this is the same goat I've talked about recently. when I cleaned her wounds today three maggots came out. I understand they will eat the dead flesh, but will they then move into healthy flesh? I don't really know how to determine what is good "maggot therapy" and what is harmful to her.
maggots in wounds
- Thread starter bj taylor
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Were they small little maggots or big ones? Could be larvae
if large ones from the big flies. Usually only 1-2 if the biggest
flies, instead of numerous little rice sized larvae from regular
flies. Either way, I would be removing them, covering the wound
with something so flies have no access to wet flesh for laying
eggs and creating flystrike. Wounds like that do not get better,
only worse because the healing process can't take place.
We also have large flies, which dig into animals, so they can lay
eggs to hatch under the skin, grow into flies in a protected
location. One egg to a bite hole. Local name is Warbles, not sure why or which
fly species to name as the correct species which does that. We
check lumps under the skin, often have to open the lump and
squeeze out the larvae so animal can heal. Usually on bigger
animals, but have found them on the barn cat, sheep as well
as horses and calf. Totally gross-out for me, and you have to
clean the hole, under the skin, so it will heal well, before covering
the wound hole from other flies.
Some of the powdered wound treatments could be the best
thing for those open holes. Clean it well, use Dial soap, then
apply the powder to cake over the raw tissue. Powder caking on
the tissue should make a good cover, not leave places for the flies
to bite again. May need to put it on a couple times, so you get
good coverage. Wound heals under the "fake scab" and it falls
off when animal doesn't need it anymore. In the old days,
they used tar, pitch, nasty things to cover those wounds on the
animals and prevent more flies getting in there. Not recommended
these days when there are better alternatives for tame animals.
Maggots used in supervised wound healing are STERILE and clean, not
carrying disease. They are raised in clean settings, not from
flies walking over piles of manure or who knows what else! I
wouldn't tolerate a wound with maggots on my animal, that has
to be cleaned and treated immediately, so it can heal.
if large ones from the big flies. Usually only 1-2 if the biggest
flies, instead of numerous little rice sized larvae from regular
flies. Either way, I would be removing them, covering the wound
with something so flies have no access to wet flesh for laying
eggs and creating flystrike. Wounds like that do not get better,
only worse because the healing process can't take place.
We also have large flies, which dig into animals, so they can lay
eggs to hatch under the skin, grow into flies in a protected
location. One egg to a bite hole. Local name is Warbles, not sure why or which
fly species to name as the correct species which does that. We
check lumps under the skin, often have to open the lump and
squeeze out the larvae so animal can heal. Usually on bigger
animals, but have found them on the barn cat, sheep as well
as horses and calf. Totally gross-out for me, and you have to
clean the hole, under the skin, so it will heal well, before covering
the wound hole from other flies.
Some of the powdered wound treatments could be the best
thing for those open holes. Clean it well, use Dial soap, then
apply the powder to cake over the raw tissue. Powder caking on
the tissue should make a good cover, not leave places for the flies
to bite again. May need to put it on a couple times, so you get
good coverage. Wound heals under the "fake scab" and it falls
off when animal doesn't need it anymore. In the old days,
they used tar, pitch, nasty things to cover those wounds on the
animals and prevent more flies getting in there. Not recommended
these days when there are better alternatives for tame animals.
Maggots used in supervised wound healing are STERILE and clean, not
carrying disease. They are raised in clean settings, not from
flies walking over piles of manure or who knows what else! I
wouldn't tolerate a wound with maggots on my animal, that has
to be cleaned and treated immediately, so it can heal.
Chevoner
Exploring the pasture
It is my understanding that healthy flesh will not be affected; this is what I was once told by a vet. However from what I've just read, the exception may be fly strike. There may be no difference between green bottle fly larvae and fly strike (aka: myiasis).
Here is what I just found, but it speaks of rabbits...
"The symptoms, treatment and prevention of fly strike in rabbits
Fly strike (Myiasis) is predominantly caused by the green bottle fly (Lucilia sericata) and related fly species which lay eggs on living rabbits. The green bottle flies are attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent glands.
Fly strike (Myiasis) is predominantly caused by the green bottle fly (Lucilia sericata) and related fly species which lay eggs on living rabbits. The green bottle flies are attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent glands. They lay their eggs on or around the rabbit's rear end where they hatch within hours into maggots that eat into the rabbit's flesh, eating it alive and releasing toxins in the process. Fly strike in domestic rabbits is a common problem throughout the summer months.
Symptoms
Flies will strike any healthy animal, but generally those that have a wet and dirty groin area are most at risk. Any rabbit which is unable to clean itself properly may become infected, typically this includes obese rabbits, females with large dewlaps, or skin folds around their abdomen, rabbits with urinary problems, elderly or arthritic rabbits, long-coated breeds, and rabbits with teeth problems who are unable to groom themselves. Wounds also provide a perfect place for the fly to lay its eggs, as the odour and moisture from the flesh attracts them.
Treatment
If you find maggots on or around your rabbits anus immediate veterinary attention is required and the situation should be treated as an emergency. If possible, ring ahead, so that the vet can be prepared for your arrival and treat your rabbit immediately as your rabbit will probably be in pain and shock and will require careful nursing if it is to survive.
If you can not get to a vet immediately, then pick off as many of the external maggots as you can, using a pair of tweezers. The maggots which have burrowed into the flesh can be encouraged to the surface of the skin, by heat such as a warm, damp towel. Ideally you should avoid wetting the rabbits coat, as damp fur will clog the clippers that vets use to shave the infected areas, however, dipping your rabbits rear into water can help to get rid of some maggots providing the area is dried afterwards.
The preferred method of treatment for fly strike is to remove the maggots using tweezers and shave off any damp or dirty fur. This should be carried out by your veterinarian as the rabbits skin is very thin and tears easily. Your vet will not only have skilled and experienced staff on hand but they will also be able to administer sedation or an anaesthetic to make the process easier, which in turn will ensure that your rabbit does not experience discomfort. Rabbits that have fly strike will also often need antibiotics to prevent infection. Anti-inflammatory and pain killing drugs are sometimes also administered.
Prevention
Fly strike is a distressing and potentially fatal condition which can be prevented by a few simple measures. Unfortunately we cannot eliminate flies from the rabbits environment and therefore we should keep a watch full eye over the rabbit, especially during the summer months.
Remove all soiled bedding daily
Ensure that your rabbit is not being overfed, as this can result in diarrhoea, leading to a dirty groin
Feed greens and fruit in moderation, as some rabbits can not tolerate an over-abundance of green food, again leading to diarrhoea and a dirty anus . For the same reason, take care when putting your rabbit out on the lawn in the summer, not to allow too much access to fresh grass
Check your rabbit twice daily to ensure that it is clean and dry. This includes house rabbits, who can also be at risk
Disinfect hutches every week.
Keep the rabbit dry and use a cleanser to remove faeces
Keep the hair around the anus very short by trimming with scissors or clippers.
Ridding the environment of flies, by means of chemical insecticides may damage the environment, animals, and people along with the flies. Fly traps catch many flies but not all. Repellents may work temporarily, but one must remember to use them repeatedly. Screens on doors and windows reduce the number of flies that get into the house, but some slip through.
Nylon netting can be used to cover outdoor hutches and runs, to prevent flies entering your rabbits environment. It can also be used to create inner fly doors in sheds. But do take care not to trap any flies inside when hanging it.
A number of plants can be used to repel insects and flies. Some may be planted in pots to sit on top of outdoor hutches or near runs, whilst others may be dried and hung in the home, or the rabbit shed. Just make sure that all these plants are out of reach of your rabbit."
Here is what I just found, but it speaks of rabbits...
"The symptoms, treatment and prevention of fly strike in rabbits
Fly strike (Myiasis) is predominantly caused by the green bottle fly (Lucilia sericata) and related fly species which lay eggs on living rabbits. The green bottle flies are attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent glands.
Fly strike (Myiasis) is predominantly caused by the green bottle fly (Lucilia sericata) and related fly species which lay eggs on living rabbits. The green bottle flies are attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent glands. They lay their eggs on or around the rabbit's rear end where they hatch within hours into maggots that eat into the rabbit's flesh, eating it alive and releasing toxins in the process. Fly strike in domestic rabbits is a common problem throughout the summer months.
Symptoms
Flies will strike any healthy animal, but generally those that have a wet and dirty groin area are most at risk. Any rabbit which is unable to clean itself properly may become infected, typically this includes obese rabbits, females with large dewlaps, or skin folds around their abdomen, rabbits with urinary problems, elderly or arthritic rabbits, long-coated breeds, and rabbits with teeth problems who are unable to groom themselves. Wounds also provide a perfect place for the fly to lay its eggs, as the odour and moisture from the flesh attracts them.
Treatment
If you find maggots on or around your rabbits anus immediate veterinary attention is required and the situation should be treated as an emergency. If possible, ring ahead, so that the vet can be prepared for your arrival and treat your rabbit immediately as your rabbit will probably be in pain and shock and will require careful nursing if it is to survive.
If you can not get to a vet immediately, then pick off as many of the external maggots as you can, using a pair of tweezers. The maggots which have burrowed into the flesh can be encouraged to the surface of the skin, by heat such as a warm, damp towel. Ideally you should avoid wetting the rabbits coat, as damp fur will clog the clippers that vets use to shave the infected areas, however, dipping your rabbits rear into water can help to get rid of some maggots providing the area is dried afterwards.
The preferred method of treatment for fly strike is to remove the maggots using tweezers and shave off any damp or dirty fur. This should be carried out by your veterinarian as the rabbits skin is very thin and tears easily. Your vet will not only have skilled and experienced staff on hand but they will also be able to administer sedation or an anaesthetic to make the process easier, which in turn will ensure that your rabbit does not experience discomfort. Rabbits that have fly strike will also often need antibiotics to prevent infection. Anti-inflammatory and pain killing drugs are sometimes also administered.
Prevention
Fly strike is a distressing and potentially fatal condition which can be prevented by a few simple measures. Unfortunately we cannot eliminate flies from the rabbits environment and therefore we should keep a watch full eye over the rabbit, especially during the summer months.
Remove all soiled bedding daily
Ensure that your rabbit is not being overfed, as this can result in diarrhoea, leading to a dirty groin
Feed greens and fruit in moderation, as some rabbits can not tolerate an over-abundance of green food, again leading to diarrhoea and a dirty anus . For the same reason, take care when putting your rabbit out on the lawn in the summer, not to allow too much access to fresh grass
Check your rabbit twice daily to ensure that it is clean and dry. This includes house rabbits, who can also be at risk
Disinfect hutches every week.
Keep the rabbit dry and use a cleanser to remove faeces
Keep the hair around the anus very short by trimming with scissors or clippers.
Ridding the environment of flies, by means of chemical insecticides may damage the environment, animals, and people along with the flies. Fly traps catch many flies but not all. Repellents may work temporarily, but one must remember to use them repeatedly. Screens on doors and windows reduce the number of flies that get into the house, but some slip through.
Nylon netting can be used to cover outdoor hutches and runs, to prevent flies entering your rabbits environment. It can also be used to create inner fly doors in sheds. But do take care not to trap any flies inside when hanging it.
A number of plants can be used to repel insects and flies. Some may be planted in pots to sit on top of outdoor hutches or near runs, whilst others may be dried and hung in the home, or the rabbit shed. Just make sure that all these plants are out of reach of your rabbit."
I also have read that maggots only eat the dead tissue, but flies coming
to the wound, chewing on the flesh, laying more eggs, sure doesn't let
the body heal on holes afflicted this way.
So something has to be done, clean up the mess and remove larvae/maggots
and contamination of the wound. The big flies here are 2" long or better,
while the green head ones are about 1/2" long. Both attack animals in
different ways, as already mentioned. Usually the really big flies are
less in number, but they make one HECK of a bite hole to put the egg
into under the skin. Only one egg, which hatches into a LARGE larvae,
about size of your fingernail. Nasty, ugly things to get out of the hole
in the animal.
So a person used to dealing with rice size maggots, might not know they
had gotten the culprit, when only finding one huge larvae in the
lumpy hole, not a flystrike problem.
Just sharing what we run into, so OP can start dealing with clean-up
on her goat. Big flies might be MAKING the larvae holes, not goat rubbing
on things to hurt itself for fly attack and maggots.
to the wound, chewing on the flesh, laying more eggs, sure doesn't let
the body heal on holes afflicted this way.
So something has to be done, clean up the mess and remove larvae/maggots
and contamination of the wound. The big flies here are 2" long or better,
while the green head ones are about 1/2" long. Both attack animals in
different ways, as already mentioned. Usually the really big flies are
less in number, but they make one HECK of a bite hole to put the egg
into under the skin. Only one egg, which hatches into a LARGE larvae,
about size of your fingernail. Nasty, ugly things to get out of the hole
in the animal.
So a person used to dealing with rice size maggots, might not know they
had gotten the culprit, when only finding one huge larvae in the
lumpy hole, not a flystrike problem.
Just sharing what we run into, so OP can start dealing with clean-up
on her goat. Big flies might be MAKING the larvae holes, not goat rubbing
on things to hurt itself for fly attack and maggots.
Chevoner
Exploring the pasture
I agree the best course of action would be to clean the wound and keep it clean to facilitate healing.
Maggot therapy is probably not called for in most situations.
Maggot therapy is probably not called for in most situations.
- Thread starter
- #7
this battle with this wound has been ongoing for a month. I thought she was well on the road to recovery when the big scab came off & this cavity was revealed underneath. initially it stank & there was dead flesh in the wound. now that I know the cavity is there, it is cleaned twice a day. it is flushed thoroughly with vinegar water, the cavity is wiped w/idodine swabs, & the external is sprayed w/blu kote.
the maggots showed up yesterday. none found today. one moment I think the wound is better, the next, I think it's going the other way. she continues to feel good w/no fever. her appetite is fine & she has gained much of the weight she initially lost. she has good mobility.
I don't think she has any more dead flesh to speak of.
there is virtually no way possible to keep the wound covered because of it's location. keeping it clean & treated is the best i'm able to do.
the maggots showed up yesterday. none found today. one moment I think the wound is better, the next, I think it's going the other way. she continues to feel good w/no fever. her appetite is fine & she has gained much of the weight she initially lost. she has good mobility.
I don't think she has any more dead flesh to speak of.
there is virtually no way possible to keep the wound covered because of it's location. keeping it clean & treated is the best i'm able to do.
SuburbanFarmChic
Overrun with beasties
We had a injection site abscess on one of our bucks that was cleared up finally by completely restraining him, scrubbing the absolute tar out of the wound to completely debride it and then applying spectromast which is a mastistis treatment topically. Cleared up with in a week, applying treatment every 2 days or so.
Chevoner
Exploring the pasture
I have heard good things about something topical called Nu-Stock, for dogs, horses, and cattle...
It may work for goats? Available here: http://www.jefferspet.com/nu-stock/p/4F-A1/
It may work for goats? Available here: http://www.jefferspet.com/nu-stock/p/4F-A1/
babsbag
Herd Master
Are you using a fly spray or repellent on her, like Catron IV or SWAT?
I hope she heals up for you.
I hope she heals up for you.
