Never, ever, EVER pick a rabbit up by its ears. At very best, it's uncomfortable for the rabbit, at worst, you can damage the cartilage and ligaments that support the ears, permanently breaking them.
If you must scruff a rabbit (and, let's face it, most of us with multiple rabbits find this necessary at least some of the time), you don't want to drag the rabbit out of the cage, you need to lift it off the floor, and as quick as you can get at least a hand under the rabbit's hindquarters to support the weight. Most rabbits do not like to be picked up, and some will suddenly explode into wild kicking and flailing when their feet leave the floor. Rabbits, especially meat breeds, have delicate bones for the size of their bodies, and they can break their own backs doing this, so you need to stop these wild struggles as quickly as possible. It takes a lot of nerve to wrap yourself around a wildly kicking rabbit, but that's what you may have to do - the more supported the rabbit feels, the less likely it is to struggle (at least, most of the time). A rabbit on its back is less likely to struggle (and don't give me that "a rabbit on its back is convinced it's about to die and goes immediately into shock" business - that's physiologically impossible). My favorite technique is to remove the rabbit from the cage (by scruffing if necessary) and quickly cradle the rabbit, feet side up, in one arm, with the rabbit's head tucked in at my elbow and the rump supported by my hand. if the rabbit struggles, I can use my free hand on its chest to keep it there; if the rabbit gets really wild, I may slide it over so that its backbone is against my breastbone and I have one hand on its chest and the other on the belly just in front of the hind legs (a position I call 'the bunny straightjacket'). The point is to protect you and the rabbit from damage as much as possible, and in this position, it can't kick effectively and it can't reach you with its claws. Most rabbit drama happens near the door of the cage; just turning around so it can't see "home" may be all it takes to stop the struggling. Tucking the head far enough under your elbow that the rabbit can't see may help (but not so far that it can't breathe, of course). With practice, you can learn to approach the cage while cradling the rabbit on its back, then flip the rabbit onto its feet on the cage floor and get your hands clear before the rabbit even thinks about kicking.