**updated** Need help with barber pole please!

Goatgirl12

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My husband bought a herd of Nubian goats approx a week ago. They were not well taken care of, super skinny and starving. I noticed that their lids were white, so we dewormed them 5 days in a row with Safeguard. A couple days ago I noticed a few of them had a large jaw. Now yesterday one of the bigger does is down and can't get up, super white gums. I finally put two and two together and realized we have a major barber pole problem. And when I say problem I mean infestation. This morning he went to get Ivomec plus and gave it to them at a dose of 1cc/30# sq. Is there anything else I can do for these does? There are 14 does/14 kids and a billy. Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!!!

**update** Doe is still down... but she is still eating and drinking, chewing cud. She is still pretty white. But all the rest are really slicking down, the swelling in their jaws is almost gone!!! Still slightly anemic though. We are still pumping them with red cell and Vitamin B complex. Have them kept inside the barn.

I'm wondering if anyone has had a doe down this long and has succesfully gotten them back up?? My husband could get her up a little bit at first but now she won't get up at all....
All the kids from this bunch have red gums/eye lids. Should I deworm them or let them go??

Pasture managament - They were only in the pasture for 4 days, and only half of each of those days. It was a brand new field we just fenced off, part alfalfa hay field my Dad had been mowing for hay. Our plan right now is to cut it with our lawn mower really short when it gets warm, let it dry out really well and go from there. I don't know if that's overkill and we should just leave it alone since they weren't out there that long or what we should do, any suggestions would be great.
Thanks for the help :)
 

Straw Hat Kikos

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Well they NEEDED the Ivermectin so glad you gave them it not just the SafeGuard.

1cc for 30 pounds giving SubQ is more than enough. People do 1cc per 30 orally and most times about 1cc per 110 pounds IM or SubQ so they should have way plenty in them. I would do a fecal on them if you can but may cost to much with that many so in a month do it all again. Worm them again and they should be good but if you see no improvement you may need to talk to your vet or find out what's happening.
 

alsea1

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If an animal is heavily infested with worms sometimes the cure can be hard on them.
Sounds like these goats are extremly anemic. I know what that feels like on a personal level so I can sympathize with how the goats are feeling.
Go with probiotics and supportive care after the worming.
Also I am thinking if possible move em to another pasture after the purge.
 

20kidsonhill

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Injectable pig iron for the really bad ones along with injectable B-complex. Give pig iron only one time a week, B-complex you can give more.Give both as an injection.

I would use a stronger wormer than safegaurd or ivermectin such as cydectin or Prohibit or synanthic given orally.

The one that is down may need IV fluids, they can be given under the skin and not in the vein.

Or drench with Resorb or saf a caf electrolytes if she is not eating or drinking. But IV under skin works the best while you get the anemia under control.
 

jodief100

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Ivermectin given SQ is not very effective on Barberpole worms. I would give it to them orally.

If you can get Cydectin I would use that instead of the Ivermectin. The cattle pour on given orally at about 1 cc per 20 lbs.

Vit B-12 and electrolytes for supportive therapy along with Red Cell for horses to help with the anemia.

Good luck, this is a very tough one. Get their food up off the ground and keep them off of pastures below 5" tall if at all possible. Rotate every three weeks.
 

elevan

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20kidsonhill said:
Injectable pig iron for the really bad ones along with injectable B-complex. Give pig iron only one time a week, B-complex you can give more.Give both as an injection.

I would use a stronger wormer than safegaurd or ivermectin such as cydectin or Prohibit or synanthic given orally.

The one that is down may need IV fluids, they can be given under the skin and not in the vein.

Or drench with Resorb or saf a caf electrolytes if she is not eating or drinking. But IV under skin works the best while you get the anemia under control.
x2 you need much stronger de-wormers and you need complementary care...red cell, electrolytes, probiotics and iv fluids (as needed).




*Quarantine Drench to help avoid introducing drug resistant worms
--isolate animals to barn, dry lot or a sacrifice pasture not used for other sheep
--use more than one dewormer class, one of which should be cydectin and the other
probably levamisole (Prohibit)
--manure sample worm egg counts should be negative prior to turnout with other animals
do sample 2-3 weeks after deworming
--release from quarantine onto YOUR INFECTED pastures
you want the animal to pick up your non selected worms
 

Goatgirl12

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Thank you so much for all the replies. Here is my current game plan: Give ivomec plus, B complex and Red Cell today. Come back and give Red Cell as needed, and deworm again with Cydectin. I am almost embarrassed to admit this, but I am a Registered Vet Tech, and totally feel like a fish out of water with all these dewormers. They definitely don't teach you anything about resistance in school, just what worms they are "supposed" to get rid of. I have been a stay at home mom for almost 3 years now and worked at a small animal practice before I'm doing what I do now, so I am totally out of practice.

We have done nothing with the kids. Would you deworm them or let them go and do as needed?

The pasture they are out on they have only been on for 4 days, and only half a day at that. Nothing has EVER grazed on it, it's part of a hay field we fenced off for them. But it is super short grass on it right now, just starting to grow because it has finally warmed up here. Any options for getting rid of it in that pasture? Are there any good articles out there on pasture management for this sort of problem?

Again, thanks for all the help and replies.
 

kstaven

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One thing not mentioned here is that resistance to specific wormers does not hold true in all areas. There is a regionally specific element to it.
 

Straw Hat Kikos

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Do not worm them in the pasture they will drop those worms all over your clean pasture. Do it in a dry lot if you can.
 
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