# Doe Not Accepting?



## HomesteaderWife (Jun 18, 2015)

Hey there Backyard Herds- I am new to rabbits, so I am having a bit of difficulty with our breeding pair at the moment. When we originally got our female from an auction, they said she had been bred. Obviously, that did not happen, because we timed her supposed pregnancy and NO BABIES.

So I have tried twice now in the early mornings while it is cool to take her to the bucks cage and breed her. He shows all the interest in the world, but she does this sort of grunt/growling thing at him and runs around. She keeps her hind end down and won't lift her tail, so we have yet to get a successful breeding yet. 

Do you have any advice on how to get the female to accept the breeding?

Thank you so much for your help!


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

I will place my hand over their head to help hold them still and then try to lift their butts for them if need be. If you do a table breeding it is easier to just relax the doe and roll her out, so to speak, and then place the buck down and let him get her. Sometimes just fishing for the tail and making sure it is up and out of the way helps too.


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

I had this same issue with 12 does over the course of 2 years... Either they did what you are describing or they just didn't take. I started watching their vulvas for a reddish coloring and that indicates they are really ready...  I started feeding them a vitamin D supplement that has since made breeding effortless on all sides. Does are more receptive to the bucks, bucks don't have to work as hard, I RARELY have to hold anyone or step in and they are taking on a first breeding instead of a week 5 of breeding or not at all.


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## mysunwolf (Jun 18, 2015)

@Samantha drawz has some awesome rabbit advice! The one thing I always suggest is to place the buck's and doe's cages right next to each other for at least a week so that they can get to know each other before trying to breed them. I have had bad luck breeding in a "neutral" scent zone where no rabbits have been, but it's worth a try.


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## animalmom (Jun 18, 2015)

@Samantha drawz, can you give us more details on your Vitamin D use?  Dosage, the product you are using, are you doing this year round or just before breeding season?

I would like to give my rabbits a little extra boost before their breeding season and am stymied as to how to do that.  Sounds like you may have a solution.  Please share, and as always, thank you to the max.


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

@animalmom this is the one I use. I have used it for 3 years now?  with the harsh winters here I found that their breeding abilities were harshly affected and because I am sooo attached to my "small" herd I really couldn't think about selling ALL of my does and starting over like everyone suggested. As a last ditch effort I tried this. I had it for a squirrel I owned at the time because her hair would fall out without the vit D so I had it on hand and I seriously do so little but it is just enough to jump start them and give them the nutrients they miss from the harsh winters. I Tried the past 2 years to get babies without it and out of 40 breedings, NO babies. That was religiously breeding EVERY wednesday as advised by a top breeder in the nation. I do two of the tiny scoops that come with the powder per 50# bag of feed mixed in. Within 3 days of feeding it I bred them and 31 days later, BABIES! This has happened for me three years in a row and each time within days they all or most take. 

I have started doing a lot of natural supplements and have had amazing luck with growth, health and all over conditions of my rabbits who are sooooo sensitive digestively and physically.


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

I just finished the first jar up after using it for 3 seasons on over 100 rabbits total. I like to leave it in the feed for the jr's I separate from mom to help give them an extra boost.  I have never lost a rabbit on it so that's pretty good right?  Since I started using it 10 other breeders I know of have since tried it with success.


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

I have since started mine on supplements from firmeadows called betterdaze, mmune, and gisoother. the mmune I use for immune systems just to help boost them up for show season because ya never know. Betterdaze I use for the babies and pregnant and nursing females. while the gisoother is for the young ones to help prevent bloat/enteritis while weaning. I mix the three into a 16oz bottle, 1tsp of gisoother, 1/2tsp mmune and 3/4 tsp of betterdaze. it calls for a pinch per 20#s of animal... I do three quick squirts into their water and TADA! done. This has worked since stopping my vit D for litters this time around as well but it is summer and they get sunlight and grass as well. They have a wormer I will also use on all babies starting at 10 weeks for 2 days each week until week 12 when they usually leave. I am going to attempt just the natural supplements this coming spring and see if it helps as well.


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## animalmom (Jun 18, 2015)

@Samantha drawz, perfect!   Thank you for sharing the info, I really appreciate it.  Trying to get does to lift for the bucks can get frustrating for both the does and me.  I'm all for giving more nutrients, and it is even better if someone can recommend what works for them.  Otherwise it is trying to hit a bullseye in the dark.

I will try your suggestions.  I raise for meat and if the does don't breed I won't have meat for the freezer.  Love my buns to the max but it gets difficult to explain to the accountant why I keep rabbits that don't produce.  I know they can, they want to, and they will... just sometimes they need a wee bit extra to do the job.  It isn't a question of bummer stock, or aged stock.  It is simply a question of nutrition, and getting the info on what works, seeing it is pretty much all off-label, is the challenge.


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

I totally understand your frustration! LOL!!! I hope something helps with your buns! I use the firmeadows supplements on the dogs, myself and goats as well


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## HomesteaderWife (Jun 18, 2015)

I'm with @animalmom on this one- our rabbits are going to be bred for meat and sale, so this is an important topic for me. I am very thankful to you Samantha for posting all of this information, as I had read up on the Vitamin D bit but didn't really know if it worked.

I am curious to try this and see what results we have. Thank you again for your help, and I will be sure to stay updated on this.

P.S. Our local animal supply company sells this calcium phosphorous powder with Vit. D pretty cheap, so when I order our pet vaccines next I will be surely ordering this as well! I am curious to see the results of it.


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

Yes! please let me know how it works for y'all! I would love to watch your journey as well.


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## HomesteaderWife (Jun 18, 2015)

I will be sure to, because the frustration of buying a female we thought to already be pregnant...then waiting for the 31 days to have no results- it just really is a bummer. Especially when we already have found folks to buy from us! 

Either way, as mentioned, this information is really helpful and I do enjoy learning things from the experiences of others. I do have one other question though? When you mentioned the color of her vulva brightening and hinting that she could be ready- about how often does this happen? I'm just trying to see if there needs to be a certain time frame that I try to breed at.

Thank you!


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

LOL I feel you there, I have had a waiting list backed up for over a year now. 

I am not sure how often it occurs... maybe a couple times a month? I check daily and then when it is brighter reddish/purple breed that day. I have had more luck with the supplement and just breeding but I know many who it works for


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## HomesteaderWife (Jun 18, 2015)

Oh okay, I will make sure to check her then to see if I notice this (before I order and start feeding the supplement). Thanks!


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

Perfect  Good luck!


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## mysunwolf (Jun 18, 2015)

We have had good luck putting our rabbits in direct sunlight for extra Vitamin D  This has the opposite effect in summertime as they overheat and are reluctant to breed, but in the winter it has helped us a lot. 

And very much appreciate the info on lady parts, I did not realize that! I just read that a doe will accept a buck 12 out of 14 days--if this is true, it means that there are on average 4 days each month that a doe will be unresponsive to a buck because of her hormonal state. Guess that's not many, but I bet I've been able to hit all 4 in one month before


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

LOL @mysunwolf I am sure I have too! 

Breeding weekly, religiously sticking to one day each week to ensure the due dates are far enough apart to know if you're using a different buck and give it time to settle if they did take, improves the chances of them taking sooner. You would do it until you could feel a difference in if they are pregnant or not. Who gave me the advice is an ARBA judge and she raises French has been for over 30 years along with her husband and they raise other breeds too. What she told me made complete sense. It took her 19 breedings with one doe to get a single litter. Had they waited the full month between every one she would have never had a litter and it would have been a waste of feed and cage space. She has never had any issues with does taking with multiple breedings and causing issues nor have I, but I have only tried it this year. It just sucks to keep track of ALL of the due dates LOL.

I have found, however, that some does will not take no matter how hard you try until they are ready internally. Some of mine take by 12 months, others have their first litters at 19 months. My french have to be sr weight or between 8 and 9 months to even start trying. I like to wait until they are around 9 months to a year with some depending. if they hit age 2 with no litters, live or dead, They most likely will not have a litter and are pet out or freezer camp. Thankfully I have lucked out and most have found loving pet homes so far...


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## HomesteaderWife (Jun 18, 2015)

Loving the information that you all keep providing! I look forward to trying all of this out and seeing if our doe will yield any results. Like I said- daddy rabbit isn't the problem. It's just trying to get her interested and get a successful breed!

Another question to add on here- I saw one article where the breeder mentioned that they would put the doe in the cage, and wait until the buck had mounted two successful times before removing her. How many times do you allow yours before separating them?


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## samssimonsays (Jun 18, 2015)

I have some bucks that I HAVE to take the doe after one because he will exhaust himself too terribly but I will place her back in after 5-7 hours. This also increses chances because they release their eggs when bred and take a while to move down to the horns. Some will go upwards of 10 drops in only a few minutes. I like the number 3 for number of drops. BUT when I started out I only got one drop each time from my buck and got 12 babies each time. All depends. the more litters you have from your rabbits the more you will get to know their cycles and patterns.


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## Bunnylady (Jun 18, 2015)

As Samantha draws said, rabbits are induced ovulators (they produce a hormone in response to being bred, that triggers the release of their eggs). The hormone production peaks about an hour after the doe is bred, and drops slowly afterward. If you have a doe that has had smallish litters, breeding her again an hour or two after the first successful attempt will cause the doe to "peak" a second time, which may trigger the release of even more eggs. This effect only works if the breedings are within an hour or two of each other. 

Some people will breed a doe twice in a day, several hours apart. The argument for this is that a doe may only release eggs from one side, and perhaps release them from the other side on the second breeding. 

I'm generally too busy (or too lazy, take your pick) to take does back to a buck hours later. If a doe accepts a buck, I leave them together, unless the buck gets too rough or the doe gets hostile. I usually take the doe out within an hour. I can't say I have ever had any problems with litter size, except with older does; with them, I may put her in and take her out, then repeat an hour later. A few of the does I have tried that with refused service the second time, when they were quite willing the first.

Rabbit does don't do "heat" cycles, but they do experience hormonal peaks and valleys. Before I try to breed a doe, I flip her over, and press just in front of her genital opening to expose a bit of the inside of her vulva. If the color of the exposed tissue is pinkish, I put her back - she most likely won't breed, so I don't waste my time or the buck's. The color I'm looking for is a bright, cherry red, though some of my does never seem to go past a deep rose color. Purple indicates a doe that has passed her hormonal peak, and has aging eggs; she may breed, but her numbers may be low. I have never tried force-breeding a doe; I've heard that the odds are rather poor for getting good litters that way.


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## promiseacres (Aug 27, 2015)

Samantha drawz said:


> @animalmom this is the one I use. I have used it for 3 years now?  with the harsh winters here I found that their breeding abilities were harshly affected and because I am sooo attached to my "small" herd I really couldn't think about selling ALL of my does and starting over like everyone suggested. As a last ditch effort I tried this. I had it for a squirrel I owned at the time because her hair would fall out without the vit D so I had it on hand and I seriously do so little but it is just enough to jump start them and give them the nutrients they miss from the harsh winters. I Tried the past 2 years to get babies without it and out of 40 breedings, NO babies. That was religiously breeding EVERY wednesday as advised by a top breeder in the nation. I do two of the tiny scoops that come with the powder per 50# bag of feed mixed in. Within 3 days of feeding it I bred them and 31 days later, BABIES! This has happened for me three years in a row and each time within days they all or most take.
> 
> I have started doing a lot of natural supplements and have had amazing luck with growth, health and all over conditions of my rabbits who are sooooo sensitive digestively and physically.
> 
> View attachment 10321


So only 2 scoops per 50#?  And it makes a difference?  I have an unreceptive doe...


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## Ridgetop (Aug 27, 2015)

That is very interesting about the vitamin D.  I used to run lights in my barn 24/7 during the winter and had a good conception rate.  I wonder if the light acted like vitamin D.  I will be trying that.  When my husband bred Champagne D'Argents the does were notorious for not wanting to breed.  A long time breeder told us to put them in the car and drive around for about 15 to 20 minutes.  He had noticed that if he bred his does immediately after coming back from a rabbit show they would always lift and he would get a litter.  Other times they always had a headache!  he tried the car ride and it worked.  We tried it and it worked too. 
     You said you bought the pair of rabbits at an auction and the doe was supposed to be bred.  Do you have any idea how old she is?  If she is 2 or 3 years old she may never breed unless she has been continuously breeding and producing litters.  Ideally when buying a breeding doe who has supposedly produced kits you want to see the written breeding/barn records on her and hopefully her mother.  My husband used to show his rabbits and I found that with our New Zealands and Cals if we didn't get the does bred by 10 months old they might be difficult breeders.  If we didn't have a litter by the time the doe was 1 year old we might as well forget it.  We would often reach the end of the show season with a doe who had 2 championship legs and she would never finish because we needed to get her bred and couldn't wait 6 months for the next show to finish her before breeding her.  If you don't know how old the doe is, you might want to find someone with a litter of rabbits and invest in one or two junior does to make sure that you get kits for your customers.  I don't know about other breeds but that was my experience.


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## samssimonsays (Aug 28, 2015)

promiseacres said:


> So only 2 scoops per 50#?  And it makes a difference?  I have an unreceptive doe...


Yep. The scoops came in the supplement and I would make sure I used my scoop and got it mixed up well. Usually I would mix one scoop with half the bag and then fill the last half and mix that to make getting to the bottom easier.


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## samssimonsays (Aug 28, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> That is very interesting about the vitamin D.  I used to run lights in my barn 24/7 during the winter and had a good conception rate.  I wonder if the light acted like vitamin D.  I will be trying that.  When my husband bred Champagne D'Argents the does were notorious for not wanting to breed.  A long time breeder told us to put them in the car and drive around for about 15 to 20 minutes.  He had noticed that if he bred his does immediately after coming back from a rabbit show they would always lift and he would get a litter.  Other times they always had a headache!  he tried the car ride and it worked.  We tried it and it worked too.
> You said you bought the pair of rabbits at an auction and the doe was supposed to be bred.  Do you have any idea how old she is?  If she is 2 or 3 years old she may never breed unless she has been continuously breeding and producing litters.  Ideally when buying a breeding doe who has supposedly produced kits you want to see the written breeding/barn records on her and hopefully her mother.  My husband used to show his rabbits and I found that with our New Zealands and Cals if we didn't get the does bred by 10 months old they might be difficult breeders.  If we didn't have a litter by the time the doe was 1 year old we might as well forget it.  We would often reach the end of the show season with a doe who had 2 championship legs and she would never finish because we needed to get her bred and couldn't wait 6 months for the next show to finish her before breeding her.  If you don't know how old the doe is, you might want to find someone with a litter of rabbits and invest in one or two junior does to make sure that you get kits for your customers.  I don't know about other breeds but that was my experience.



The car ride never works for my boogers. French seem to have rules all their own haha. Ideally we "can" breed my French at 7-9 months but they need to be sr. Weight first. And even at that, with a completely willing doe, it can take months of breeding her weekly before she takes if weight and age wise she's old enough but she's not mature enough internally. I had three does, 2 totally different genetics, take ten months of weekly breeding before I got a litter. One was just shy of 18 months, one was almost two and the other was 19 months old. Frustrating Lol. The show usually gets then a bit more receptive depending on the doe but I've had to leave does with bucks and still get nothing.  They just don't want anything. Ugh.


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## Ridgetop (Aug 28, 2015)

Samanthadrawz:
OMG - cross that breed off my list!!!  LOL  I like the easy way and NZW (although boring colorwise) will do me I guess.  Although I do miss the fun of breeding for those cool color crosses.


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## Ridgetop (Aug 28, 2015)

Did the powder stick to the pellets or did you mix it with a grain mix?  Didn't the powder fall off with the fines?  How did you get it to stick to the dry pellet?


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## samssimonsays (Aug 28, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> Samanthadrawz:
> OMG - cross that breed off my list!!!  LOL  I like the easy way and NZW (although boring colorwise) will do me I guess.  Although I do miss the fun of breeding for those cool color crosses.




Yes, French are not for the faint of heart either because they have super sensitive digestive systems and eat a TON before they actually get big enough to do anything with hahahhaa! But, i love em.... The personality far outweigh the cons of what they put me through, which has been emotional trauma, extreme frustration and anger as well as complete and utter defeat. BUT, the harder I push through and with each obstacle I overcome my herd pays back to me with better and better show quality than the year prior. Even when they are the same rabbits. There are 4-H kids right now who suffered a devastating blow in their French herd that has made them reconsider breeding them and I myself have been through the same devastating blow of Heat stroke and have offered my support and animals to help them rebuild the way others offered me when I lost 16 of my 21 rabbits leaving me with no breeding bucks. The year after that blow I had rebuilt on my remaining stock and that of others and was #2 breeder in the state. This year I have not had time for shows (goats took up most of it lol) I have fallen from that status but next year with the babies I got from this years breeding I will be able to do quite well and am super excited about that. It is all in the determination of the breeder honestly. The harder you push through the barriers the better the rewards you will reap.  Rule of thumb I tell all the people new and starting out. Because there have been times where "I" want to give up and someone is able to reassure me that it would be a mistake. I am ever grateful to those folks and I wish to repay the favor to others.


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## samssimonsays (Aug 28, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> Did the powder stick to the pellets or did you mix it with a grain mix?  Didn't the powder fall off with the fines?  How did you get it to stick to the dry pellet?




I mixed it in and because it was a powder they got it mixed with their pellets which also had steam rolled oats in it. 

It is designed that they don't need much but they also are usually only lacking in it mildly. You can sprinkle it directly on each dish but it takes a while when you have so many. this way it is not as much either. Anything given in too high of quantities can cause issues. But If you do a small pinch on top of the pellets each night for a week, breed them and then continue to do so until the week after they have the babies I have also seen an increased size in kits and milk production. My doe who could only support 5 babies was able to nurse 8 this last go round with the powder. I tried her again without the powder and she ended up losing 3 of her 8 kits to not enough to go around.  Maybe it's a coincidence but I don't know. I have also had bad luck this last time with not many survivors compared to number born without the powder. One doe had 9 with no milk at all, first time mom had them on the wire was probably from her being a first time mom, My great mom who had 5 gigantic babies last time had three mini babies this time and wasn't able to feed even one of them bred to the same buck. Then the doe who could only feed the 5 instead of 8. I had 1 other successful litter without the powder but she only had three babies. I have one more try without the powder and then I will try it with it again for the experiment I am doing with it. I am eager to see what the results are.


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## Ridgetop (Aug 28, 2015)

Samantha drawz said:


> The personality far outweigh the cons of what they put me through, which has been emotional trauma, extreme frustration and anger as well as complete and utter defeat.


Congratulations on not ending up in counseling over this!  LOL  I ADMIRE YOUR COMMITTMENT!  Are all of us as animal owners complete masochists?  No, because then we wouldn't enjoy the tremendous lift when things finally go right!  I am very excited to hear that you are having better luck this year and can't wait to hear that you have returned to the top breeder spot!  GO Samanthadrawz!!!
    This is a really wonderful thing to add to my store of rabbit husbandry I have learned over the years by listening to other breeders.  I am going to try it, especially since I have to take extra vitamin D even though I am outside a great deal.  Over the past several years they have found that most women are deficient in vita D.  Maybe it applies to all females in all species?


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## samssimonsays (Aug 28, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> Congratulations on not ending up in counseling over this!  LOL  I ADMIRE YOUR COMMITTMENT!  Are all of us as animal owners complete masochists?  No, because then we wouldn't enjoy the tremendous lift when things finally go right!  I am very excited to hear that you are having better luck this year and can't wait to hear that you have returned to the top breeder spot!  GO Samanthadrawz!!!
> This is a really wonderful thing to add to my store of rabbit husbandry I have learned over the years by listening to other breeders.  I am going to try it, especially since I have to take extra vitamin D even though I am outside a great deal.  Over the past several years they have found that most women are deficient in vita D.  Maybe it applies to all females in all species?


 thank you and YES! it is all a ton of work and the moment you quit enjoying it, you should get out before it is too late   LOL 

I think bearing children drains females in general and I agree full heartedly what you said about the deficiency. I also feel like we are not getting all we used to from the foods we ingest and believe that goes for all animals as well. The nutrients just aren't going as far as they used to. Sigh...


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## Bunnylady (Aug 28, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> Over the past several years they have found that most women are deficient in vita D.*  Maybe it applies to all females in all species?*



Probably not. What we call vitamin D is actually a hormone that the skin produces when exposed to sunlight. We aren't _meant_ to consume it, our bodies are supposed to make it. Some of the reasons that a lot of people don't have enough are:

1) An awful lot of us spend most of our time indoors
2) Concern over skin cancer risk leads a lot of us to cover up and slather on the sunscreen when we _do_ go outside.
3) A lot of us are, um, "past a certain age," and bodies of older folks just don't do things as well as they used to; that includes producing vitamin D.

I've never before heard of a vitamin D deficiency being implicated specifically in reproductive issues. Vitamin D plays a role in the absorption and utilization of certain minerals (Calcium being the best known; that's why they started adding it to milk), but it is also involved in immune function. I suppose that a body that isn't working as it should in other ways might not be very fertile, too; that does make sense.

You have to be very careful with Vitamin D supplementation, because it can be toxic in large doses. In fact, there is a type of rat poison that uses Vitamin D as its active ingredient. Because rats generally live rather secretive lives in dark tunnels and other dimly-lit places, their bodies evolved to hang onto vitamin D tenaciously. A lethal dose for a rat is relatively small. Animals like cats and dogs, which spend a good bit of their time in bright sunlight, tend to excrete excess vitamin D relatively easily, so secondary poisoning from consuming rats that died of a vitamin D overdose is unlikely.

Offhand, I'd think a rabbit's need for supplemental vitamin D would be minuscule. Rabbits are crepuscular, so they wouldn't be active during the brightest part of the day; I imagine a life normally lived in burrows and other area of relative cover would create an animal with a fairly efficient ability to use vitamin D. Indirect sunlight should be enough to give the domestic rabbit the ability to produce all the Vitamin D that it needs. However, since sunlight can fade a rabbit's coat, and sun-fading can cost you on a show table, I can see that protecting potential show rabbits from the effects of the weather could potentially prevent them from getting enough natural sunlight to make as much vitamin D as they need.


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## samssimonsays (Aug 28, 2015)

Bunnylady said:


> Probably not. What we call vitamin D is actually a hormone that the skin produces when exposed to sunlight. We aren't _meant_ to consume it, our bodies are supposed to make it. Some of the reasons that a lot of people don't have enough are:
> 
> 1) An awful lot of us spend most of our time indoors
> 2) Concern over skin cancer risk leads a lot of us to cover up and slather on the sunscreen when we _do_ go outside.
> ...



Yes I did say that too much of it could cause issues. You have to be careful but in using it in small quantities and only when breeding or in certain parts of the year it has proved safe for mine as well as multiple others in my area (Northern Minnesota). Since this particular supplement is not just Vit D there is not as high of a concentration of it as well. The calcium is also good for them. Supplementing is not for everyone but it certainly has proved to work well here. I got my nicest and biggest babies born with it. Not to mention highest in birth numbers and successfully raised babies from each doe. 

I do know mine are in a barn with two large windows but they are on the side and in a low area so light does not reach most of the rabbits in my barn.


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## Bunnylady (Aug 28, 2015)

Not all manufacturers of rabbit food  list the vitamin D content of their feed (for example, Purina doesn't), but the recommendation is about 800 - 1000 IU/kg, and most feeds that report on vitamin D content fall in that range. Assuming that it gets distributed  evenly through the bag, adding Osteo-Form SA at the rate you have given (2 scoops/50 lb. bag) raises the vitamin D level of the feed by about 12 IU/kg.  That isn't a significant increase, which is probably just as well, since a level of 2000 IU/kg is enough to cause calcification of the muscles and other soft tissues. But the increase is so small, it does make one wonder - are the differences you have seen really linked to the vitamin D, or might it be something else?


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## promiseacres (Aug 29, 2015)

Bunnylady how do you deal with reluctant does? I recently bought a new doe who has had 2 litters prior for othe people And she just lays there.... buck tries... I try to hold up her rear but no connection. Her vulva looks pink. Have tried in his cage (she puts her butt to the corner) & the table. Buck has 1 litter and rebreed that doe about a month ago.


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## Bunnylady (Aug 30, 2015)

If this doe has been allowed a break since her last litter, she may have gotten a bit fat. Excess body fat can sort of damp down the hormonal fluctuations of the normal reproductive cycle. Netherland Dwarf does are notorious for this - you get a litter or two, take her out of production because of hot weather, and you may never get her to breed again. 

Generally speaking, pink isn't a dark enough color; the color you are looking for is a bright cherry red. I have had some does that never seem to get darker than a deep rose color, so you kind of need to know the doe to figure out what is normal for her. I don't think I have ever seen a doe that was showing bright red refuse a buck. I had one amazon princess that had to fight with a buck for a bit before she'd agree to breed (had to know he was macho enough, I guess), but I wouldn't waste the buck's time or mine on a doe that was only pink. 

If I have a doe that seems ready but just won't breed, I cage her next to the buck, and keep an eye on her. If I see her chinning things in her cage, I'll try her then - that can be a signal that a doe is "in the mood." If a doe that you know can't be pregnant pulls some fur, that is a pretty good indicator that she should be ready. If a doe lifts when you pet her, well, they can't get much more obvious than that!

I have used supplemental lighting during winter months, but not often enough to be sure that it works. Some folks may tell you that their rabbits breed year-round, but I have noticed that mine are often much easier to breed during the Spring months; you almost can't miss then. 

When all else fails, I have taken 3 or 4 (usually older) does and put them together in a large cage with a buck. I only do this with an older buck, one that most likely won't aggravate a doe to the point that she will counter attack. Having several does helps to spread his attention around enough to offset that possibility too. I watch the new colony closely because not all does will get along; anyone that seems to be too aggressive with the others gets removed. It's rather risky, but letting the buck catch the doe in due course has gotten does bred when they just won't work otherwise. Someone gave me a New Zealand White doe that they hadn't been able to breed, and nor had her original owner. I tried once or twice the usual way, then, when she was about 3 years old, I put her into a colony. All the other does in that group were no longer reproductively viable, but that one still was.


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## promiseacres (Nov 16, 2015)

Reread this again.... still no luck with my lilac vlop... starting lights. Did get 2 drops with a different buck. But no bunnies.


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## Becca'sBunnyBarn (Nov 18, 2015)

I use lights in my barn during the winter. It does help, but I've been having this breeding problem with 2 of my 7 does. I'll check the problem girl's vulva. Thanks for all these good tips!


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## HomesteaderWife (Nov 24, 2015)

Still no luck on our end with a successful breeding. These darn bunnies are driving me crazy! My best friend just got rabbits and bam..she had babies a few days ago. I'm just sitting here with a sour look thinking "These animals just want to test my patience."


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## Becca'sBunnyBarn (Jan 26, 2016)

So I have this English Spot doe who hates me, the buck, and life in general. I've tried everything to get her bred to my buck and I'm running out of ideas. All I want is one good litter so I can keep one of the does from said litter. I have no attachment to this doe and would have sold her already if I hadn't been trying for at least one more litter. Any ideas on how I can get her to be more receptive? I've had her for almost a year now, and have tried plenty of times to get her bred, but she won't. The buck has no problems with her. He would be more than happy to help me with my problem, but she hates him.


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## promiseacres (Jan 26, 2016)

I assume you've held her in position?  
I would do a super through exam... 
cystic ovaries can be a problem I have read... not sure what else other than tips in this thread. 



Becca'sBunnyBarn said:


> So I have this English Spot doe who hates me, the buck, and life in general. I've tried everything to get her bred to my buck and I'm running out of ideas. All I want is one good litter so I can keep one of the does from said litter. I have no attachment to this doe and would have sold her already if I hadn't been trying for at least one more litter. Any ideas on how I can get her to be more receptive? I've had her for almost a year now, and have tried plenty of times to get her bred, but she won't. The buck has no problems with her. He would be more than happy to help me with my problem, but she hates him.


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## Becca'sBunnyBarn (Jan 26, 2016)

If you mean position her infront of the buck for breeding, then yes. The buck will back off of and have nothing to do with her while I'm I'm trying to position her for him.  I'm not sure what else I can try. The buck is a good one, having successfully fathered many litters before this.


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## promiseacres (Jan 26, 2016)

I have had best luck positioning the doe on my arm, with fingers propping her vulva, and then literally placing her in front of the buck, in his cage works best. Though if she won't lift I would for that amount of time i would suspect something healthwise is wrong.  Good luck




Becca'sBunnyBarn said:


> If you mean position her infront of the buck for breeding, then yes. The buck will back off of and have nothing to do with her while I'm I'm trying to position her for him.  I'm not sure what else I can try. The buck is a good one, having successfully fathered many litters before this.


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## Becca'sBunnyBarn (Jan 27, 2016)

Thank you @promiseacres i will give it another try!


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## HomesteaderWife (Jan 28, 2016)

Just a quick update but fingers crossed I think we may have a pregnant bunny finally. She's looking veryyyyyy chubby- if she is going to have kits it will be sometime in the next week+ so she's got her nest box and bedding in there, and she's been acting different (not wanting to be touched, eating ALL of her food which is not normal because she usually tips half of it over). Please wish us luck- we have not yet had a successful batch of buns so I'm an anxious to see what happens.


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## goatgurl (Jan 28, 2016)

hope you get some bunnies soon. I just found this thread and have learned a lot from it.   i'm having a problem with one of my does too.  she just absolutely refuses to accept the buck.  I only have two does and one buck so if one of them won't breed then I have a problem.  I've let her have 3 months off and i'm concerned she has gotten to fat and may not breed at all.  the other doe accepted the buck and is preggers but I've been working with callie two months and still no babies.  arrrrr


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