Help electrical shock!!

[Latestarter]

from above:

From Kencove fencing, one of the largest and best known electric fence companies in the US:
Use at least one 12½ gauge double insulated cable as your leadout. Two or more joined in parallel are better, as this lowers the resistance of the wire.
https://kencove.com/fence/100_Fence+Construction_resource.php

From Premier:
Energizer Installation & Operation Instructions
1. Keep energizer ground system 30 to 40 ft away from any other electrical ground source. This includes house ground systems and wells.
2. Use only galvanized lead-out wire and galv. ground rods. Do not use copper lead-out wire or copper ground rods.
3. Use only insulated wire designed for electric fencing. Do not use wire rated at less than 10,000 volts.


https://www.premier1supplies.com/img/instruction/35.pdf

 

[Latestarter]

You should try to NOT mix wire types as each type wire has different resistance characteristics. So copper to aluminum to galvanized etc. is not a good plan. You should use the same kind of wire throughout to minimize resistance and power losses as well as potential heating when swapping from low resistance to high resistance wire.

 

[Healthy Skeptic]

My hubby set all this up. So I understand this even less. I’ll tell him again.

Thanks for your time.

 

[Latestarter]

Hope you get it all figured out and done right/properly/safely.

 

[greybeard]

The reason you cannot use household or automotive type insulated wire for leadout is because it's insulation is normally only rated for 600 Volts.
Your American Farm Works 15 mile charger is probably capable of putting out around 5000Volts-7000Volts...maybe more.

 

[greybeard]

You use insulated wire from the charger, to the starting point of the hot wire run. It is (can be) also used from the charger to the first ground rod, though some folks don't bother with insulated wire for the ground, since it is supposed to be grounded anyway.

The reason the charger manufacturers and fence installation gurus recommend using that same kind of insulated wire from fence charger to ground rod, is that the circuit is never complete until each pulse reaches the negative terminal on the circuit board inside the charger. The pulse, doesn't 'want' to go to earth ground, (it's already been there) it 'wants' to go to board ground. The circuit is just using the earth as a conductor, from the point the animal touched the wire, back to the ground rod. Tho it seems to happen instantly, it really does not....the animal does not receive a shock until the pulse makes it back to the neg terminal on the charger's circuit board.
Maybe this drawing make sense?

(Granted, in a fence charger that is producing AC current, (many ..if not most are nowadays) all the blue arrows will be changing directions at whatever interval the board's transformer and circuitry components dictate, but the same is true in either 'direction. The earth is still just a convenient "middle of the circuit" conductor and the shock doesn't take place until the pulses' circuit back to the board terminal is complete.)

 

[Latestarter]

GB, gotta say I sure do like your graphics. Specially the sheep saying "OWW #@!&%#" Been there, done that too!

 

[Wehner Homestead]

X2!

 

[Cindy in SD]

One more thing... I’d put the wire in flexible conduit to go through the aluminum siding. It will be sharp and could damage the insulation on the wires. At the least you should use one of those round conduit connectors used to attach conduit to utility boxes, etc. That would cover the sharp hole in the siding. They’re easily available at stores like Home Depot, etc. Ask the electrical guys. They’re dead easy to use... just don’t tighten the connector too tightly on the wire or you’ll cut through the insulation.

 

[Anthony Sr.]

A quick fix, get some insulated wire, exposed only at hook-ups, do not allow wires to be smashed or exposed by door. Oh and all metal touching fencing and wires are going to have electricity in them... (Keep wire's/steel off concrete)