confused on fencing

Ridgetop

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Graybeard is correct when he says to do the job right the first time. Stringing fence and setting fence posts is hard work. You will be much older, busier, and less willing to put in the work 10 years down the road. You will always have fencing issues but the better job you do now, and the better materials you use, the more you will save in the long run. 80 x 150 is not large enough to put in permanent pasture divisions. You can use temporary fencing to divide the pasture if necessary. Premier Sheep Supplies carries a good woven temporary electric fencing roll. They have an on line site, and you can get solar chargers for electric fences. The fence is bright yellow plastic with wire which is easily seen and lightweight to move around. Do a really good quality perimeter fence and then look into options to divide it up.

You don't say whether your property is on the flat or is hilly. If it is on a slope you will have other fencing issues. Rain will wash the dirt out from under leaving holes, or up against the fence lowering the height, depending on which side of the slope you are on. On the inside of a downhill fence the dirt and slough will build up and eventually your 5' fence will be about 3' high. On the inside of a downhill slope the ground erodes from the animal traffic, occasionally washing out the posts. We are now adding another 4' to the top of our 5' fence to deter our LGD's from jumping out and coyotes from jumping in. LOL We did solve the problem of uneven ground washing out from under the steep slopes of the fencing and leaving holes for the dogs to go under. We took 3' lengths of 4' chain link fencing, attaching one end to the existing fencing, and stretching the chain link inside the fence bottom on the ground. Grass and weeds grow up through the chain link making it practically solid and prevent the dogs from digging out.

I don't think you have to worry about zoning for your animals as to the number including the market animals. In our area, Los Angeles County, any terminal 4-H or FFA project (market animals) does not count against your allowable animal count. They are considered a temporary educational project and animal control will not cite you since they will only be on the property for about 90 days. I would go to animal control and make sure that they would be ok with it. Most rural areas are more lenient about 4-H and FFA project animals. Technically you cannot keep hogs in Los Angeles but animal control ignores that rule for 4-H and FFA hogs.

Important on the matter of the 4-H market animals - you want them to be in a small pen so your children can handle them and practice showmanship. Chasing them around a 1/4 acre enclosure may be amusing at first (take pix!), but will get old in a hurry. Also, more importantly, your 4-H leader will have the 4-H lambs on a specific show lamb feeding program and you will need to feed them separately from your other animals. Show/market lambs are fed a higher protein feed while your pet goats will be on a different, less rigidly controlled, feeding program with a lot more roughage to encourage development of their rumen. Market lambs can't be on too much roughage (hay) since they will develop a "hay belly" instead of the sleek, streamlined market lamb body. Depending on the supervision of your leader, your children will learn to judge how much finish (fat layer) to keep on their lambs, learn how to push them to gain weight, or hold them at a specific weight before pushing them to finish at fair time (feed more oats for this). I suggest that you keep each lamb in a 12 x 12 pen to facilitate proper feeding for each lamb. You can put wire around a 12 x 24 horse corral and when the lambs reach a certain weight divide the corral to provide 2 pens if necessary to feed individually.

You are going to have so much fun!!!:weee:clap:celebrate
 

Robyn8

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Graybeard is correct when he says to do the job right the first time. Stringing fence and setting fence posts is hard work. You will be much older, busier, and less willing to put in the work 10 years down the road. You will always have fencing issues but the better job you do now, and the better materials you use, the more you will save in the long run. 80 x 150 is not large enough to put in permanent pasture divisions. You can use temporary fencing to divide the pasture if necessary. Premier Sheep Supplies carries a good woven temporary electric fencing roll. They have an on line site, and you can get solar chargers for electric fences. The fence is bright yellow plastic with wire which is easily seen and lightweight to move around. Do a really good quality perimeter fence and then look into options to divide it up.

You don't say whether your property is on the flat or is hilly. If it is on a slope you will have other fencing issues. Rain will wash the dirt out from under leaving holes, or up against the fence lowering the height, depending on which side of the slope you are on. On the inside of a downhill fence the dirt and slough will build up and eventually your 5' fence will be about 3' high. On the inside of a downhill slope the ground erodes from the animal traffic, occasionally washing out the posts. We are now adding another 4' to the top of our 5' fence to deter our LGD's from jumping out and coyotes from jumping in. LOL We did solve the problem of uneven ground washing out from under the steep slopes of the fencing and leaving holes for the dogs to go under. We took 3' lengths of 4' chain link fencing, attaching one end to the existing fencing, and stretching the chain link inside the fence bottom on the ground. Grass and weeds grow up through the chain link making it practically solid and prevent the dogs from digging out.

I don't think you have to worry about zoning for your animals as to the number including the market animals. In our area, Los Angeles County, any terminal 4-H or FFA project (market animals) does not count against your allowable animal count. They are considered a temporary educational project and animal control will not cite you since they will only be on the property for about 90 days. I would go to animal control and make sure that they would be ok with it. Most rural areas are more lenient about 4-H and FFA project animals. Technically you cannot keep hogs in Los Angeles but animal control ignores that rule for 4-H and FFA hogs.

Important on the matter of the 4-H market animals - you want them to be in a small pen so your children can handle them and practice showmanship. Chasing them around a 1/4 acre enclosure may be amusing at first (take pix!), but will get old in a hurry. Also, more importantly, your 4-H leader will have the 4-H lambs on a specific show lamb feeding program and you will need to feed them separately from your other animals. Show/market lambs are fed a higher protein feed while your pet goats will be on a different, less rigidly controlled, feeding program with a lot more roughage to encourage development of their rumen. Market lambs can't be on too much roughage (hay) since they will develop a "hay belly" instead of the sleek, streamlined market lamb body. Depending on the supervision of your leader, your children will learn to judge how much finish (fat layer) to keep on their lambs, learn how to push them to gain weight, or hold them at a specific weight before pushing them to finish at fair time (feed more oats for this). I suggest that you keep each lamb in a 12 x 12 pen to facilitate proper feeding for each lamb. You can put wire around a 12 x 24 horse corral and when the lambs reach a certain weight divide the corral to provide 2 pens if necessary to feed individually.

You are going to have so much fun!!!:weee:clap:celebrate


Thanks for all the advice! We have so much to learn! Hmm maybe we are better off keeping the lambs in our big chicken run. It's about 18 x 24 and a dry lot at this point. The chickens refuse to use it right now due to the snow in it so we can probably keep them in their smaller run till the end of summer. The small run is enough space for the chickens if we don't add anymore this spring. Or we could just free range the chickens. We were thinking of putting the goat kids in the chicken run due to the size difference between them and the lambs, but maybe it's better the other way around. Lots to consider!

Oh and the area where the lamb / goat pasture will be is fairly level. Some high and low spots but definitely not a hill. It was previously mowed grass that the original owners let grow out.
 

ducks4you

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Ok I did some more price checking on woven wire fencing and with what I think we'll need here are my best options:
Red Brand at TSC goat fence, 4 ft high, 4 x 4 in squares, class 1 galvanized, total cost for fencing only = $466
Red Brand at Rural King no climb horse fencing 4 ft high, 2 x 4 in squares class 1 galvanized, total cost for fencing only = $660
Kencove brand online 4 ft high, 2 x 4 in squares class 3 galvanized, total cost for fencing only = $675
My question is how important would 4 ft vs 5 ft be? Will 5 ft even keep coyotes out? Does that matter so much if we lock them in at night?
Sounds like 4 x 4 might be good enough, but should I spend $400 more for a 5 ft high 2 x 4 ? and would I be better off spending $200 more to get the class 3 galvanized 2 x4 versus the red brand 4 x 4?
DSCN1206.JPG


Yes! Always go higher than you think you need. My horse fencing (sorry, grabbed an old photo, but this guy is 16'3hh, which means he is 5'7" at the withers,) wouldn't keep your little fuzzy friends inside, but different animals need different fencing. WhatEVER you do AVOID ANY barbed wire. I don't care WHO might suggest it, but any animal can rip their hides on it. I mention it bc many people believe it is a quick fix for a break.
If you THINK you need to put your animals inside at night, DO IT!
Btw, WHERE are the photos?!?!? We wish to ooo and ahhh over them.
 

Baymule

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View attachment 45829

Yes! Always go higher than you think you need. My horse fencing (sorry, grabbed an old photo, but this guy is 16'3hh, which means he is 5'7" at the withers,) wouldn't keep your little fuzzy friends inside, but different animals need different fencing. WhatEVER you do AVOID ANY barbed wire. I don't care WHO might suggest it, but any animal can rip their hides on it. I mention it bc many people believe it is a quick fix for a break.
If you THINK you need to put your animals inside at night, DO IT!
Btw, WHERE are the photos?!?!? We wish to ooo and ahhh over them.
That's a tall horse. I sold a 16'2 mare because my knees are worn out crap and I couldn't get on her. She was nice too.....sigh
 

greybeard

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In 53 years, with both cattle and horses, I've never had a single head of livestock injured by barbed wire.
It is estimated, that there is easily over 100,000 miles of barbed wire fences just in the state of Texas, holding just shy of 400,000 horses, and right at 40 million head of breeding aged cattle.
Injuries are extremely rare, but the choice is always open.
 

Jennifer Hinkle

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We use 16ft 4ft high cattle panels. We have also used the field fence from Tractor Supply 4ft high 4x4 the one that is 330 ft. We have hair sheep and on the field fence if they step on it they can pull it down. So we prefer the cattle panels. The 4ft vs. the 5ft in my opinion doesn't make much difference coyotes can jump over either one.
 
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