Fence post bracing

[Bruce]

OK, potentially stupid question: Does it matter if you put the cattle panels with the vertical or horizontal wires on the animal side?

Also, I think it is "normal" to hang them with the 2 shorter vertically spaced wires on the bottom. Is there a specific reason to do that, or NOT do that?

Thanks

 

[Latestarter]

I think you want the horizontal wires on the animal side. less access to the welds. I've always seen the smaller spacings go down low. Perhaps to keep young animals, more susceptible to putting their heads through a fence, from doing so as easily.

 

[farmerjan]

I think you want the horizontal wires on the animal side. less access top the welds. I've always seen he smaller spacings go down low. Perhaps to keep young animals, more susceptible to putting their heads through a fence, from doing so as easily.

Yeah, we always put the horizontal wires on the animal sides, don't know if it is "right" but that's the way we do it. Probably as latestarter said, to keep the animals from access to the vertical welds. Yes the smaller spaces go on the bottom and yes, to keep younger, smaller animals from being able to go through. I am assuming that you got the "combination" panels that have the closer spaced horizontals on the bottom? They also make a cattle panel that the horizontals are about the same top to bottom. I like to use these for the garden - tomato tie ups - and any climbing beans or gourds or anything. Easier to strip off the old dead plants after frost. Usually are the same price although I think there is 1 less horizontal so a tad less strong.

 

[Bruce]

Yes, there are 2 rows of "less tall" openings on the "bottom". Since I need the CP part of the fence to keep the chickens in as well as all other animals, I'm going to weave some solid wire through the larger openings. I have a lot of old (not the really rusted stuff ) hotwire that looks new. I pulled it off the perimeter and cross fencing the prior owner had put up. 2"-2.5" pointed non treated posts, maybe 18" down for the deep ones, 12" for many. Posts rotting and falling down, hotwire broken and hiding in the grass to screw up a mower. Some of the hotwire smaller diameter than other. Some rusted to the point that it breaks if you bend it. Just a big dangerous mess and not worth repairing but I can use the solid wire that is in good shape to keep chickens on the right side of the fence.

 

[Mike CHS]

Not trying to hijack but has anyone any experience with high tensile woven wire? I saw some the other day and it appears to have all the strength of the regular woven wire but a lot of pros. The price was better than the sheep and goat fence also.

 

[farmerjan]

Not trying to hijack but has anyone any experience with high tensile woven wire? I saw some the other day and it appears to have all the strength of the regular woven wire but a lot of pros. The price was better than the sheep and goat fence also.

Most all the woven wire sold here is high tensile strength now unless you specifically order the older style. It is usually a little thinner wire, it does have more "stretchability' and will withstand more abuse. It is also more brittle and when it breaks it really snaps. It is used alot so that if smaller limbs fall on it, it will snap back rather than kink and bend and it keeps its shape a little better when an animal pushes, rubs, shoves against it. A little trickier to stretch as you just have to be careful due to the more "brittle" breaking point but it is used all the time here now. We aren't big fans of it, but that's just us.

 

[Mike CHS]

Thanks Jan - I may do a small training paddock to check it out.

 

[Bruce]

I'm actually doing both. I bought a roll of S&G from TSC. Yeah really expensive. Not sure how I missed the woven field fence. I bought that for my second roll for my project. About $100 less and Redbrand S&G has the same wire sizes as their woven field fence (at least what TSC is selling, I don't know if they make a "lower" grade version.

 

[Bruce]

Next question (you knew there would be more, right?)

This is the north side of the project. Hopefully these pictures will give an idea of the fairly steep drop before the decline becomes fairly gradual. The drop is about 4' in the first 18' and steeper at the top than the bottom of that pitch.



This is the gate at the top of that pitch, "biggify" the second picture to see it from the downhill side.


I need to brace that post (the pin on the latch holds the gate up when it is closed so not bracing it earlier was a "timing" decision) and run field fence down the hill to the NW corner post (lower right corner of first picture). If I stuff an 8' post 5' in the ground 8' from the existing gate post, the horizontal brace will barely be off the ground and useless. Is it reasonable/kosher/functional to cut the brace so it follows the pitch down the hill and mount it the same height off the ground as I would if the ground were level? I can't imagine a floating brace would be useful with that much pitch.

And since the pitch continues down, would I even be able to tension the fence out to the NW corner post? Seems like I almost need a braced post (both directions!) at the bottom of the steep pitch as well and two pulls of fence.

You might also notice that there is a gate in the current fence just beyond the steep pitch (it is standing only because it is tied to the posts). It would be nice to put a gate in the new fence in the same approximate location so now I'm looking at a Double H brace with one of the "horizontals" being 10' and the other 8' and ANOTHER braced post past the gate. At this point I really don't think I have time to stick in any more braced posts than that so I'll likely have some "do over" next year.

I need some ideas please!

Here is a picture of the "quality" of the current fence


And here are pictures of the rocks around the tree on the south side. I don't know about you all but *I* am not capable of moving them.

Looking west


Looking Southeast


Looking East

 

[greybeard]

Next question (you knew there would be more, right?)




I need to brace that post (the pin on the latch holds the gate up when it is closed so not bracing it earlier was a "timing" decision) and run field fence down the hill to the NW corner post (lower right corner of first picture). If I stuff an 8' post 5' in the ground 8' from the existing gate post, the horizontal brace will barely be off the ground and useless. Is it reasonable/kosher/functional to cut the brace so it follows the pitch down the hill and mount it the same height off the ground as I would if the ground were level? I can't imagine a floating brace would be useful with that much pitch.

And since the pitch continues down, would I even be able to tension the fence out to the NW corner post? Seems like I almost need a braced post (both directions!) at the bottom of the steep pitch as well and two pulls of fence.

Sometimes, you just gotta do whatever works and conventional 'guidance' be danged.
There's no real reason to put an 8' post in the ground 5' unless it is going to get a LOT of animal pressure, is soggy ground, is going to be hundreds of feet ow wire tension on it, or there will be risk of flood water running against the fence. I shoot for 4' depth most of the time--sometimes only get the hole 3 1/2 feet deep. Also, that 8' length on the horizontal brace post--I rarely use anything other than a standard 6 1/2' long wooden post.

I'd probably this this, and play with the dimensions to suit your real needs. Just remember, any post more than a few inches above the top wire is just holding up air.

I would 'X' your brace wires--one direction to support the gate--opposite direction to help bear fence tension.
I never use floating braces at the hinge end of a gate. They will offset the fence strain, but do nothing as far as supporting the gate. They can only work in one direction.
6 1/2 horizontal brace at a gate's hinge side: