misfitmorgan
Herd Master
Actually with the right filters, you can actually filter out the radionuclides. Frost Heave sounds bad. Here the foundations will shift due to clay. It is called Black land farm. Termites, I guess stay active more year around here. We don't get snow much here or freezes. Do you have to fix the foundations with snow heave?
You can fix rust and sulfur with "wait for it" the right kind of filter.Here they call it a iron filter. It even filters out the smell.
We are doing a pond, and it will have to be lined with sodium bentonite, because the water will seep right out of it. The well on our property is at 375' depth. My husband said Holy Moses, they fill themselves.
On another piece of property the water table is at 570'.
I'm sure you could, but honestly most people here don't seem to care if they have rust water or sulfur. My sister is an exception she has a water softener and a treatment "center" put in to get rid of the rust in her house and it doesnt work...for whatever she got installed.
Frost heave is horrible, the foundations are fixable but so not cheap. Most houses here are built with "michigan" basements which really is a crawl space but they are high crawl spaces about 5' tall between the joists which is so the foundation is under the frost heave line. We pretty much never build a house on a slab and any building that goes on a slab needs to be at least 6" thick and have rebar and preferably a knee wall. Frost heave here can pick up entire buildings if you dont build right. It is just kind of something we are used to though and is particularly bad on properties with high clay percentages.
The place we are on now is literally pure clay 6inches down and this is an example of what frost heave can do.
Thanks again, everyone!
Haymaking does sound like potentially more trouble than it's worth! I've been researching rotational grazing and pasture management, and one practice that has caught my eye is stockpiling forage for use when the grass isn't growing, instead of feeding cut hay. Anyone around here familiar with doing that?
I do feel a bit better now about managing acres of land, though! In looking at @misfitmorgan 's description of maintaining and improving pastures, I realized that's essentially what I've been doing for years with my yard, only on a larger scale! I'm already quite familiar with cutting the grass high and improving the soils over time. In fact, not that it's going to go too far on a multiacre place, but I've been planning all along to pack up my finished compost and compost pile and cart them to our new farm! LOL
Let's assume I have 6 head of cattle (maybe 5 stockers + 1 family milk cow) and a couple large donkeys. Any ballpark estimates how much hay I would need to feed them for the winter? We do have mild winters, of course, and if I seeded in some cool season grasses, I could probably have grass growing nearly year-round.
LOL About the stock pond vs tank! The TX ranching jargon threw me for a loop for a little while, too. First, our friends who ranch talked about a stock tank on their property, and I was surprised to see that it was what I would call a pond. Then I heard about stock tanks being sold at stores for like $50, and you can imagine how confusing that was to me! LOL After awhile, I settled on calling things "stock tanks" (a big water bucket, basically) and "stock ponds." If it's just a surface water feature and not used for watering livestock, then I just call it a pond. Ha!
Speaking of ponds, I've kinda added them to my list of really want to haves on our new place. Not only do I like the idea of having extra water for the animals, but I have a vision of stocking the pond with fish and adding some ducks and geese, too. Can you imagine how much fun the kids would have with that! The majority of the houses we've seen have community water, and the well/pond is only for animals and irrigation. Still, I would probably want to have the wells tested, right? I mean, if there is arsenic in the water, I probably don't want the cattle drinking from it! And it the salinity is high, I don't want to irrigate with that. Whom should I contact about testing the wells, when the time comes? Is that something the local Ag Extension would do?
Where did you see that it might've been a pig farm? I've seen the county tax sites (and those are nice!), but I haven't seen much about any property that really indicated what it might've been used for in the past.
Since we're on the topic of ponds, what if the pond on a property is a manure lagoon? Can it be treated and restored to "stock pond" status? Would it be TNRCC who could help with restoring old ponds?
We have a great home inspector, and we've been testing for everything, too. We actually offered on a place back in Feb, and we dropped the offer once our inspector found a slew of issues with it. That house was a '78. I feel kinda burned by that one, and it makes me hesitant to seriously consider the 1970 house on that one property I posted. The land does look really nice, though...
Something we never got around to doing with the property that fell through is any sort of ecological testing of the soil, though for a farm, I feel it would be important to know if there is anything "off" lurking in the soil! Should we consider some sort of soil tests? And whom would we hire for that?
Heh. The longer we look at properties, the more questions I think of! Maybe it's a good thing that the search is taking us a little while!
They use that stockpiling technique up here on some smaller cow operations and it does work well from the reports. The cows dig thru the snow on each strip of new stockpiled field and eat the grasses underneath. From what i have seen they take a pasture and divide it into strips(mentally) and then every day(or as often as needed) they move a portable fence with step in posts to the next strip section. Most have a set number of posts along the outside fence that they use, such as everyday they may move their step in posts down 4 fenceposts. I hope that makes sense.
For the cows...cows(1200lbs) require 24 pounds of average hay per day but that is dry matter not actual hay weight to figure out the actual hay weight you need to know the percentage of dry matter in the hay so if it is say 80% dry matter it is 24/.80=30...so they would need 30lbs a day per head of that 80% dry matter hay. To find the dry matter you can either buy tested hay or have it tested. These numbers change based on overall hay quality as well but generally 24lbs with a 10lb overage per head per day will set you up alright. I don't know much of anything about the mechanics of testing hay as we dont test hay because we always have way more then we need because we make hay and DH has been making hay since he could walk so we dont need a moisture meter either. So i'm thinking 170lbs/day for 5 cows sounds like if should cover you but @farmerjan would know more i'm sure. She runs a cattle operation in a hotter region then i do.
Aside from rye grass, oats do fantastic in cool/cold weather and you can broadcast plant them by hand if needed. Tall fescue and white clover are good for cool weather and do well on sandy soil. Tall fescue is also a THE forage for stockpiling. I did say tall fescue and white clover meaning they need to be planted together.
Also if you want the best use of fertilizer on your place after getting soil tests done spread 60% of the fertilizer in the fall and the other 30% in the spring. My sister and her DH changed to doing this method after being suggested to by the small farmers conference and eastern star. On their wheat fields they were getting 40 bushels/acre and the season they switched they got 100 bushels/acre...typical production for our area is 30 bushels/acre.