TSC carries some and so do a few other companies.

Chargers.... Never mind the miles and all that.... IF you go with electrified netting, you get a charger that "low-impedence".... meaning it has a pulsed charge, and will NOT melt or damage any of the poly type electric "wires" and nettings. You need to pay attention to the JOULES.... most of the "miles" is for 1 strand of wire that is 18-30 inches off the ground with NO WEEDS touching it.... They are both plug in to your house electric OR there are a few that are solar/battery powered.
3 JOULES, is usually considered the minimum for sheep... and it will keep stuff ..... PREDATORS.....out also, if used on an electric netting deal.
To do some research... go on the Premier1 company website. They have great information... Yes they are not cheap to buy from... but you can watch their videos and really get some of your questions answered.

Netting will last if you lay it out carefully without dragging it through the weeds... and you keep a mower and weed eater away from the bottom... I put it up by myself... it is not like a single strand... that won't keep the sheep in anyway... but it is not too heavy or hard. It has step in posts... I use the double spike for greater ease to step in and for a little more strength for the fence... SO.... it is very portable... You can move it, make the sections any shape and size you want... make an alley to let them get to the shelter... and yes, rain is not a friend to sheep... they don't especially like to get soaked... especially not in the cold months.

The rotation and moving is something that you will get a feel for... but they should not eat the grass into the dirt... I think that 3-5 would be good to start... and then see how much/how fast they eat a section... Make the section a size that works with the electric netting ... or however many gates or panels you have... and then see how fast they eat that section... Better to start with too FEW.... and have to mow some of it...
It will mostly depend on how good the grass comes back from being over grazed by that person before you... how much is weeds and how much is actual grass... What your weather is and the rainfall.... LOTS of determinations...

Thank you for the info! I agree a chicken tractor would be easier in some ways, but I have concerns about predator-proofing it, and still getting the weed control we need from them. We'll have a ton of grass growth as soon as it starts raining and I figured sheep would be better for eating it down reliably.
 

canesisters

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As always @farmerjan has given fantastic info.
I'd just add 1 little piece of info. With cows, I was told to rotate paddocks when there had been: 1/3 grazed, 1/3 trampled, 1/3 left.

Oh - also try googling wagon wheel rotation paddocks. Perhaps you can set up something like that around your shelter? When I do it here, since my barn is at the end of a long rectangular pasture, have 1 long corridor along the edge of the pasture & several paddocks off of that.
 

ConcernedSheep

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As always @farmerjan has given fantastic info.
I'd just add 1 little piece of info. With cows, I was told to rotate paddocks when there had been: 1/3 grazed, 1/3 trampled, 1/3 left.

Oh - also try googling wagon wheel rotation paddocks. Perhaps you can set up something like that around your shelter? When I do it here, since my barn is at the end of a long rectangular pasture, have 1 long corridor along the edge of the pasture & several paddocks off of that.

Yes! This is actually how I had drawn out my initial plans to rotate around the shelter, but thought it might be a little silly. Looks perfect for us to keep the shelter in there 24/7 :) Thank you!
 

Baymule

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By keeping your shelter at the center of the paddocks, you don’t have to chase all over with water tubs. One location for water and feed-easiest on you!

Your best bet would probably be wethers, castrated males. They can be pets as well. If you keep breeding stock, you have to have separate shelter and paddock for the ram, separate shelter and paddock for lambs when you wean them, and lambs have to be separated ram lambs from ewe lambs.
 

ConcernedSheep

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A couple updates here:

1. I called the USDA extension office, and the person I spoke to seemed confused by my questions about having someone out to check our pasture. But she was able to tell me that the carrying capacity for my region is 7 AU/acre?? Which seems insane to me, but I guess it means I have lots of wiggle room on herd size.

2. On that note, we found someone who's rehoming 5 older ewes, retired from breeding, so we're considering an all-ewe herd (with no intention to breed, just to let them graze and be retired). 5 is more than we wanted initially, but it seems the pasture can support it if we rotate thoughtfully. Any downsides to this idea, besides possibly needing to rotate more frequently with 5?

3. Next steps for us are soil testing and fencing.
 

SageHill

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Wow - that sounds nice 5 retired ewes (assuming they are healthy). They will clear out your land (as long as it's stuff they want to eat) and you'll be supplementing. Though - not knowing your area you may be ok?? Here we are only green for a few months, then crunchy brown.
 

canesisters

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YES on the soil testing! Do that before everything else.
That "carrying capacity" this seems like a bunch of hooey to me. Walmart has 2 acres of parking lot, not much grazing. The small section of grass between my barn & coop is roughly 50'x50' & can be grazed to the ground over & over and it will pop back up within a week. If I had even a little bit of pasture like that I'd be able to cut my hay bill in half.
 

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