Tell me about your farm workhorses...ATVs, 4 wheelers, tractors, side by sides, etc.

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Which do people think is better to get first a 4wheelers and pull behind wagon or a 2 seater w dump bed? There is a 4x price difference so I'm tempted to get the cheaper 4wheeler/wagon combo.

My son seriously wanted the 2 seater with dump feature type workhorses, but you are right....the price doesn't justify the tiny dump trailer and a second seat. They are expensive to fix, can't fit into the same spaces a 4WR does and use more fuel.

So, I convinced him to NOT go into debt to buy one and, instead, invest in used 4WRs that we could more easily fix by ourselves, use less fuel, and have more maneuverability and versatility. I'm glad we did, though he STILL wants the glorified golf cart....guys and their toys.

Just bought a 1951 Ford 8N so we can run a brush hog, pull logs and scrape the road when needed. Won't be able to attest to its worth until we use it awhile and see what it's capable of and if it was worth the money spent to have it here. I would LOVE if it they had more farm equipment that could be attached to a four wheeler but finding horse drawn sickle mowers is VERY hard to do right now and the ATV drawn mowers are too expensive.

 

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I love my 9N and have run a buddy's 8N that runs smoother than mine and the hydraulics were better, and I still use my 9N even though a have 2005' 57hp compact Montana.

 

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I love my 9N and have run a buddy's 8N that runs smoother than mine and the hydraulics were better, and I still use my 9N even though a have 2005' 57hp compact Montana.

That's so good to hear! We don't know much about tractors, so don't really know what to expect or what is normal and what is not with this tractor. It is the most quiet tractor we've ever been around, which was a surprise, considering its age.

 

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They are still around because they still work. 1 thing to make sure of is that it has a slip clutch (or whatever it is called can't think of it right now) on the PTO.
Since it is not independent if the brush hog is going and you want to stop or slow down and turn the brush hog WILL

 

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They are still around because they still work. 1 thing to make sure of is that it has a slip clutch (or whatever it is called can't think of it right now) on the PTO.
Since it is not independent if the brush hog is going and you want to stop or slow down and turn the brush hog WILL

It has one! We are learning brush hogs too....when first we tried it, it wouldn't turn fast enough to cut the grass, but we got some good advice on it and I think it's going to work for us.

 

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WILL push the PTO then the tractor right on through the fence. It just allows it to free spin if the PTO is going faster so it doesn't push the tractor.

Side note mine is a little weak and I have to engage the Brush hog set it get up to speed then put it in gear to have the power to take off from stop and engage the pto.

 

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Got a new solenoid for my Honda and it's back to starting right up....I didn't realize how much I depended on it until I couldn't use it! Now I've got parts on order for my left rear axle....squeaking pretty badly when it gets hot, so will pull that wheel and see if it needs new bearings. Ebay is wonderful for parts!

Also got my old Cub Cadet back online....was waiting for a fuse, plugged it in and it fired right up. LOVE that old mower!

Tomorrow we sharpen blades on the brush hog and try it out for the first time. I sure hope it works!

I thank God for the machines He's provided to help us farm! Don't know what I did without them!

 

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Okay all you ATV aficionados(@Alaskan)....got a problem with my Honda Foreman 450 ES, 2001 model. It is sporadically not starting via the ES and I just hear a click from the solenoid when I press the button on the starter. But....sometimes it fires up just fine, first time.

So, checked the battery charge and it's fine...pulls 12.7 amps when not in use and 15 amps when running. I charged the battery anyway but it didn't take more than a few seconds to show it fully charged. Then I replaced the solenoid...that was an easy repair. Still, same thing....just that lonely click at the solenoid most of the time, but at odd times I can go out and try it and it will fire right up.

This symptom happened all in one day....wasn't having trouble with it at all until that one day, wasn't doing anything different with it, but just refused to start after I had been using it throughout the day, off and on. Then later I tried it and it started and that gave me hope...and it would continue to start fine the next few times I tried it. Then, it wouldn't.

I'm absolutely no good with electrical issues and am not particularly mechanically inclined, so if you know what it is or could be, please let me know in laymen terms or just tell me how to fix it, please?

 

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So....was accessing YT and found a vid I hadn't before that said it may be the starter motor. Since that's a relatively cheap part to buy and not too hard to put on, I ordered one off Ebay for $34. Sure hope that's the issue!

 

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So....was accessing YT and found a vid I hadn't before that said it may be the starter motor. Since that's a relatively cheap part to buy and not too hard to put on, I ordered one off Ebay for $34. Sure hope that's the issue!

It could very well be that or as simple as the connection or a bad spot in the wiring. But the motor isn't that much and a part that goes out eventually anyway.


I have a 96' diesel that has a bad terminal connection and it makes me that a simple connection to one of the batteries keeps it from charging when running or starting later. Even with a charger or jumper cables hooked up. The 1 hot wire with the T needed to connect both batteries is $300 and I didn't want to just rig up something.
So it's still down.