How to get started?

[DellaMyDarling]

Here's what I've got going on for bird setup.

The plan is to erect timber framing around the chain link kennels, use the timbers to support framing over the kennels for metal roofing sheets.
Very temporary tarp erected over one run.
She's a big hot mess, but work in progress.

So, now you can see it, does it still seem possible to hang rabbit cages in these runs? Imagining several wood beams going across the kennels for the roof support, I'm thinking that's what I could hang the rabbit cages from. I have never seen a hanging cage, I'll have to Google it.

 

[Baymule]

You need to build the roof high enough to walk in. If I get this right, you mean to enclose the timber frame with the kennel panels. Basically, build a barn with a walk-in high roof, use the panels to predator proof it.

You will need at least one solid wall to block winter wind. You want to keep the sun from beaming in on them. In the summer they can overheat and die from heat stroke. You can cover the outside walls from the top down, level with the bottom of the cages, then wire from there to the ground. That will keep the sun off them. You need the wire at the bottom for ventilation. You can cover it in the winter if your winters are severe. The front panel and the gate would be great, put it on the south side, the sun rises in the east, sets in the west, and the cold winter wind comes from the north.

Instead of building your barn to fit the kennel, build the barn to fit your needs and use the panels where possible. You will be a lot happier with the results.

Where do you live, general location? You can add that to your avatar. Knowing your climate would help in advising you on building your barn.

 

[DellaMyDarling]

We will not be able to move any kennel panels, they're staying put. A timber frame will be erected on the outside to make support for a roof.
I'm thinking maybe two cages in one run and three in the other. Five, yea? For a breeding trio? Gives a grow out or two or grow out and extra or...

Knowing the buns need side shelter as well, some cages could be against the barn wall in that currently tarped run, then I can add siding around as needed. The currently not covered run we'll need to be more creative, but that's what our scrap pile and the Mister's brain is for! I don't imagine things well, he's the resident engineer.

 

[Pastor Dave]

The main thing to remember on rabbits is out of the wind and dry. A rabbit does pretty good in winter wearing its fur coat as long as you can keep it dry and keep the wind off them. A cold, wet rabbit is a dead rabbit. I mentioned before, a wooden box with drainage holes for the bottom, like a nest box, with straw to burrough in does great for single rabbits. A meat pen gets body heat from each other.

In the summer, air movement is beneficial. Use 2 or 3 liter bottles with water. Leave room for expansion and freeze. A fur coat in summer is bad. I give mine the frozen bottles if it hits abt 90degs or I see them panting. A floor tile that's been refrigerated or frozen helps to lie on too.

Try to keep them in cool water for hot months. I use 32oz water bottles. Some use crocks and put in ice cubes. It gets dirtier a lot faster. In winter, they need thawed water at least twice a day. That may be as often as a wild rabbit drinks. I try to shoot for giving them thawed water mid day too. I usually just swap out with extra bottles from the house.

That should be enough to do ya for a while

 

[Ron Bequeath]

Had rabbits in Ohio zone 5a and zone 5b,6a and have rabbits in zone 5b,6a in Pennsylvania. Always kept them outside seem to be more comfortable that way and being cooler could breed them all times of the year. Just keep drafts down in the winter and lots of hay and they seem to do great.

 

[GypsyG]

I raise mostly meatmutts, but standard chinchilla rabbits keep my rabbitry bills paid. They are laid back and calm, enjoy attention, don't require near as much feed to get them to butcher weight as Newzealands, have great meat to bone ratio and high quality pelts. I don't know about where you are from, but here in MO, I have no problem getting $45 for an 8 week old kit, or $65 for any over 16 weeks old.

 

[BranscumFarm]

I know, it's recommended to go get some books and read up...but that's why we invented forums
(I will, get the books, and read up over the winter.)

I am hoping that next summer I can begin a meat rabbit operation.
I never plan to show, but I do want a dual purpose rabbit breed that can fetch me money as pets as well as our own meats.
I've been trying to research for months and just coming up empty handed on answers.
I understand I likely want a breeding trio, but I am also hoping to keep my start up costs minimal.

1. What breeds do you recommend as a dual purpose pet and meat? I wish to avoid the freaky red eye business.

2. I keep seeing rabbit cages for sale, but I feel like they are too small to be kind. Give me the low down on true rabbit cage needs (probably talking the bigger breeds.)

3. Along with the above question, I felt like my breeders should enjoy pasture time. I picture rabbit tractors to move around either for day use or even built for full time cages (if I did a full time tractor, I'd make a paver stone parking spot so nothing digs under at night to eat my buns.) Is this fantasy land rabbitry? And, suddenly occurred to me, what does one do in the winter? New England mountain weather here.

4. What do you feel is a realistic start up cost to a rabbitry, presuming I do not have a darn thing to get started with? (We often can gather building materials of all sorts free or cheap.)

5. Is there risks or dangers to buying rabbit goods or rabbits themselves off Craigslist?


Thanks

I answered many of these questions on my channel. And you might can find some other good info.
www.youtube.com/BranscumFarm

1. New Zealand (Red, black, and blue dont have red eyes, Silver Fox heritage Reed good for meat and pelt, Californian they have red eye but good, Rex they come in all colors, smaller the first 3 but very nice fur. That would be my top 4.
2. 30 x 24 or 30 x 30 or 30 x 36 for does. I have short arms so I like 30 x 24 so I can reach the back of cage.
24 x 24 for bucks. This is inches.
That is minimum for large breeds. Grow outs can have bucks pulled and put in 30 x 30 cage. Does can stay with mom till butcher or put in a different 30 x 30 cage.
I would not keep more then 4-5 together. Unless you have a larger pen and multiple feeders.
3. I dont have room for tractors. Unless you have a pasture I would not recommend.
4. If you can find someone getting out of rabbits you might find a good deal. If you are handy I would build. You can buy but I would make sure it is good quality wire. My tractor supply cages lasted about 3 years now they are getting rusted and falling apart. The ones I built the same time still look like new. The wire matters. Dont go cheap on cages. Price really depends on where you live.
5. I would also buy good starting stock. You will save money in the long run on feed growing out the rabbits. You can get cheap rabbits but spend on feed that they end up costing more. Good stock that hits 5 lb at 10 weeks will save you on cost in the long run.