My Ali is now getting help! updated pictures

[OneFineAcre]

Honesty, I last wormed in July, buy no fecals done, never had that done , I know I need to but I thought I should be prepared with what to ask the vet for. Do they have different kind of tests, or will they know what I mean? She is the only goat out of 7 that look like this. Her two sons from this year I kept as wethers and look amazing.

You can't judge by how the others
Look
I have
29 plump goats and 1 skinny

 

[Southern by choice]

You can't judge by how the others
Look
I have
29 plump goats and 1 skinny

Well said! AND so TRUE!

We have a "touchy" Lamancha that is ridiculous about weight.
We have a bunch of really fat goats right now that need to diet in order to be bred. Then a few with great condition ... not fat, not thin- just right. Then we have the one... Miss "touchy" stomach.
One day she is 145 lbs then you turn around and she is 125... up and down... we run fecals all the time on her. I love her but she is tough to keep "just right".

 

[MaggieSims]

She's looking a bit "undernourished"... thin/bony... Do you know how old she is? Do you know the quality of the hay you're giving her (tested?)? Have you been supplementing her with grain at all? Now or when you were milking her? She may be getting "enough" (quantity) to eat, but not enough nutrients from it, coupled with mineral deficiency (hair loss) and parasites (thin/hair loss)...

How do you have hay tested? She just finished a 600 lb bale of grass hay with her herd mates. I gave grain and milk pellets while I milked her but none since. Should I add a goat feed just for her?

 

[babsbag]

Just take some fresh goat berries to your vet for the fecal. If they are familiar with livestock at all they should be able to do this with no problems and know exactly what to look for. There is always the chance that your wormer isn't working.

I would goat feed or alfalfa pellets. Or alfalfa hay if you can get it.

 

[Southern by choice]

One more thing.

What did you deworm her with?

Most dewormers only kill 4th stage, so if a high load you need to repeat - the time frame is often slightly different for different dewormers.

For high loads I prefer Fenbendazole given 3 consecutive days... this gives a slower release and more steady stream in the sytem. It is gentle very low risk of any overdose.

There are 3 classes of dewormers and they work differently.

 

[Latestarter]

Typically hay farmers will test their hay to be able to determine the nutrition breakdown. Aside from helping them market their hay based on quality, it allows the buyer to know what they're buying. I think if you reach out to your county extension service, they may be able to help you a lot. They can do soil/feed samples on your property to see if it's sufficient for your livestock, they may be able to help test the hay for you to see what you've got. IMHO, I think the parasite issue should looked into/be taken care of first. Then once that's identified as not/no longer an issue, if she doesn't start getting back into better shape, then you may want to supplement with a feed, grain, alfalfa pellets... something, to help her re-build. Important to note, as Southern said, you MUST follow the full course of treatment for dewormers. You can't just do one application and then figure it's all good. Then you also should do a follow up fecal a week or two later to make sure it worked.

 

[NH homesteader]

Agreed. Regardless of hay or feed, parasites will just rob her of the nutrition anyway. Best to get some samples to a vet. I brought some in earlier this summer and it cost $25 for them to tell me what kind of worms and the count. They won't prescribe unless you have a relationship with them and they see her. Which is ideal, but I know it can be expensive!

 

[MaggieSims]

You guys are so fast, I'm only on mobile right now so replies are taking a bit. Replying to all my questions soon, it's bedtime for my kids and I be back!

 

[MaggieSims]

@Southern by choice has written articles on parasites, if you look them up on here that will get you started!

I will read these tonight or in the morning!!

Goats chew cud... is this just cud? They will keep cud in their cheek, rechew, and swallow.


Make sure it isn't just her food - cud-


Good! How many grams did you give her?

As far as parasites and fecals-

Many do deworm their goats 30 days prior to kidding with a dewormer that is safe for pregnant goats. The reason for this is the same hormones that are now kicking in growing those kids and growing those udders are also causing parasites to multiply rapidly. Deworming 30 days before gives the doe a really good start to kidding and lactating.

Once a doe starts lactation her body is producing milk and needing to also sustain weight etc.
Many give a dairy goat feed so that sustaining the goat and milking can be acheived without taxing the doe.
Does, after kidding can have a parasite "bloom" generally 3-6 weeks after. This bloom if not checked and goat isn't dewormed will cause lower production, weight loss, and a myriad of other things.

Each goat's resistance will be different.

Fecal analysis is your best method for knowing the "load".
For example we have one goat never dewormed in 2 years. She had quads then quints never dewormed. Her kids are just shy of 8 months and she now has a load that she needs to be dewormed with. Probably due to lots of rain we have had has caused an increase. We run fecals to monitor and only deworm when necessary.

Here is more information on FAMACHA (eyelid quick check- NOT to be used alone)
and Fecal Analysis usinng McMasters Method.
these are 3 different articles. Good reading and if you still have questions about anything parasite just tag me.

This explains FAMACHA and FECALS-
http://www.backyardherds.com/resources/understanding-famacha-fecal-analysis.56/

This is detailed for the McMasters Method
PART 1
http://www.backyardherds.com/resources/the-mcmasters-method-fecal-analysis.55/
Part 2
http://www.backyardherds.com/resources/mcmasters-method-fecal-analysis-part2.57/

Not cud, if I don't help her remove it, she'll have chipmunk cheeks all day. I'm thinking the teeth could be causing issues too, I'm having to look around though to find someone to help with that. I live in the area (few hours drive) to WSU so last resort they can help.

I gave her one 4 gram capsule. Also gave another doe I got at the same time as Ali, who had classic copper signs, is already showing coat improvement.

I bought her bred, also was given some (crude) instructions, I wormed her a week prior ( I'll reference my notes to sure) to kidding and a week after with safeguard, but only one dose, not consecutive like I'm reading about now

Typically hay farmers will test their hay to be able to determine the nutrition breakdown. Aside from helping them market their hay based on quality, it allows the buyer to know what they're buying. I think if you reach out to your county extension service, they may be able to help you a lot. They can do soil/feed samples on your property to see if it's sufficient for your livestock, they may be able to help test the hay for you to see what you've got. IMHO, I think the parasite issue should looked into/be taken care of first. Then once that's identified as not/no longer an issue, if she doesn't start getting back into better shape, then you may want to supplement with a feed, grain, alfalfa pellets... something, to help her re-build. Important to note, as Southern said, you MUST follow the full course of treatment for dewormers. You can't just do one application and then figure it's all good. Then you also should do a follow up fecal a week or two later to make sure it worked.

I doubt what I'm buying had been tested, but I can certainly add more to her diet. I have her and the other I with her together right now.

 

[babsbag]

It she is having a hard time with the hay maybe some alfalfa pellets would be easier.