Safe-Guard ?'s

Kenneth Flippen

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Safe-Guard Mineral Mix

(Intervet)
Medicated free choice cattle mineral contains 2.24 g Fenbendazole per pound. For the removal and control of lungworms, stomach worms, intestinal worms, bankrupt worms and nodular worms in cattle.

Dose .1 lb per 100lbs over a 3 to 6 day period. 13 day slaughter withdrawal, no milk withdrawal. Treat 25,000 lbs of cattle.





it says no milk withdrawal why nit with this product when the Safe-Guard dewormer block says not to use in dairy cattle of breeding age

also is this OK for goats? I know a few people around here use the block for goats although I have not

http://www.jefferslivestock.com/product.asp?pn=I6-SR&camid=LIV


Kenneth Flippen

ETA: I couldn't get the picture of the product to show
 

ksalvagno

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You are better off to get the liquid Safeguard and dose your goats at 1cc per 10 lbs. The goats need to eat the right amount in one serving for it to be at all effective. If not, then all you are doing is making the parasites more resistant to the Safeguard. Safeguard doesn't work in all areas of the country so you would also want to find out if Safeguard works in your area.
 

Roll farms

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Safeguard is one of the least-effective dewormers out there because of overuse and underdosing...Other than tape worms, it's not horribly effective. I've used it at up to 4x the label dosage and seen little effect.

In my opinion, using the medicated mineral would be a waste of money...won't help w/ the parasites you most need help with (barberpole), and you won't be able to guarantee that the goats who *need* dewormed most will eat enough treated mineral to get the dosage needed.

Also, I don't like to use blocks w/ goats...those who are really mineral deficient will try to 'eat' it and break their teeth....and again, you don't know if they're getting 'enough'.

Free choice loose mineral is best when offering mineral.

Deworming only as needed, with the RIGHT dewormer, is best for most effective worm control, along w/ pasture rotation and breeding for parasite resistance.

Read around at some university extension websites about parasite control.
 

Kenneth Flippen

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Thanks for the replies

The no milk withdrawal is what caught my eye I saw it in Jeffers magazine the paste also says no milk withdrawal the liquid just says its safe for lactating dairy cattle which it what I use

I've had good luck with Safe-Guard so far but I give it for 3 days when I use it I alternate it with Ivermectin and am looking for something else to start with this spring if you have any suggestions? I have been using these 2 for 3 years and wouldlike to switch my last worming was Oct. 9th they had no signs but were due I plan to lay off the wormers till spring unless they need it I don't want to keep them full of chemicals


Kenneth Flippen
 

Roll farms

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My best suggestions are don't deworm any goat that doesn't 'need' it.

Out of 25 goats, I might have used dewormer on 5 all year. The rest kept pink or red mucous membranes w/out having to deworm at all.

No dewormer use = money in the bank.

Don't rotate dewormers....use what works until it stops working.
Why switch off? If it's killing worms, use what's working for you now...only switch when it stops working. I know the 'old' advice was to rotate...they've since proven that's only helping build resistance.

Cull does that need it more than 2x in a season...or 4x a year....you are only breeding resistance if you keep them / their offspring.

Rest pastures for 2-3 mos before introducing goats back to them.

If I'm worried about milk withdrawal, I save that milk for the dogs / cats / etc.
 
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