So Excited!!!

[crazyturkeydesigns]

The 31 days for kindling is not a hard and fast rule. Some will give birth a day or two early and some will take a few days longer depending on the individual doe's time of egg inplantation in her uterus and hormone levels. Take the buck to the doe to breed ONLY if you want a bloody buck and a rather large Vet. BILL... ... does are VERY terratorial and will protect their territory against any intruder. ALWAYS take the doe to the buck's cage for breeding. Good Luck !!!

A breeder we work with had taken away the doe's nestbox (it was understandable as she had waited until day 36 to take it) and the next morning she woke up to a single kit on the wire. It was a first time mom, but luckily she was able to save the kit and foster it. Now things like that don't usually happen, but generally it's better to be safe than sorry. My does usually kindle right on the day or a few days earlier; I've had very few that have kindled late, but that's just my experience.
Palpating is the most accurate way to tell, but it's also the hardest way to check. Every book under the sun makes it sound so easy, but it does take some practice. It helps to have a breeder who knows their stuff help you out. I would never have been able to do it without a breeders help. We've found that preg does usually have a "look" to them; after you've seen a couple you can tell which ones are pregnant (a little later in the game than palpation). But rabbits are tricky things and does can pull some crazy stunts, so if you're not 100% whether a rabbit is pregnant or not, give her some hay and a nice nestbox (we put ours in towards days 26-28 depending on the doe), some extra feed, and leave her alone. I hope you have cute fat little babies soon!

 

[FarmerBoy24]

Ok so I have all 3 separated, now what could I use for a nest box? shoe box?

 

[Ms. Research]

So I should separate the 3 until the 2 does have kits? or to see if there pregnant?

All three rabbits should have their own cages. The does need separate places so that if they are pregnant they will be able to nest and feed their kits. Does are very territorial. Also the buck should not be in with pregnant does or with does that have kits. Again fighting will be the issue. Also if say after the 31 days are over and there are no kits and you want kits, then take the buck to the first doe, breed, then take him back to his cage. Then do the same with second doe. But now that they are of breeding age, all need separate cages.

Good Luck.

The 31 days for kindling is not a hard and fast rule. Some will give birth a day or two early and some will take a few days longer depending on the individual doe's time of egg inplantation in her uterus and hormone levels. Take the buck to the doe to breed ONLY if you want a bloody buck and a rather large Vet. BILL... ... does are VERY terratorial and will protect their territory against any intruder. ALWAYS take the doe to the buck's cage for breeding. Good Luck !!!

Thanks Bossroo. My dyslexia was showing. I've asked this question before regarding breeding and had very informative answers in previous threads.

TAKE THE DOE TO THE BUCK! Got it. Will flag this reply so I don't forget when I start to breed.

Also 31 days is just a guideline. Could go a couple of days early so keep vigilant. Got it!

Thanks!

 

[hoodat]

I'm kind of an oddball in this respect. I prefer a roomy shelter box to a nest box. the doe will make her nest in a corner (usually the farthest from the entrance) and she has room to get in and move around with less chance of injuring the young by stepping or laying on them. I make my shelter box so it can be attached to the cage or detached when not needed. The top is removable so I can check on the kits easily.

 

[woodleighcreek]

Ok so I have all 3 separated, now what could I use for a nest box? shoe box?

Ive tried shoe boxes, the doe will eat it. Go get one from the tractor supply.

 

[hoodat]

If you're handy with tools there are free plans online for making your own. It isn't hard to do.

 

[woodleighcreek]

If you're handy with tools there are free plans online for making your own. It isn't hard to do.

As long as you have your saw charged (if you don't have a hand saw) before you start. I forgot to charge mine and it kept tuning out of juice!

 

[Ms. Research]

I'm kind of an oddball in this respect. I prefer a roomy shelter box to a nest box. the doe will make her nest in a corner (usually the farthest from the entrance) and she has room to get in and move around with less chance of injuring the young by stepping or laying on them. I make my shelter box so it can be attached to the cage or detached when not needed. The top is removable so I can check on the kits easily.

Do you find that the shelter box keeps the kits in the shelter box vs kits being drug outside by staying on the nipple of the doe ending up on the wire and possibly escaping from the cage? Bigger area for doe to take care of kits and everyone stays in shelter box. I will have to look into this. Dewey was talking about plastic totes. Plastic seems to clean up so much better than wood. I will have to research this further. I would rather my doe have more room for her kits and have the kits stay in the shelter/nest box until they are ready to be out and about.

 

[hoodat]

I have a low lip on the doorway (about 2 inches) and that helps keep them in till they're ready to explore but you will occasionally have one hang on to the teat too long no matter what you do. Just keep an eye on them and get them back into the nest as fast as you can, especially in cold weather.

 

[FarmerBoy24]

Alright,

So I have the nest boxes in. I felt there stomachs and I feel nipples popping out. Does this mean there close to birthing?