Jumping the Moon Dairy - the next chapter

[Bruce]

Do you think that joining them end to end before installing them would work?

Sure, if you don't mind it leaking all along those seams You need to use the special rubber grommeted roof screws into something solid. I GUESS you could rivet them together beforehand to make longer panels but you would need to coat those with something waterproof AFTER the panels are installed.

I wanted to piece it together first as reaching across 3' panels to do the seaming while on a ladder is just not my idea of fun

I have a chicken ladder you can borrow for free. Of course it is a 3,000 mile one way trip and I would need to charge a delivery fee.

They do make hooks for "regular" ladders. If you could get your hands on one, I'd put the 8' sections low and the 4' section with 1' overlap high. That way you would be comfortably in the middle of the ladder while you work.

 

[babsbag]

I know about the leaks...been there and this isn't my first rodeo with metal roofing. I think I have finally learned the tricks... make sure that the overlap is at the high end of the slope, use the right screws (metal to metal wit washers), and use a strip of sticky weather stripping. I prefer single pieces of metal but that isn't my fate. I did learn that the clear plastic panels will not seam unless there is a support under them as they get warm and pliable and leak no matter what I try.

I just find it easier to flip a full length of metal onto the rafters instead of trying to get the pieces to line up all the nice ridges and valleys end to end. And if you get them off even a little then your length wise seams start to run catawampus too. I think I can do a better job getting them married together on flat ground.

 

[Bruce]

I think I can do a better job getting them married together on flat ground.

I can see that! Just not sure how you keep that joint stiff enough to not break the seal on the weatherstripping as you get it up into position. Maybe if they were laid out flat on the downhill side and carefully slid up onto the roof? But that joint would have to be supported somehow. This doesn't help the "not doing the seams on the roof" but if pop riveting them together for positioning does work, perhaps you could drill the rivet out after the panel is up and replace it with a roof screw? That way you would not have to deal with sealing all the rivet points. Of course the rivet would have to be a smaller diameter than the screw.

I know about roof leaks as well. Both the big and little barns need a HUGE amount of repair/replace. No money for that. Had lots of leaks in the west side of the big barn roof. I've put in over 600 screws with rubber grommets to stop them along with sliding a flat piece of sheet metal under the edge where it looks like the roof had been picked up by the wind and bent, cracked. Got most of the leaks. But as with any leak in a metal over old shingles over roof boards, where the leak shows up underneath may be quite distant from where the water is coming in.

 

[Simpleterrier]

Here's an Idea what if u built whole roof sections together the just screwed the wood together and one metal seam. You could do it all on the ground in three or so metal roof sections wide

 

[babsbag]

Here's an Idea what if u built whole roof sections together the just screwed the wood together and one metal seam. You could do it all on the ground in three or so metal roof sections wide

I like that idea, but can I lift them to get them in place?

Just not sure how you keep that joint stiff enough to not break the seal on the weatherstripping as you get it up into position.

That is why I was thinking perhaps a piece of 1/4" ply to use as a "splint". I wouldn't run it all the way to the edge so it won't interfere with the side overlaps.

Why can't I just win the lottery and have someone build all of this for me?

 

[Bruce]

Because then you wouldn't have all the FUN! You can win the lottery and buy 12' panels

One thing I found interesting, and counterintuitive, with metal roof is WHERE you put the screws. I always figured they would be put in the "hump" overlap. That way most of the water running down the panel wouldn't go near the screws and the screws would hold the 2 pieces together. Then I watched a video put out by a roofing company. He said one of the most common errors was to put the screws there rather than on the flat where it is in contact with the decking.
DOH!

I like that idea, but can I lift them to get them in place?

I suspect it would take a few people unless you had a backhoe to lift them up to the roof. At best, I guess if you could lean them up against the edge of the roof a couple of people could shove them up. You would need someone at the top to "catch" them and screw them in. I'm not real sure I totally understand how the premade roof section is attached to the roof itself unless the idea is to build the roof deck on the rafters, screw the metal down and then somehow lift all that up and attach the rafters to the top plates?? In that case I can't even imagine how much that would weigh.

 

[babsbag]

Being that I live in no snow CA I don't have to do a roof deck. We get the pleasure of installing metal roofing over rafters with no underlayment. For a 12' length I will have 3 rafters that run perpendicular to the 12' length and it is pretty easy to toss the metal roofing up there...holding up metal roofing attached to the wood beams (2x6) would be a tad more difficult and more than I can handle on my own. It would also require more 2x6's to support the pre-made roofing sections as I install them.

Tomorrow I will try to sort the metal that I have and see what more I would need to buy. I will have to look for some paint for them as I know I have read and green ones, and maybe tan too. I would like for them to be all the same color is possible. The stuff that I found on CL is not the same as the stuff I already own so that can't go together which means I need to either use mine or the other but not both.

 

[Bruce]

If there is no deck, how do you properly screw the panels down?

 

[misfitmorgan]

I made the roof on those models 4/12 pitch...i forgot you have no snow lol. Let me try making it a 12ft slant and see how it looks.

 

[Mike CHS]

Our lean-to shelters just have the metal roofing screwed down to the rafters. I just laid the rafter spacing out to accommodate that spacing. If you are off a bit it doesn't matter since you can just make the overlap fit.