# Handling rabbits Do's and Don'ts!



## Livestock lover (Jun 4, 2013)

I couldn't find where to make an article (I think it is my computer acting up) so I guess I will just post here.

I know that a lot of people on Backyard Herds have rabbits so I decided I would try to help you rabbit lovers out a bit. When you handle a rabbit always be gentle, rabbits are very sensitive so be careful. Also, you should always support their back legs. If their back legs are not supported they can have leg problems. Never let them jump out of your hands. From two feet they may just run away but internally they could have broken bones! If you ever here a rabbit making weird noises then he is probably in pain because rabbits rarely make any sounds at all. 
Feel free to add on to this!


----------



## secuono (Jun 5, 2013)

Common sense covers this for the most part. But there are a lot of ways to hold a rabbit depending on size and temperament. 

Two feet won't break bones, unless they are raised with poor nutrition or genetically bone weak. Rabbits can jump 5ft into the air, they run and jump off of huge rocks, creeks, etc in the wild. If they are very young and dropped from 4ft on concrete or stone, then yes, it's very possible. But they aren't frail little things in general. 

You don't want to ever grab them by the neck or use a 'cat claw' to catch them, rabbits flail like crazy and easily can badly bruise or crack neck bones. 

Can't think of anything else yet.


----------



## Livestock lover (Jun 5, 2013)

I think domesticated rabbits are generally weaker boned and more prone to injury then wild rabbits.


----------



## secuono (Jun 5, 2013)

There are a lot of different breeds of rabbits, I'd think the dwarf and mini rabbits would be more iffy. But at the same time, it would be easy for a giant breed rabbit to end up having weak bones. Either way, don't go tossing or dropping any living things.


----------



## Livestock lover (Jun 5, 2013)

secuono said:
			
		

> There are a lot of different breeds of rabbits, I'd think the dwarf and mini rabbits would be more iffy. But at the same time, it would be easy for a giant breed rabbit to end up having weak bones. Either way, don't go tossing or dropping any living things.


x2


----------



## Petty (Mar 30, 2014)

I agree with you. I see some people lifting rabbits only by the ear. That also is wrong.


----------



## HollandHops (Jan 25, 2015)

Can we get more tips?


----------



## Bunnylady (Jan 26, 2015)

Rabbits that are scared or uncomfortable will kick, violently! They can kick hard enough to break their own backs, which is why you want to make sure the hind limbs are supported/restrained. Also, they can really lacerate you with their claws when they kick. 

Some people will pick a rabbit up by the "scruff," and quickly get a hand under the rabbit's rump to support it. I prefer to get under the rabbit and scoop it up (of course, I am working mostly with small breeds). When carrying a rabbit, it's best to keep it supported/cradled so it doesn't feel vulnerable and start struggling - that's when people get scratched and rabbits get dropped. If the rabbit does start to struggle, you need to wrap yourself around the rabbit (something you have to learn to do; the instinct is to react like 'get this crazy thing away from me!' which makes it more likely the rabbit could get dropped). Getting a hand on the belly right in front of the hind legs can prevent the rabbit from kicking, or at least reaching you with a kick. Having the rabbit's back against your chest and the feet facing out while the rabbit blows up protects you both to some degree. 

Being carried like a baby, cradled in the crook of your arm with the feet pointed up, is calming for most rabbits. 

The time when most people get scratched is usually when the rabbit is being put back in its cage. Often, the rabbit will see the cage and "anticipate" going back in. Carrying the rabbit on its back can make putting the rabbit back in smoother, if you can flip the rabbit onto its feet just as you put it through the door. With practice, you can get your hands and arms out of the way before rabbit even has time to realize it's going back and start wiggling. Another trick is to carry the rabbit feet side down, but with its head in the crook of your arm (football carry) with its eyes covered. Once again, you can move your arms away as the rabbit's feet touch the cage floor, and it is in the cage before it gets a chance to get excited.


----------



## Hens and Roos (Jan 26, 2015)

We have a radio on where our rabbits are living- we find this helps them get use to noise and reduces the amount of freaking out they do when we come by their cages either to feed or take them out.

We like to use the football hold to carry the rabbits-anytime you can make the rabbit feel secure the easier it is to carry them.


----------



## mygoldendoe (Nov 30, 2016)

I bought some meat rabbits, they are in a temporary community cage (my dads) until their individual ones are finished this weekend.. is there some advise on handling for someone whose afraid of rabbits? I was bit as a child by someones pet and never wanted near them since. But we need the meat. Iv tried getting over this fear by petting the ones that come to me and stand on my arm as I clean, they tolerate it before hopping off but today when I went to feed them I wasn't close to this one by side the one I petted (I thought) and it lunged at my hand. I admit I'm afraid to feed them after that..I dunno how old they are or how they were handled or housed and was told the "momma" of the group but it's humping the others...only one is obviously a male the other three look female..


----------



## Hens and Roos (Dec 1, 2016)

maybe a pair of gloves would help.  In our experience it seems that the rabbit is trying to get you to back out of their area.  When we handle and carry rabbits we like to tuck their head under our arm(like a football hold) it seems to help them stay calmer.

you should probably separate out the male so you don't have more litters then you are ready for at this point.  The humping behavior is probably a show of dominance.


----------



## mygoldendoe (Dec 1, 2016)

Yeah I'm working on their hutch, they'll be seperated but on the same platform.. the whole thing should be complete this weekend. I don't mind them having babies right off. My husband is used to the whole thing but he works so I'm in charge of them during that time. he thinks I'm a scary cat lol. I did wear long sleeves during this morning's feeding. It made me feel lil better so I'll definitely try out gloves when i check on there water in few hours. only 2 will use the water bottle. The all prefer the hummingbird type feeder water set up
The one that lunged last time came & stood in front of the door and made weird noise so I waited til she was distracted by food to finish cleaning. The wood&wire travel cage I bought them in is too small to displace one until this weekend (at least i know I wouldn't want to be in it for two days if I were a bunny)


----------



## Bunnylady (Dec 1, 2016)

@mygoldendoe - to a rabbit person, the scenario you are describing sounds most like a dominant doe (you were told it's the mother of the others, so it fits) that may very well be pregnant. Any rabbit can be territorial about its cage, but does seem more prone to it, and even a normally easygoing doe can get grumpy when pregnant. I don't blame you for not wanting to get bitten; I have a scar on my wrist from a rabbit bite that happened more than 15 years ago - those teeth are sharp, and some of 'em don't play around!

Rabbits have a 'pecking order,' and this rabbit thinks she outranks you. Rabbits can growl when threatening; I'm betting this animal was standing up with her head up and maybe ears laid back - that's rabbit body language for "If you don't get out of my space, you're gonna get it!" Height is dominance; crouching low is submission. If you are putting your hands low in the cage, or approaching her from a lower position, she thinks she's "higher" than you. If you have to put your hands in this dragon rabbit's cage, come in as high as you can, and don't move away if she comes at you. Put your hand on top of her (if you can do it without getting bitten!) and hold her down and away from you as you do what you need to in the cage. As I said, she may be pregnant, so she may have an excuse for being nasty, but I don't put up with rabbits that are just cranky by nature. A certain amount of personality is inheritable, and I find dealing with such animals too unpleasant to want to risk creating more of them.


----------



## mygoldendoe (Dec 1, 2016)

Bunnylady said:


> @mygoldendoe - to a rabbit person, the scenario you are describing sounds most like a dominant doe (you were told it's the mother of the others, so it fits) that may very well be pregnant. Any rabbit can be territorial about its cage, but does seem more prone to it, and even a normally easygoing doe can get grumpy when pregnant. I don't blame you for not wanting to get bitten; I have a scar on my wrist from a rabbit bite that happened more than 15 years ago - those teeth are sharp, and some of 'em don't play around!
> 
> Rabbits have a 'pecking order,' and this rabbit thinks she outranks you. Rabbits can growl when threatening; I'm betting this animal was standing up with her head up and maybe ears laid back - that's rabbit body language for "If you don't get out of my space, you're gonna get it!" Height is dominance; crouching low is submission. If you are putting your hands low in the cage, or approaching her from a lower position, she thinks she's "higher" than you. If you have to put your hands in this dragon rabbit's cage, come in as high as you can, and don't move away if she comes at you. Put your hand on top of her (if you can do it without getting bitten!) and hold her down and away from you as you do what you need to in the cage. As I said, she may be pregnant, so she may have an excuse for being nasty, but I don't put up with rabbits that are just cranky by nature. A certain amount of personality is inheritable, and I find dealing with such animals too unpleasant to want to risk creating more of them.


Thank you so much for this information and technique! I will definitely apply it to try avoid another issue.


----------



## mysunwolf (Dec 1, 2016)

My neighbor wears kevlar sleeves that have thumb holes to handle her rabbits, and that makes for fewer places that they can bite and scratch while you're handling them. We have always culled rabbits that bite, even territorial moms, because I was so terrified of rabbits that bit.


----------



## I❤my Flemish Giant (Apr 27, 2017)

Bunnylady said:


> Rabbits that are scared or uncomfortable will kick, violently! They can kick hard enough to break their own backs, which is why you want to make sure the hind limbs are supported/restrained. Also, they can really lacerate you with their claws when they kick.
> 
> Some people will pick a rabbit up by the "scruff," and quickly get a hand under the rabbit's rump to support it. I prefer to get under the rabbit and scoop it up (of course, I am working mostly with small breeds). When carrying a rabbit, it's best to keep it supported/cradled so it doesn't feel vulnerable and start struggling - that's when people get scratched and rabbits get dropped. If the rabbit does start to struggle, you need to wrap yourself around the rabbit (something you have to learn to do; the instinct is to react like 'get this crazy thing away from me!' which makes it more likely the rabbit could get dropped). Getting a hand on the belly right in front of the hind legs can prevent the rabbit from kicking, or at least reaching you with a kick. Having the rabbit's back against your chest and the feet facing out while the rabbit blows up protects you both to some degree.
> 
> ...




Do you have any pointers on how to get rabbits out of their cages? Front opening cages..  thank you


----------



## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2017)

I❤my Flemish Giant said:


> Do you have any pointers on how to get rabbits out of their cages? Front opening cages..  thank you


I have found that grabbing the scruff of the neck and supporting their butts and pulling them out sideways or backwards has helped with French Lops. It seems the bigger they are, the harder it is to find a way THEY prefer and they all like things done certain ways.


----------



## mygoldendoe (Apr 27, 2017)

I❤my Flemish Giant said:


> Do you have any pointers on how to get rabbits out of their cages? Front opening cages..  thank you


I will say the scruff in one hand then holding ankles with other hand while their butts sit btwn that arm and my side works for my older ones. The ones I had commented on on page 1..I had got those meat mutts from unknown housing and handling as it was at a livestock outdoor market. It took a month for them to completely warm up to me and be tolerant of being held. Time and some "treats" (dandelion flowers and leaves by hand if picked long enough, wild violet flower and leaves) are your best friend. As for all their babies, they come running to the cage door for letting and love being held bc iv held them from day 1.
 However we got more since then. They are pure breed from breeders who showed their rabbits so they got handled a lot. They are the best temperament and will crawl out for you to hold them if you hold your hands out just right. Only took a week for them to adjust to me and i don't have to hold their back ankles hold like my mutts, just under belly by back legs with butt sit btwn arm and side. 
So practice different holds on them since I have to do different ones on individual ones.. and I think knowing background of their handling is important when considering new ones. Definitely makes cutting their nails easier when they tolerate/love being held. To me I already learned to avoid ones who answer the question of "how well do they handle nail trimming" with "I don't know I haven't tried it" even meat raisers want healthy happy rabbits and nail/teeth/ear checks/care is apart of that.


----------



## mygoldendoe (Apr 27, 2017)

Sorry for such quick crude drawing, just didn't want u to misunderstand what I ment by ankle hold. (Bc some ppl mean upside down by ankles.) That's not what I mean..See how hips are sit btwn my arm and side. That's the one they like best. Alot of times I don't even have to hold scruff after they relax. I move to support chest..


----------



## animalmom (Apr 27, 2017)

Good, CLEAR drawing!


----------

