hutch building Qs and keeping cool Q

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So I went out and bought several 2x3s and have two rolls of 15ft wire. Got a pic below of the plan. 3ft deep by 6ft long.
I'm wondering what the best floor would be; wire to let poo and pee fall away, solid wood or a half wood and half wire floor?
Winter in Virginia can get pretty cold and summers just plain nasty.
Should I have just the front open to air via wire mesh, 2 sides or 3 sides? I can make side doors of wood to close in winter and rain.
Since rabbits can't take the heat, I was wondering if I have a bin full of dirt, will that help? Chickens, dogs, cats all dig holes and lay in it during hot days, I'm sure rabbits would do the same. Frozen water bottles last a crazy short time. I've used them in the past to try and cool my fish tanks, but within 30min, they are melted and the same temp as the water. And that can be 85-87F, tanks are in the house, shaded, insulated and a fan going to keep them cool. It's all still no good.
Is 3ft by 3ft a good amount of room for each rabbit? I'll add a large pen for them later on, maybe wait until spring, for them to run and exercise. They will be a meat breeding pair, but I still want them to have some luxuries, not just popping out food for us..
Most likely the hutch will be up against the house on the west side. House shading it in the morning, trees shading it partly midday and trees shading in the evening.

 

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Stop gawking and post something! 27 views...no one has any tips, eh? Slackers! lol

Well, the wood is all cut! I just need one more top bit of wood. Going with 4.5ft not 4ft for the roof, might change once it's mostly together.

 

[Ms. Research]

I'll answer your request and show I'm not a gawker. I think it's an excellent plan.

Regarding the floor, wire is good with a shelf to catch the urine and poop. If you go and look at Hoodat's excellent plan for waste removal, I think this would go well with your building plan. Wood gets soaked with urine and is very hard to keep clean, IMHO. That's why most breeders use wire cages.

I think your plans for the winter and summer months are really thought out.

Regarding cage size, if you plan to give them an exercise run, I think you can get away with the cage size you posted.

Rabbits love to dig and using cool dirt could be an advantage to keep them cool.

Hope this comment helps. All I can say is do what's best for you and your breeding herd. You seem to have it figured out. Just time to start with the buns. BTW, which breed do you think you will go with? That's also a consideration regarding cage size, but then again that exercise area is still a good idea. New Zealands seem to be the big meat breed. But I did read that Tans are good for meat and show. And they are a smaller rabbit. Just my thoughts thrown in there.

Good Luck in your venture.

 

[Theykeepmebusy]

I'm going to go FB with it....like...like...like.... like..... I'm in the process of building a few 4 or 5 hutches/runs no plans tho, very spontaneous decision made yesterday

 

[dewey]

Lean-to's like that for rabbits work really well. I'm in one of the hottest places on earth so can't speak with much experience on severe cold-proofing (although the ranch up north commonly sees 40 degrees below but that's another issue).

Wire bottoms are the most sanitary and easy to maintain. Wood is warmer but hard to clean. Side shutters are good in cold weather as long as they keep rain out, and roll-down tarps can be used to drape/button up the entire set up as needed to keep the wind and elements out. Some folks keep a box in the cages during the cold weather and/or practically stuff the whole cage with straw.

Even in our mild winters here in the desert we get sudden cold snaps and often the buns have no time to adjust from 80 degree hot spell days to below freezing nights. In the winter I keep flakes of straw on top of the cages and stuffed between when possible, and also run a heater in the barn to keep it above freezing in the coldest times ...but usually not needed but for the harsh sudden changes. Sudden temp changes are hard on them.

West exposures are great in winter but killers in summer without shade all day.

That size divided in half is fine for 2 large meat rabbits. Keep in mind it's difficult to reach corners of a 3' deep cage even if the doors are centered. If the cages are going to sit on the wood supports, adding small 4x2" blocks on the top of the wood beams to support/elevate the cages somewhat off the main beams for cleaning will be of great help. They usually have to be wired on at the bottoms to prevent cage movement (which creates cleaning hassles). Even then you'll have to lift the cages several times a week to scrub the wood beams and blocks to keep them half way sanitary. Any place that wood touches the wire will quickly build up. Lifting the cages and reaching under the cages to the back to clean wood supports of even 28" deep cages is no easy task.

Cages hung from the roof so that wood beams under the cages aren't needed is a great way. It's easier to work out the bugs beforehand than to alter afterwards. Good luck! All the great meat is worth all the effort.

 

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I have no idea what breed, was going to post a thread about that. If I use a wood water stain or high gloss paint, won't that help with keeping the muck from soaking in?

 

[Bossroo]

For the most sanitary bottom wire conditions... Instead of the wood for floor support for under the wire cages... streatch 2 heavy gage wires, 1/3 of the way from each side under the cages and attach that wire to the long end of the cage end wood pieces, then clip that wire and wire cage bottom together. This will give you plenty of support for the bottom wires. The dirt in a box may sound good, however the small amount of dirt in a container ( unlike in the great outdoors) will heat up to ambient temperature in short order so the rabbits won't benefit from it. Also, female rabbits are very territorial, so the play area will not be very practical as more often than not, the female will display aggression toward the male causing him stress and/ or physical damage. Not to mention the male will breed the female within seconds every chance that he can get. She will get pregnant every time too. (The female rabbit can/ will get pregnant right after kindling.) Overpopulation and animal hoarding in quick order.

 

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They won't be out together unless I divide the run.
Any pics of the stretched wire idea?

 

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Hah, ok, well I kinda messed up a wee bit. But it's looking ok so far. I'm making the back clap board style, it'll match the house that way and easier to do. A big bit of wood to go up on the back won't fit in either car, no trucks for us..
Ran outta 2x3 at 6ft, had to use fence boards for that and that's what is on the back. Not sure what I will use for the roof just yet. Gotta put up the wire on the sides and then make and put up the front doors.
Oh the fun I'm having!!

 

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Sides are just tied on, won't finish until tomorrow.