If it goes around a curve or something.
You have some spoiled goats. I have 20 full size goats on about an acre, if that. If I ever get the fence done they will get about 3 acres, but for the last 3 years that have been on the small field. I feed alfalfa and they get tree trimmings when I limb up the oaks. In the summer it is so hot here that they spend a lot of time just laying in the shade so they don't mind the small field. I don't have much problems with worms as our pastures are dry all summer, so they stay pretty darn healthy. They honestly don't even use 75% of their pastrure.elevan said:At least an acre....a half acre would be pushing it. The more room you can give the happier and healthier they will be.
You can always expand the space over time though.
Oh, ok. I'd be making it in a almost square. (Maybe more of a rectangle.)SheepGirl said:If it goes around a curve or something.
My goats get 99% of their feed themselves. They have a 3 acre plot for the 7 I currently own. I mow what they don't eat in the summer and the chickens have a hay day going for the bugs that come out at that time. I don't spoil them, simply make them find and earn their own food.babsbag said:You have some spoiled goats. I have 20 full size goats on about an acre, if that. If I ever get the fence done they will get about 3 acres, but for the last 3 years that have been on the small field. I feed alfalfa and they get tree trimmings when I limb up the oaks. In the summer it is so hot here that they spend a lot of time just laying in the shade so they don't mind the small field. I don't have much problems with worms as our pastures are dry all summer, so they stay pretty darn healthy. They honestly don't even use 75% of their pastrure.elevan said:At least an acre....a half acre would be pushing it. The more room you can give the happier and healthier they will be.
You can always expand the space over time though.
The dairy goats don't eat the grass AT ALL, the boers do a little. They patiently (not) wait for me to bring them alfalfa.
I wished I owned 20 acres.
In CA we get no summer rain so our pastures all die unless they are irrigated which cost money as well and since I live on the side of the hill irrigating my pasture is not practical. I think that even if I ran only a few goats on my 4 acres the browse would be gone in a month or so and I would be back to feeding them. I am looking for someone to install my fence so hopefully I can try out this experiment and see how long it takes them to run out of browse. They will be COVERED in poison oak however which will make milking fun.elevan said:My goats get 99% of their feed themselves. They have a 3 acre plot for the 7 I currently own. I mow what they don't eat in the summer and the chickens have a hay day going for the bugs that come out at that time. I don't spoil them, simply make them find and earn their own food.babsbag said:You have some spoiled goats. I have 20 full size goats on about an acre, if that. If I ever get the fence done they will get about 3 acres, but for the last 3 years that have been on the small field. I feed alfalfa and they get tree trimmings when I limb up the oaks. In the summer it is so hot here that they spend a lot of time just laying in the shade so they don't mind the small field. I don't have much problems with worms as our pastures are dry all summer, so they stay pretty darn healthy. They honestly don't even use 75% of their pastrure.elevan said:At least an acre....a half acre would be pushing it. The more room you can give the happier and healthier they will be.
You can always expand the space over time though.
The dairy goats don't eat the grass AT ALL, the boers do a little. They patiently (not) wait for me to bring them alfalfa.
I wished I owned 20 acres.
Your prices are WAY WAY cheaper than in California.ArtisticFarmer said:Anyone follow my logic for fencing here? This is what I've got figured out for the fence. It's a little bit off, but this is just estimating right now.
~295 around whole thing
4 strands of wire equals 1180 of wire
5 250' rolls of wire at 4.49 equals 22.45
Posts 20 feet apart equals 15 posts
1.89 a post equals 28.35
4 wire holders a post equals 60
25 pack at 4.95 needing 3 equals 14.85
Fence energizer-25.89
TOTAL equals 91.94
ETA- I looked up, "how to install an electric goat fence" And it said to put posts 18-24 feet apart. Opinions?
ETA #2- It also said to put the first strand 6" from the ground, and put it 8" up after that. That equals a 30" fence. Is that high enough?
ETA #3- I might make the pen a wee bit smaller then this, too. See, like I told you, rough outline.
Thank you, I totally forgot about a gate. So, do you think a plain old electrice fence wouldn't work? How many volts would I need?babsbag said:Your prices are WAY WAY cheaper than in California.ArtisticFarmer said:Anyone follow my logic for fencing here? This is what I've got figured out for the fence. It's a little bit off, but this is just estimating right now.
~295 around whole thing
4 strands of wire equals 1180 of wire
5 250' rolls of wire at 4.49 equals 22.45
Posts 20 feet apart equals 15 posts
1.89 a post equals 28.35
4 wire holders a post equals 60
25 pack at 4.95 needing 3 equals 14.85
Fence energizer-25.89
TOTAL equals 91.94
ETA- I looked up, "how to install an electric goat fence" And it said to put posts 18-24 feet apart. Opinions?
ETA #2- It also said to put the first strand 6" from the ground, and put it 8" up after that. That equals a 30" fence. Is that high enough?
ETA #3- I might make the pen a wee bit smaller then this, too. See, like I told you, rough outline.
Your fence energizer needs to HURT. Make sure it is rated for goats, especially if it is your only fence. And make sure the power supply is readily available and dependable. I use solar. Ours cost 125.00 on sale.
My goats would jump a 30" fence in a heartbeat, electric or no. I wouldn't go shorter than 48. If I was doing electric only I would go 6" or less all the way up, it is amazing what they can get through, especially when you start have kids.
20' apart might work, but you want to pull the wire tight so the post need to be 5-6' T posts, and I would put in wood in concrete in the corners so you can pull from them. Out here T-post sell for about $4-6 each.
Not all electirc wire is created equal. You need to find one that has the tensile strength to be the only fence. The stuff we use is designed to be used in addition to field fencing.
You need something like this.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/polystrand-white-safety-coated-fence-wire-500-ft?cm_vc=-10005
You also need ground rods, at least 2, we have 3.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fi-shocktrade;-5-8-in-six-foot-galvanized-ground-rod
And the ground rod clamps.
And don't forget a gate and a way to keep the gate from shorting out the fence.
Hope this helps, this is just my .02
My charger is rated in joules and it is rated at 1 joule for 25 miles. You can look on Zarebas' site for a chart that tells you what animal it will contain.There are alot of choices; mine was a little more as it runs off a 12v car battery which we keep charged with a solar panel.ArtisticFarmer said:Thank you, I totally forgot about a gate. So, do you think a plain old electrice fence wouldn't work? How many volts would I need?
I look into that. Also, I saw someone who had a 7 strand electric fence that was only about 30" high...and it kept the goats in. hmm...I don't know what to do!babsbag said:My charger is rated in joules and it is rated at 1 joule for 25 miles. You can look on Zarebas' site for a chart that tells you what animal it will contain.There are alot of choices; mine was a little more as it runs off a 12v car battery which we keep charged with a solar panel.ArtisticFarmer said:Thank you, I totally forgot about a gate. So, do you think a plain old electrice fence wouldn't work? How many volts would I need?
http://www.zarebasystems.com/resources/charts-and-guides