Fair Price?

[aggieterpkatie]

I am looking at a couple of purebred NZ's and there's a 14 wk old doe for $50 and a 3 yr old doe for $40 with papers and $30 with no papers. I'm a little more interested in a doe I can breed right away, but I worry that $30 (I don't need papers) is a little high for a 3 yr old doe. At what age do does stop breeding?

 

[Ms. Research]

I am looking at a couple of purebred NZ's and there's a 14 wk old doe for $50 and a 3 yr old doe for $40 with papers and $30 with no papers. I'm a little more interested in a doe I can breed right away, but I worry that $30 (I don't need papers) is a little high for a 3 yr old doe. At what age do does stop breeding?

IMHO, the 3 year old doe MIGHT be a little old. I've read that you must breed a doe before she is 1 year old. If not, her pelvic bone fuses then and she would never have a live litter. I would look a doe younger but proven. Around 1 or 1-1/2? But that's me because I have never bred bunnies before. And I would want a younger doe because I feel a 3 years old, she should be ready to retire. I know some breed them older, usually I see this in meat breeders. That's also something to think about too. Are they meat? Or was it 4-H? I apologize if I don't remember.

Anyway, that's my opinion. Hope it helps.

 

[dewey]

On the flip side, this view is a little different. Depending on the old does history, current health, and how she's been bred in the past, for $30 you might get several nice does to grow out as stock from just 1 litter, plus some for the freezer if it's for meat purposes or even a nice buck to grow out...even if it's the does last litter. You might get several more litters. $30 sounds reasonable for a proven, healthy doe, that's raised recent litters, even if she's only raising 6 kits per. Older does are cheaper for a reason. It's true they can begin to wind down on numbers and are start hitting the age where problems start to come up, but it can be a good way to get started quick. Starting with the young ones is a good way to go, too, but since starting right away is what you're after, I'd gamble with the old doe and maybe also get a young one. Adult stock is hard to come by but just about everyone eventually has to thin out their herds. This is where dealing with a reputable breeder is invaluable.

 

[Ms. Research]

On the flip side, this view is a little different. Depending on the old does history, current health, and how she's been bred in the past, for $30 you might get several nice does to grow out as stock from just 1 litter, plus some for the freezer if it's for meat purposes or even a nice buck to grow out...even if it's the does last litter. You might get several more litters. $30 sounds reasonable for a proven, healthy doe, that's raised recent litters, even if she's only raising 6 kits per. Older does are cheaper for a reason. It's true they can begin to wind down on numbers and are start hitting the age where problems start to come up, but it can be a good way to get started quick. Starting with the young ones is a good way to go, too, but since starting right away is what you're after, I'd gamble with the old doe and maybe also get a young one. Adult stock is hard to come by but just about everyone eventually has to thin out their herds. This is where dealing with a reputable breeder is invaluable.

Thanks for the flip side. You gave me something to think about.

 

[aggieterpkatie]

Yes, they are for meat. And that's what I was hoping...about getting at least one good litter from the older doe. Hmm. It gives me something to think about. Thanks!

 

[dewey]

Good luck! If you got the old doe (already bred by a buck at the other barn) and a young doe, you could keep a buck out of the old doe, and by the time the young doe was breeding age you'd have a ready buck. On the chance that it'd be the old doe's last litter, it'd save you having to buy a buck right now plus save a couple of months in feed while he sits idle waiting for the younger doe to mature.

 

[aggieterpkatie]

Good luck! If you got the old doe (already bred by a buck at the other barn) and a young doe, you could keep a buck out of the old doe, and by the time the young doe was breeding age you'd have a ready buck. On the chance that it'd be the old doe's last litter, it'd save you having to buy a buck right now plus save a couple of months in feed while he sits idle waiting for the younger doe to mature.

Oops they are Californians. She only has one buck so all her rabbits are related. I have a buck I'm trying to sell now. He's an !american chin / silver fox cross that I could breed her with.

 

[homesteadapps]

My main concern if buying a grown rabbit is -- Why is the breeder selling a productive rabbit?

 

[greymane]

I have seen a lot of breeders move "older" does to make room for younger or more productive stock, but that is a good question to ask. Sometimes there are only so many cages to go around and they have to choose one over another.

 

[aggieterpkatie]

Well, I think she's just making room for other stock. She's got a small rabbitry. I think I'm going to buy a NZ/Cal mix doe. She's 10 weeks and $30. Unfortunately I don't have a very big budget to purchase a doe, plus my buck is a cross so there's no reason for me to get a papered doe.