Sorry you're dealing with this. The little ones go down hill so fast. Many times they're too far gone by the time you even realize there's an issue. Hope you're able to help him pull through.
Nubian Buckling Sick
- Thread starter Thatdaywewokeupasfarmers
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goats&moregoats
True BYH Addict
My thoughts are with you as you deal with this struggle. Hoping for the best!
Goatgirl47
True BYH Addict
How is he doing?
I am SO sorry about this, I know how you feel.
A couple weeks ago I lost my sweet little 3 month old Nubian buckling to Barber Pole worms.
If your little fellow still is not eating anything, I would give him some "mush" as my vet calls it. First, get some of his pelleted feed, and, if it has little bits of corn or anything else in it that wont turn to mush, pick it out. Then I use a large feeding syringe - you just put the pellets in the syringe until it is about 1/4 of the way full, and then add water until the syringe is about 3/4 full. Then shake the syringe for about five minutes until the contents are all mushy and can fit through the syringe. You should be able to force-feed him that way. My little guy loved it.
I am SO sorry about this, I know how you feel.
A couple weeks ago I lost my sweet little 3 month old Nubian buckling to Barber Pole worms. If your little fellow still is not eating anything, I would give him some "mush" as my vet calls it. First, get some of his pelleted feed, and, if it has little bits of corn or anything else in it that wont turn to mush, pick it out. Then I use a large feeding syringe - you just put the pellets in the syringe until it is about 1/4 of the way full, and then add water until the syringe is about 3/4 full. Then shake the syringe for about five minutes until the contents are all mushy and can fit through the syringe. You should be able to force-feed him that way. My little guy loved it.
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Thatdaywewokeupasfarmers
Overrun with beasties
Cy didn't end up making it. The vet said he was extremely anemic which he attributed to both thiamine deficiency and worm-overload. He thought that if we continued to give him vitamins and minerals he'd slowly get his strength back, but I think he was just too far gone. Maybe if the vet had gotten there first thing in the morning, but there was a lot of confusion and miscommunication and he wasn't able to come until very late afternoon.
Cy was only able to pass two little pellets for a stool sample yesterday, but the results were that the worms were too numerous to count. Does anybody have any ideas on how to get rid of the worms in the pasture before the goats ingest them? We've tried Dumor pelleted dewormer, safeguard oral dewormer, and valbazen so far in the goats, but they just keep coming back. My little June just started scouring again yesterday, so I know that we're about to cycle through this crap again. I can't lose any more of my babies. These goats mean the world to me.
Cy was only able to pass two little pellets for a stool sample yesterday, but the results were that the worms were too numerous to count. Does anybody have any ideas on how to get rid of the worms in the pasture before the goats ingest them? We've tried Dumor pelleted dewormer, safeguard oral dewormer, and valbazen so far in the goats, but they just keep coming back. My little June just started scouring again yesterday, so I know that we're about to cycle through this crap again. I can't lose any more of my babies. These goats mean the world to me.
babsbag
Herd Master
So sorry you lost your boy.
I would try injectable Ivermectin given orally, 1cc / 40 lbs. and get a fecal done before and after. Also give them Red Cell. Safeguard has to be used at higher doses than what is on the label and I don't recall the dose. 1cc/10 lbs??? @OneFineAcre, is that right? Pelleted wormers are hard as they might not eat as much as they need. Valbazen I have no real experience with, I just started using it for Tape worm last week.
I don't think that there is any way to get rid of worms in the pastures unless you can leave it empty, rotational grazing.
Once you get the worms under control you might try adding an herbal wormer to their diet. While I am convinced that it won't get rid of them, it may help with them coming back. Just a thought and it can't hurt.
I would try injectable Ivermectin given orally, 1cc / 40 lbs. and get a fecal done before and after. Also give them Red Cell. Safeguard has to be used at higher doses than what is on the label and I don't recall the dose. 1cc/10 lbs??? @OneFineAcre, is that right? Pelleted wormers are hard as they might not eat as much as they need. Valbazen I have no real experience with, I just started using it for Tape worm last week.
I don't think that there is any way to get rid of worms in the pastures unless you can leave it empty, rotational grazing.
Once you get the worms under control you might try adding an herbal wormer to their diet. While I am convinced that it won't get rid of them, it may help with them coming back. Just a thought and it can't hurt.
OneFineAcre
Herd Master
We give Safeguard 1cc/10lbs for 3 to 5 days. Usually 5.
OneFineAcre
Herd Master
I would get them off of the pasture and confine on a dry lot.
Time and cold weather will be the only thing to get the worms off of the pasture.
Time and cold weather will be the only thing to get the worms off of the pasture.
Goatgirl47
True BYH Addict
I am so sorry you lost him. 
Sorry he didn't make it.
Fullhousefarm
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Worms are hard. Here in Florida we, unfortunately, have tons of "experience" dealing with them since it's always wet and hot with no freeze to kill them. It's so heartbreaking to lose a baby and not be able to do anything. BTDT.
I second getting them in dry lot. Even in a smaller area that ideal, but with free choice hay. Keep hay cleaned up off the ground and in a rack, etc. Keep feed off the ground. It will help them conserve energy and not ingest the larva.
We use Valbazen and Cycdectin/Quest/Quest+ at the same time when worming is indicated by a poor famacha score or fecal- especially if it's a high load or the goat isn't in good condition or health otherwise. They go down fast and there isn't time to be trying multiple wormers weeks apart. It's also been recommended by solid research (https://www.wormx.info/). We then repeat in 10-12 days.
We do use pasture rotation. We keep them on one area 10-14 weeks and them move them to another for 10-14 weeks. It could be better, but we only have 2 areas to switch between. W also make sure grass stays taller where the goats are- over 4" when possible. Our bucks are on dry lot- though this time of year it has some green because everything is growing like crazy! In fact, we are getting ready to rotate them in the nest week or two. Just waiting for hurricane season to be over so that they stay in the bigger, dryer, shelter for any other possible rain events.
We've also found that biosponge is great treatment for scours. It's not going to fix a worm or coccidia problem by any means, but it can help a lot as supportive care for any gastrointestinal issue. Couple that with probiotics and/or a cud transfter. We only syringe electrolytes if they aren't drinking.
We use Dimethox for coccidia prevention in babies. I honestly hate doing it- but our babies are usually only 3-6 months in our worst wet humid "monsoon" season and there just isn't a better way we've found to keep them healthy. If we had a huge dry barn, or something, maybe??
I second getting them in dry lot. Even in a smaller area that ideal, but with free choice hay. Keep hay cleaned up off the ground and in a rack, etc. Keep feed off the ground. It will help them conserve energy and not ingest the larva.
We use Valbazen and Cycdectin/Quest/Quest+ at the same time when worming is indicated by a poor famacha score or fecal- especially if it's a high load or the goat isn't in good condition or health otherwise. They go down fast and there isn't time to be trying multiple wormers weeks apart. It's also been recommended by solid research (https://www.wormx.info/). We then repeat in 10-12 days.
We do use pasture rotation. We keep them on one area 10-14 weeks and them move them to another for 10-14 weeks. It could be better, but we only have 2 areas to switch between. W also make sure grass stays taller where the goats are- over 4" when possible. Our bucks are on dry lot- though this time of year it has some green because everything is growing like crazy! In fact, we are getting ready to rotate them in the nest week or two. Just waiting for hurricane season to be over so that they stay in the bigger, dryer, shelter for any other possible rain events.
We've also found that biosponge is great treatment for scours. It's not going to fix a worm or coccidia problem by any means, but it can help a lot as supportive care for any gastrointestinal issue. Couple that with probiotics and/or a cud transfter. We only syringe electrolytes if they aren't drinking.
We use Dimethox for coccidia prevention in babies. I honestly hate doing it- but our babies are usually only 3-6 months in our worst wet humid "monsoon" season and there just isn't a better way we've found to keep them healthy. If we had a huge dry barn, or something, maybe??
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