# age to start breeding?



## daniel-delarosa (Jul 20, 2011)

Im picking up my New Zealands this weekend. They are 6 weeks old.  I have a few questions.   At what age do you start breeding rabbits? How often can you breed a doe? What age do you butcher the offspring?


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## hoodat (Jul 21, 2011)

daniel-delarosa said:
			
		

> Im picking up my New Zealands this weekend. They are 6 weeks old.  I have a few questions.   At what age do you start breeding rabbits? How often can you breed a doe? What age do you butcher the offspring?


I wouldn't breed NZ younger than 6 months and a bit older is even better. How often to breed a doe is up to you. You can push her hard and breed as soon as she kindles but she'll burn out faster that way. Nursing takes a lot out of them. I don't breed mine till the present litter is weaned. That gives her a little resting time and you will have larger and healthier litters. My doe seldom has less than 10 to a litter. This last one was 12 and she has them fat as sausages. Seldom does she produce a dead one or runt because she has her full strength back when she is bred. I butcher at around 5 pounds. Normally that's around 8 or 9 weeks but can go as long as 11 depending on the weather and conditions. Hot weather will supress their appetite.


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## Ms. Research (Jul 21, 2011)

hoodat said:
			
		

> daniel-delarosa said:
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> 
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> ...


Excellent advise.  I won't push hard.  I'm taking this slowly and will allow the weaning of the kits as a priority before breeding.  I think this is due to "showing" instead of meat.  Is it true that you need to stop when a doe is at 3 years old.  I read that they can have 10 to 12 litters for the life.  Is this a mandatory health issue in reference to the number of litters or could I say have 5 litters instead in the 3 years?  Would that raise an issue of health by cutting back and not pushing the doe?  I really appreciate all the info you have put on this site regarding the bunnies.  Reading is one thing, but experience is the best!   That's why I'm posting here.  And everybody has been full of very good information and accurate at that.  And I do appreciate it.


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## hoodat (Jul 21, 2011)

Does will sometimes surprise you. I have had does still producing good (if smaller) litters at 5 years old but around 3 is the usual productive time. A really good mama is worth taking some time with. Breeders often put too much emphasis on size of the litter and not enough on health of the kits and their growout time. Unless you are selling to the pet market it's better to measure litters in pounds of meat produced  in a reasonable amount of time rather than the number of rabbits raised. Meat, after all, is the bottom line.


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## dewey (Jul 21, 2011)

daniel-delarosa said:
			
		

> Im picking up my New Zealands this weekend. They are 6 weeks old.  I have a few questions.   At what age do you start breeding rabbits? How often can you breed a doe? What age do you butcher the offspring?


I wait until my NZ does are around 8 months old.  If you have a buck(s) in the group you'll want to separate them from the does by no later than 8-10 weeks old.   

As far as how often to breed -- everybody eventually develops their own methods that suit their situations best, plus a lot depends on the stock and the feeding program.  There's an interesting article comparing results from breeding schedules...39 day breedback vs the intense 11 day breedback.  Contrary to what one might think, the 39 day breedback resulted in less expense and equipment needs, more kits, higher meat yields, and, predictably, only half the replacement stock needs of the 11 day program.  (With kits being kept in the doe's cage until butchered at an average of 9 weeks with the 39 day program, so no need for weaning or grow out cages.)  My program is set up a similar way.  Generally, if using good commercial-type meat stock and feeding a good production diet, does shouldn't have much issue with being out of condition when kindling next.  eta: The corrected direct link is below (pdf):    

http://www.kralek.com/Articles/LargeRabbitry.pdf   (scroll down to "Breeding")

Or go here, click on the 8th article, then scroll to "Breeding": http://www.kralek.com/articles_of_interest.htm

Good luck with your new stock. 



edit for article links


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## doubled (Jul 22, 2011)

That link does not go to a file you can read asks you to sign up for Google docs,  

 would love to read it though.


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## dewey (Jul 22, 2011)

doubled said:
			
		

> That link does not go to a file you can read asks you to sign up for Google docs,
> 
> would love to read it though.


I corrected the link in my previous post, and also put the link here, below.  Thanks for letting me know.   

http://www.kralek.com/Articles/LargeRabbitry.pdf   (scroll down to "Breeding")

Or go here, click on the 8th article, then scroll to "Breeding": http://www.kralek.com/articles_of_interest.htm


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## hoodat (Jul 23, 2011)

I take care of seperating the sexes the easy way. Fortunately bucks normally reach 5 to 6 pounds faster than does do so I start my butchering with the bucks. By the time the does reach breeding age there are no bucks left in the growout cage unless I mis sexed one. (They're sneaky that way).


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## dewey (Jul 23, 2011)

I was referring to the OP separating their new 6 wk old breeding stock that they're picking up this weekend, in relation to their breeding age question, so they don't end up having 12 week old bred does.

My table litters never even make it to breeding age, so separating bucks from does isn't an issue.

But separating is an issue with any that are kept for replacement stock here...like 2 of my young replacement does that turned out to be a buck and doe.   Yep, gotta agree, they sure can be sneaky that way.


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## terri9630 (Jul 27, 2011)

We only breed when the freezer gets low or once a year when we need babies for the fair.


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## Caprice_Acres (Aug 2, 2011)

You can breed as soon as a doe hits 8lbs and you deem her mature enough to handle a litter.  I generally wait until they get close to standard weight, which is 10lbs. But then, I show so hitting standard weight is pretty important.

Most commercial meat breeders start breeding at 5-6 months old, and select for early breeding abilities. They *should* be able to handle it, but young immature mothers are more likely to take poor care of her litters. 

Since rabbits are induced ovulaters, you can keep breeding them at any age and as long as they're still having good size litters they're just fine to be bred.  Does heavily bred their lives will run out of eggs by 3-4 years or so, but does bred sparingly should still be able to produce good sized litters for you for many years.  Of course, it mainly depends on the individual's condition - if she starts looking old, or has trouble putting weight on, don't breed her.  If she starts having small litters, keep a doe or two back from her and cull momma. 

I breed back a doe when her litter is 4 weeks old, unless my freezer is really full (like it is now! ). Their litters are weaned at 6 weeks and that gives momma 2 weeks between litters, which is a pretty slow breed back schedule. It allows for my favorite weaning age and it has worked out very well for me so far.


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## hoodat (Aug 2, 2011)

dewey said:
			
		

> I was referring to the OP separating their new 6 wk old breeding stock that they're picking up this weekend, in relation to their breeding age question, so they don't end up having 12 week old bred does.
> 
> My table litters never even make it to breeding age, so separating bucks from does isn't an issue.
> 
> But separating is an issue with any that are kept for replacement stock here...like 2 of my young replacement does that turned out to be a buck and doe.   Yep, gotta agree, they sure can be sneaky that way.


I try to butcher out the bucks first. They usually grow faster and it avoids breeding too young. here's a tip to make sure you haven't missed a buck. Check your does back. If it's grubby looking, somebody has been riding her and you might have a sneaky buck masquerading as a doe. Of course, does will sometimes ride each other in the absence of a buck but if you have a grubby looking back on a doe it's a good idea to resex and see if you missed a buck.


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