# Raising Rabbits for meat "Rank Beginner"



## lucas323 (Apr 11, 2013)

I have recently decided to raise rabbits for meat. Not to sell but, strictly as a way to have an organic meat source. Problem is that many of the threads and forums I have read are of people running larger operations (perhaps that is needed?). What would be the minimum space required to raise rabbits for a family of 5? Right now we eat about 20-30 lbs of meat weekly . Would the size I am looking for be cost effective? I can provide pictures of the space available if it would help.

Thanks.


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## animalmom (Apr 12, 2013)

Welcome to the world of rabbit raising!  We raise California/New Zealand crosses for our own meat and have been doing this since 2008.  We started out with three does and two bucks, all unrelated.  Last year we added AlTex, but are breeding them separate from the Cali/NZs.

We found that with three does producing 3-4 litters each per year (we are in North Central Texas and we don't breed once the weather stays over 80) that that was more meat than just the two of us could eat each year so last year we went down to one breeding couple of Cali/NZ.  This year we've bumped it back up to two breeding couples.

Originally our rabbit barn (three sided with the front open) was set up with 5 cages that we hung from the rafters.  We used trays under the cages.  This set up worked just fine for us, although I wished we had a grow out pen so I could rebreed sooner and get 4-5  litter per doe per year.  We found out that a grow out pen wasn't really needed for us... you would probably want a grow out pen so you can rebreed sooner.  Without the grow out pen I was not rebreeding until the kits got to be 10 weeks old.

You mention your family uses up to 30 pounds of meat per week.  I am presuming your plan is to augment this with rabbit meat.  Fab plan by the way.  I should think that starting out with three does and two bucks (for a nice genetic pool) would do your family well.  If you find you want more meat in the freezer then you just keep a good looking doe from one of the litters and slowly add to your group as you need.

I  like 30X36 inch cages, 18" tall for the does and their kits.  Holds a nest box nicely with plenty of room while still giving you access to the far corners.  I like 24X30X18 for the bucks.  If you go the route of a grow out pen then the does could go in a smaller cage.  You would put the weaned kits in the grow out pen until they are the size you want.

If you are going to build your rabbit barn from scratch my best advise to you is make it larger and taller than you think you need... figure how you want to put the cages (single row or double stacked) and include room for feed, supplies and air flow.  Depending on where you live you  may need to add air flow during the summer.  We use a barn fan that is set to come on at 80 and also have a misting system that we use when the temp gets higher.  The misting system is set up at the front of the rabbit barn and the mist does not get to the rabbits.  They are not fans of being damp.

If you can build your set-up under some tall trees, for shade, that would be a big help if you live in a hot climate.  Rabbit need light, but heat will kill them.  Our biggest mistake was not considering where the author of the book we read actually lived.  The author lives in Vermont which has a different climate than Texas.  The author stressed putting your rabbits where they can get light so we built the barn out in the open and had a roof of that translucent paneling.  Big mistake.  We have since put a steel roof on the barn to reflect heat and really wish that we had put the barn under the trees.  

I hope this helps... rabbit raising is a fun activity that can easily include all family members.  I strongly suggest you look into membership to the  American Rabbit Breeders Association.   The dues are not expensive, and the ARBA produces a magazine every other month that has some great articles.  In the issue before the last one was directions on how to do inline waters for your rabbitry.  ARBA.net

Good luck!


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## Citylife (Apr 15, 2013)

Animalmom brings up some great points.
I have NZ's and CA's and the only difference is I use 36"x36" cages for my Sr. Does.  I have several that will have 10-12 babies and I feel they need the extra room.
It does help to know what state your in so we can help you more.  Heat as animalmom said is a killer of rabbits.  So, figuring out how to keep them comfortable in the summer is a must.  I think 3 does and 2 bucks is a great start for you to see exactly how much meat your using and if you need to increase your number of does.  Grow out pens are very very nice to have.  I also use 36x36 for the large litters and have a few smaller cages if I have a smaller litter. And as stated before, have more space then you think you need.  Many of us have pictures of our set-ups on our pages, so you can check those for ideas.
Welcome to this wonderful forum.


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## brentr (Apr 15, 2013)

Here's some additional info to calculate your needs.  We are a family of six.  

I butcher my rabbits at 5.5 lbs+ live weight; I like to have a 3 lb dressed carcass.  Some folks butcher at a lighter weight, some heavier.  It is a matter of personal preference.  On average my rabbits are 11-12 weeks old at butchering.

When we butcher we cut and wrap like parts - package of legs, package of loins, etc.  My wife prefers this to just having a whole rabbit.  Often what we do is freeze the hind quarters and loins, and then we put the ribs/shoulders into the crockpot to cook, then we de-bone that and put it into the freezer.  My wife likes to use pre-cooked rabbit in casseroles, soups, enchiladas (my favorite ) etc.

I butchered eight rabbits this past Saturday, and ended up with two packages of 8 legs, one package of loins, and three 1 lb packages of pre-cooked rabbit meat to put in the freezer.  For my family, that is a total of six meals plus leftovers for me to take in my lunch for work at least once (sometimes twice) after each meal.

I have three does & two bucks.  As others mentioned, I don't breed during summers due to heat.  In fact my last litters born (just last week) are likely the last until fall.  I"ll start breeding about Labor Day.  From fall onward, I try to breed on a 14 day re-breed interval.  I get litters about every six weeks.  One doe needs  little extra time between litters, but the other two are champs - they don't lose any condition at all.  So roughly speaking, I have +/-24 rabbits to butcher every six weeks.  I do sell some breeding stock, so the number is a little lower, depending on how well they sell at any given time.

The only really limit to your production is how hard you want to push your does, how much you are willing to spend on feed, and grow out cage space.

A bit rambly response, but hopefully it gives you some additional info to consider.


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## GLENMAR (Apr 15, 2013)

brentr said:
			
		

> Here's some additional info to calculate your needs.  We are a family of six.
> 
> I butcher my rabbits at 5.5 lbs+ live weight; I like to have a 3 lb dressed carcass.  Some folks butcher at a lighter weight, some heavier.  It is a matter of personal preference.  On average my rabbits are 11-12 weeks old at butchering.
> 
> ...


That sounds great. My first ones are due this week. I am so excited. I love the idea if pre-cooking the ribs and shoulders. Rabbit enchiladas sounds wonderful.


ETA: I see you are not far from me. When can I come over for dinner.


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## brentr (Apr 16, 2013)

GLENMAR said:
			
		

> ETA: I see you are not far from me. When can I come over for dinner.


Anytime.  Just bring a pair of American Blues with you that can stay behind when you leave!


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## GLENMAR (Apr 16, 2013)




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## treeclimber233 (Apr 16, 2013)

The best light for your rabbits is morning sunshine.  Then as the sun rises higher trees blocking the direct rays is great.  I originally had my rabbits in a long row that had a wooden roof and back with the open front facing east.  That way they got morning sun and shade the rest of the day.  They were housed in wire cages hung from the frame of the roof that was about shoulder high to me.  In the winter I hung tarps or heavy plastic on the front that could be moved (rolled up and placed on the top) on good days and rehung during bad weather.  That way they got plenty of air movement, sun and shade.    Then I moved to another location and put them under a roof with only indirect light and they did not produce nearly as well.  Then I ran electricity to the barn and put light bulbs on a timer and still not as good as natural light.  I eventually went out of business because the rabbits would not breed very well.  Good luck to you in your new venture.


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## lucas323 (Apr 18, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. I am located in southern California. Is it necessary for the rabbits to get sunlight? I was planning on having the hutches outside in a side aisle next to my garage. It has shade 24 hours a day and will protect from wind/cold.


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## brentr (Apr 19, 2013)

lucas323 said:
			
		

> Thanks for the replies. I am located in southern California. Is it necessary for the rabbits to get sunlight? I was planning on having the hutches outside in a side aisle next to my garage. It has shade 24 hours a day and will protect from wind/cold.


Rabbits don't NEED direct sunlight.  What you describe for your location should be fine.


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## Catalaya's Rabbitry (Dec 13, 2013)

There is a good article on wether or not raising rabbits is cost effective or not and it breaks down for you how many pounds of meat a doe can produce each year.

http://catalayarabbitry.weebly.com/1/post/2013/12/is-raising-rabbits-for-meat-cost-effective.html


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