grass types for baby doll sheep?

[aggieterpkatie]

Since some tall fescue varieties are not quite as palatable as other grasses (like OG), one way to solve the picky eating is to plant a straight stand of fescue. That's why pasture mixes are so bad to plant, because the animals pick and choose what they want, and most mixes contain grasses that just plain won't persist in pastures. People waste their money on seed for the wrong types of grasses. Timothy is almost always included in pasture mixes and it just doesn't tolerate grazing at all, yet horse people in particular want to see it in their mix. My pasture is a mix of cool season grasses, mainly tall fescue, orchardgrass, and clover. I rotate them, and they DO eat the fescue, but if they had a choice they'd probably rather skip it and eat something else. That's why you don't give them a choice. Fescue is such a good grazing grass, and if the sheep aren't offered another choice they will eat it. There are also improved varieties of tall fescue (Max Q for example) that are more palatable and more tender. Slightly harder to get established than the endophyte infected fescue, but it's worth it. I think a tall fescue/white clover pasture would be great. Or perhaps some OG too, but OG is more sensitive than fescue and it has to be managed better.

 

[kfacres]

Since some tall fescue varieties are not quite as palatable as other grasses (like OG), one way to solve the picky eating is to plant a straight stand of fescue. That's why pasture mixes are so bad to plant, because the animals pick and choose what they want, and most mixes contain grasses that just plain won't persist in pastures.

Like rotational grazing??? Fescue is the best for stockpiling for winter grazing... But I've found my lambing schedule doesn't work so well for winter grazing--- so back to not having a preference for fescue.


People waste their money on seed for the wrong types of grasses. Timothy is almost always included in pasture mixes and it just doesn't tolerate grazing at all, yet horse people in particular want to see it in their mix.

I couldn't agree more, and couldn't count the number of times I've said this... same thing applys to redtop IMO>


My pasture is a mix of cool season grasses, mainly tall fescue, orchardgrass, and clover. I rotate them, and they DO eat the fescue, but if they had a choice they'd probably rather skip it and eat something else. That's why you don't give them a choice. Fescue is such a good grazing grass, and if the sheep aren't offered another choice they will eat it.

x2 here.


There are also improved varieties of tall fescue (Max Q for example) that are more palatable and more tender. Slightly harder to get established than the endophyte infected fescue, but it's worth it.

save your money on the endophye free fescue-- it's not worth anything-- the infected stuff is better in every aspect. To buy something expensive- and have it stick around for 3 years-- then convert back to infected-- isn't worth a single cent, in my book. Now there are some endophyte FRIENDLY varieties of fescue coming onto the market place-- and they are very good. The infection for some reason makes the plant weaker- but if it's infected with a good endophyte-- then it's just as persistant. I'm not sure about the Max Q- but wanted to make mention of Endophyte free vs. endophyte vs good endophyte. .

 

[Symphony]

Yeah, Orchard grass works good. All the suggestions are good.

 

[aggieterpkatie]

save your money on the endophye free fescue-- it's not worth anything-- the infected stuff is better in every aspect. To buy something expensive- and have it stick around for 3 years-- then convert back to infected-- isn't worth a single cent, in my book. Now there are some endophyte FRIENDLY varieties of fescue coming onto the market place-- and they are very good. The infection for some reason makes the plant weaker- but if it's infected with a good endophyte-- then it's just as persistant. I'm not sure about the Max Q- but wanted to make mention of Endophyte free vs. endophyte vs good endophyte. .

Yeah, Max Q is the novel (friendly) endophyte fescue. I've heard the same thing about the endophyte free being not as great, but the Max Q is really nice. A beef farm where I used to work has some, and they really like it. Makes great hay, and the cattle like it. It's more expensive, and a little harder to get established, but it's a good compromise to the fescue problem.

 

[kfacres]

save your money on the endophye free fescue-- it's not worth anything-- the infected stuff is better in every aspect. To buy something expensive- and have it stick around for 3 years-- then convert back to infected-- isn't worth a single cent, in my book. Now there are some endophyte FRIENDLY varieties of fescue coming onto the market place-- and they are very good. The infection for some reason makes the plant weaker- but if it's infected with a good endophyte-- then it's just as persistant. I'm not sure about the Max Q- but wanted to make mention of Endophyte free vs. endophyte vs good endophyte. .

Yeah, Max Q is the novel (friendly) endophyte fescue. I've heard the same thing about the endophyte free being not as great, but the Max Q is really nice. A beef farm where I used to work has some, and they really like it. Makes great hay, and the cattle like it. It's more expensive, and a little harder to get established, but it's a good compromise to the fescue problem.

I thought so, but it's hard to keep up with all the new variety's they come out with. I looked through some papers I have on the subject, but didnt' see anything right off the bat-- so I hedged and called it in the middle.

 

[Symphony]

save your money on the endophye free fescue-- it's not worth anything-- the infected stuff is better in every aspect. To buy something expensive- and have it stick around for 3 years-- then convert back to infected-- isn't worth a single cent, in my book. Now there are some endophyte FRIENDLY varieties of fescue coming onto the market place-- and they are very good. The infection for some reason makes the plant weaker- but if it's infected with a good endophyte-- then it's just as persistant. I'm not sure about the Max Q- but wanted to make mention of Endophyte free vs. endophyte vs good endophyte. .

Yeah, Max Q is the novel (friendly) endophyte fescue. I've heard the same thing about the endophyte free being not as great, but the Max Q is really nice. A beef farm where I used to work has some, and they really like it. Makes great hay, and the cattle like it. It's more expensive, and a little harder to get established, but it's a good compromise to the fescue problem.

Yeah, the Max Q is what I ment initially but I frequently type faster than I think.

It is harder to establish but my horses and cows like it mixed with my orchard, timothy, brome and kentucky blue.

 

[kfacres]

save your money on the endophye free fescue-- it's not worth anything-- the infected stuff is better in every aspect. To buy something expensive- and have it stick around for 3 years-- then convert back to infected-- isn't worth a single cent, in my book. Now there are some endophyte FRIENDLY varieties of fescue coming onto the market place-- and they are very good. The infection for some reason makes the plant weaker- but if it's infected with a good endophyte-- then it's just as persistant. I'm not sure about the Max Q- but wanted to make mention of Endophyte free vs. endophyte vs good endophyte. .

Yeah, Max Q is the novel (friendly) endophyte fescue. I've heard the same thing about the endophyte free being not as great, but the Max Q is really nice. A beef farm where I used to work has some, and they really like it. Makes great hay, and the cattle like it. It's more expensive, and a little harder to get established, but it's a good compromise to the fescue problem.

Yeah, the Max Q is what I ment initially but I frequently type faster than I think.

It is harder to establish but my horses and cows like it mixed with my orchard, timothy, brome and kentucky blue.

not a ky blue fan here-- just doesn't give the pure tonage that i want or need- kinda like the white clovers-- a great piece but not the whole toll box.... i think it may also fizzle out faster in the growing season-- but it won't ever go away and will take a beating... kinda like fescue.

brome will eventually take everything over-- we see that hardcore in CRP fields where they just let it go. 5 years- solid stand of fescue and brome... brom is worthless for stockpiling-- although not as bad as crab or reed canary.

 

[Southdown]

I bought some pasture blend from Tractor Supply that I am going to seed in to some bare soil from the construction of our new barn. We'll see if they like it in the years ahead. We have lots of variety and weeds growing around here. They don't eat the thistles, of course, and they seem to like the younger grass compared to older, seeding out grass. As for the tree issue: we have an apple orchard and the sheep will lay under the apple trees for shade when they are hot or when they want to rest and chew their cud. I don't care if it makes a bare spot under the tree because the grass is competition for the apple tree anyway. Also, their large amount of manure/urine in a concentrated area under the trees is beneficial because I don't have to fertilize the apple trees (they do it for me!). But what I have noticed is that they seem to like eating the grass that is growing in full sun compared to eating grass this is growing in shade. But you can keep the sheep in a certain paddock until they mow it all down. In other words, don't move them to a new paddock until they have eaten most everything. I have babydolls and they aren't too picky. I mean they won't eat everything, but they do pretty good. Three should be fine, but if you grow your flock, make sure to have different pastures to rotate them through. Plus, you will need to have a separate pasture for your ram if you don't want to keep him with his ewes year round.

 

[shawnfisher]

most pasture blends are not variety specific-- so therefore you really won't have any clue as to what you are seeding. nor are they good enough germination to be suitable.

Care to post a picture of the exact label on that bag you bought? I'd like to have it to use as an example.