# Fair Price?



## aggieterpkatie (Jul 29, 2011)

I am looking at a couple of purebred NZ's and there's a 14 wk old doe for $50 and a 3 yr old doe for $40 with papers and $30 with no papers.  I'm a little more interested in a doe I can breed right away, but I worry that $30 (I don't need papers) is a little high for a 3 yr old doe.  At what age do does stop breeding?


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## Ms. Research (Jul 29, 2011)

aggieterpkatie said:
			
		

> I am looking at a couple of purebred NZ's and there's a 14 wk old doe for $50 and a 3 yr old doe for $40 with papers and $30 with no papers.  I'm a little more interested in a doe I can breed right away, but I worry that $30 (I don't need papers) is a little high for a 3 yr old doe.  At what age do does stop breeding?


IMHO, the 3 year old doe MIGHT be a little old.  I've read that you must breed a doe before she is 1 year old.  If not, her pelvic bone fuses then and she would never have a live litter.    I would look a doe younger but proven.   Around 1 or 1-1/2?  But that's me because I have never bred bunnies before.  And I would want a younger doe because I feel a 3 years old, she should be ready to retire.  I know some breed them older, usually I see this in meat breeders.  That's also something to think about too.  Are they meat?  Or was it 4-H?  I apologize if I don't remember.  

Anyway, that's my opinion.  Hope it helps.


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## dewey (Jul 29, 2011)

On the flip side, this view is a little different.   Depending on the old does history, current health, and how she's been bred in the past, for $30 you might get several nice does to grow out as stock from just 1 litter, plus some for the freezer if it's for meat purposes or even a nice buck to grow out...even if it's the does last litter.  You might get several more litters.  $30 sounds reasonable for a proven, healthy doe, that's raised recent litters, even if she's only raising 6 kits per.  Older does are cheaper for a reason.  It's true they can begin to wind down on numbers and are start hitting the age where problems start to come up, but it can be a good way to get started quick.  Starting with the young ones is a good way to go, too, but since starting right away is what you're after, I'd gamble with the old doe and maybe also get a young one.  Adult stock is hard to come by but just about everyone eventually has to thin out their herds.  This is where dealing with a reputable breeder is invaluable.


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## Ms. Research (Jul 29, 2011)

dewey said:
			
		

> On the flip side, this view is a little different.   Depending on the old does history, current health, and how she's been bred in the past, for $30 you might get several nice does to grow out as stock from just 1 litter, plus some for the freezer if it's for meat purposes or even a nice buck to grow out...even if it's the does last litter.  You might get several more litters.  $30 sounds reasonable for a proven, healthy doe, that's raised recent litters, even if she's only raising 6 kits per.  Older does are cheaper for a reason.  It's true they can begin to wind down on numbers and are start hitting the age where problems start to come up, but it can be a good way to get started quick.  Starting with the young ones is a good way to go, too, but since starting right away is what you're after, I'd gamble with the old doe and maybe also get a young one.  Adult stock is hard to come by but just about everyone eventually has to thin out their herds.  This is where dealing with a reputable breeder is invaluable.


Thanks for the flip side.  You gave me something to think about.


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## aggieterpkatie (Jul 30, 2011)

Yes, they are for meat.  And that's what I was hoping...about getting at least one good litter from the older doe.  Hmm.  It gives me something to think about. Thanks!


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## dewey (Jul 30, 2011)

Good luck!  If you got the old doe (already bred by a buck at the other barn) and a young doe, you could keep a buck out of the old doe, and by the time the young doe was breeding age you'd have a ready buck.  On the chance that it'd be the old doe's last litter, it'd save you having to buy a buck right now plus save a couple of months in feed while he sits idle waiting for the younger doe to mature.


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## aggieterpkatie (Jul 31, 2011)

dewey said:
			
		

> Good luck!  If you got the old doe (already bred by a buck at the other barn) and a young doe, you could keep a buck out of the old doe, and by the time the young doe was breeding age you'd have a ready buck.  On the chance that it'd be the old doe's last litter, it'd save you having to buy a buck right now plus save a couple of months in feed while he sits idle waiting for the younger doe to mature.


Oops they are Californians. She only has one buck so all her rabbits are related.  I have a buck I'm trying to sell now. He's an !american chin / silver fox cross that I could breed her with.


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## homesteadapps (Aug 1, 2011)

My main concern if buying a grown rabbit is  -- Why is the breeder selling a productive rabbit?


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## greymane (Aug 5, 2011)

I have seen a lot of breeders move "older" does to make room for younger or more productive stock, but that is a good question to ask.  Sometimes there are only so many cages to go around and they have to choose one over another.


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## aggieterpkatie (Aug 5, 2011)

Well, I think she's just making room for other stock. She's got a small rabbitry.  I think I'm going to buy a NZ/Cal mix doe.  She's 10 weeks and $30.  Unfortunately I don't have a very big budget to purchase a doe, plus my buck is a cross so there's no reason for me to get a papered doe.


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## Ms. Research (Aug 5, 2011)

homesteadapps said:
			
		

> My main concern if buying a grown rabbit is  -- Why is the breeder selling a productive rabbit?


I don't know about "meat" rabbits, but I know that "show" rabbits are traded to others.  Breeders switch or trade with others to get the "best" standards.  Others do it to see if they can get better coloring, coat, etc.   If you have a small rabbitry, this is what you sometimes do.  You might get a kit from a litter that you feel will help your herd be better.  But you don't have the room to keep two.  So you sell the older doe.  To someone who might think this doe could make their herd better.  Or even someone like myself, who will start my own.  

What I plan to do when choosing an older doe that is proven, which is wise to start out with, ask the breeder the doe's background, how many litters, how the litters were, if she has kept any of the kits from the litters.   An honest breeder will have all the answers to your questions.   Once you start having litters of your own, you then check out what comes out, what's best for your herd.   

There will always be "dishonest" people out there, but there are a LOT of honest people out there and you can build your rabbitry with their past successes.  

Good Luck with your venture.


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## ArabiansR2Cool (Aug 8, 2011)

$30 for a CA/NZ 10 week old does seems like a lot of money.  I can get them around here for $5-10 all day!  If you are paying the same amound of money, I would opt for the older doe.


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