# How much work are rabbits, really?



## MidwestMatthew (Mar 3, 2016)

My wife and I are interested in raising meat rabbits. We live in the city and although we are allowed to have a certain number of rabbits, we are interested in keeping them as "invisibly" as possible.

Our question is, how much work is it to raise rabbits for meat? Is it just a matter of feeding and watering once a day? Do we have to cover or uncover the hutches at night or in certain types of weather? Do we need to check them in the middle of the night to make sure water hasn't frozen, rain isn't blowing in, etc.?

We've never had animals of any kind before (not even pets) so we're not really sure what we're getting into. We also have three children (oldest is 4, youngest is a few weeks) and while we'd like them to be involved, it sometimes seems we're barely hanging onto sanity just taking care of the kids.  So we're not sure how much work we want to add to our lives right now.

Any thoughts?


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## Latestarter (Mar 3, 2016)

First off, Greetings @MidwestMatthew from the front range in Colorado. Welcome to BYH! "Midwest" covers a lot of ground, and if you're in an area that see's sub zero weather in the winter, at a minimum you'll need to provide them an enclosure (hutch) that protects them from the wind/wet, not necessarily temp. They do after all have a rather well adapted fur coat to help them stay warm.  You could build a smallish 3 sided, roofed, lean-to in an unassuming place in your yard and place the rabbit cages inside at the back. They don't make a tremendous amount of noise. Their waste typically isn't overwhelming and aside from the urine, the poop doesn't really stink. 

I don't own rabbits at this time but helped a neighbor when I was a kid. There are a lot of great rabbit folks here who can guide you on specifics and answer questions for you. There's also a wealth of great info and shared experience in the various threads. Make yourself comfy and browse a while  Glad you joined us!


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## chiques chicks (Mar 3, 2016)

Welcome!

Latestarter covered housing.

Food, water, dry wind free shelter, .........manure.

Heat is more of a concern than cold. No need to get up in the middle of the night for frozen water. I use lukewarm water in the winter so it doesn't freeze as fast.

If it gets below freezing in your area, water will be more than once a day. Having two out the sets of bottles you can swap out and thaw seems to work. The j type feeders that hang through the wire are nice and easy. Get the ones with screen on the bottom so the fine pieces fall through and don't clog it.

Hanging cages with a manure catch system is critical. Some sort of easy to clean tray is a great start. Make sure you have a plan to use it out dispose of it. It makes excellent fertilizer. It also works well in a compost pile. The urine is high in nitrogen, but the dry pellets can go right on plants.

I currently have ten rabbits and spend perhaps 10 minutes a day caring for them. There will be days that take more time if cages need cleaned or it's manure day. Mine are not take like pets and a don't handle them often. I feed pellets and Timothy hay plus some weeds in season, dandelion, etc.


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## Pastor Dave (Mar 3, 2016)

Greetings form rural Indiana!
As @Latestarter said, dry and out of wind by any means necessary; either a hutch with some solid sides and enclosed areas, or a minimum of a three-sided building. An 8x8 or 10x10 shed would work pretty well. No need to check on them during the night. If it gets down to 30degs, I put some straw in the cage to let them get off the cold wires floor. I feed in the morning, and this includes watering and any cleanup work; wire brush to cage floors, removal of soiled straw, etc. A good wheel barrow, scoop shovel, hoe or small pitch fork, and broom will come in handy. Keep totes with lids for feed, and a few gallon buckets with lids on hand. I also feed hay in the evenings. You will need a day a week to do some real cleanup work. The waste pellets are great for fertilization or gardens. There is no need to age it as it will not burn plants straight from animal to soil. Let it drop to the ground where you can make a compost pile, or use catch tray/pans to collect and have a way to get rid of.

I use 32oz water bottles. The thread on nipple/nozzle will freeze before the bottle. I keep the same nozzle to each rabbit, and if the nozzle/bottle has frozen, change out the bottle with a fresh one. Take a gallon bucket of hot water to drop in the frozen nozzle to thaw. If the bottle isn't solid, can dump out the water and add warm water or hot to the remaining ice to allow for drinking. If you can have a duplicate botle per rabbit, just fill with fresh water and after thawing nozzle, reattach. If you do this again in the evening, some will say twice a day is enough. I generally try to do it midday too. Rabbits thrive in 50-70degs and do cold better than heat. A 2Liter bottle with water in it frozen to lay next to for some summer comfort, or I also use 12"x12" ceramic floor tiles that I keep in the freezer until time to take out and put in the cage to lie on.

Lots of little things to try to think about. Ways to transport them from time to time. A mesh carrying cage is real handy. An extra cage to place a rabbit in if necessary is almost essential. Each rabbit needs its own cage unless you are considering a colony system. I do not, and couldn't tell you how they work. You need a grow out/fryer pen per doe to place the weaned bunnies(kits) in. Once they are up to 5# in abt 10 weeks, you either need to learn how to butcher or have someone do it for you.

You will learn a lot as you go, but to answer your question. Yes it is work. I have four does and a buck. I expect abt 5 litters per year out of each doe. I do bale my own hay, but not even considering that, the work involved to raise my rabbits has turned into a part-time job for me.
Hope it helps some, and if you decide to dive in, there are good threads on here under Rabbits that will give good tips.


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## goatgurl (Mar 3, 2016)

at this time I have a total of 6 rabbits, 4 does and 2 bucks.  on the days that I just feed and water I am done is about 15 minutes.  on the days that I clean cages and the like it may take 15 to 30 minutes longer. I keep large plastic totes under my cages to catch all waste whether its hay, bunny poo or urine and about once a week add that to the compost.  as others have said it is great for a garden.  butchering day takes more time than anything else but with a little practice that gets quicker too.  I keep mine in a three sided shed under shade trees because it can get pretty hot here in the summer.  they can tolerate the cold a lot better than the heat.  a word to the wise, since you live in the city I probably wouldn't be to vocal about my new endeavor.   many people are so disconnected about their food sources and may not appreciate your new found "hobby".  good luck


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## MidwestMatthew (Mar 4, 2016)

Thanks for the replies!

Sounds like care is minimal for the most part. Do babies have any significant extra requirements?

We're in the middle of Illinois. Winter temperatures rarely get too cold, but as those from here can testify, we often have at least a few hot spells during the summer when it will be over 100 for several days in a row, with little relief at night.

I think the heat is what bothers me most. Are there any "heat-resistant" meat breeds?


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## goatgurl (Mar 4, 2016)

I live on the Arkansas/Oklahoma border and it gets really hot here hence being under shade trees.  Texas A&M has worked for years developing a line of heat resistant rabbits called Altex.  they have also developed a line of nz called production whites. look them up on the 'net.  the ears on all of them are very large which helps to dissipate the heat.  that's why I've stayed away from the lop breeds and those with small ears.  and as far as the babies go I wean at between 6 and eight weeks of age and just feed them.  I give them 16% pellets and all the hay they can eat and feed them when I feed the adults.  no biggie


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## MMWB (Apr 22, 2016)

I am in a cold climate with long winters.   I find heated water bottles to be worth the expense and running an extension cord to. They never freeze.   How demanding they are in terms of time also is contingent on how many you will have.  Compared to most stock, they are low maintenance.


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## APictureofAmerica (May 18, 2016)

The heat can be a killer, but it is manageable. Be sure the rabbits are never in the sun- put a roof over the cage, with plenty of air flow between the roof and the cage, and no sidewalls during the summer. If it gets super hot, putting frozen 2 liter bottles in the cages several times a day, along with a fan, can save your bunnies. Avoid breeding during the heat of the summer- a pregnant doe can overheat easily. going without water is a sure killer, so keeping the water clean and full has to be a priority. 

It occasionally gets over 100 here, but out bunnies are under a large tree and sit up where there is a good breeze. I use rubber tubs for water in the winter instead of bottles, as it is rarely above freezing in the winter. It is easy to pound the frozen water out and refill it twice a day.

I have 5 cages (my cages are at least 4x4 each, with dividers that can allow the cages to be 4x8 when there are babies), and it takes me about 15 minutes twice a day to feed- but that includes cutting fresh alfalfa for them daily as well. Raising rabbits is worth the time and effort, but do your homework before you begin. Rabbits are often raised in tiny hutches or wire cages that do not allow them to hop or move around- especially when there are babies in there. I believe that all animals should be raised humanely, so consider the rabbits wants and needs before building or purchasing your cages. Also be sure that you and your children can follow through and actually eat them...   It might be a good idea to see if there is a rabbit raiser in your area that you can visit...


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## Baymule (May 18, 2016)

Don't breed in the summer heat or the does could die of heat stroke. I kept rabbits years ago and I always stopped breeding in the spring. It gives the does a break. Don't overfeed, a fat doe can't conceive and the heat is really hard on a fat rabbit.

A small table for examination of the rabbit would be a big help. A carpet sample gives the rabbit a secure place to set without it's paws sliding on the table. A monthly examination at the minimum is necessary. Check toenails and teeth. Teeth grow continuously and need to meet top to bottom. If one breaks, the opposite tooth keeps growing with out the other tooth to grind against. It sounds awful, but get small hand held wire cutters, turn the rabbit over, hold firmly and have a helper cut the overgrown tooth. There will be a crunch sound, the rabbit will jump or wiggle, but it won't hurt it. It seldom happens, but you need to know what to do if it ever does.  Rabbits enjoy willow and apple twigs to gnaw on and it is good for them.

Look inside the ears. Rabbits get ear mites and the ear gets crusty. If neglected, the crusty will go to the tip of the ear and the rabbit will scratch it's ears until they bleed. This can be avoided by a monthly application of a few drops of mineral oil in each ear.

Twice a year, rabbits blow their coat. They shed their fur in preparation of the next season. A spray bottle of water is all you need to groom your rabbit. Place the rabbit on the carpet scrap, spray your hands and cupping your hands, rub the rabbit back and forth. The loose fur will come off and ball up on your hands. If the rabbit is calm, spray it's fur and rub it back and forth.

Over all, rabbits don't require a lot of your time. Daily feed and water and they will reward you with delicious meat. I kept mine in hanging wire cages under a roofed shelter. The shelter had a solid back and wire sides and front. In the winter I wrapped the two sides with plastic to keep the wind off, but left the front open for fresh air. The floor was earth and easy to clean. Wood frame hutches catch the poo and urine, usually in a corner and has to be cleaned regularly or maggots breed there. I always felt the all wire cages were cleaner and easier to care for.

Hope this helps.


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## mandi224 (May 26, 2016)

Congrats on getting into meat rabbits! I think everyone has covered most of what I'd suggest regarding heating/cooling. Rabbits are great for people who live in the city or suburbs. If you're concerned about your neighbors, you could also put them in the corner of your garage if you have one. I have friends who raised 4-H rabbits in their garage right in a subdivision. If people are uncomfortable you can always tell them they're pets or show rabbits. 

We got our first meat rabbits last fall and our 3rd litter was born yesterday. The rabbits take very little work, especially if you hang the cages or have some sort of catch-system for the manure (e.g. put plastic bins underneath). Daily feeding/watering only takes a few minutes and dumping out the manure bins once or twice a week doesn't take much longer.

To answer your question, "Do babies have any significant extra requirements?" - Not that I have experienced. Mama does usually do a great job for you, and around 6-8 weeks of age the babies are ready to be weaned and can go right onto pellet food. 

The only somewhat time consuming thing for us is butchering days. We have to find a babysitter for the kids so both of us can work without disruption. We're getting better at it very time though! 

I will say as your kids get older it may get harder because sometimes they get attached. Our older son (7 years old) got attached to one of our babies from our first litter so that's how we wound up with an extra buck that we didn't necessarily want to keep! Haha. We told him he can have ONE rabbit. We do find that the kids like the BABY rabbits but as they get older and are more difficult to handle, the kids lose interest and are more interested in the new babies being born. Plus, it's a good lesson in where food comes from, I think.


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