With shipping prices a local maker is usually best. Just make sure they are using adequate gage of wire, and reenforced bottoms. I believe the galvanized after welding is best. I don't like the "farm" store brand...they are too light weight and don't hold up. And it does depend on your size of rabbits. Larger rabbits need heavier wire and larger cages.
I hope to make my next cages I invest in.
I have abt half manufactured and half homemade. I would echo what promiseacres said. Heavy guage wire and galvanized after welded.
I do like to customize my sizes and functionality though. You can buy the rolls of hardware mesh, clips, and clip tool/crimper. I add a shelf for doe's cages and generally use a 12" square door hole/ 14" square door to accommodate a nest box. I have never tried to recess a floor for a nest box, but it would be a good idea. The commercial ones are so expensive, but the supplies to make one rack up pretty quick too.
This one is 24" tall and 24" deep by 30" wide. It hangs at the rear with wire and has some angle braces for legs at the front, probably made from stainless steel. It has a shelf along the side the doe is on above the nest box. If you build nest boxes like mine, they have a partial top the doe likes to sit on to get up away from the kits anyway.
This one is 24" tall, 24" deep by 36" wide. It was built to be a grow out pen, but I needed a pen for this doe and her litter.
I use 1"×2" mesh for the sides and top, and for the floor 1/2"×1". Most commercial cages have the slots running horizontal, but mine are vertical because the roll is 24"x however many feet and instead of cutting it down to a 20" height which is functional, I just roll off enough for the size of top or side panel and cut it.
You can buy the j clips and tool to crimp them. The door and doorway protecting tubing is good to keep you or bunnies from getting gouged reaching/jumping in and out.
A 20" cubed cage is good for a single doe or buck.
A 30"x30"×20" tall is good for does and litter boxes. 30"×24" will work.
A 36"×24" or bigger is good for growout pens.
Thanks @Pastor Dave! We wanted to go the colony route but it severely limits the amount of rabbits I can have. With cages, I can stack. And now with my dog being diagnosed with IBD, she'll be on a raw diet with plenty of rabbit on the menu
I have j clips and pliers for repairing wire dog crates. Where do you find the tubing for the doors?
It doesn't look like you use baby saver on the walls. Have you ever lost any kits through the 1" x 2"?
Yes and no. I cut strips of the 1/2"×1" at abt 2" high for the bottom of the only cage I ever had problems with. So far, I haven't had problems with the other does. I should go ahead and do the rest.
I also intended to go in and put shelves in my other does' cages, but just did the one. The others usually just sit on their nest box tops. At 18 days the boxes come out though, so the does are at their mercy until they hit 5 weeks. By then, they are eating well enough they don't constantly bother mama.
I googled and purchased a box of the tubing that came in 2' or 3' lengths. I can't remember exactly what it was called, but it came from a supplier of cages and accessories. It did almost 8 cages worth because I trimmed the doorway and the door so there wouldn't be rough or sharp edges.