# What should I feed my Nubians?



## Tiffany L (Oct 27, 2014)

Hello everyone 
I am located in Southern Pennsylvania and have just started building my Nubian Dairy goat herd.  We are coming out of the fields and pastures as grass is diminishing and I was wondering if anyone could suggest to me what I should be feeding as far as grain and minerals?  They have full access to hay 24/7 but was wondering what they should be getting other than that.  I have a Nubian doe bred and in milk - an alpine doe(not bred) - and a Nubian buck.  Also a pygmy wether as a pasture friend for the does.

Any suggestions and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.  I know that I need to be giving them minerals and I've also heard a baking soda feeder - but I'm not sure which minerals are best.  For grain I am feeding Sweet Goat 16%.

Thank you


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## SheepGirl (Oct 28, 2014)

Free choice loose minerals labeled for goats. Different people have different brand preferences. I raise sheep and I like the Southern States brand sheep mineral.

Hay -- for goats, about 3% of their body weight in dry matter. So for 90% DM hay, you want to be feeding your goats 3.3% of their body weight in hay. That's for maintenance. Instead of feeding more hay for late gestation and lactation you can add grain to their diet. For sheep as a general rule of thumb you do 1/2 lb per head per day 30 days pre-lambing and 1 lb per lamb they are nursing. Dairy goats are different and maybe some goatherders can help you with grain amounts.

@Roll farms @OneFineAcre @Pearce Pastures @Southern by choice


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## OneFineAcre (Oct 28, 2014)

You need to dry your bred doe off by the 3rd month of gestation.  We dry ours off by the 2nd month of gestation.

Most would suggest the bred doe who is still in milk is the only one who actually needs feed.

We give all of ours some feed, but not much maybe a cup per day.  The milkers get more on the stand.
I don't know that we really feed  by weight more just by feel, and since I have miniatures, I don't know that I could offer good advice on standard size goats.

How much are you giving them now?
What is their body condition like now?


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## Tiffany L (Oct 29, 2014)

OneFineAcre said:


> You need to dry your bred doe off by the 3rd month of gestation.  We dry ours off by the 2nd month of gestation.
> 
> Most would suggest the bred doe who is still in milk is the only one who actually needs feed.
> 
> ...




Thank you for your advice and suggestions - My doe is supposedly due in March - according to previous owners they usually dry her in December for a March kidding?

Right now I'm not giving my bucks or wether any grain - they are just on hay.  However, wouldn't they need a mineral of some sort?  I'm terribly worried about kidney stones after reading stuff online.

My milking bred doe whom I am milking is getting about 1 1/2lbs of food on her milking stand and free fed hay.

My other doe who is not bred and not milking I give a cup of food plus hay a day

They are out of pasture due to the fall/winter months approaching.  They graze on fallen leaves (non toxic of course) occasionally but that is about all otherwise.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 29, 2014)

SheepGirl said:


> Free choice loose minerals labeled for goats. Different people have different brand preferences. I raise sheep and I like the Southern States brand sheep mineral.
> 
> Hay -- for goats, about 3% of their body weight in dry matter. So for 90% DM hay, you want to be feeding your goats 3.3% of their body weight in hay. That's for maintenance. Instead of feeding more hay for late gestation and lactation you can add grain to their diet. For sheep as a general rule of thumb you do 1/2 lb per head per day 30 days pre-lambing and 1 lb per lamb they are nursing. Dairy goats are different and maybe some goatherders can help you with grain amounts.
> 
> @Roll farms @OneFineAcre @Pearce Pastures @Southern by choice




I am feeding Southern States Quality Kid and Goat Feed (16%) - I was debating on Sweetlix 16:8 lose minerals, my feed store's brand of lose minerals for goats,  or Manna Pro Lose Minerals.  I'm just not sure if one is better than the other.


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## OneFineAcre (Oct 29, 2014)

The bucks need minerals too.  2-1 calcium to phosphorus.

We do give our bucks some feed this time of year when they are rutting because they lose so much weight.

If they look well conditioned, then it sounds like you are doing fine.

Free choice, quality grass hay is the key.


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## OneFineAcre (Oct 29, 2014)

We have been using Sweetlix, but we have used Manna Pro as well.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 29, 2014)

Do you prefer Sweetlix over Manna Pro?  Reason I ask - I can purchase Manna Pro locally, Sweetlix I have to have shipped and it's a freight charge of $25 per bucket.  And then like I said my feed mill has their own mix of goat minerals which is even cheaper - $10 for 25lbs, but I'm not sure what it contains, they said it was goat minerals containing copper.  How do I determine the 2-1 calcium to phosphorus?
Thank you so much for your help and patience.  My family has always farmed - but we never had goats.  I of course wanted goats for mine


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## Southern by choice (Oct 29, 2014)

Our one vet never heard of Manna Pro and recommended Sweetlix. After comparison we opted to stick with Manna Pro- good mineral without the unnecessary shipping. Our other 2 vets have heard of both and have no preference.
They are very similar.

*Manna Pro-*
Crude ProteinMin4.00%
(This includes not more than 4.0% equivalent crude protein from non-protein nitrogen)
CalciumMin16.00%
CalciumMax19.20%
PhosphorusMin8.00%
SaltMin12.00%
SaltMax14.40%
PotassiumMin1.50%
MagnesiumMin1.50%
CopperMin1350 PPM
ManganeseMin2750 PPM
ZincMin5500 PPM
SeleniumMin12 PPM
Vitamin AMin300,000 IU/LB
Vitamin D3Min30,000 IU/LB
Vitamin EMin400 IU/LB
Lactic Acid BacteriaMin1.5 Million CFU/LB

*Sweetlix-*


*GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:*

Calcium, Min14.00%
Calcium, Max16.80%
Phosphorus, Min8.00%
Salt, Min10.00%
Salt, Max12.00%
Magnesium, Min1.50%
Potassium, Min1.50%
Cobalt, Min240 ppm
Copper, Min1,750 ppm
Copper, Max1,810 ppm
Iodine, Min450 ppm
Manganese, Min1.25%
Selenium, Min50 ppm
Zinc, Min1.25%
Vitamin A, Min300,000 IU/lb
Vitamin D-3, Min30,000 IU/lb
Vitamin E, Min400 IU/lb


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## Tiffany L (Oct 29, 2014)

Southern by choice said:


> Our one vet never heard of Manna Pro and recommended Sweetlix. After comparison we opted to stick with Manna Pro- good mineral without the unnecessary shipping. Our other 2 vets have heard of both and have no preference.
> They are very similar.
> 
> *Manna Pro-*
> ...




Thank you so much for your input.  I am going to check and see if my feed mill has a tag to use to compare to this and if it's the same I'll purchase from them - if it's not - I'll go w/ the Manna Pro.  The sweetlix is just too much money for shipping compared to going to the local farm store and buying Manna Pro.


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## Southern by choice (Oct 29, 2014)

Your welcome. The sweetlix has somewhat higher , yet not significantly higher,  Selenium and Copper. We are not in a deficient area for these minerals anyway so not a concern for us.
Our feed is very balanced and we have iron issues here anyway so we cannot leave minerals out all the time anyway.


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## OneFineAcre (Oct 29, 2014)

Tiffany L said:


> Thank you so much for your input.  I am going to check and see if my feed mill has a tag to use to compare to this and if it's the same I'll purchase from them - if it's not - I'll go w/ the Manna Pro.  The sweetlix is just too much money for shipping compared to going to the local farm store and buying Manna Pro.



There is absolutely nothing wrong when it's close going with what's most cost effective.


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## Pearce Pastures (Oct 29, 2014)

Didn't see it mentioned so I will toss in here that leaving out baking soda is not necessary and can actually decrease the absorption of some minerals.  Keep it handy along with some mineral oil in case you have a case of bloat (which we had happen this year with a buck who unlocked the gate and gorged himself of lush grass) but don't leave it out free choice.


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## Goat Whisperer (Oct 29, 2014)

Pearce Pastures said:


> Didn't see it mentioned so I will toss in here that leaving out baking soda is not necessary and can actually* decrease the absorption of some minerals.*  Keep it handy along with some mineral oil in case you have a case of bloat (which we had happen this year with a buck who unlocked the gate and gorged himself of lush grass) but don't leave it out free choice.




Also if you give ammonium chloride, it will no longer be effective when you feed baking soda. 

@Tiffany L  (in case you don't know) 
The ammonium chloride is in the manna pro minerals, it is also in most goat feed. It is to help prevent Urinary Calculi (stones) in goats.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

Thank you everyone for all of your help and suggestions.  And since you have all been so wonderful and helpful - I have another 

I'm pretty sure that my goats are due for vaccinations and worming - what should I use to worm them and what vaccinations do they need?  Keeping in mind that we do consume our milk and have a bred doe or two.


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## Pearce Pastures (Oct 30, 2014)

Before worming, you need to scoop up some fresh poo and take it for analysis by a vet.  It should run you about $15 and is worth it.  Without knowing what if any parasite your goaties have, you will waste money on medications guessing which one they need (or they may not need it at all).  Different parasite require different meds so a vet will be able to tell you if they have parasites, what kind, and it they are at a high enough load to need treatment. It really stinks that the practice was for a time to just rotate medications and give them without testing.  The result=we have resistant parasites and the medications available don't work very well.  

For vaccination here, we only use CD&T which seems to be the standard for all goat keepers. We give it once a year to all goats and to pregnant mommies the month before delivery (it offers immunity to the kids then for awhile).


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

Pearce Pastures said:


> Before worming, you need to scoop up some fresh poo and take it for analysis by a vet.  It should run you about $15 and is worth it.  Without knowing what if any parasite your goaties have, you will waste money on medications guessing which one they need (or they may not need it at all).  Different parasite require different meds so a vet will be able to tell you if they have parasites, what kind, and it they are at a high enough load to need treatment. It really stinks that the practice was for a time to just rotate medications and give them without testing.  The result=we have resistant parasites and the medications available don't work very well.
> 
> For vaccination here, we only use CD&T which seems to be the standard for all goat keepers. We give it once a year to all goats and to pregnant mommies the month before delivery (it offers immunity to the kids then for awhile).




Perfect - thank you so much!  How often do you vaccinate for CD&T?


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## OneFineAcre (Oct 30, 2014)

Adults get an annual CD&T Booster shot.  Like Pearce, we give ours their booster about a month before they kid, that way the babies are born with some immunity.

As far as the babies are then concerned, different people have different protocol.  We usually give ours their vaccinations at around 8 weeks old.  For the initial vaccination, there are two injections the second 3 weeks after the first.

Some people vaccinate the babies earlier, as early as a week or two old.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

OneFineAcre said:


> Adults get an annual CD&T Booster shot.  Like Pearce, we give ours their booster about a month before they kid, that way the babies are born with some immunity.
> 
> As far as the babies are then concerned, different people have different protocol.  We usually give ours their vaccinations at around 8 weeks old.  For the initial vaccination, there are two injections the second 3 weeks after the first.
> 
> Some people vaccinate the babies earlier, as early as a week or two old.




Do they make different vaccinations for adults VS babies?  I have a pygmy who just turned 8 weeks and has not had any vaccinations yet.


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## OneFineAcre (Oct 30, 2014)

Nope, same vaccine. You can get it at tractor supply if you have one of those nearby.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

Yup - we have a TSC.  Is the dosage directions on the bottle for adults and kids?


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## Southern by choice (Oct 30, 2014)

Same dose and like others have said 1 month prior to kidding and different vets have different protocol.
We give ours at 3-4 weeks and again -3-4 weeks after that. Some vets like a 6 month booster in the first year. We don't do that.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

My "farm vet" isnt really much into goats unfortunately and he's the only one local - hence why I'm kinda turning to you all


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## Southern by choice (Oct 30, 2014)

Forgot to add. When a doe is pregnant check her fecal abouut 3-4 proior to kidding. The hormones cause an increase in parasite load. Sometimes, if the load is high, it is better to de-worm at that time so the goat isn't struggling to produce milk and take care of her kid/s. Again 3-6 weeks after is also a good time to check. Use only dewormers that are safe in pregnancy.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

Tiffany L said:


> My "farm vet" isnt really much into goats unfortunately and he's the only one local - hence why I'm kinda turning to you all



He can do simple things w/ goats but more towards cows and horses.


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

Is there any ways to tell if a goat is bred w/o an ultra sound?  I purchased a goat a month ago whom is supposedly bred and due early March according to previous owner.  However, the doe was housed w/ the buck and she's not 100% sure?  Didn't know if anyone has any "at home" ways.


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## Southern by choice (Oct 30, 2014)

The best way to tell if she "settled" is whether or not she is still having heat cycles. If no heat than probably pregnant.
How long have you had her again?


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## Tiffany L (Oct 30, 2014)

I have only had her going on 3 weeks


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## Southern by choice (Oct 30, 2014)

Just keep an eye on her and see if she goes into heat. If not then try to calculate at what point she was with the buck. I think you said she might be due early March. 
Cool if she is already bred!


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## DonnaBelle (Jan 1, 2015)

I use Manna Pro, my goats like it and they look great.  I feed a good quality hay, fresh water daily, Manna Pro loose minerals free choice.  Bicarbonate of soda free choice, and 2 measuring cups of 16% protein goat feed once a day.  We have a large ranch with lots of browse for them to eat.  I have 15 Nubians.  Didn't breed this year cause hubby had health problems, but next fall will get a couple bred.


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