# New to Rabbits



## ccheek (Apr 25, 2016)

Saturday we were given a very unexpected gift of two rabbits by a friend. We have raised pretty much everything under the sun.... except rabbits. They are both bucks, which we were told have been together for a while and get along good. They are set up in an old chicken coop right now, but we are planning to build them their own little hutch with separate "rooms" so they can have their space. These were also a gift to the lady that gave them to us so we don't know anything about them. They are as sweet as they can be, but definitely a little stressed from all the moving. Breed (probably a barnyard mix, but maybe at least a little something to go on)? Age? Can anyone help? P.S. My daughter has been begging for rabbits for some time now and is definitely going to take full advantage of these little guys. So.... if we're gonna do it, we might as well do it right (or as right as possible) from the start. Any advice would be appreciated.


As you can see they did not like my idea for a feed bowl, so we have since replaced it with a hanging chicken feeder temporarily. They will soon have their very own bunny feeder.


 

 
More pictures of the bigger rabbit.

 

 
Another picture of the smaller rabbit.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 25, 2016)

They look like some New Zealand mix rabbits? 

Very beautiful rabbits! If they have been together for a long while then they "should" be ok with adequate space. Most males will fight and brutally at that. Be prepared with the stress to moving that they could start to fight. 

The smaller one looks younger (6 months maybe 8 depending?)... Do you know how long the person had them for?


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## LukeMeister (Apr 25, 2016)

Congrats on the new bunnies! 
I had two bucks that lived together peacefully for about 5ish months, then they started fighting and had to be separated. Try to get them their own hutches attached to their own runs as soon as possible.
As for the breeds, I have no idea, but I think they look to be about 5 to 7 months old (I could be off by a lot though).


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## ccheek (Apr 25, 2016)

The lady that gave them to me had them for a day.... but the lady that gave them to her has had them since birth as far as I could tell by the conversation. But, she didn't seem to be able to give a lot of information about them. There was originally three, supposedly all bucks, but the other "buck" had a litter yesterday so she decided to keep her to see how they turned out. She said she just didn't really have a need for anymore bucks but didn't want to feed them out just to put them in the freezer when they were just given to her.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 25, 2016)

Do you know about how heavy they are?


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## ccheek (Apr 25, 2016)

The big one is probably about eight pounds (I'm comparing to about the weight of a gallon of milk). The little one, probably only a few.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 25, 2016)

I am leaning towards New Zealand or Thriantha cross for the bigger one but I have no clue how popular Thrianthas are in your area. THe little one looks like it could be Flemish Giant cross with the face and ears but he is so little that I just don't know. 

I had a Netherland Dwarf crossed with a mini lop and they had super similar faces... So the little one could be part Netherland Dwarf... SO many possibilities running through my head... Sorry I am typing out loud to get all of them out as I guess. Definitely Heinz57's but adorable as ever! 

Do y'all plan on just having them for pets? starting to raise for meat or 4H?


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## ccheek (Apr 25, 2016)

You're typing out loud helps more than you know. At least it getting breeds in my head to research. My daughter shows poultry with 4H, so we'll probably add these as another 4H project. She is going in knowing that they will probably end up in the freezer unless we get a doe and start breeding. I would like to make sure we get some knowledge and experience under our belts before we go that far though.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 25, 2016)

the common ones in my area, every area is different, are New Zealand, Flemish Giant, Californian, Rex, Mini Rex, Satin, Thriantha, Florida Whites, Netherland Dwarfs, Any kind of Lops and crosses of all of the above. If they make it to 10 pounds within 4 months time, There is a very good chance they are at least part Flemish. If they stop around the 8 pound marker, Most likely the New Zealand cross. The head on the red one though...  I swear it looks thriantha... (*Pic in not mine, it was found on google*)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




BUT it also looks like a NZ Red... (*photo found on google*)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Baby Flemish Giant (*photo found on google*)


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## Pastor Dave (Apr 25, 2016)

The tips of the ears remind me of Calis.
Did you say they were from the same litter?
The red reminds me iof a NZR and Cali mix.
The other one has the dark ear tips too, and looks like a Satin cross. Idk. Like Samantha says could be any cross. Look like intermediate aged bucks, like Luke said.


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## Pastor Dave (Apr 25, 2016)

One other thing just struck me from looking at the pic again. The chicken wire used for the floor is not good for rabbit feet. They need a mesh that is 1/2"x1". You don't want to cut their feet.


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## ccheek (Apr 25, 2016)

As far as I know they aren't from the same litter. We are moving them into a better home soon. This was just a very spontaneous way to get them a place to sleep. Thank you for the help. We are learning quickly and can hopefully give them a good home with y'alls help.


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## ccheek (Apr 27, 2016)

I have a few follow-up questions on the cages for you guys, please. I have been contemplating and googling hutch plans. I went to the farm supply store today to figure out what was available quickly. I found the 1/2"x1" mesh that @Pastor Dave recommended. I also read on another thread where you guys use 1"x1" and 1"x2" for the sides and top, you recommend staying away from wooden hutches, and @Pastor Dave even gave some great information on the dimensions. I'm deeply indebted for all the knowledge. My questions are:

1) Will you share some pictures of a recommended setup, or what works best for you?
2) How do you guys deal with the poop issue? I have a garden and would love to put it to use. I have seen pictures where people guide it into a gutter or PVC pipe. Any opinions?
3) I've been told they need a constant supply of hay. Should hay just be laid out in the cage or do they have mini-mangers (that probably sounds stupid, but I gotta ask)?
4) Can they be kept in the same area (not same pen, but maybe same barn just separated)? I've read that chickens have certain bacteria by nature that can be bad for rabbits, but I don't know what to believe and not believe.
5) @LukeMeister talked about runs.... Do the runs need a mesh bottom so they don't burrow? Or will the runs need to be built off the ground (more questions that sound stupid even as I type them, but I just want to make as few mistakes as possible from the get go)?


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## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2016)

I agree to stay away from wood however, my favorite for cooler weather or outside housing is wood... I attached a photo of my set up and the wooden hutches we built.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2016)

My hay mangers are pretty simple... I buy small baskets at the dollar store and zip tie or wire them to the outside of the cage to keep it clean and for the easiest way for me. 

I have heard of people keeping them in the same area. I don't have chickens so I don't know. 

I have used play pens or fencing for mine outside but I do suggest one that has a bottom and a top if they will be left unsupervised at any point in time in them. It will protect them from predators and from escaping. They will also need a hut of some sort if they are outside to stay out of the sun.


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## LukeMeister (Apr 27, 2016)

ccheek said:


> I have a few follow-up questions on the cages for you guys, please. I have been contemplating and googling hutch plans. I went to the farm supply store today to figure out what was available quickly. I found the 1/2"x1" mesh that @Pastor Dave recommended. I also read on another thread where you guys use 1"x1" and 1"x2" for the sides and top, you recommend staying away from wooden hutches, and @Pastor Dave even gave some great information on the dimensions. I'm deeply indebted for all the knowledge. My questions are:
> 
> 1) Will you share some pictures of a recommended setup, or what works best for you?
> 2) How do you guys deal with the poop issue? I have a garden and would love to put it to use. I have seen pictures where people guide it into a gutter or PVC pipe. Any opinions?
> ...


If they start digging holes around the edges, maybe. But I put the mesh on the outside of the cage along the bottom (mine are mobile so the can mow/fertilize our lawn) so they can't walk on it and hurt their feet.
These are what mine look like. 




Just with mesh laid out on the ground so they can't dig out.


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## ccheek (Apr 27, 2016)

Thank you @Samantha drawz. You have a pretty good setup. It will definitely take a while for us to get that far along, but if my daughter has her way we'll get there.      Awww.... I like your little cages/runs @LukeMeister. Those look pretty easy to put together and move. My husband would love the fact that I could just move them to mow instead of him having to weedeat around them. We would definitely have to put something over it or put them under a tree to give them some shade as far south as we live.


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## Pastor Dave (Apr 27, 2016)

I have some framework I built to sit cages on side by side, and can stack them triple high. This is at the back of my shed and fastened to exposed studs. It is made from 2x2's. I can't really upload pics too well right now. I have room for 60" of cage(s) on each of the three levels. So, for me, I have a row with a 24"x24" beside a 36"x 24" cage. I also have a row with two 30x30" cages. On top are a couple extra unused spare cages.
I would prefer to have made some framework out of pvc pipe or anything less absorbent as wood.

I also have up two larger cages on one side wall that are hanging from rafters, and two more across on the other wall that are both on metal legs.

I haven't had much luck with hay feeders, so just place as much as they will eat during the night by their food trough on the floor. They do not seem to mind so much that it is directly on the floor. You can get an idea of how much is too much per rabbit by what is not eaten come morning.

I found a roll of hardware mesh at Rural King that is approx three feet high. It was intended to put around a garden to keep rabbits out. I figured it would work to keep them in. I cut two 5' pieces and two 4' pieces and made a rectangle slightly bigger than a square. I used j-clamps to attach the pieces. I also had a roll of chicken wire that is 4' wide. I made a piece to cover the top and again used j-clamps to hinge it to one side. I can lay it down flat since there s no bottom, and the top is only fastened to one side. I use metal tent stakes to fasten it down secure. I put it inside my chain link fenced in yard, but mine are content in the larger area with the fresh grass and clover that they have not tried to dig out.

Hope this helps you some. If I can get some pics uploaded, I will send a few.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2016)

I had another side of cages too that was basically large breed dog kennels with litter trays in the back and they were potty trained.


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## LukeMeister (Apr 27, 2016)

Yeah, they are. We live in NC and it gets pretty hot here in the Summer, so we freeze water bottles for them to lean against when it's too hot.


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## ccheek (Apr 27, 2016)

I have been told to freeze water bottles for them so they don't get too hot this summer as well.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2016)

Porcelain tile also works well for any that are big into chewing.


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## ccheek (Apr 27, 2016)

We're in SE Oklahoma. We're already hitting mid to high 80's and it doesn't slow down from here. But, my Mother-in-law lives in KY and she's already lost one sow to the heat because they are hotter than we are, which is extremely abnormal. Crazy weather!


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## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2016)

Due to having so many and they were so big, we froze the tiles as they took less space in the freezer. In our new barn we just did an A/C unit due to my breed being so darn touchy to heat.


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## ccheek (Apr 27, 2016)

Samantha drawz said:


> Porcelain tile also works well for any that are big into chewing.


Thank you! I haven't heard that, but did hear that I may have a problem with reusing bottles if they like to chew on them.


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## samssimonsays (Apr 27, 2016)

ccheek said:


> We're in SE Oklahoma. We're already hitting mid to high 80's and it doesn't slow down from here. But, my Mother-in-law lives in KY and she's already lost one sow to the heat because they are hotter than we are, which is extremely abnormal. Crazy weather!


And here I am having to watch my baby goat with how abnormally cold it's been...  Freak weather!


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## Pastor Dave (Apr 27, 2016)

I tend to use both. I believe the meteorologists decide on a climate using ten year periods. Where I am was thought to have average temps around 80degs during summer, but it is more typical for us to be around 90 plus.
I start out with the frozen floor tiles as it climbs up between 85-90. If you have spares it helps to swap them out periodically.
I will then add the frozen 2 liters. These last a good deal if allowed to freeze solid. I try to have 2 per cage to allow one to have a good freeze while one is in use.
I also use a fan down low to move air or ammonia/odor that lingers at the floor level. I have a couple box fans above in the rafters helping pull hot air up away, and a fan in the window closest to them to draw in fresh air.
Any trick that will help. I keep an old fridge with freezer at the top in fhe shed for the bottles and tiles.


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## Amblingbear (May 1, 2016)

I breed Flemish, the one really looks like a cross, the face and ears to me seem like it. They are handome fellows!
 For the heat I also use the frozen 2 liters, haven't had a chewing issue, but they are easy to replace, reusable, and I keep 2 -3 for each hutch frozen. I place them in the hutch every morning it calls to be over 75/80 degrees. Replace again in afternoon as needed. Hope this helps! Enjoy your new. Little guys!


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## ccheek (May 3, 2016)

Amblingbear said:


> I breed Flemish, the one really looks like a cross, the face and ears to me seem like it. They are handome fellows!
> For the heat I also use the frozen 2 liters, haven't had a chewing issue, but they are easy to replace, reusable, and I keep 2 -3 for each hutch frozen. I place them in the hutch every morning it calls to be over 75/80 degrees. Replace again in afternoon as needed. Hope this helps! Enjoy your new. Little guys!


Thank you. They have been fun, no matter what mix breed they may be.


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## ccheek (May 3, 2016)

Our chickens get all our non-meat table scraps. Is there certain things I can/can't give the rabbits as well? I feel bad taking treats to the chickens all the time and nothing to the rabbits.


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## samssimonsays (May 3, 2016)

Nothing that gives people gas. No iceberg lettuce. Here  is a good site for resources


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## ccheek (May 3, 2016)

Thank you so much! Love the website!


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## ccheek (May 9, 2016)

I'm definitely not going to have a successful cage building business anytime soon, but here's our first attempt. I'm needing a few more clamps on the roof as well as a door and hole for the feeder, but do you think it will hold a rabbit? Its a little taller than what I originally planned, but cutting it in half made it look too short, and I didn't want to waste material, so I just went with it the way it was. I am wanting to put something over the rounded piece in the cage to provide a little nook for them (I'm going to make two cages exactly the same). Do you guys think this would be okay, or is it more of a hazard? We are going to try to hang these. I will post more pictures as the process comes along. BUT, I'm wanting some constructive criticism because I don't want it to be unsafe. I didn't notice making them homes would be so stressful!


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## samssimonsays (May 9, 2016)

For a first time that looks great!  You will get better I promise. I am not sure if it will withstand a rabbit in it hanging as I am unsure of if it will give under the weight of the rabbit or not. It all depends on the type of wire you used.


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## ccheek (May 9, 2016)

The sides are 14 ga. The bottom is either 14 or 16 (I can't remember). I'm worried that since it is much bigger than I had originally planned that it may not hang well. I'm afraid it will buckle. We may just hang it and set some weights in it to see how it holds up before we put a rabbit in it. Worst case scenario.... they just set instead of hang I guess.


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## samssimonsays (May 9, 2016)

Yes, that would be a good plan. I had shelves I used due to my rabbits weighing so much and I made lines of cages instead of individual ones. that way it cut down on the amount of cutting I had to do and the length was perfect for making the lines I wanted. I mounted shelving on the walls that only had framing so the poop fell to the floor and or a collection tray just the same.


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## ccheek (May 9, 2016)

Great idea! Thanks!


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## frustratedearthmother (May 9, 2016)

I had a set of kind of rickety cages some time ago that I wanted to hang.   I ended up hanging two t-posts and setting the cages on top of those hanging posts (secured firmly) which allowed me to put them at a convenient height and still let the poop fall through.  Maybe you could try something like that?


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## ccheek (May 9, 2016)

I was just thinking about that @frustratedearthmother. I have some t-posts just hanging around waiting on a job. I might as well set a cage on top of them. What did you use to secure the cage to the t-post. I'm not sure how big the rabbits are going to be when they are full grown so I would rather be overly cautious.... plan for a Flemish Giant and hope for something a little smaller,


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## frustratedearthmother (May 9, 2016)

Gosh...As best I recall I basically kind of hung them both.  The t posts were hung from the rafters, and so when I set the cages on them I just used more wire and secured them from the rafters too - even though the t-posts were taking all the weight and supporting the bottom of the cages.

Then I put a loop of thin wire around the t-post and through the corner of the cages just for extra security.

I'm sure you can make it work!


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## Pastor Dave (May 10, 2016)

The construction looks pretty good.
T-posts sounds like it would give more support to the bottom.
I was going to suggest 1/2" dia. pvc pipe. There is a good post on here or somewhere else maybe that gives a complete instruction on building a rack system out of pvc to stack cages on and allows for drop pans too.


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## Pastor Dave (May 10, 2016)

Oh, also. I recommend a minimum of a 12" door hole with a 14"door for 1" overlap on all sides.


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## ccheek (May 10, 2016)

Thank you! I've been looking through the threads to try to find some ideas, hopefully I will run across the PVC post soon. I have a gutter at home that is just surplus from another project so if I can get the cages to hang I would like to put some tin under the cages at an angle to run all the drippings into the gutter after poking a few holes in the bottom of it to let the pee drain out. At clean out time, in a perfect world, I could just throw it on my garden.

I'm still trying to figure out the door, hence the fact it isn't cut yet. Thank you for the advice. I was wondering how big the door needed to be, especially since I'm not sure how big they are going to get at this point.


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## Pastor Dave (May 11, 2016)

The size I recommended may not work for giant breeds, but should work for large breeds and smaller.


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## ccheek (May 12, 2016)

Thank you. Any recommendations on which way the door opens? I've been told it can open any way you want it, but I would like to hear what has seemed to work best for you guys.


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## samssimonsays (May 12, 2016)

I have seen people have them open in and they swing up. I do not like that as it is more difficult for me personally but people like them. THen no latches are required. I have had them open out and down before but often got caught on the corners if there was a struggle. 

NOW I have doors that swing open to the side and although they can come back at you, it is easier for me. I like having the door swing to the right but I have both.


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## Pastor Dave (May 12, 2016)

I agree with Samantha.
I have some commercial cages that hinge at top and swing in or out. The ones I have made are hinged on the side and open to left or right. I guess I prefer left hand side for whatever it matters. It also makes it simpler by design as to which side or center the door is placed. I used J-clamps for hinges and you can buy latches in bulk as well as the channeled strips you put along the cutout and edges of the door, so you and the bunnies don't get scratched.


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## ccheek (May 12, 2016)

I still have a lot of J-clamps left over so that won't be a problem. I saw the channeled strips in  pictures on another thread and was like "Oh, I gotta get me some of that stuff!" . I have scratches all over me just from trying to build the cages.


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## Pastor Dave (May 12, 2016)

Yah, I fully understand the scratches from fabricating with the mesh.
I would come in and my wife would ask if I had been scratched by a rabbit. I began leaving bandaids in the shed. Better keep up on your tetanus shot, and stock up on triple antibiotic ointment.


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