# Goat housing



## annabelle333 (May 8, 2015)

I am getting two Nigerian dwarf or pygmy nannies and am looking at housing options for them.  The issue is...I am not much of a builder and my husband simply doesn't have the time to mess with it a whole lot.  We are open to buying a prefab, small barn/shed and trying to make it work.  I want to breed and have an area for milking and of course keeping them safe from the elements.  My question is- can you buy  a prefab goat barn that is reasonable?  or can I make a prefab work for my needs for secure goats/ birthing quarters/milking area ?  Any advice for a lady with no carpentry skills would be appreciated!  I am willing to pay for a prefab goat barn if it is cheap enough if anyone has suggestions!  Or tips on making something ordinary work that I can do...

Thanks!


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## Southern by choice (May 8, 2015)

I guess it depends on what you mean by cheap enough.


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## annabelle333 (May 8, 2015)

Good point... My budget is around 5,000 dollars for the whole unit...additions included in that.


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## Southern by choice (May 8, 2015)

Yep... you can look up for your area sheds. 

Here are a few examples.... the 2nd one is more practical.


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## annabelle333 (May 8, 2015)

Can you explain why the second is more practical?  Also...I have read that I need a manger, above ground sleeping quarter, quarters for birthing and an area for a smiling station?   Is this all necessary?  I so appreciate you posting these and spending the time explaining to a newbie!  

thank you!


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## Southern by choice (May 8, 2015)

The second is more for goats. Goats generally do well in a 3 sided shelter. Airflow is important. Depending on your region and they weather. In the second one you can use the closed side for kidding stall, milk area or divide it and do hay storage and milking. Kidding stalls are used for a short time.


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## Southern by choice (May 8, 2015)

Forgot... you just need something to keep the hay in for a feeder. My goats have sleeping shelves. They like to be up high LOL.

If you have oppurtunity to do so see if you can visit some of the farms you might be interested in getting goats from. Goats don't need luxury at all. These shelters for most of us would be. LOL


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## annabelle333 (May 8, 2015)

So an open side is important?  I am in Oklahoma which has extreme cold and hot spells-I was thinking a lock in area was better?  I don't know anything so is this wrong?


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## OneFineAcre (May 9, 2015)

You can get a lot for $5000
They don't need to be closed in
3 sided is fine
Mine does not have any doors to close of
If you look on my farm thread you can see a recent building I did and also how I did my kidding stalls
I built myself but you could do that type of construction and hire someone for less than 5k


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## TwoCrows (May 9, 2015)

I used one of those kit sheds, similar to what Southern By Choice has shown you here.  It was an 8x10 wooden shed, like the kind you get from Lowes or Home Depot. You might find one within your budget there. I made stalls inside the shed and one side was a walk way where I also stored hay. It was perfect for my pygmy's. Although they loved to chew on the doors.  LOL  You can use thin sheet metal to cover exposed areas of the doors or other ares they might chew on.


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## annabelle333 (May 9, 2015)

OneFineAcre said:


> You can get a lot for $5000
> They don't need to be closed in
> 3 sided is fine
> Mine does not have any doors to close of
> ...





TwoCrows said:


> I used one of those kit sheds, similar to what Southern By Choice has shown you here.  It was an 8x10 wooden shed, like the kind you get from Lowes or Home Depot. You might find one within your budget there. I made stalls inside the shed and one side was a walk way where I also stored hay. It was perfect for my pygmy's. Although they loved to chew on the doors.  LOL  You can use thin sheet metal to cover exposed areas of the doors or other ares they might chew on.



Thanks for the info- how do I get to your farm thread?  I checked out your website it didn't see barn pics. Beautiful goats though!


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## OneFineAcre (May 9, 2015)

Title is One Fine Acre - linear appraisal farmers market and cup of sunshine
Building starts on page 20
If you go through I have pics of the stalls later
There are some stall pics in my kidding thread too
And thanks about my goats


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## Latestarter (May 9, 2015)

Hi Annabelle333,  I think he's referring to his thread here:
http://www.backyardherds.com/thread...l-farmers-market-and-a-cup-of-sunshine.29447/
He posted the same info... I wasn't fast enough


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## annabelle333 (May 10, 2015)

I found it!  Wow- what a great thread full of good info.  I love your barn setup and of course then got hooked by your baby pics!  I am starting to look at prefab kits and will let you know what I decide on.  Again- thank you so much for your help everyone!


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## Ridgetop (May 10, 2015)

Whatever you decide to buy, get it BIGGER than you think you will ever need.  This is because your herd WILL grow. We all tell ourselves that it won't - that we will only keep XXX amount of goats but we are all liars!  We will HAVE to keep just one more or that adorable one because her face or her color or her perfect comformation or whatever!  Get the largest building youi can in the configuration that is right for your area and needs.

Goats need air circulation because if they are closed in too tight the moisture in the air (from them breathing in an enclosed space) can cause pneumonia.  You hay needs to be protected from rain blosing in from the sides which can be done with tarps down the sides.  However, YOU will appreciate an enclosed milking area where you can be warmer when milking, trimming feet,and doctoring goats. 

Kidding stalls can be simple and removable.  You can use plywood partitions to make several stalls out of a larger one.  Also, you can build them out of straw bales in an emergency or use the straw bales to put around the sides of open fencing as a wind break.  We had to do that during one particularly unpleasant winter with freezing winds (we sit on a ridge top with no protection).  Speaking of winter, in Oklahoma since you have very low temps, don't worry about cleaning out the stalls during the winter.  Just put a new straw layer on every few days.  The manure and pee underneath the straw will compost keeping the top layer warm and dry for kidding and sleeping.  It also works to keep the animals off the ground if you have snow and frequent thaws.  For a couple years we had El Nino so bad that we had 2" of standing water on the barn floor constantly all winter long.  By using this method, the animals stayed dry and warm.  In the spring it will be hard work to clean out unless you have a tractor (we didn't) but if you dump all that bedding where you are putting your garden it will be great for your soil. 

Also electricity is good but not mandatory. I like to be able to hang a shop light with a floodlight bulb over a corner of the kid pen in the winter. Make sure rain can't reach it and tie the cord up away from curious kids.) I used to use a heat bulb, but even though our weather dips from 90 to 35 in the winter, I found that a reflective shop light with a floodlight bulb, or even just a 100 watt bulb is usually enough. If you don't have electricity you can use a good LED battery operated lantern for light when milking, feeding, or kidding after dark.  I keep one in the house by the back door and one in the barn.

There are tons of easy plans in lots of goat books for easy feeders, etc.  My favorite and the best and easiest feeder for goats is a key hole type.  Measure the adult goats head at the largest part and find a plate or lid the same size.  Use that as a pattern and trace it on a piece of plywood.  Then measure the adult goats neck _width and height _and draw a slot that wide from the bottom of the circle about the width of the neck and longer than the neck height.  The finished drawing should look like an old fashioned keyhole.  the hold should be high enough up on the board that the goat can put their head through the hold and the neck should slide down into the slot (comfortably, but just tight enough that the head can't get out the slot) while the goat is eating.  The goat has to pull it's head up through the slot to the hole to back out of the feeder.  Usually the goat will drop any hay back into the feeder instead of dragging hay out onto the ground to be wasted.  Goats will not eat what they spill.  Drill holes in the 4 corners, and tie the keyhole board into a corner of the stall.  Fill by putting hay in behind the board.  Make sure the board is tall enough that the goats don't jump over it.  Our first one was too short (we made it for kids) and the kids jumped into the hay and went to sleep!

Take your time buying.  It is a big purchase and a lot of work to install and you don't want to have get another barn next year.  Have fun!


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## TwoCrows (May 10, 2015)

@annabelle333  Some of these hardware stores will even build them and deliver them to your place. There may be an additional cost involved, but this way you can have an instant barn for your goats.


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## annabelle333 (May 10, 2015)

The need for airflow makes sense now!  I also like the idea of compost keeping the floors warm- I will have solar on my barn- a perk to having a solar installer for a husband   So I will be able to keep some good lighting in the barn.  Again thanks for all the pointers.  I am getting increasingly excited but still have a lot of prep work- barn and fencing - before I get started.  

TwoCrows- I think I will see about that option- I don't have extended carpentry skills or experience and my husband is too busy with his work...Thanks for the tip!


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## Southern by choice (May 10, 2015)

Personally I hate the deep litter method. We did that one year when it was horrible cold and rained and rained and rained and we had no other option to do otherwise.
The following year we transformed a whole other building as there was no way I was ever doing that again.

The clean out , we also did not have a tractor that could fit under the roofing,  was horrific! It took forever and the smell was the worst. 

This year we built a temporary building as we are going to move soon... and we did the grit 6 inches deep. It is awesome. No odor easy to sweep berries every morning and when it was still cold we could put the straw in bedding areas and every 2 days pitchfork it out. Stayed warm, smells fine, and is clean. 
It can get behind if you don't sweep up the berries and they start trampling them down. oe the straw... then you will get urine odor ut if cleaned every morning then all is good.
We put shutters on the new building on the front and back so in the day the air and sun could come in... it has worked well.

I don't do deep litter anything... not for chicken houses either.

If you live somewhere real cold then it might be your only option. 
But if so build it high enough to get a small tractor or bobcat in there or you will be      

also Ridgetop mentions the MOST important thing... GO BIGGER THAN YOU THINK YOU WILL NEED!    

I am up to 41 goats. Started with 2 a month later 1 more and then another and another and it doesn't stop. It is addictive as goats are wonderful and you will love them and then you will want another breed and it will escalate... look at @babsbag  her addiction has now caused her to open a grade A Dairy! 

My goal is to get back to 12 does and 8-10 bucks.


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## annabelle333 (May 10, 2015)

I am starting to understand how a herd could grow quickly! I have started looking at barn options and am wondering if the direction of the barn matters and if being in the sun or shade is a better option?


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## Latestarter (May 10, 2015)

The direction matters only in so much as you mentioned solar panels and you would want the "flat" of your roof facing s-sw to maximize the panel's exposure to the sun... Not sure where you're located, but the prevailing wind direction matters as well as to where you put the "open end" or main openings/doors.


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## annabelle333 (May 10, 2015)

Good point!  I haven't talked to my husband about the barn plans yet, he is working so I am sure he will have ideas about that part when he gets back.


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## babsbag (May 11, 2015)

yes, @Southern by choice, the dairy is my way of justifying my addiction, lets just hope it doesn't  cost me my marriage is the process.   Worse than building a house, and I have done that too.

However it did take me 7 years to go from 3 goats to 30 goats (not counting kids), the trick to is to try and limit the number of breeds you own. I have mostly Alpine, so an Alpine buck is needed. Then came the Toggs, don't care for the milk so no more, only the one. Then added LaManchas to increase butterfat in the milk so I think I need an LM buck...so unless I send these kids to Southern the buck I have to use next year is related so that won't work. And I just got a Nigi buck so I can breed and hopefully sell minis. They add up quickly.


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## Bossroo (May 11, 2015)

I'm with Southern for anti deep litter ...  it may save some work for a time , but sooner or later it will cause you so much huffing and puffing and  when you finally clean out the barn.  The original idea for formica counter tops came from this compacted manure experience.  Why oh why Nigerian dwarf goats ?  Money loosing venture from the word go !  I get 1 or 2 almost every year from folks that finally give up on them for free and I get the bbq   benefits.  I would raise a dairy breed if I wanted to get milk or  a meat type goat if I want to eat the meat.


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## OneFineAcre (May 11, 2015)

Bossroo said:


> I'm with Southern for anti deep litter ...  it may save some work for a time , but sooner or later it will cause you so much huffing and puffing and  when you finally clean out the barn.  The original idea for formica counter tops came from this compacted manure experience.  Why oh why Nigerian dwarf goats ?  Money loosing venture from the word go !  I get 1 or 2 almost every year from folks that finally give up on them for free and I get the bbq   benefits.  I would raise a dairy breed if I wanted to get milk or  a meat type goat if I want to eat the meat.



One day you are an expert on sheep, the next day cattle, the next rabbits and then horses.

Seems one time your necropsied a killer whale didn't you?

Now, you are telling folks what kind of goats they should buy?

You are a real jack of all trades.  '

Master of none?


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## Ridgetop (May 11, 2015)

The deep litter system is not for everyone.  I am in southern California so don't use it often.  BUT the years we had El Nino we had somuch water coming that it was the only thing that kept our goats and sheep up out of the water.  The ground was so soaked that it couldn't absorb any more.  If we hadn't used the deep litter system that year we would have probably lost most of our herd.  Lke I said the water stood 2"deep on the barn floor.  And in the spring we didn't have a tractor so it all had to be shoveled out into wheelbarrows and hand carried out!  Our barn is on the side of a ridge, 4' lower than the main driveway so everything has to come up by hand.  Now we have a tractor, but because of the barn location we still can't use it to clean out the
barn!  My back still remembers those winters.  I just cleaned our smallbarn yesterday and took out 5 large garbage cans full of berries, straw and wasted hay.  The good thing is it makes wonderful mulch for my garden and wi save back labor this summer on weeding and save water wunde we are on water rationing because of drought.


Therry: 
That is another thing to keep in mind, _have an opening large enough to get at least a small garden tractor in_!


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## Southern by choice (May 11, 2015)

Bossroo said:


> Why oh why Nigerian dwarf goats ? Money loosing venture from the word go !



She is using the Nigie to do mini's.
First Nigerian Dwarfs are a legitimate dairy goat not a meat goat. Although there is a wide range when it comes to production a well bred Nigie can be an excellent producer.

The mini's have been around for some time but now just getting some attention. 
When people look up dairy goats it has always been the normal Standard breeds listed and then only one small breed is listed which is the dwarf.

The mini's are getting more attention because they are a small goat which people want BUT can produce as well as many standard breeds. Of course there being a range... 
If I can have a 60 lb goat that stands at 23-24 inches and gives me 3 qts a day in milk eats very little and is far easier on the land then it is a no brainer. There are many that just don't want big goats but want more than a Nigie can give.

Not all families can utilize 1 gallon + per day but may need more than 1 1/2qts.-2 qts.

Although my family can utilize 3-4 gallons per day that is not the norm. We have Nigies, Minis, and Standards.
As breeders we care more about the end needs of the people. For some the Nigies are the absolute perfect goat, others a mini and yet others a standard. 

Most people will still keep 2 goats in milk at a time. 2Nigies can give 3qts- 1 gallon per day (good milkers).... for many that is the perfect amount. Year round breeders that rarely ever have issues with mastitis, best feed conversion.... a lot can be said for the Nigi.

Why get more goat then you need?  

In our region there is a great market for Nigies. 
Anything from true milkers to pets. It is up to the breeders of the goats to be honest and if they have low producers and more pets than they will promote them for what they are.


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## Ridgetop (May 11, 2015)

What is the difference between minis and nigerians?  I thought Nigerians were minis? What are the expected yeilds from each?


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## OneFineAcre (May 11, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> What is the difference between minis and nigerians?  I thought Nigerians were minis? What are the expected yeilds from each?



Mini's are crosses between Nigerians and Standards.  What I see the most of are Mini-Mancha's and Mini-Nubians, although there are some of all of the standards.
ADGA is a strictly purebred herd book for Nigerians, but there is an organization called the Miniature Dairy Goat Breeders Association that maintains a herd book for these.


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## Southern by choice (May 11, 2015)

http://www.miniaturedairygoats.net/

or the "MDGA"

Having all 3 Nigies, Minis, and Standards I can honestly say there is a wide range for all.

First several factors are to be considered.
~ First freshener, second, third
~how many kids- a single, twins, trips, quads
~parent stock
~ how many times per day milking
~pulling kids at birth or dam raising

Nigies can really range from pet quality to true milker.
Some Nigies as FF may give 1 quart a day. But 2nd freshening may yield 1 1/2 or 2. Keep in mind it is not just the yield but the duration of lactation. 2 quarts would be on the high end and not all Nigiies will give that.

For example you may have a Nigie as a FF that gives 1 1/2 qts a day... that is great but what if that Nigie burns out in 5 months... not a long enough lactation cycle IMO.

Now take a Nigie that gives 1 qt as FF or close to it but stayes in milk for 10 months.

I'd take the second. LOL With the hopes that 2nd and 3rd Freshenings will produce more.

A Mini- 
minis aare very different as you have generations that you are dealing with to get a mini that meets the mini  standard.
So for an F-1 generation... meaning first generation where you have the Standard breed doe bred to a Nigerian buck  you will have generally a small goat with pretty good lactation.
2nd generations and so on are for perfecting the standard for that mini. IOW I do mimi manchas... there are EARS on Nigies, yet Gopher ears on Lamanchas the face is also different.... 1st and often 2nd gens will give elf ears  and the faces may still be dished.

I like the f-1's the most because I find the milk to be the best. a 50/50 gives great butterfat! 

Mini's depending on generation... I will stick to first and 2nd gen will give 2 qts a day as FF and with consecutive freshenings will increase. A good Lamancha mini will give 3qts- 1gallon per day.
Small goat less feed great milk and productivity.

I know several mini breeders that have f-5 f-6's and they produce well over 1 gallon a day... BUT the goats are larger.... 

We want our minis to actually remain mini... as some go further into f-6 generation etc those minis may not stay so mini. LOL
Basically it is breeding all the Nigie out except size to get the miniature version of the standard breed. 

With mini's like with any others starting out with good stock is important.

Minis production and output will be dependent on the breed. I imagine a Mini Sanaan can give ALOT of milk as Standard Sanaans generally give 2 gallons a day.

Standards-
Depends also on the breed! 
One of our lamancha does dam gives 16lbs (2 gallons) day. She is on the DHIR program... the breeder that we have gotten several of our lamanchas from has always done LA and DHIR. She no longer shows.

Our standard lamnchas are young and are giving 1 gallon per day... they should increase some next freshening.

Our Nubian gives 1 1/2 gallons a day... she is a larger goat. We bred her for mini's (not our focus though) and we will moniter her mini does production once she kids.

Lamanchas generally don't produce as much as a Sanaan and Alpines usually are also on the higher end. BUT BUT BUT much depends on stock.

Some show for udder confirmation only but are not doing milk production testing. Sometimes this means beautiful gorgeous udder but might not be a top producer. Sometimes goats can have a meaty udder and look gorgeous but production suffers. 

*I LOVE ALL 3!*  All have their benefits!

Our nigies are also our fill in goats! I mean that in a great way not in a disparaging way. If you have a goat have aproblem or you need to pitch milk for a week or a goat gets mastitis and you lose her production for awhile the Nigies can save the day!

We like having the ability to breed year round with the Nigies and always have someone in milk. Seasonal breeding can kinda stink especially if you miss a window of opportunity.

Most people hat have never had small goats do have a hard time wrapping their head around going to a small goat. There was I time I thought I'd never want a bunch of big goats. LOL

Maybe you should get all 3... Standard, mini, dwarf.

You will be well rounded!


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## OneFineAcre (May 11, 2015)

This is from the MDGA website;

*How Much do Miniature Dairy Goats Milk?*

Miniature dairy goats have been reported to produce anywhere from 2 lbs. a day (1 quart) to 10 lbs. a day (one and a quarter gallons) with the average around 5-6 lbs. (3 quarts) of milk daily. Genetics and management will play an important part in milk production.

http://miniaturedairygoats.net/about_minis_page.html


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## Southern by choice (May 11, 2015)

Yes there is a range however I do not know of any mini breeders that have mini's producing 1 qt a day they would be culls. Again it would depend on the breed and freshening... but never seen a FF producing only 1 qt. 

Kinda like with the Nigies. I can't stand it when some one says they don't give a lot of milk and then you have the extreme of some saying that the norm is 1/2 gallon a day.

Most places I read say nigies give an average of a quart a day but you and I know that there are many Nigies that give well and above that.


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## goatgurl (May 11, 2015)

while the others discuss the pro's and con's of different breeds i want to go back to the importance of where and how you set your barn.  i live on the Oklahoma/Arkansas border and almost all of our bad storms come from the west or southwest so the wide door to my barn opens to the southeast.  that keeps the hard driving rains and snow out of where the does bed down.  i don't use sleeping platforms for the girls simply because i am afraid that copperheads would use the underside of the platforms for their beds.  the barn sits up just a little so the water drains away from instead of into the barn.  there are large trees over it for shade.  you know how hot it gets here in the summertime.  i started using the deep litter method when i lived in w.va. it got pretty cold there and it worked well for me and i have continued using it here, just easier for me.  i usually leave it in place for a couple of years and then put it all on the garden.  in the summer i use fly predators to keep the fly population down.  if i had a barn that had a solid floor i probably wouldn't but with a dirt floor it drains well and works for me.  you will have to do a trial and error thing and see what works for you.


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## babsbag (May 11, 2015)

@Bossroo  I don't usually participate in money losing ventures so I am not too worried about my Nigi purchase. This is the way it works, I have to have my dairy goats freshen; I don't show my goats so no one is going to come looking for my goats on name alone; I will have 30-50 kids born here every year and many people like small animals of any kind, not just ones that produce milk; there are many many pet goats where I live. The minis are a rage right now and it may or may not stick around, and mini Alpines are not that common, what is what I will have. All I have invested in this is the purchase of one buckling which was really a trade so I have nothing to lose and I can bet that a teeny little Alpine will be easier to sell than a standard. I have a few Alpines I will breed to my standard buck with the intent of keeping any doelings but the majority of the does are having kids because that is what they have to do to make milk. I would be crazy to not try and ride this wave and I see no possible way that is will be a losing venture.


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## annabelle333 (May 11, 2015)

I like the idea of trying all three!  I will start with two Nigies first though...we are a small family and don't need a lot of milk...


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## annabelle333 (May 11, 2015)

goatgurl said:


> while the others discuss the pro's and con's of different breeds i want to go back to the importance of where and how you set your barn.  i live on the Oklahoma/Arkansas border and almost all of our bad storms come from the west or southwest so the wide door to my barn opens to the southeast.  that keeps the hard driving rains and snow out of where the does bed down.  i don't use sleeping platforms for the girls simply because i am afraid that copperheads would use the underside of the platforms for their beds.  the barn sits up just a little so the water drains away from instead of into the barn.  there are large trees over it for shade.  you know how hot it gets here in the summertime.  i started using the deep litter method when i lived in w.va. it got pretty cold there and it worked well for me and i have continued using it here, just easier for me.  i usually leave it in place for a couple of years and then put it all on the garden.  in the summer i use fly predators to keep the fly population down.  if i had a barn that had a solid floor i probably wouldn't but with a dirt floor it drains well and works for me.  you will have to do a trial and error thing and see what works for you.



Thanks goatgurl- that is all good practical advice for the location and I had never thought about the snakes underneath...all good things to consider!!!


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## Ridgetop (May 12, 2015)

Babsbag: You are looking at it from the right perspective.  You haven't invested a lot in a bunch of "trendy" goat does hoping to make money.  The kids from your ND buck will be for sale which means you are reaping the benefits of your milking does output in the dairy.  Don't forget that each standard dairy kid needs 2 qts day of either milk or replacer till weaned, while you will probably be feeding your ND x's a lot less.  Milk = money in a dairy and bucklings are considered trash in a dairy SO if you can sell your ND x wethers as pets for more than bucklings bring for meat at the auction, you have just increased your profit line.  Win- win for you, since if it doesn't pan out you can sell the ND buck and you haven't lost his purchase price -he was a trade!If or when minis or ND x's are no longer popular as pets you have not invested anything and your dairy is still flourishing.
Good thinking Babsbag - excellent business idea.


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## Bossroo (May 12, 2015)

OneFineAcre said:


> One day you are an expert on sheep, the next day cattle, the next rabbits and then horses.
> 
> Seems one time your necropsied a killer whale didn't you?
> 
> ...


 
Master of none?[/QUOTE]Why  thank you acre !  The jack of all trades credit goes to almost 3/4 of a century years of experience of FOR PROFIT farming and the IRS  rules and regulations stating that one has to make a profit in 2 out of 4 years of doing business, or be considered a  hobby therefore expenses can not be deducted.  Since I can't afford an expensive farming hobby, I choose to make a profit and hopefully help others in areas that they may not even have considered.  Oh yea, yes  I did necropsy a killer whale.


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## OneFineAcre (May 12, 2015)

You forgot that.


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## OneFineAcre (May 12, 2015)

@Bossroo

So you say. You can be anything you want on the internet.

Then you are old enough to remember what a nattering naybob of negativity is then?
Bet you never thought you turn out to be one did you?

Have you ever posted a positive comment on this forum?  You seem to take great pleasure in criticizing what others are doing.

And also, what you said about Nigerians is incorrect.  While we are a hobby we actually do pretty well with ours.

Is that the source of your bitterness?  That you were not successful enough in life to afford a hobby farm like many on this forum?

Maybe your friends just didn't know what they were doing?  Or maybe they just listened to you to much.


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## goatgurl (May 12, 2015)

@Bossroo and @OneFineAcre at the risk of sticking my nose in and getting it snapped off do you two really have to keep sniping at each other on a public forum?  annabelle333 is just trying to get some question answered.


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## OneFineAcre (May 12, 2015)

goatgurl said:


> @Bossroo and @OneFineAcre at the risk of sticking my nose in and getting it snapped off do you two really have to keep sniping at each other on a public forum?  annabelle333 is just trying to get some question answered.



You're right.
I normally ignore Bossroo's negative comments and I shouldn't have gone there this time.
My apologies to everyone.


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## annabelle333 (May 12, 2015)

Thank you goatgurl...I understand that there will be disagreements when so many people are involved on a forum.  One Fine Acre has given me invaluable advice and I really appreciate all of the positive info on here.  I am looking to goats for family enjoyment and some milk for our personal consumption.  I am not looking to make a bunch of money and I am just excited to have "pets with a purpose".  I can look past the bickering to get to all the gems you all have provided!


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## OneFineAcre (May 12, 2015)

annabelle333 said:


> Thank you goatgurl...I understand that there will be disagreements when so many people are involved on a forum.  One Fine Acre has given me invaluable advice and I really appreciate all of the positive info on here.  I am looking to goats for family enjoyment and some milk for our personal consumption.  I am not looking to make a bunch of money and I am just excited to have "pets with a purpose".  I can look past the bickering to get to all the gems you all have provided!



annabelle,
I hope I have helped, and not caused any harm.
I try to welcome every new member to the forum if they post on new member introductions with a big "Welcome from North Carolina".
Every time someone puts pics of their new babies, I congratulate them.
If someone builds a new barn, I say good job.
If someone has new puppies, I say "nice pups"
If someone says they are interested in Nigerians, I can personally say they are great goats to own.
If they said they wanted another kind of goat, I wouldn't try to talk them into getting Nigerians.
I think everyone should own some goats.
I hope you find the right goats for you because it would be a real shame if you didn't get you some goats.


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## Ridgetop (May 12, 2015)

So . . . Goatgurl is absolutely right about considering the prevailing winds in your area.  If you live in a hot area you might want to be on a hilltop where the breeze will cool the barn down.  If you get freezing winters, an unsheltered hilltop will be a wind tunnel in the winter.  I'm in southern California and my barn had an eastern exposure.  I don't know if that is why, but our goats cycled earlier than anyone else's goats around and we always had early January kids.  I am talking standard dairy goats which have a set cycle.  We had Nubians which have a longer cycle, but also LaManchas and always had January LaManchas too.  I know some people with extreme winters don't breed for January or February kids because of the weather.  We are lucky to have mild winters except for our 7 year flood cycles, and I like January kids because of fewer flies. 

Back to the barn . . . check your year round weather, shade, sun and wind exposure, etc., because once the barn is up it is there and you are not going to be willing to move it.  And if your husband is like mine he will not be happy about having to renovate a brand new expensive barn structure!  LOL  Doing your homework now will be worth all the effort you put into it.  You can use wooden pegs and string or caution tape to mark out the size and location of the barn then check it at different times of the day for exposure.  Also remember when putting it in, to run a water line to the barn so you don't have to drag a hose or haul buckets very far.  It is surprising what we forget about when planning our first structures.  Make a "wish list" for your dream barn, don't forget storage for all the items that you don't want to have to drag back and forth from the house.  Used cabinets from Habitat for Humanity or garage sales can be installed in your barn (screw them in - don't nail them) for storage for kidding supplies, collars, tie chains, feed, buckets, the stanchion, hoof trimmers and regular animal clippers.  If you have a breed that has a heavy winter coat you will want to shave off some of the hair before she kids, its easier before it is all bloody and mucky when you go to milk.  Think about where you want to milk in the barn or if you want a separate milk shed, how much light you will need, etc.  Then once you have had the fun of making up your dream barn list, you can remove those non-essential items you can't afford yet.  The more you plan it out, the more efficient and useful it will be and the longer you will be able to use it. 

Don't forget to plan your outside areas too.  If you will be keeping a buck put them downwind and give them their own little house.  You don't want their smell to taint the milk.  You will also need a pen for the kids.  Even if you plan to leave them on their moms, you will have to separate them for at least 12 hours if you want any milk from the does.  I prefer to remove the kids and bottle feed them since a bottle kid is so lovable.  Also you avoid CAE by heat treating and pasteurizing your kids.  Testing for CAE is also a necessity, but goats can contract it from exposure to carriers so if you are taking your goats to shows or to be bred, there is a chance they can get it.  It happened to us with a doe we took to a breeder.  If we didn't blood test we wouldn't have caught it.  So you will need a loafing yard for milkers, one for kids, and a separate yard and building area for bucks if you plan to keep any. Since you wioll be starting small, you don't need to worry about the buck housing for a couple years.

Our first stanchion was under a tree in the yard.  The view was beautiful but when the first bad rains came open air milking lost its charm fast!  Our second milking area was in a concrete building which we shared with the haystack.  Other than the stanchions being in the way when we put the hay in the barn, it worked for quite a while until we outgrew our double milk stanchion and needed a 4 goat stanchion.  Our final milking area was in the big barn where we had electricity and could hook up the mik machine.  You may never need an electric milking machine, but it doesn't hurt to dream!

You are going to have so much fun with your new goats!  It makes me want to get a couple of milkers again!


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## annabelle333 (May 12, 2015)

OneFineAcre said:


> annabelle,
> I hope I have helped, and not caused any harm.
> I try to welcome every new member to the forum if they post on new member introductions with a big "Welcome from North Carolina".
> Every time someone puts pics of their new babies, I congratulate them.
> ...


You have helped a lot OneFineAcre!  Your information has been spot on and I really appreciate all of your experience.  I will find my goats and can't wait to post all about them when I do.  I have posted a lot of questions on here and have been amazed by all of the friendly people and wonderful knowledge- you are top of the list!  I am not deterred by a squabble...-  You were defending your loves...


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## annabelle333 (May 12, 2015)

Ridgetop said:


> So . . . Goatgurl is absolutely right about considering the prevailing winds in your area.  If you live in a hot area you might want to be on a hilltop where the breeze will cool the barn down.  If you get freezing winters, an unsheltered hilltop will be a wind tunnel in the winter.  I'm in southern California and my barn had an eastern exposure.  I don't know if that is why, but our goats cycled earlier than anyone else's goats around and we always had early January kids.  I am talking standard dairy goats which have a set cycle.  We had Nubians which have a longer cycle, but also LaManchas and always had January LaManchas too.  I know some people with extreme winters don't breed for January or February kids because of the weather.  We are lucky to have mild winters except for our 7 year flood cycles, and I like January kids because of fewer flies.
> 
> Back to the barn . . . check your year round weather, shade, sun and wind exposure, etc., because once the barn is up it is there and you are not going to be willing to move it.  And if your husband is like mine he will not be happy about having to renovate a brand new expensive barn structure!  LOL  Doing your homework now will be worth all the effort you put into it.  You can use wooden pegs and string or caution tape to mark out the size and location of the barn then check it at different times of the day for exposure.  Also remember when putting it in, to run a water line to the barn so you don't have to drag a hose or haul buckets very far.  It is surprising what we forget about when planning our first structures.  Make a "wish list" for your dream barn, don't forget storage for all the items that you don't want to have to drag back and forth from the house.  Used cabinets from Habitat for Humanity or garage sales can be installed in your barn (screw them in - don't nail them) for storage for kidding supplies, collars, tie chains, feed, buckets, the stanchion, hoof trimmers and regular animal clippers.  If you have a breed that has a heavy winter coat you will want to shave off some of the hair before she kids, its easier before it is all bloody and mucky when you go to milk.  Think about where you want to milk in the barn or if you want a separate milk shed, how much light you will need, etc.  Then once you have had the fun of making up your dream barn list, you can remove those non-essential items you can't afford yet.  The more you plan it out, the more efficient and useful it will be and the longer you will be able to use it.
> 
> ...


Again... great info!  I will test out several areas before making the final plans.  I am going to a show at the end of this month and am going to visit several farms.  We are working on fence right now and slowly will get our barn up so I have some time to really think about what I want/need/can afford.  There is no way I would have thought of all of this on my own without any experience.  Thanks!!!!


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## Southern by choice (May 12, 2015)

So glad you have a better sense of direction!


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## babsbag (May 13, 2015)

Just remember that we are goat addicts, one and all.   Goats can multiply quickly so plan big and build bigger.


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## Latestarter (Jul 12, 2015)

So it's now been about 2 months... Could we have  pictures... ummm I mean STATUS report please?


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## fiddlergina (Jul 15, 2015)

I'm new to this forum and I have a question. Forgive me if this has already been addressed. I moved to a new location where I have close neighbors who have milking does. I never worried, at my old location about keeping a buck in close proximity to my own does, but my neighbor is concerned about tainting her milk. The pen where my buck would be housed is about an acre or so away from their home and has trees in that acre between. He is a very gentle mini Lamancha. Do you think there will be a problem with his scent tainting her milk from that distance?


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## OneFineAcre (Jul 15, 2015)

fiddlergina said:


> I'm new to this forum and I have a question. Forgive me if this has already been addressed. I moved to a new location where I have close neighbors who have milking does. I never worried, at my old location about keeping a buck in close proximity to my own does, but my neighbor is concerned about tainting her milk. The pen where my buck would be housed is about an acre or so away from their home and has trees in that acre between. He is a very gentle mini Lamancha. Do you think there will be a problem with his scent tainting her milk from that distance?



No.
I think there is no problem there.


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## fiddlergina (Jul 15, 2015)

Thank you for your response.


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## frustratedearthmother (Jul 15, 2015)

I second OFA's opinion.  My bucks and milking does share a fenceline and there's no problem with the milk.


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## fiddlergina (Jul 17, 2015)

Thank you for your responses. I will be putting up fencing for him today and moving him there later this weekend. I can't wait to have him here since he is such a sweetie.....


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