What to look for in an Endurance horse? PROSPECT W/ VIDEO!!!

michickenwrangler

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Good feet of course is a must

Able to move out relaxed and willingly

A lot of show horses do well in 2nd careers of distance riding because they are often bored of the show ring and enjoy the challenge of the trail

Able to go through water, over logs, maneuver rocks, slopes and odd things like dump trucks in the woods or Bigfoot people blasting "Bigfoot calls" (this happened to me on an endurance ride)

For shorter rides, just about any horse not just an Arab can do it if properly conditioned. Arabs are a "little easier" to condition because their muscles are built for it. But I have seen Quarter Horses, Paints, Appaloosas, Thoroughbreds, Tennessee Walkers, Icelandics, Grades, Trakehners, Percherons, Draft-crosses, Saddlebreds, Pasos, mules, Morgans and Fox Trotters on sanctioned rides.

A good attitude and a horse that enjoys long trail rides can overcome less than perfect conformation. My mare has an upright shoulder and long back but does great.

Cardio-vascular system is another "must". A horse should have a low standing pulse, preferably under 48 beats per minute (bpm) and able to get their heart rate down quickly. This of course is accomplished with conditioning but a horse that naturally has a big heart, lungs and naturally low pulse can give you an advantage. Also a horse that can eat while activity is going on and will drink on the trail from strange buckets or natural water.
 

WhiteMountainsRanch

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Hi Mi,

Was hoping you would post on here! Thank you!

Well I am leasing him until I can get his PPE done and then if everything comes out well I plan on purchasing him. He is so wonderful and nice and so lovely to ride. I just love him!

I need to get some video for you guys, he is amazing! :D
 

BrownSheep

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I know nothing about horses but daaaaaaang.
 

Bunnylady

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Don't you just loooove Arabians! :love

One thing I noticed, is that whether circling to the left or right, he carries his tail to the right, and his nose is tipped slightly to the right, too. Lots of horses are a bit one-sided, but I'm thinking a visit from an equine Chiropractor might be helpful. Of course, it's possible that just doing stretches and limbering exercises may straighten him out, too. :idunno
 

goodhors

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A Pre-Purchase is as extensive (read expensive) or to the point of
only specific items, as the prospective buyer chooses to make it.
Depending on horse price, on cheap ones you might save money just
taking the animal "as is" over spending a $1000 or more on checking
him out. Better to save the money to use on other stuff if horse is
"only" a couple thousand to buy it.

Western breeds, horses that have been doing many jobs, lots
of show mileage with wins, I would probably get hooves x-rayed, do flexion
testing, see what they show me. The Stock Horse breeds are
so inter-bred with QH, that the small foot, no sole, is a huge factor
in Navicular problems which are career ending at young ages. If
nothing else, you will have a starting point if a problem develops, so
you can compare old with new x-rays for differences.

Higher priced horses, I would probably want joint shots, along with hooves
and flexion testing, because as a distance horse he will be doing a lot of
miles. Should have pretty clean joints, hooves, since he hasn't ever
worked very hard before. You x-ray person needs to be putting "markers"
in the x-rays, so you have a realistic size item (dime, quarter( to measure
against. Angles should be consistant, hoof up on blocks, to get clear views
of hoof parts. There is a REAL TECHNIQUE to getting good, readable x-rays
to see any problems. Label on each shot needs to be correct! Asking your
local Farriers could give you a better Leg and Lameness Vet for such work,
than one only doing it now and again.

We had a sale horse that Buyer sent a Vet to examine, which kind of turned into
a comedy. Vet helper was READING the book for how to do Flexions, timing
and how to hold legs up!! They also referred to the Book for angles of hoof
and leg shots of the x-rays. WEIRD but we just did what they asked, Buyer
was calling the shots. We heard thru the grapevine that she sent ALL the
multitude of pictures to be read again at the State Vet College and horse was CLEAN as a
whistle! College kept copies as demonstrations for PERFECT joints to compare
other pictures to!! However Buyer's Vet, out of State, didn't EVEN bother to
look at the pictures because a horse over 17.2H ALWAYS has leg problems!
So based on that, and NOT sending horse for a 3 MONTH try-out, the weasly
Buyer didn't pay Vet or buy our horse. Vet called us to get paid, but we said
the deal was between Vet and Buyer, NOT us Sellers. Had to be a heck of
a bill, all those pictures and time she spent at our house looking horse over.

You might want to get a GOOD Farrier involved too, see what they think of horse
hooves, if they see any problems now or issues that could happen with a lot
of use. Pay them for their visit and evaluation. Hooves and legs are the Farriers
business, they see vastly more than even regular Vets, notice things others miss.
Getting Vet and Farrier to visit together, they can get shots that help the Farrier
see inside the hoof, angles they need best.

You don't have to follow a set formula for PPE, can narrow it down to just things
of the most interest in use as a long-distance horse. You don't care if he can use
hocks for spins or sliding stops, not going to be doing that. Read up on some of
the Endurance and Competitive Distance riding forums, ask what parts break down
first or most commonly, so you can check that out.

And of course there are ALWAYS the exceptions to EVERY rule, horses going for YEARS
on feet that look like they wouldn't let him walk or crooked legs that never break
down in thousands of miles of riding. Other PERFECT looking horses with great x-rays,
didn't last a year in work! It's always a gamble, no horse is ever going
to be perfect. PPE is not like a warrenty, no returns regardless of his staying sound or
not in use. PPE just gives you a bit more information to make the choice to buy or keep
looking. You don't spend all your cash on the FULL PPE, for an inexpensive horse.
 

violetsky888

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Many years ago I had an arabian. They always seem to have a built in reputation as endurance prospects. My arabian would be the first to start flagging after a long trail ride. (ten miles+). He had
textbook perfect confirmation, great disposition and willing attitude. My aunt later took him to nationals in show jumping where he excelled. He turned out to be much better suited for ring work. In my lifetime the one horse I couldn't
tire out and never got the edge off was a big rawboned flat muscled appaloosa. He was an ex racetrack ponying horse with a huge scopey trot. The earlier post mentioning the trot as the most important
feature is true. I don't think bulging defined muscles makes a good endurance horse. Confirmation obviously is important but my horse was not perfect, he was a little long bodied and big headed but he moved
in a grand style. You can train any horse into fitness but an endurance horse has to have an efficiency of movement covering a lot of space with little effort. A horse that isn't moving can only show you obvious
confirmation flaws that will break him down. BTW, many years later the arabian died in his stall in early twenties after having a heart attack. He had the best of care and should of lived longer. My biggest worry
about the gelding you are thinking about, is having doubts enough to question and wonder if he is a good prospect. If it is only the contrast between your higher strung mare that has you worried I think you should go
with the gelding. Calm is a good thing.

One other thing. The US military back in the day they used horses did a strength and endurance test. The findings showed after 15.2 strength was not a proportional factor. That said
if you are a heavier rider a 16.1 horse is not necessarily stronger than a 15.1, but with smaller horses the weight of the rider verses the horse is an important factor. A 14.1 arabian that weighs 800lbs needs a very light rider to compete
in endurance or will be outclassed by a larger horse carrying the same weight. Keep in mind in the racetrack they handicap horses with just a few pounds difference. The over 15.2 may just mean thinner longer legs or whatever
statistically happens but is not a firm rule. I'm just trying to illustrate you can put a 200 lb rider on a well built 15.1 horse and performance won't necessarily drop than with a 16 hand horse but will drop dramatically
with smaller horses. Not that a heavier rider will ever have an advantage but your horse may start flagging faster if its more of an effort to carry you. I weighed around 115 lbs on a 14.1 arab. He was a perfect horse for
a hour or two trail ride. Every horse is different there are not rules that are set in stone, just generalities.
 

WhiteMountainsRanch

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Bunnylady said:
Don't you just loooove Arabians! :love

One thing I noticed, is that whether circling to the left or right, he carries his tail to the right, and his nose is tipped slightly to the right, too. Lots of horses are a bit one-sided, but I'm thinking a visit from an equine Chiropractor might be helpful. Of course, it's possible that just doing stretches and limbering exercises may straighten him out, too. :idunno
Thank you Bunny lady! I did notice his tail, but not his nose. If I do end up buying him I will definitely have him adjusted. :D
 

WhiteMountainsRanch

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goodhors said:
A Pre-Purchase is as extensive (read expensive) or to the point of
only specific items, as the prospective buyer chooses to make it.
Depending on horse price, on cheap ones you might save money just
taking the animal "as is" over spending a $1000 or more on checking
him out. Better to save the money to use on other stuff if horse is
"only" a couple thousand to buy it.

Western breeds, horses that have been doing many jobs, lots
of show mileage with wins, I would probably get hooves x-rayed, do flexion
testing, see what they show me. The Stock Horse breeds are
so inter-bred with QH, that the small foot, no sole, is a huge factor
in Navicular problems which are career ending at young ages. If
nothing else, you will have a starting point if a problem develops, so
you can compare old with new x-rays for differences.

Higher priced horses, I would probably want joint shots, along with hooves
and flexion testing, because as a distance horse he will be doing a lot of
miles. Should have pretty clean joints, hooves, since he hasn't ever
worked very hard before. You x-ray person needs to be putting "markers"
in the x-rays, so you have a realistic size item (dime, quarter( to measure
against. Angles should be consistant, hoof up on blocks, to get clear views
of hoof parts. There is a REAL TECHNIQUE to getting good, readable x-rays
to see any problems. Label on each shot needs to be correct! Asking your
local Farriers could give you a better Leg and Lameness Vet for such work,
than one only doing it now and again.

We had a sale horse that Buyer sent a Vet to examine, which kind of turned into
a comedy. Vet helper was READING the book for how to do Flexions, timing
and how to hold legs up!! They also referred to the Book for angles of hoof
and leg shots of the x-rays. WEIRD but we just did what they asked, Buyer
was calling the shots. We heard thru the grapevine that she sent ALL the
multitude of pictures to be read again at the State Vet College and horse was CLEAN as a
whistle! College kept copies as demonstrations for PERFECT joints to compare
other pictures to!! However Buyer's Vet, out of State, didn't EVEN bother to
look at the pictures because a horse over 17.2H ALWAYS has leg problems!
So based on that, and NOT sending horse for a 3 MONTH try-out, the weasly
Buyer didn't pay Vet or buy our horse. Vet called us to get paid, but we said
the deal was between Vet and Buyer, NOT us Sellers. Had to be a heck of
a bill, all those pictures and time she spent at our house looking horse over.

You might want to get a GOOD Farrier involved too, see what they think of horse
hooves, if they see any problems now or issues that could happen with a lot
of use. Pay them for their visit and evaluation. Hooves and legs are the Farriers
business, they see vastly more than even regular Vets, notice things others miss.
Getting Vet and Farrier to visit together, they can get shots that help the Farrier
see inside the hoof, angles they need best.

You don't have to follow a set formula for PPE, can narrow it down to just things
of the most interest in use as a long-distance horse. You don't care if he can use
hocks for spins or sliding stops, not going to be doing that. Read up on some of
the Endurance and Competitive Distance riding forums, ask what parts break down
first or most commonly, so you can check that out.

And of course there are ALWAYS the exceptions to EVERY rule, horses going for YEARS
on feet that look like they wouldn't let him walk or crooked legs that never break
down in thousands of miles of riding. Other PERFECT looking horses with great x-rays,
didn't last a year in work! It's always a gamble, no horse is ever going
to be perfect. PPE is not like a warrenty, no returns regardless of his staying sound or
not in use. PPE just gives you a bit more information to make the choice to buy or keep
looking. You don't spend all your cash on the FULL PPE, for an inexpensive horse.


Thank you Goodhors. This is what I was thinking, he is a "cheap" horse, they are willing to give me the deal of a lifetime on him. The PP Exam could be 1/3 of what he costs, with x-rays it could be 1/2 of what he costs! I am thinking I will do a regular exam and be satisfied with that. My trainer has known him his whole and he has never been overused, never been injured, and is sound. And like you said, it's no guarantee anyway! It's not like I am looking at a $10,000 dollar horse to go do the Tevis with. :lol:
 
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