Fawn Mini Rexs

xoxocammyxoxo

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So in my search for mini rexs I've decided to focus primarily on reds for now. Eventually I want to get into red brokens. But in my search I came across some rexs labeled as fawn. Does anyone know if these "fawn" rabbits are the "tan" rabbits that are currently being developed to be accepted by ARBA?
 

yannimom

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From what I understand, red mini rex are rather difficult to get right. If you are just starting, you may want to consider another color that is a bit easier to get the color right (after type, of course :))
 

xoxocammyxoxo

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No, I'm going to start with the reds. If they are hard to get, then it will just take me longer to get started :D
 

xoxocammyxoxo

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Never mind I answered my own question.

For those who want to know,
Fawns are not the Tans listed on the COD list on ARBA.
 

therealsilkiechick

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i bred 2 rabbits i had and to my suprise had an odd colored kit it ended up it was a red. he is a solid red buck i bred to one of my does not long ago. 1 of the 4 kits in nest now is solid red also. they r very rare here so i have decided to stick with them also. the baby is to young to tell if it is male or female but reguardless it will be staying for a futer breeder. i also bred my buck again to a different doe but she hasn't had them yet, i'm really excited to see what she has when she kindles.

sometimes i see broken reds listed her for sale but they r close to charlies or missmarked. far as i know i'm the only red breeder in my area that has solid reds.

if u'd like to see my buck he is the one on my website named remmington or remi, i think i have baby pics of him also on there. his baby is under britannia's litter but i'll try to take updated pics soon of it cuz it has fur now. if ya need help breeding the reds feel free to pm me. i can check their pedigrees if needed.

actual red is arba recognised but i have never heard of a fawn or tan mini rex. u have me curious so i'll have to do some research also. :)
 

dbunni

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Look in Ohio ... there are some awsome red MR breeders here. See them on the show table all the time.
 

dbunni

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therealsilkiechick said:
sometimes i see broken reds listed her for sale but they r close to charlies or missmarked. far as i know i'm the only red breeder in my area that has solid reds.

:)
Sorry ... just a thought ... let us remember that a true charlie, not a false charlie, is a strong asset to any broken breeding program. As a general rule, they have the best coat and can be readily bred to solids to create great coated brokens. Proof positive ... I have done it ... and have seen and purchased some awsome MR with true charlies behind them. One of our best show producers was a true charlie doe. her coat and body were amazing. Just missing a couple dots!
 

Bunnylady

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I agree with dbunni - a "Charlie" is a rabbit with two broken genes. If you breed it to a solid, all of the kits will be brokens, having inherited one broken gene from the Charlie, and one solid gene from the solid parent. The broken pattern itself has many variations, with rabbits with little more than white feet at one extreme to Hotots at the other. You have to have the broken gene to get the broken pattern, but just how it is expressed depends on what modifiers are present in that rabbit. You can have a rabbit with only one broken gene, that has only color around its eyes and a little on the ears. That rabbit is not a "Charlie," even though it may look like one. If bred to a solid, it can produce solids. This "psuedo-Charlie" rabbit has modifiers that produce a mostly-white broken pattern, so a lot of its offspring will have a mostly-white pattern as well. There aren't degrees of "Charlieness," either it is or it isn't.

On the matter of Reds, this is a good Red (talking about the color here, not necessarily type!).
bunnypics011.jpg


This rabbit has such good color because he has Chocolate genes, and rufous modifiers. The rufous modifiers increase the amount of red pigment in the coat, you have to have them to get that rich color that runs all the way down the sides. Without them, the color gets pretty washed out, particularly on the sides. The non-extension gene doesn't get all of the dark pigment out of the coat, there will be a little bit on the very tips of the hairs. If it were black, it would look smutty. Because this buck is genetically Chocolate, his dark pigment is brown, which is rather close to red/orange, so it doesn't show up as much. When I breed him to does with Chocolate genes, I get nice Reds. I have a daughter of his that inherited black from her mother (sorry, don't have a picture of her). While she got all the rufous for a good, deep red color, the black ticking is very obvious. Close, but no cookie! This is why a lot of people that breed Reds don't cross them with other colors. The genes that make a Red aren't rare at all, but getting all of them together out of sheer luck is nearly impossible. If the OP wants to breed Reds, the best way is simply to buy some, rather than hoping to "make" some.

And on the matter of Fawns, I have seen some, including in my own nest boxes. It isn't a recognized color, but not hard to get from crossing some pretty common colors.
 

xoxocammyxoxo

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The plan, as it stands today, is to purchase two red does and two red bucks, preferably from show lines, hopefully from champion lines, along with a red broken doe or two.

I would love to find a couple fawn does out of showing lines. I know they are not a recognized color. I've already filled out the ARBA membership form to send in with my 3 year membership and am planning to start a fawn program with the intent of contacting ARBA for a Certificate of Development (if no one beats me to it).

It's a process, a long process but I don't want to start the COD until I'm sure that I've got something going on which means it's still going to be a while. I at least have one thing going for me in that I understand the genetics behind the genotype and phenotype of a rabbit so of course getting the conformation/type of a rabbit is more important than the color, obviously. But of course this is why it takes a while to develop these things. They just don't happen over night.:cool:
 

dbunni

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Just FYI ... to get COD you need to have been a member in good standing for ... I think it is 5 years. The only reason I am aware of this is that we are working on the COD for Giant Angoras ... Black holds COD, otter soon to come. But then, if you are working on a new color, it will take time to make it "solid" ... all fawns on pedigree, etc.

you can contact ARBA director in charge of CODs, Cheryl ... angora breeder in HI ... to find out who holds what CODs and if there is a back up individual for it.

Good luck .. it is a challenge!
 
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