patandchickens
Overrun with beasties
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They do, yes. Note that this really has nothing whatsoever to do with whether you stall your horses overnight or they live outside at liberty.goodhors said:We stall our horses daily. Husband calls it "the laying on of the hands". Horses have to follow directions and not allowed free decisions at that time.
I handle the horses daily too, when I am out there doing chores and so forth, and have never experienced any loss of manners or respect.
Horses can't be left to grraze 24 hrs a day on unusually lush and well-manage pastures, or if they are founder-prone breeds/individuals. However most horses IME do really really WELL on 24 hours on typical pasture. Note that the horses are not grazing continually (they take long siestas or just stand there watching the world go by), and they do not normally get fat.Our animals do NOT need 24 hours of daily grazing, which can create it's own problems.
For the relatively few "goldfish" who do pig out, all you have to do is keep them on poorer pasture or in a drylot overnight, where they still get all the benefits of free movement.
Indeed this works fine even for laminitis patients... you just have to keep them drylotted and hay them, rather than have them subsist on grazing. So even previously-foundered horses can MOST CERTAINLY be kept outside, loose, 24 hrs a day, and in my observation generally benefit from it.
Free 24-hr-a-day movement is what horses' bodies evolved doing, it is what they are best designed for, it keeps them fitter, and it keeps them healthier. With hardly any exceptions. Horses are not designed well for forced inactivity for 8 or 12 hours a day, as when stalled overnight (and no, turning around in a 12x12 stall is not exersize )
Just sayin'. It's a very, very legitimate option to consider. Even many "athlete" horses are kept this way. Yer basic backyard horse certainly can be, and IMO usually should.
Very true, and a good arrangement if you have many or difficult animals. And HAVING a stall for each horse is pretty important.Stalling or penning for easier to controlled feeding of any grains, hay portions, makes sure they get what you serve them, not distracted away. You could lead them to stall, feed, let them out again in an hour. Minimal cleanup.
Honestly though, for whatever it's worth, I have found that it is less time and work and instils better manners in the horses, to feed them whatever concentrate or supplements they're getting while they are outside. Mine know where their feedtubs go (I am not really "feeding" them per se, but they get some ration balancer about 8 months a year because I can't always get real top-grade hay), they wait their turn for their own tub to be put down and then they stand there and eat peacefully. While they're doing this, I can check their feet, give them whatever once-over or checkup they need, and then stay nearby doing poo pickup duty til they are done. (If I am not nearby, eventually the pony figures out that he can mooch other peoples' food, but if I am there to tell him not to, order is maintained )
Mind you I'm totally not arguing that feeding at liberty is necessarily superior to putting them in for a half hour or whatever; I don't see much of a difference overall; I'm just pointing out that feeding at liberty is another good option for the o.p. to consider.
Oh yes! Very very very important!Frost free hydrant needs the water line run from house deep in the ground and you have to put drainage so hydrant can drain after shutoff. This can mean a BIG hole for pea gravel fill as drainage, and deep, so you it is below the frost line to stay liquid for draining.
Also, it is a good idea to put your barn water either on an outside wall (in a not very cold climate) or under only-GRAVEL surfaces, not concrete. Because if you lay concrete slab over top of the waterline, and around the frostfree hydrand, that is just the great big Kick Me sign for having something occur that requires you to dig it up. Which is even less fun when there need to be jackhammers involved
For a 20x30 barn for just a couple horses or cows, this is really not so much of an issue IMO. You would lose a huge proportion of space having a 12' wide aisle going straight through; and if it doesn't go all the way thru, then you are only saving yourself maybe 10-15' of carrying stuff. Totally different for a bigger barn, of course.You want aisle to be big enough to drive thru with a truck.
Be careful of the Cherry Hill books, though -- they are aimed at keeping horses in one certain particular way, and may not be a good match for everyone's needs.
Oh, a very very very very important thing to plan into your new barn: excellent drainage around the barn, and excellent footing around the barn. Seriously. It needs to be on SIGNIFICANTLY high ground so there is no chance of flooding (especially from rain and melt when there are still snowbanks around), and the downspouts need to lead significantly away.
And it is very very very very worthwhile to spend the money to replace all the topsoil for at least 15' around the barn with roadbase or something like that, to be more mud resistant. In nearly all cases, the ground right around the barn will get badly thrashed by feet/tires/hooves and particularly if you are moving animals from barn to pasture and back every single day, the area will get badly churned up and horribly muddy. Amending the footing before you even PUT animals on it will do a lot to reduce your work to fix mud later on. Same goes for any run-in sheds (shelters) you may eventually build in paddocks, btw
GOod luck, have fun,
Pat