Baymule
Herd Master
We used a come along and stretcher bar. Sometimes we used the tractor.
Ridgetop - our place and how we muddle along
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Ridgetop
Herd Master
We needed a second pasture for the rams so they could graze. The old chain link fence in the original goat pasture was down and we had dragged it off to the recycle but the wooden posts were still good (old cross arms). Chain link is no good for sheep and goats but we were new and put up 6' fencing since it was the original perimeter fence. We replaced the 100' section with 4' no climb on the existing wooden posts. We got a $30.00 tool - a 3' pipe with 3 hooks on one side to hook onto the stretcher bar (we used a chain link stretcher bar) and on the other side of the pipe it had a handle fitted with a welded loop to attach to the come along. It worked very well and our sons had the wire up and tight in record time. We used U nails to attach it to the existing wooden posts since they were in good shape.
We are leaving Sunday for 3 weeks but when we get back, we will take the lambs to the butcher. Then we will put the rams into their marking harnesses and divide the ewes into 2 sets with each ram.
We are leaving Sunday for 3 weeks but when we get back, we will take the lambs to the butcher. Then we will put the rams into their marking harnesses and divide the ewes into 2 sets with each ram.
greybeard
Herd Master
If you can look down the top of the fence and see waviness, it isn't tight. When you stretch fencing, and it doesn't fully stand up all on it's own, it isn't tight. If it doesn't run in a straight line on it's own when tensioned, it isn't tight.
For net/fixed knot/hinged knot fencing, a strain gage is the best way to know. Otherwise, watch the little tensioning dimples (arrows) . When they begin to 'straighten out' a little..losing about 20% of their original detent, , it's tight.
Examples of tight and not tight:
Tight:
not tight:
Both of the above fences are pictures of fences BYH folks have posted here.
I've altered/colored in the outside areas for a reason.
For net/fixed knot/hinged knot fencing, a strain gage is the best way to know. Otherwise, watch the little tensioning dimples (arrows) . When they begin to 'straighten out' a little..losing about 20% of their original detent, , it's tight.
Examples of tight and not tight:
Tight:
not tight:
Both of the above fences are pictures of fences BYH folks have posted here.
I've altered/colored in the outside areas for a reason.
Bruce
Herd Master
I can't imagine how much damage I would do trying to stretch fence with the tractor. No feel for just how much power it is putting into the task.
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Ridgetop
Herd Master
Thanks Greybeard! Another tool for our fence jobs which looks like it would be worth it's price.
Bruce: I think you would use the tractor to attach the come-along, getting the wire somewhat tight then use the come-along to tighten the fence. I don't think you would necessarily pull the wire tight with the tractor. I might be wrong.
Bruce: I think you would use the tractor to attach the come-along, getting the wire somewhat tight then use the come-along to tighten the fence. I don't think you would necessarily pull the wire tight with the tractor. I might be wrong.
Bruce
Herd Master
Oh good!
Baymule
Herd Master
Some places didn't have anything to anchor the come along to. So we hooked it to the FEL bucket.
greybeard
Herd Master
It's usually the opposite Bruce. Fear of tearing up something, pulling corners out, or over tensioning usually results in the fence not being pulled tight enough.
greybeard
Herd Master
that's when you do a 'gut strain'..tensioning the wire from the middle.
You can hook the comealong to the FEL bucket with the brakes locked down, but anything over 150' stretch, you'll never get it as tight as it should be without the tractor skidding along instead of the net wire getting tight, and even a short stretch is still problematic.
Now, IF you have a HEAVY vehicle with a winch on it, you can certainly use the winch on it it to tension the wire because you have the ability to pull in small increments and the vehicle is heavy enough not to move.
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greybeard
Herd Master
The part of fencing I detest is installing all those teepost clips, especially the lower ones. If I had a lot of fencing to do (100+ acres) I would buy a pneumatic clip/tie installer. Not cheap..I believe they run somewhere north of $400 but I'd do it in a heartbeat.
The gripple tool and the walking chain tensioner is the best money I ever spent for fencing.
Wish I had heard about them years before now. Strainrite probably makes the best ones but several others sell clones of the same thing.
The gripple tool and the walking chain tensioner is the best money I ever spent for fencing.
Wish I had heard about them years before now. Strainrite probably makes the best ones but several others sell clones of the same thing.
