Cage size

[sandog001]

I am going to be raising full size satin's and I was planning on 3'x3' cages... about how high should I make them for these rabbits....
and should the breeding rabbits have bigger cages than the meat rabbits

 

[brentr]

18" is a pretty standard cage height and works well. Other things to consider is how the cages will be placed; are they going to be suspended, or down low? Will you be putting the door on the top or on a side wall? If your door is on top, you don't want the cages so deep that you can't reach down in and get the rabbit.

 

[CCourson05]

18-24 inches is standard, I believe. So... Whatever is convenient for you. Breeding and meat?? Breeding to sell as show, or what?

 

[sandog001]

I will be breeding to sell and show when when I finally get home ......I am starting slow till I knowI can handle them as my operation gets bigger.....
I am still looking for a Breeder with registerd satin's that is close to GA. I would like some Reds, Copper and Broken satin's to start...

 

[AZ Rabbits]

If you did 3'x3'x18", that would be plenty big. The "expert" recommended size is at least 36"x30"x18", although many commercial breeders do 30"x30"x18" with good results. Buck cages can be 6" narrower and the same depth (or shallower with the same width, depending on how you design them). So your planned cages would be bigger than the minimum recommended.

 

[sandog001]

Thanks for the advise everyone... I have read all your comments and have setted on the 36x30x18....

 

[secuono]

You guys are forgetting that a 30in cage depth is pretty deep and you will need long arms or a huge door and a stool to reach back and get the rabbit.
My cages are 2x4x17in.

 

[doubled]

All mine are 36 wide x 30 deep x 18 high and I'm a pretty big guy and 30 deep is all I can reach, I have to really stretch to reach kits in the back when they hold on to the Doe to put them back in the nest. I have NZ and with their size and the nest box it fills pretty quick, then when you have the Doe and 6-8 kits running around exspecially when they weaned they take up a lot of room.

 

[sandog001]

I just built a card board box rabbit cage for a mock up.... .. afghanistan is a place to do strange things when you are bored...lol
anyway..... 30 inches deep is a good strech but manageable .. I could always go 36Lx28Dx18H for the lower teir cages .. I am thinking of doing 2 tiers

another question I would ask is .. should I build 3 cages all in one or do everything seperate? anyone tell me there expience on this ...
and if the 3 cages are made together should I put solid dividers between the rabbits to prevent ear nibbling and how hard are the dividers to pull out and clean and how often
....?

 

[Bossroo]

Sandog001... THANK YOU for serving all of us in our quest for all of our freedoms ! When I was in rabbit production (for the original bloodtyping antibody serum work for horses, cattle, sheep and tuna fish population ID) , I made banks of cages... 24 (36l x30w x20h ) cages long and back to back (48 per bank) all attached together and hung from the barn ceiling with 9 ga. wire. I also strung 3 ( per side, total of 6 wires along the 24 cage leangh) 9 ga. wires for the 1/2" x 2" x 30" floor wires to make the floor stiffer and more solid to make it easier on the rabbits' feet. I took the welded wire roll sizes in consideration when designing the cages and labor saving time for cutting wire and ease of construction . I used the 1 x 2 x 24" wide rolls for the sides and bent the tops by 4" to make the 20" h , I used the 30" rolls for the cage tops. This made the cages much more solid ( especially when considering the total leangth) . Also, by making the cages 20" tall, this allows the doe to sit on top of the nest boxes to get away from the kits when they start to come out of the nest box and at the same time gives more floor space room for the kits.This configuration makes for major labor savings doing daily chores. No solid deviders needed, I never had any nibbling problems. Good luck, and stay safe.