# I'm considering buying a buck....any advice?



## freemotion (Jun 14, 2009)

I am going to call and go look at some 3-4 month old kids this week.  They are a nice mix of breeds I like, and I prefer mixed breeds.  It is very difficult to get a buck here in the 'burbs.  The better farms keep a closed farm, and the ones that answered my cl ad last year....well.....hmmmm....

It will also cost about the same to breed her as to buy a buckling.  I can also sell him if it is too much trouble to keep him year-round, I'm thinking. 

I plan to ask to see the sire and dam if possible, and ask about milking records for the dam.  We are not talking about a professional goat dairy here, so I'm not sure what I will see.

I also have a doeling who will be bred next year.  Then in a couple of years I will need another buck if I keep any doelings!  Yeesh!  My head is spinning!


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## Rence (Jun 14, 2009)

I keep two bucks, so that I can rotate does and offspring and reduce the likelihood of interbreeding. Plus, a lone buck is a lonely buck and more likely to get himself in trouble.  

I wasn't too interested in pedigree either but I'm finding that the milking pedigree makes a difference in quantity of milk production. However, your mixed breeds are probably better than registered purebred of mediocre pedigree. In addition, remember that you breed up with your buck (not your does), so in effect, he's half your whole herd. 

One of my bucks has a milking pedigree (his grand dam on both sides have a bit).  But my other buckling is very well bred and his dam, grand dam on both sides are milking champions. His mother is a permanent champion and was chosen the best of her breed.  Until I got him, I was going to buy a buck, use him for the breeding season, and then sell him. But I like my bucks, so I guess I'll be keeping them. If anything, the first one mentioned above will be the first to go.

But you can always buy a buck for the season and sell him later. My only advice to you is if you do buy a buck and you're interested in good milking, see the dam or siblings in milk. If they're not available, ask to see the pedigree. If they're not willing to show it to you, don't bother. A breeder should never be worried about showing you the goat's papers.

If you can't find one locally, maybe you can do it via long distance and either have it shipped or go get it? There are some places I'd buy without even seeing. I bought that second buck  by pedigree and picture, and sent someone to go get him. I wasn't disappointed 

Is AI'ing a possibility for you?


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## pattyjean73 (Jun 14, 2009)

If you're only going to keep a few head of goats, just least a buck when it's time to breed.  It may cost close to the same but you won't have a year's worth of feeding him and cleaning up after him.  Plus you'd never have to worry about line-breeding to closely.


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## freemotion (Jun 14, 2009)

My problem here is the lack of availability of bucks, and goats in general.  I live in a very suburban area, surrounded by urban areas.  Everything is EXPENSIVE!!!!  But I happen to have a couple of acres of pasture and maybe an acre of woods, so feeding is not a year-round issue.

I am not looking for high milk production, more of a steady supply, three-four quarts a day is wonderful.  

The people who care for their goats the way I do keep a closed farm, and I don't blame them.  Hoof and mouth disease showed up on one ladies' farm after a 4-H event she hosted.  She got it, too, and months later is still very sick.  Scared me silly into thinking about having a closed farmlet myself.  Hence the buckling search.


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## bheila (Jun 14, 2009)

If your worried about having a closed farm yourself then are you going to be buying a buck that's been tested? Just a thought  

I bought all of my goats not tested and I just pulled all of their blood myself last month, thankfully they all came back negative.  I will now only buy goats that have been tested and come back negative at least twice.  I learned a very hard lesson from a friends hardship and CL last month.  

It's so much easier for me to lease a buck here.  I can actually buy one for $50 but then I have to worry about selling him.


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## Rence (Jun 14, 2009)

Freemotion, you're not alone. There are many goats here that I would love to lease, but like you, I'm encountering closed herds. They're for sale only.

I don't blame them. I don't lease out my bucks either and someone asked if they could bring a doe here and have my buck breed her and I said no.  I've really spent a lot of time, money and effort to try and keep my goats healthy.  When I bought that new buck, he was segregated for two months. He came from a herd that is checked yearly. I didn't ask for documentation though...in this case I trusted the reputation of the breeder and didn't even think to ask. I suppose I should have.


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## alba (Jun 14, 2009)

These are reasons why I want to freeze some of my buck's sperm before he is wethered. This way if later I decide to keep only does, I will have a supply of sperm in the freezer for whenever I need it.  And I would know who it came from.

I enjoy having my boys around though. The Nigerian boys are very gentle and playful. Maybe even more personable than my does.  If I am not mistaken they are fertile all year round so I don't think they exactly have a rut period.


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## freemotion (Jun 14, 2009)

alba, have you found info on freezing goat semen?  When I was in the horse world, freezing semen was an expensive proposition.  Collection must be done by experienced people with correct collecting equipment, the collection has to be centrifuged and separated for freezing, and freezing is a science in itself.  Storage costs money, too, and must be done properly for the sperm to be viable.  Even so, some viability is lost and there is a limited "shelf life," but I have no clue as to how fragile goat semen is compared to bulls or stallions.


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## alba (Jun 14, 2009)

thanks  :/


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## freemotion (Jun 14, 2009)

Sorry......wish it were "icecube trays and a turkey baster!"


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