WallTenters
Chillin' with the herd
We have done a lot of research, and have been trying to narrow down how we want our rabbitry set up to provide healthy animals, healthy meat, and healthy fertilizer.
Here are our current plans, we would really appreciate good/negative feedback so we can improve them. We are getting our first breeders at the end of this month (just weaned), so we have some time still before we need to be ready for litters. Our rabbits will be NZ crosses (various), meat type rabbits.
Breeding Doe Cages
Built on top of a 8'longx4'widex3'deep bin filled with dirt (bin itself made from old pallets). Wire top cage, bin there to allow natural burrowing behavior. We have not decided if we should have just one or two does per bin - not sure on space.
When does are between litters, will be turned out in a rabbit tractor. During that time, the pen will have been cleaned of manure and savings applied. Does will be bred their last week in the tractor.
During winter months, does will be rotated from one extra bin to their own to keep cleanliness and to allow for natural parasite reduction via a no-host period of three-four weeks.
Meat Rabbits
After weaning in the bins, young rabbits will be moved to a rabbit tractor, where they will graze (and be supplemented with pellets) until butcher ready. During winter months, they will instead stay in a colony-style enclosure, not totally sure on specifics yet as we aren't sure on how many does we will want kindling throughout the winter - we may want a break after summer!
Breeding Bucks
When not in use, breeding bucks will have their own traditional wire cages in the winter or a small tractor in the summer time for each buck.
At this point, our main focus is healthy, rotational practices that minimize time spent in each individual's cage. We would like to leave each cage empty for at least one full month at least twice per year. During empty days, Does will either be in a tractor or in a seperate spare bin to kindle.
We are only getting two does to start, but would like to grow to no more than ten does.
Any advice appreciated!
Here are our current plans, we would really appreciate good/negative feedback so we can improve them. We are getting our first breeders at the end of this month (just weaned), so we have some time still before we need to be ready for litters. Our rabbits will be NZ crosses (various), meat type rabbits.
Breeding Doe Cages
Built on top of a 8'longx4'widex3'deep bin filled with dirt (bin itself made from old pallets). Wire top cage, bin there to allow natural burrowing behavior. We have not decided if we should have just one or two does per bin - not sure on space.
When does are between litters, will be turned out in a rabbit tractor. During that time, the pen will have been cleaned of manure and savings applied. Does will be bred their last week in the tractor.
During winter months, does will be rotated from one extra bin to their own to keep cleanliness and to allow for natural parasite reduction via a no-host period of three-four weeks.
Meat Rabbits
After weaning in the bins, young rabbits will be moved to a rabbit tractor, where they will graze (and be supplemented with pellets) until butcher ready. During winter months, they will instead stay in a colony-style enclosure, not totally sure on specifics yet as we aren't sure on how many does we will want kindling throughout the winter - we may want a break after summer!
Breeding Bucks
When not in use, breeding bucks will have their own traditional wire cages in the winter or a small tractor in the summer time for each buck.
At this point, our main focus is healthy, rotational practices that minimize time spent in each individual's cage. We would like to leave each cage empty for at least one full month at least twice per year. During empty days, Does will either be in a tractor or in a seperate spare bin to kindle.
We are only getting two does to start, but would like to grow to no more than ten does.
Any advice appreciated!