# Let's Look at our Different Feeding Practices *GOATS*



## elevan

It seems that if you ask 100 different farmers you'll get a 100 different answers on just about every subject and this subject is really no different.

So let's run a thread about our different feeding programs so that we can learn from each other's methods.  

Welcome to all different methods of feeding: _natural, homeopathic, commercial, custom, organic, etc._

*Be sure to include what state / country / region that you are in.

What specifically are you feeding?  
What are you adding to supplement it?  
And how does your feeding program change seasonally?*

_*Please include or edit to include the type(s) of goats that you raise*_

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

_No one is right or wrong on this thread - they are just true to their farm.  This is a learn / share thread.  

Learning requires questions and answers as well.  So if you need clarification on someone's post please ask a question of them so everyone else can learn too.

This thread is open to civilized debate.  As long as you don't state that you believe someone's feeding practices are harmful or outright wrong debating is good.

Any statements suggesting a practice is outright wrong or implied as harmful will result in you being reported._

Thank you for participating


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## elevan

Location:  Central Ohio - United States
Goats raised: Dwarf breeds (pygmy and nigerian dwarf and crosses)

Winter - Spring:
Hay (clover / orchard grass / alfalfa) - available free choice to all
Alfalfa pellets - _free choice to dams in the kidding pens and goats in breeding pens.  A handful a day to all others._
_Sweetlix 16:8_ Minerals - Available free choice to all
Mineral block - available free choice to all

Summer Fall:
Pasture / Browse
_Alfalfa pellets_ - _free choice to dams in the kidding pens and goats in breeding pens._ And fed to milking goats
_Sweetlix 16:8_ Minerals - Available free choice to all
Mineral block - available free choice to all
(we don't grain during this time unless we are milking or breeding)

Our buck barn gets ammonium chloride (AC) added to their loose minerals. 

Breeding bucks get free choice alfalfa pellets

Supplements:
CMPK (Calcium / Magnesium / Phosphorus / Potassium) - As Needed
_Sweetlix 16:8_ Minerals - All goats free choice
Ammonium Chloride (A.C.) - Added to minerals
Molasses - Post kidding does
Electrolytes - As Needed
BoSe - 30 days Pre-Kidding and As Needed
Copasure - 2x per year All goats
Vitamin A & D - All goats / Fall of every year
Red Cell - As Needed

Treats:
Usually crunchy leaves or a pine bough.
Sometimes the apple flavored horse treats.
A couple of my goats will accept fruit or veggies as a treat.


_eta:  We changed some of our feeding practices this Fall / Winter.  Those that were changed have been italicized._


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## SuburbanFarmChic

WV - USA. Eastern Panhandle over by MD and VA 

   All year. 

   What ever hay I can get which is usually an orchard grass mix but I do try to give the milking girls alfalfa when I can get it.  

   I prefer Dumor goat but we are on a medicated goat/sheep feed at the moment due to bottle feeding a Khatadin lamb.  She goes to her new home in about a month I think.   This is supplemented with afalfa pellets, AC for everybody as my buck and a wether are running with the herd.  Normally I use a loose goat mineral. Right now it's a goat/sheep block and I'm pulling the lamb into the yard to keep her from getting copper by accident if I have to dose anybody.   Probios is top dressed every week or 3. 

     All year they are supplemented with fruit and veg from a local grocery and what ever I grow in the garden that I don't use.  We are putting in a greenhouse and I want to have a bed that is for fresh greens for them in the winter.  

    I also cut browse/weeds/tree branches, etc to bring to them. 


    We grain all year.  For 7 goats and 1 sheep they get 3 qt scoops a day and it is normally divided out to 1.5 scoops morning and evening.  But since I probably go a little heavy on the half measure I would guess it is more like 3.5.


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## elevan

Why do you top dress with Probios every 1-3 weeks?  Is this preventative or are you seeing some benefit to it?


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## SuburbanFarmChic

Mainly because they get a wide variety of totally random fruits and veggies and I see fewer soft poops when I do.


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## Livinwright Farm

I know that I am going to like this thread already. It will be neat to see how each of us feeds, if we supplement(and if so with what & when), and all of that. I hope some of the all natural/homeopathic farmers chime in on this one too!

I am located in USDA Hardiness Zone 4b-5a in West Ossipee, NH.
_*I raise 4 Nigerian Dwarfs, 1 Pygmy, and currently 3 Nigerian Dwarf/Pygmy crosses.*_

From late fall through early spring we feed:
*Does: *
- Purina Noble Goat(bag does not specify medicated or non-medicated, _*however, just noticed the tag on the bag does*_ )
- Manna Pro Calf Manna
- Loose Goat Mineral
- Salt block
- Goats Prefer Probiotic Power(once per week)
- Produce trimmings/"waste" (lettuce, cabbage, squash, green beans, anything else that the store deems unsellable - like fruit that fell onto the ground & bruised)
- Free choice hay(will edit this reply, once I find out WHAT our hay is)
- Lucerne Farms Alfa Supreme(shredded & molasses misted alfalfa hay)
_*BOSS during winter months & when lactating*_

*Bucks: *
- Dumor pelleted goat feed
- Loose Goat Mineral
- Salt Block
- Produce trimmings/"waste"
- Free choice hay

From late spring through early fall:

Same as above, except add Browse and corn husks & fresh corn kernels to both lists.

For breeding seasons(late spring & mid to late fall)
Add in Calf Manna & Goats Prefer Probiotic Power to the bucks list.

_*Kids that are not Dam raised are fed: Land O Lakes Does' Match Kid Milk Replacer w/ 1/2 scoop Goats Prefer Probiotic Power. When they reach the appropriate age they are given free choice a 50/50 mix of Purina Noble Goat & Manna Pro Calf Manna*_


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## jodief100

OK, yall are probably going to be horrified but here it goes:

Location:   Northern Kentucky, 25 miles south of Cincinnati, Ohio.  
USDA Hardiness Zone:  6A, average minimum temperature -5 to -10 F, average maximum temperatures 90 to 100 F.  
Climate:  Moderately hot and moderately humid summers, cold and dry winters with dramatic temperature fluctuations year round.  Average snowfall is about 20 inches.  Average is rainfall about 42 inches.  
Terrain:  Rocky hills divided by a year round running creek. Property includes wooded acres, grassland pastures and weedy floodplain.  
Breeds raised:  Kiko and Boer
Type of Operation:  Market meat 
Stocking rate:  Currently 44 total animals including young and weaned kids on 32 acres.  

I do not use medicated feed anymore because I am concerned about low level medications increasing drug resistance.  The feed I use does have AC. 

Open does and weaned kids:
Fall/Spring/Summer: Free access to grass pastures, 2-3 hours a day of browsing the woods and weedy floodplains.  A mix of Dumor goat, corn, alfalfa pellets and BOSS at the rate of about 1 lb per 10 head is offered once a day to the general population.  Free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.  
Winter:  Free access to wintered grass pastures, two days a week browsing the woods and weedy floodplains.  Free access to a low percentage alfalfa/grass mix hay or grass mix, depends on what I can get,  A mix of Dumor goat, corn, alfalfa pellets and BOSS at the rate of about 1 lb per 5 head is offered once a day to the general population.  Free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.

Pregnant and lactating does and their nursing kids:
Fall/Spring/Summer: Free access to grass pastures, 2-3 hours a day of browsing the woods and weedy floodplains.  A mix of Dumor goat, corn, alfalfa pellets and BOSS at the rate of about 1 lb per 5 head is offered once a day to the general population.  Free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.  
Winter:  Free access to wintered grass pastures, two days a week browsing the woods and weedy floodplains.  Free access to a low percentage alfalfa/grass mix hay or grass mix, depends on what I can get,  A mix of Dumor goat, corn, alfalfa pellets and BOSS at the rate of about 1 lb per 4 head is offered once a day to the general population.  Free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.

2-3 weeks prior to giving birth and 1 week following:  Does are segregated into their own pens and given the Grain mix twice a day, 8 oz at a feeding.  They have free access to a low percentage alfalfa/grass mix hay or grass mix and free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.  During the warmer months they are let out to browse with the general population during their 2-3 hours session.

Bucks:
Fall/Spring/Summer: Free access to grass pastures.  A mix of Dumor goat and BOSS at the rate of about 1 lb per 4 head is offered once a day to the general population.  Free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.  
Winter:  Free access to wintered grass pastures.  Free access to grass mix hay. A mix of Dumor goat and BOSS at the rate of about 1 lb per 4 head is offered once a day to the general population.  Free access to Southern States brand loose goat mineral.

I will watch individual animals and will segregate during feeding time and feed extra if I feel it is needed.  

I think that different feeding operations are needed for different situations based on your type of operation, your stocking rate, types of goats and what your land is like.


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## elevan

jodief100 - what is your ratio for your feed mix? is it all equal parts?


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## 20kidsonhill

Virgnia in the valley, near the west virgnia line.  

We have around 20 adult does, 2 to 3 herd sires, we are a meat goat operation.  We normally kid out in february, it is a good time a year for our kids to be born, for the fair to be shown for 4H-ffa projects in the meat goat classes. 

we have pasture from april to november, maybe december if it is a good year, and all our adult goats only get pasture and loose goat minerals(co-op milled) free-choice, unless

For flushing before breeding season they get some pelleted goat grain 16% protein, medicated for abougt 3 weeks before putting them in with a buck.  We start with around 1 1/2 cups per day per head and go up to about 3 cups. 

We take them off the grain after the buck goes in.  (too much fighting)  



We feed no grain to any of our does that are bred, until 30 days before they are due, then they recieve around 1 1/2 measuring cups at first on up to 3 cups(1lb) of 16 % medicated goat developer/grower grain and continue  this through the nursing of their kids. 

All goats receive a 2nd or 3 rd cutting grass mix hay if there isn't enough pasture, normally December to March, for the winter months. and during dry spells.  mostly free-choice, Althoug I have to use the feeders to feed grain, so I feed what I think they will clean up each day. 

After goats kid they receive free-choice hay, continue with the
                                 1 lb 16% goat delveloper(co-op brand) pelleted/medicated has 2.5% fat and 16% protein,   Roughage products is listed first followed by grain products on the feed label.  We would also slowly start adding rolled/cracked corn for added energy and milk production. up to around 1 1/2 cups per doe per day. 

     This is all we used to do, until this year, after I have been on this forum we decided to try doing a couple new things.  We started adding a bale(40lbs) of alfalfa hay to their diets per every 10 or so does, 
  adding up to 1 cup of dry beet pulp per doe, mixed into pelleted feed

We wean at 8 weeks, all weaned does come off of grain and are on grass hay/pasture. 


kids are fed in a creep-feed area, free-choice 16% pelleted goat feed, same as what we are using on does, up until they are chosen for show whethers, show whethers are switched over to a show feed in May for an August show. 

Replacement doelings/bucklings are kept on the 16 % feed until 15 months of age or they are bred, sometimes at 11 to 12 months of age.  they receive around 2 lbs a day for the first 7 to 8 months and then 1 lb a day after that. 1 lb is 3 cups of feed. Yes, my growing buckling are receiveing up to 6 cups of feed a day. 

All my feed contains AC.  
All my pelelted feed is medicated. 


Short version:

lactating does:
free-choice grass hay/pasture
2 to 4lbs of alfalfa hay
1lb pelleted medictated 16%protein goat grower
1cup dry beet pulp 
up to 1 1/2 cups dried corn
free-choice goat minerals

All goats over 15 months of age, not nursing
Only hay or pasture, free-choice minerals

flush does for 3 weeks before breeding

under 15 months of age, not bred
1 - 2 lbs pelleted grain
hay or pasture


bred does, no grain, until last month of pregnancy. 

Bo-Se shots twice a year, onse before breeding, onse before kidding

copper bolusing at the end of winter, this is new to us, I am not sure if we will do it twice, right now we are plannning on one time before the heavy worm loads in the spring.   

BOSS: started using this a little on some yearlings that just kidded, not sure if I will continue, it was $17 for a 25lb bag. 

Purchased Goat Preferred probiotic Powder this winter for the first time.  used it on some does that weren't doing well.  Along with red-cell for the first time. Seemed to really help them. 

Vitamine B complex, also purchased t his for the first time. for sick goats.  

I was able to save a very ill doe, that I am sure wouldn't have made it with out some of these new items .  <<<Thank you BYH>>>

edited to add: we have 6 pasture acres, divided into 4 fenced in areas. Our goats are locked out of the barn from March to November, calf huts are provided for protection from rain, if they choose to use them.


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## jodief100

elevan said:
			
		

> jodief100 - what is your ratio for your feed mix? is it all equal parts?


Girls mix:
8 parts grain
4 parts whole corn
4 parts alfalfa pellets
1 part BOSS

Boys mix:
8 parts grain
1 part BOSS

All are by weight


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## elevan

20kidsonhill - you stated you feed your kids in a creep feeder free choice...I think my goats would eat themselves to death.  Do you find that overeating is only a problem for adults?


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## 20kidsonhill

elevan said:
			
		

> 20kidsonhill - you stated you feed your kids in a creep feeder free choice...I think my goats would eat themselves to death.  Do you find that overeating is only a problem for adults?


the kids put on some serious weight, quickly in a free-choice situation, I am guessing here, but I would be willing to bet if I continued to feed them free-choice up through their teen-age years(8-10months or older) they would get over weight quickly).  Even on a couple lbs a day of feed the 10 months and up will get chubby if I am not careful. 

WE sell most of our stock at 10 weeks(breeding stock) to 4 months( butchering), we keep very few past that. Just a couple replacement does, maybe a new buckling that we purchased young, they are fed 2 lbs a day until I think they look like they are putting too much weight on, normally around 9 months of age and then I go down to 1 lb. 

Our show whethere are normally around 6 months of age for the show, they are pretty much free-choice fed pelleted grain, very little hay.  But they are also exercised, a lot at the end.  We do have a little dairy in some of our goats, I can tell the higher boers will get over weight easier. The dairy have a tendency to put frame on faster. The judge will comment about how nice the frame is, but they always come up a little short in the muscling down in their legs. 

We shoot for atleast 3% feed consumption of their body weight on up to 4% for animals that need to put weight on faster. 

So a 50lb kid would need to eat between 1.5lb to 2lbs a day, or 4 1/2 cups to 6 cups of pelleted goat grower feed a day, to maintain a weight gain of near .5lbs a day.


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## helmstead

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> We do have a little dairy in some of our goats, I can tell the higher boers will get over weight easier. The dairy have a tendency to put frame on faster. The judge will comment about how nice the frame is, but they always come up a little short in the muscling down in their legs.


We creep our babies (all dairy) til they're 6-8 mos old, too.  20 is spot-on that after 8 mos, you would experience over-conditioning if you continued, but it does aid the dairy goats in gaining maturity faster (which helps you both in showing juniors and getting to the breeding readiness more quickly).


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## 20kidsonhill

We are not a pet operation, we try to turn a profit or atleast break-even. Our theory is put more into the growing kids less into the brood does, We do not show the adult goats, so we don't need to have them in show quality, we need to have them in good shape for proper ovulation and healthy pregnancy and to live a healthy life, but show animals are technically(atleast meat goats) over weight and not a healthy weight for a productive life.  

We put most of our feed costs into growing out our market kids and getting our replacement does and bucks big enough to join the herd and become productive. The sooner you can tell how they are going to do the better for your evaluation of your stock.  


This year I kidded out 4-15 month old does that were fed grain up until they were bred, then no grain until they were 2 weeks before kidding, and they kidded out 7 nice kids, plus one stillborn.  I was able to evaluate everyone and decide if I needed to plan for any changes in my breeding stock. The answer to this was yes, one of the does has very poor udder attachment and ended up being completely fish teated, with no split what-so-ever, even at the end, so I never noticed it until she had a full-bag.  Her udder is horrible and I am planning on keeping an extra doeling to replace her in a year. I will breed her one more year since my new doeling wont be old enough to replace her. We wont keep any future breeding stock from her and just market the kids.  It is a shame she is out of my paint doe from Indiana and she had triplets her first kidding, although she had one stillborn. 

If I had not fed her out and got her to weight soon enough I would have had to wait to breed her, I probably would have had all my doelings sold and would have had to wait another year to keep a different doeling to replace her. Does that make any sense??? One could argue why don't you keep a couple extra does in those situations?


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## Emmetts Dairy

Thanks Elevan...this is cool to see what everyones doing.  I used your format!! It was easier! Thanks for the fill in form!! 


Location:  NH - United States
Goats raised: Toggenburgs 
Use: Dairy
Climate: Cold almost all the time!! And feet of snow!!  

Winter - Spring:
Hay (clover / timothy / alfalfa / Stemie 1st cut bales added) - Available free choice to all
Dumor Goat - Fed to all (A/C included)
Manna Pro Goat Minerals (loose) - Available free choice to all
Manna Pro Goat Balancer - Fed to all (Suppliment)
Salt block - Available free choice to all

Summer - Fall:
Pasture / Browse
Hay (clover / timothy / alfalfa *no stemies in summer) - Available free choice to all
Dumor Goat - Fed to all does *(bucks I start graining in the fall for condition before rutt and grain till browse comes in spring)
Alfalfa Pelletts - Added to milkers feed
Manna Pro Goat Minerals (loose) - Available free choice to all
Manna Pro Goat Balancer - Fed to all (Suppliment)
Salt block - Available free choice to all


Treats:
Raisins (training) / fresh veggies 

Probios - As needed
* I feed by weight, age and needs ie lactating, pregnant etc. 
* My new spring kids - Nevermind thats a whole new thread with in itself!!! ha ha ha!! They get Momma's milk!!!


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## AlaskanShepherdess

Location: Central Alaska
Hardiness Zone: 1
Average Winter Temps: -20 below zero F, with weeks at a time where it can drop to -50, and  quite often to -40. Highs are 10 above.
Average Summer Temps: Lows of 40's on wet rainy yucky days, highs of 90's average temperature is 75.
First snow flies anywhere from mid Sept to mid Oct and is gone by mid-late April
Breed: Purebred Nigerian Dwarf Dairy goats

Winter:
Feed consists of local no chemical brome hay for all.
Does in milk and any needing extra conditioning receive a grain mix I make myself consisting of local no herbicide/pesticide barley (often it's just this), no chemicals BOSS, and local no herbicide/pesticide oats. Does in milk also receive alfalfa pellets and I use alfalfa pellets as a treat for the others on occasion. And for bribes. 

Summer:
The same except they also get browse which consists of lots of garden weeds, wild roses & raspberry's, birch leaves, spruce needles.

Kids receive no grain, GI Sooth from Fir Meadow for cocci preventative. 

For minerals I use kelp, which seems so far to work well for everything except copper and selenium, which is provided through another Fir Meadow herbal formula Kop-Sel.

I will be deworming with whatever Fir Meadow formula's are right for my needs. In the past I used Hoeggers.

Does in milk and pregnant receive red raspberry leaf. At first sign of illness goats get at least 1 clove of garlic each.

I am currently working on setting up a barley fodder system but because of some family issues that has been put on hold.

I do not vaccinate, and so far have had no need to medicate with standard drugs or chemical dewormers.


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## elevan

AlaskanShepherdess - I take a garlic supplement daily myself so I completely get where you're coming from with garlic at the first sign of illness for the goats.  My question for you is - How do you administer the garlic to your goats?  I have such picky goats that it becomes a PITA to give them anything at times.  Do they just take it like a treat or do you hide it or what...how do you get them to eat the garlic?

I'm also unfamiliar with the benefits of red raspberry leaf...I suppose I could look it up - but that's why I started this thread so we could learn from each other.  What is the reason for supplementing the red raspberry leaf and what benefits are you seeing in your herd because of it?


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## AlaskanShepherdess

I recently started making garlic oil, I put a bunch of cloves in a mini blender with just enough oil to keep everything moving smoothly so all the garlic can be entirely shredded up. Then I add in more olive oil until I have about triple the amount of olive oil as garlic.  Then I can just drench them with the oil. I have 2 that drink it like they do their herbal "treats" (herbs with molasses and just enough water to get through syringe)

Previously I just put them through the garlic press into their grain. They never turned their nose up to it.

Red Raspberry leaf tones the reproductive organs and helps the body prepare for birth. I recently read about how much a strong decoction the day of birth helped in humans, and I want to try that on my does as well.

ETA: I haven't had enough does give birth yet to say for sure it works etc. The one kidding I have had so far was very easy with no problems.


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## Livinwright Farm

Garlic is also helpful in keeping the ticks off 

1 tsp of minced or dehydrated garlic mixed into their morning feed keeps them & mosquitos at bay.


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## jodief100

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> WE sell most of our stock at 10 weeks(breeding stock) to 4 months( butchering), we keep very few past that. Just a couple replacement does, maybe a new buckling that we purchased young, they are fed 2 lbs a day until I think they look like they are putting too much weight on, normally around 9 months of age and then I go down to 1 lb.
> 
> Our show whethere are normally around 6 months of age for the show, they are pretty much free-choice fed pelleted grain, very little hay.  But they are also exercised, a lot at the end.  We do have a little dairy in some of our goats, I can tell the higher boers will get over weight easier. The dairy have a tendency to put frame on faster. The judge will comment about how nice the frame is, but they always come up a little short in the muscling down in their legs.
> 
> We shoot for atleast 3% feed consumption of their body weight on up to 4% for animals that need to put weight on faster.
> 
> So a 50lb kid would need to eat between 1.5lb to 2lbs a day, or 4 1/2 cups to 6 cups of pelleted goat grower feed a day, to maintain a weight gain of near .5lbs a day.


20 kids- I find it interesting that we have the same goals, market meat stock and make a profit, yet we have very different approaches.  I don't creep feed the kids and they take 6-8 months to get to market weight (60-80).  I find that works out for me financially.  When your kids gain weight that fast do you have trouble with the meat animals being "fatty"?  My customers are pretty adamant they do not want any fat on the animal.  With my low stocking rates feeding them longer doesn't cost me anything.  It is only an issue when I carry a few over in the winter but I justify it by the fact that winter/early spring prices are so much higher it is worth it.  

I can see how your approach would have the advantage of being able to breed back the does quicker.  I will stick with mine for now but I would love to understand more about your approach from a financial perspective.


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## 20kidsonhill

jodief100 said:
			
		

> 20kidsonhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WE sell most of our stock at 10 weeks(breeding stock) to 4 months( butchering), we keep very few past that. Just a couple replacement does, maybe a new buckling that we purchased young, they are fed 2 lbs a day until I think they look like they are putting too much weight on, normally around 9 months of age and then I go down to 1 lb.
> 
> Our show whethere are normally around 6 months of age for the show, they are pretty much free-choice fed pelleted grain, very little hay.  But they are also exercised, a lot at the end.  We do have a little dairy in some of our goats, I can tell the higher boers will get over weight easier. The dairy have a tendency to put frame on faster. The judge will comment about how nice the frame is, but they always come up a little short in the muscling down in their legs.
> 
> We shoot for atleast 3% feed consumption of their body weight on up to 4% for animals that need to put weight on faster.
> 
> So a 50lb kid would need to eat between 1.5lb to 2lbs a day, or 4 1/2 cups to 6 cups of pelleted goat grower feed a day, to maintain a weight gain of near .5lbs a day.
> 
> 
> 
> 20 kids- I find it interesting that we have the same goals, market meat stock and make a profit, yet we have very different approaches.  I don't creep feed the kids and they take 6-8 months to get to market weight (60-80).  I find that works out for me financially.  When your kids gain weight that fast do you have trouble with the meat animals being "fatty"?  My customers are pretty adamant they do not want any fat on the animal.  With my low stocking rates feeding them longer doesn't cost me anything.  It is only an issue when I carry a few over in the winter but I justify it by the fact that winter/early spring prices are so much higher it is worth it.
> 
> I can see how your approach would have the advantage of being able to breed back the does quicker.  I will stick with mine for now but I would love to understand more about your approach from a financial perspective.
Click to expand...

We offer all our doelings for sale, as either registered or commercial stock.  I sell them off the farm at 10 weeks of age,  At this point they have only been on feed for around 7 weeks, and are probably eating around a 1 1/2 lbs a day of grain for the last couple weeks. I feel they transition better to their new home if they are used to eating grain. 
 More than half our males/whethers born in a season are sold as fair animals for 4h/ffa meat shows.  These animals have to be used to eating grain inorder to be ready for their new homes. Most of them will be picked up at 10 weeks of age. We wean at 8 weeks of age, so the show whethers(they could also be doelings) are ready to go to their new homes as soon as possible.   

The left over animals, hopefully no more than 1/4 of what we started with) that aren't show quality or breeding stock quality are fed out on our farm until they reach around 70lbs. OUr goal is to have them out the door by 4 or 5 months of age. First off we have a very healthy coccidiosis population here in virginia in the valley.  I pretty much have to treat for cocci, so feeding them medicated feed really helps with this.  Secondly, we only have around 4.5 true acres of pasture and we are running 25 adult goats, plus then their off-spring, so we are a little tight on room anyway. OUr hay is fairly pricey, maybe you are getting a better deal on hay. OUr hay is $5 a 50lb bale of grass mix 2nd cutting hay and $5 for a small bale of alfalfa, maybe up to $7 a bale for alfalfa.  The pelleted medicated feed is about double this, but I figure it is offering atleast twice the nutritional value of the hay, another words 1lb of pelleted feed would equal 2lbs of hay consumption.  I am truely just guessing, never actually figured it out. 



By selling the does as replacement does and whethers for the show I am able to ask as good a price or most the time higher for them at 10 weeks as I would get for them as 70lb to 80lb meat goats, no need to feed them out at all.  Although several of them were already above 50lbs at 8 weeks coming off of mom.  They wouldn't have had to much more growing to do.  You figure the fair animals are the better goats.  So I am left feeding out the lower end of the kids.   If I have a few lower end kids that I get tired of feeding out, I just sell them lighter and be done with it. sometimes a 50lb kid will still bring really good money at the sale as long as they look healthy. 

I haven't had any buyers complain about the fat on them.  I would agree they probably are a little fatter. I had a gentlemen from india coming and butchering 4 to 6 a year, at a good price. He commented that he didn't like them too fat, but he seemed to think the meat tasted really good and when he had a party some of his friends commented how wonderful the goat tasted.  This would have been a wonderful business arrangement with him, except he was making his moves on me(okay, stop laughing), and I had to tell him we wouldn't sell to him any longer, he was getting that inappropriate.  He called me on and off for another two years trying to get me to sell him and his friends more goats, He probably would have purchased just about everything I could have produced. He had some great connections up in the Washingtion D.C. area. It was just getting weird and creeping me out.  I said, "Stop laughting at me." 

No one wants to pay anything for them buying them from the farm for butchering around here, except Mr. creepy that I mentioned, we have had much better luck at the stock yards with our left over kids, so it isn't like they can complain to us about the fat.  Plus probably 2/3 of our goats have a little nubian in them and you could feed them all day and they don't get fat, they just keep putting on frame. Man those things can grow.   We have some good competition at the stockyards, with a couple buyers taking loads up to new YOrk and lots of privit buyers as well. There they have to pay and don't complain when they go $1.50 to $2.00 a lb.  yes they sell per head, I am going off of what I know they weigh. 

feel free to ask any questions.  

I apologize if this is too off subject for this thread.  

Don't get me wrong, our taxes always show a lose, and we don't make a living from our goats. But I do expect the goats to pay for themselves, with the added benifits of tax breaks from  the improved buildings, fencing, ectt....... Has it all been financially, profitable in the end?


----------



## Mossy Stone Farm

Washington State
Rain and more Rain
Some Sun, Wind and Snow.

Goats: Nubains
ygoras


Use: Dairy and Fiber



Winter: Spring: Summer:Fall

          Alfafla Free Choice
          Timothy Orchard was added this yr Hay was hard to get in....
          Throvine kelp out frre choice
          Sweetlix Caprine Magnum milk mineral free choice
           Kop Sel from Fir Medows was added this week.

          Summer Spring Fall: they go out on the acreage for Browes: Grassland and woods:

          Grain mix:
          Rolled Barley
          Whole oats
          Boss
          Split peas Yellow or green
          Alfafla Pellets 
          I do top dress with Flax Seed

          AC in 2 waters buckets free choice daily.



         I have a  Dry COB mix i use once in a while.


        I am feeding a buck frist time owner so will be watching
        him in the fall for his dietary needs.

         I am getting away from all GMO feeds.


----------



## elevan

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> feel free to ask any questions.
> *
> I apologize if this is too off subject for this thread.*


Please don't apologize for answering questions based on your feeding practices.  This thread is intended as a share/ learn environment.  You can't learn if you don't ask questions, right?

I encourage everyone to ask questions for clarification on anyone's feeding practices.  Just remember, everyone posting is true to their farm and no one is wrong 

Carry on...


----------



## elevan

Mossy Stone Farm - 
Would you care to share your grain mix ratios?  
Do you pre-grind your flax seeds? _In humans this is an important step or the seeds go in and out the same   goats may do some self grinding of the seeds...idk_


----------



## 20kidsonhill

I have been wanting to try flax seed, but I don't even now what the format is for buying it, the cost, or how it is fed.   Does it come in a bag like corn?  is it ground?  how much do you feed?  

I just started trying BOSS this summer on some of my yearling FF(first freshners), probably more like first timers since I am a meat farm.  they seem to really like it mixed into the grain. it was $17 for a 25lb bag.


----------



## elevan

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> I have been wanting to try flax seed, but I don't even now what the format is for buying it, the cost, or how it is fed.   Does it come in a bag like corn?  is it ground?  how much do you feed?
> 
> I just started trying BOSS this summer on some of my yearling FF(first freshners), probably more like first timers since I am a meat farm.  they seem to really like it mixed into the grain. it was $17 for a 25lb bag.


BOSS has gone up here by 200% in the past 6 months!  

I'm awaiting Mossy Farms reply on the flax too


----------



## Cooperkeeper

Thank you, thank you for this thread.  So much to learn and so much experience here.  

I would love to hear Mossy Farms mix as well.

Do several of you use the ACV and how much in water bucket?


----------



## jodief100

Since BOSS is at $25/50lbs I too would like to hear on the flax seed.  What benefits does the flaxseed provide?   How is it purchased and how much are you paying?


----------



## Roll farms

I get my flax seed from an Amish store about 1 hr away...$18.00 for a 50# bag of meal.


----------



## Mossy Stone Farm

OMG I just paid and this might be last bag of BOOS for 29.00 for 50 lbs  My flax meal is 15.00 for 50 lbs.  Looks like i maybe back to researching grains again... Good thing i don't mind


----------



## Cara Peachick

I am new, so if anyone disagrees with me, please tell me.

I am in south, middle TN.  I have dairy does only.

Spring-Fall:
Our land is 3 years past clear cut, so very brushy with sassafras, ragweed, locust, sage grass, various other trees, tons of berry bushes.  They get free access to very brushy land from about 6 am - 8 pm.  
At night, we usually pull some weeds/clover/grass for them to snack on, but they don't eat much at night.

My lactating doe gets about 7 cups a day of our local co-op goat feed which is non-medicated and includes copper.  My fat, dry doe gets grain only rarely, with her herbal wormer.  Same with the 2 week old baby, so far.

Manna Pro goat mineral free choice (which they ate a lot of when we first got them and now don't touch it much)

Kelp free choice

Winter:
will supplement with hay since the leaves will be off most of the brush and will begin everyone on grain


Occasional apples, carrots, tomatoes, tortilla chips, wheat thins  as snacks.

I have probios, but only fed it when the does first arrived, figuring it may help them recover from travel stress.  Their poops look great, so . . . if it's not broke, don't fix it?


----------



## elevan

Cara Peachick said:
			
		

> I am new, so if anyone disagrees with me, please tell me.


No one is wrong on this thread 

It seems to me that you're doing pretty good for just starting.  Hope this thread provides you with the tools to make changes as you see that they are needed.


----------



## elevan

It seems to me that by volume the Flax seed would be a great alternative for the BOSS.  Even though both bags are 50#...size of the flax seed is so much smaller so that you get more volume.

And the price per 50# sounds a little better on Flax right now...



Also do you mind answering this (I'm sure that it was missed):


> *Mossy Stone Farm -
> Would you care to share your grain mix ratios?
> Do you pre-grind your flax seeds?* In humans this is an important step or the seeds go in and out the same goats may do some self grinding of the seeds...idk


----------



## elevan

Roll farms said:
			
		

> I get my flax seed from an Amish store about 1 hr away...$18.00 for a 50# bag of meal.


  Howdy Roll!  I'd love to hear your feeding program


----------



## elevan

helmstead said:
			
		

> 20kidsonhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We do have a little dairy in some of our goats, I can tell the higher boers will get over weight easier. The dairy have a tendency to put frame on faster. The judge will comment about how nice the frame is, but they always come up a little short in the muscling down in their legs.
> 
> 
> 
> We creep our babies (all dairy) til they're 6-8 mos old, too.  20 is spot-on that after 8 mos, you would experience over-conditioning if you continued, but it does aid the dairy goats in gaining maturity faster (which helps you both in showing juniors and getting to the breeding readiness more quickly).
Click to expand...

Welcome helmstead   Care to share your own program?


----------



## helmstead

Sure.

Location:  SW Indiana (also was N GA - nothing really changed other than hay - we fed fescue/orchard hay in GA)

Raise:  Nubians, Mini-Nubians and Nigerians
Purpose:  dairy, showing

Seasonal changes:  nope

Browse:  dry lot, no browse

Hay:  alfalfa/orchard/clover mix, home grown

Feed:  (by group)
Herd-general (includes bucks & creep):  ADM Meat Goat Power 16% pelleted (Deccox & AC) 

Show Prep/Late Gestation/Lactation (can include bucks):  ADM pelleted above + alfalfa pellets + 36% complete concentrate 

Milk Stand:  12% semi-sweet high end horse feed with oats

Supplements:  copper & selenium boluses as needed

Mineral:  ADM Meat Maker loose


----------



## elevan

Helmstead - Would you tell us why you prefer to feed dry lot?  I'm guessing parasite control, but would like to hear your input.


----------



## helmstead

I can control exactly what goes in...more important to me for the milkers and the bucks.  

We are working on pasture land for dry does/retired does, but I never plan to pasture my bucks.  There are variables with browse that could easily 'mess up' my UC prevention.

Our set up (no rotational goat pens) makes parasite control a little harder, actually...than those with grazing land would have.


----------



## PattySh

Location  Northeast Vermont
herd of 17 currently, Nubian, miniNubian, Oberhasli/AlpineXs, NubianX's, Alpine/Togg and a couple of Nigis
Use the herd for family milk, cheese, playmates for the grandkids etc

Nothing fancy in our feeding program

Does have free access to pasture/browse and venture out several times per day
Does get as much non medicated sweet goat feed as they can eat on the stand
All the mixed grass hay they can eat,

 Every pen has several buckets of water  changed daily (heated in the winter)

Dry goats no grain unless need it for condition.

Bucks get grass hay only and limited paddock browse

kids bottlefed til 3 months, then hay and Poulin sweet goat (right now 6 month old doelings eating about 2 cups a day or so, giving the buckling no grain right now reconsidering how we are feeding bucklings! Free access to grass hay and limited browse/pasture

Winter we add vegies, squash, carrot, fruits   because of no pasture/browse available. Bring them in branches to strip bark occasionally when they look bored.

baking soda given as needed( given free choice when first introduce pasture in spring) 

(Been leary to try loose minerals again, goats ate it by the fistfuls and milk tasted terrible), Have been using a berry flavored goat mineral block which they eat up pretty fast


----------



## Roll farms

Location:  N. Central Indiana 

Raise:  Nubians, Toggs, 1 Ob - Boers, Kikos, and crosses

Purpose:  dairy, show, pets

Seasonal changes:  yup - a lot more hay in winter, more corn in the grain mix in winter.

Browse:  grass, weeds, whatever comes up in their 1 acre pasture - also what I cut for them 1x a week in the 'back 40' when I clean fence rows.

Hay:  alfalfa/grass mix

Feed:  bucks, kids - Purina Noble Goat w/ a little BOSS (recently started experimenting w/ flaxseed meal)

Does:  50% Goat Chow, 20% Alf. pellets, 20% corn (more in winter), 10% BOSS (again experimenting w/ flaxseed meal - just started last week, dunno if it'll last)

Milk Stand:  same as above - super productive / skinnies get topdressed w/ Calf Manna (and there's that one doe who won't take ANYTHING but corn on the stand.  She'll dump the pan if there's anything else in it...the heifer....)

Supplements:  copper and BoSe - everyone - boys get a pinch of AC 1 or 2x a week.

Mineral:  ADM Goat Power free choice 2x a week, topdressed daily


----------



## aggieterpkatie

I feed tin cans and newspaper.


----------



## helmstead

aggieterpkatie said:
			
		

> I feed tin cans and newspaper.


----------



## elevan

aggieterpkatie said:
			
		

> I feed tin cans and newspaper.





_
I know I said no one is wrong on this thread...but..._ 

aggieterpkatie, would you care to give your full feeding practices in addition to those cans and newspapers


----------



## SDGsoap&dairy

Don't forget old leather boots.


----------



## 20kidsonhill

I need a good laugh this morning. A doeling that hasn't been doing very well since she was born in March, Something seems wrong with her. Finallly gave up her fight this morning.  I get to bury my first goat in two years.    Keep bringing on the humor folks.  

Speaking of eating anything, we were talking to a gentlemen the other day, and he was telling us how his kids show animals (4H meat goats) were eating really well and what feed he was using, then he commenced to tell us how they were also eating a trailor peice by peice. OH yah he said, " the walls, the insulation, the carpeting."   No I am not making this up just to change the subject.  He was really telling us this.  I have never been to his place. could you imagine??????


----------



## PattySh

20kids, Very sorry to hear you lost your doeling.


----------



## rockdoveranch

Elevan,

What a great idea for a thread!  I am loving it!  Can I steal your idea and start the same thread under sheep?

20kids, 

I am so sorry for your loss.


----------



## elevan

rockdoveranch said:
			
		

> Elevan,
> 
> What a great idea for a thread!  I am loving it!  Can I steal your idea and start the same thread under sheep?


Go ahead


----------



## elevan

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> I need a good laugh this morning. A doeling that hasn't been doing very well since she was born in March, Something seems wrong with her. Finallly gave up her fight this morning.  I get to bury my first goat in two years.    Keep bringing on the humor folks.


  I'm really sorry to hear about your doeling  



> Speaking of eating anything, we were talking to a gentlemen the other day, and he was telling us how his kids show animals (4H meat goats) were eating really well and what feed he was using, *then he commenced to tell us how they were also eating a trailor peice by peice. OH yah he said, " the walls, the insulation, the carpeting."*   No I am not making this up just to change the subject.  He was really telling us this.  I have never been to his place. could you imagine??????


  And just why would he _*let *_them do that??!!??  Seriously, my goats will try to eat a plastic bag if you have one in your hands...if a piece of plastic blows into their field you have to get it before they do.  They'll try to chew on my clothes when I'm wearing cotton or linen...they don't bother man-made fibers   But I would never let them eat a trailor!


----------



## elevan

_Ok...let's get back to the real topic...focus people!_ 

Who else would like to share their real feeding practices?  Or does anyone have questions regarding someone's practices already posted?

I know that they are more organic, natural and custom feeders on this forum...come on out of hiding...we want to hear what you have to say too  

No one is wrong on this thread (_unless you feed tin cans and old leather boots_   )


----------



## Goatherd

> No one is wrong on this thread (unless you feed tin cans and old leather boots   )


Exactly.  And that's why I haven't posted.


----------



## 20kidsonhill

I will be lazy and not look up flaxseed so you flaxseed experts can share with me the fat/protein and fiber of the grain.  The bag of BOss that I am almost out of is 9%protein/20%fat, oh shoot I forget the fiber.  I will look when I get a chance.


----------



## maggies.family

BOSS.....what is it?  I keep seeing it in almost every post.  

Also, I just talked to the family we are getting our goats from and apparently they feed them Nutrena Naturewise Top Goat, does anyone know anything about it?  Is it ok?  Do you feel there is something better?  If so, suggestions?


----------



## SDGsoap&dairy

Black Oil Sunflower Seeds


----------



## aggieterpkatie

elevan said:
			
		

> aggieterpkatie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feed tin cans and newspaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> I know I said no one is wrong on this thread...but..._
> 
> aggieterpkatie, would you care to give your full feeding practices in addition to those cans and newspapers
Click to expand...

Mine is pretty boring. I live in MD and have a few Oberhaslis.  For my doe in milk I feed alfalfa, pasture, and a 16% dairy goat ration (a sweet feed *gasp* ).  For my young'uns I actually feed a medicated sheep feed b/c I also have sheep, and I give copper boluses to the goats.  The buck gets hay only, but used to get a little grain when he was younger.  Everyone gets hay, sometimes free choice (young animals) and sometimes not free choice just a set amount.  And everyone is supplemented (when I have time) with trimmings from my Paper Mulberry hedge.....a very invasive weed which was used to feed deer in Islamabad where it is from.  We have a crapload of it growing, and it's a favorite among the animals. Even the rabbit loves it!


----------



## herdnerd

Thank you everyone for your valuable information.  I have had my 2 Nigerian babies (18 and 10 weeks old) for two weeks.  Almost everything I have learned has been from these forums.  This thread in particular has been excellent.  I am learning what I have not been doing and seeing what I have been doing right!

one question - how is flax seed a substitute for BOSS?  I understand the price issue but nutritionally how are they similar (actually I can see how flax would be better).


----------



## SDGsoap&dairy

herdnerd said:
			
		

> Thank you everyone for your valuable information.  I have had my 2 Nigerian babies (18 and 10 weeks old) for two weeks.  Almost everything I have learned has been from these forums.  This thread in particular has been excellent.  I am learning what I have not been doing and seeing what I have been doing right!
> 
> one question - how is flax seed a substitute for BOSS?  I understand the price issue but nutritionally how are they similar (actually I can see how flax would be better).


The high fat content.


----------



## elevan

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> I will be lazy and not look up flaxseed so you flaxseed experts can share with me the fat/protein and fiber of the grain.  The bag of BOss that I am almost out of is 9%protein/20%fat, oh shoot I forget the fiber.  I will look when I get a chance.


I got impatient and looked it up...

*Flax seed Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)*
Energy 	2,234 kJ (534 kcal)
Carbohydrates 	28.88 g
- Sugars 	1.55 g
- Dietary fiber 	27.3 g
Fat 	42.16 g
Protein 	18.29 g
Thiamine (Vit. B1) 	1.644 mg 
Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 	0.161 mg 
Niacin (Vit. B3) 	3.08 mg 
Pantothenic acid (B5) 	0.985 mg 
Vitamin B6 	0.473 mg 
Folate (Vit. B9) 	0 μg 
Vitamin C 	0.6 mg 
Calcium 	255 mg 
Iron 	5.73 mg 
Magnesium 	392 mg 
Phosphorus 	642 mg 
Potassium 	813 mg 
Zinc 	4.34 mg 



`````````````````````````````````````````````````

*Black Oil Sunflower Seed kernels, dried Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)*
Energy 	2,385 kJ (570 kcal)
Carbohydrates 	18.76 g
- Sugars 	2.62 g
- Dietary fiber 	10.5 g
Fat 	49.57 g
- saturated 	5.20 g
- monounsaturated 	9.46 g
- polyunsaturated 	32.74 g
Protein 	22.78 g
Thiamine (Vit. B1) 	2.29 mg 
Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 	0.25 mg 
Niacin (Vit. B3) 	4.5 mg 
Pantothenic acid (B5) 	6.75 mg 
Vitamin B6 	0.77 mg
Folate (Vit. B9) 	227 μg 
Vitamin C 	1.4 mg 
Vitamin E 	34.50 mg 
Calcium 	116 mg 
Iron 	6.77 mg 
Magnesium 	354 mg 
Manganese 	2.02 mg 
Phosphorus 	705 mg 
Potassium 	689 mg 
Sodium 	3 mg 
Zinc 	5.06 mg


----------



## journeysend

I have been reading this thread and I have a question, if you don't mind me asking. What is the maximum percentage of fat (from a pelleted feed) that you would feed to your goats? I have been looking at this feed, even though it's for horses, and there is a min of 10% fat... so is this too much? I don't supplement with BOSS or anything, except for Purina Goat Minerals free choice. For all those interested the feed is Purina Horseman's Edge Texture 10:10. I have dairy goats and they could use a little weight on them.


----------



## 20kidsonhill

journeysend said:
			
		

> I have been reading this thread and I have a question, if you don't mind me asking. What is the maximum percentage of fat (from a pelleted feed) that you would feed to your goats? I have been looking at this feed, even though it's for horses, and there is a min of 10% fat... so is this too much? I don't supplement with BOSS or anything, except for Purina Goat Minerals free choice. For all those interested the feed is Purina Horseman's Edge Texture 10:10. I have dairy goats and they could use a little weight on them.


that is a good question, I would love to hear the experts opinions.  I would think 4.5 on a regular basis would be plenty high enough. Just a guess.


----------



## elevan

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> journeysend said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been reading this thread and I have a question, if you don't mind me asking. What is the maximum percentage of fat (from a pelleted feed) that you would feed to your goats? I have been looking at this feed, even though it's for horses, and there is a min of 10% fat... so is this too much? I don't supplement with BOSS or anything, except for Purina Goat Minerals free choice. For all those interested the feed is Purina Horseman's Edge Texture 10:10. I have dairy goats and they could use a little weight on them.
> 
> 
> 
> that is a good question, I would love to hear the experts opinions.  I would think 4.5 on a regular basis would be plenty high enough. Just a guess.
Click to expand...

The highest minimum I've ever seen on a goat feed for fat is 4.3%...most are usually at 2.4% - 3.6% minimum...

A 10% minimum fat may be too high...

I suppose it depends on the breed of goat that you have too.  My pygmies don't need a lot to put on weight...10% fat would probably have them looking like PIG-mies instead


----------



## journeysend

> *elevan wrote:*
> 
> I suppose it depends on the breed of goat that you have too.  My pygmies don't need a lot to put on weight...10% fat would probably have them looking like PIG-mies instead


Well I have Nigerians/mixes, a Nubian and an Oberhasli. I bought a bag of this feed to try and they seem to eat much less of it, but are satisfied throughout the day, if that makes sense. I've tried Noble Goat, Dumor Goat, Dumor Mare and Foal, and of course the generic "All-Stock" feeds... and they will cry all day long for food  I am using less than half of what I was with the other feeds. So, I'm not sure if there is too much fat but it seems to me that if they are only eating half as much, then the fat content should be approximately the same as other feeds... I may be wrong, this was just my reasoning on the matter.


----------



## elevan

maggies.family said:
			
		

> BOSS.....what is it?  I keep seeing it in almost every post.
> 
> Also, I just talked to the family we are getting our goats from and apparently they feed them Nutrena Naturewise Top Goat, does anyone know anything about it?  Is it ok?  Do you feel there is something better?  If so, suggestions?


BOSS = Black Oil Sunflower Seeds

Here's what I found on that feed:


> Nutrena Naturewise Top Goat
> 
> Size/Dimensions: 50 lb. bag
> Naturewise Goat Feed is designed to be fed to starting, growing, breeding, and lactating goats.
> Provides sufficient protein for lactating and growing goats
> Provides a balanced calcium/phosphorous ratio and added ammonium chloride to help prevent urinary calculi.
> Features
> Highly palatable to encourage rapid intake and growth of early-weaned kids.
> Balanced energy and protein to aid in optimum growth.
> Fortified with vitamins and minerals to help provide the nutrients needed for growth.
> Limited copper to help minimize risk of copper toxicity.
> Complete feed that can be fed as the sole ration or with limited roughage for the entire life of the kid; or as a protein and energy feed for breeding or lactating does.


Please note that the reason for this thread (topic) is to discuss everyone's different feeding practices.  No one is wrong in their decisions of what to feed.  You'll need to do your homework and decide what you want to accomplish for your farm and your herd.  And make your choices based on that.

My concerns when looking at this feed is that most of the United States is copper deficient and this feed clearly states that it has limited copper.  It also suggests that it can be the sole source of feed with little or no roughage...I would do some more research before you make your decision.

If you decide to switch to a different feed you want to do it slowly.  So in the beginning you'll want to continue with this feed so as not to upset their systems.


----------



## elevan

aggieterpkatie said:
			
		

> Mine is pretty boring. I live in MD and have a few Oberhaslis.  For my doe in milk I feed alfalfa, pasture, and a 16% dairy goat ration (a sweet feed *gasp*  ).  For my young'uns I actually feed a medicated sheep feed b/c I also have sheep, and I give copper boluses to the goats.  The buck gets hay only, but used to get a little grain when he was younger.  Everyone gets hay, sometimes free choice (young animals) and sometimes not free choice just a set amount.  And everyone is supplemented (when I have time) with trimmings from my Paper Mulberry hedge.....a very invasive weed which was used to feed deer in Islamabad where it is from.  We have a crapload of it growing, and it's a favorite among the animals. Even the rabbit loves it!


I have a few questions for you:
How long have you been doing the practice of feeding the medicated sheep feed to the kids and copper bolusing?
How often do you copper bolus?



An interesting article on Paper Mulberry  being turned into silage for anyone who wants to read it.


----------



## elevan

journeysend said:
			
		

> *elevan wrote:*
> 
> I suppose it depends on the breed of goat that you have too.  My pygmies don't need a lot to put on weight...10% fat would probably have them looking like PIG-mies instead
> 
> 
> 
> Well I have Nigerians/mixes, a Nubian and an Oberhasli. I bought a bag of this feed to try and they seem to eat much less of it, but are satisfied throughout the day, if that makes sense. I've tried Noble Goat, Dumor Goat, Dumor Mare and Foal, and of course the generic "All-Stock" feeds... and they will cry all day long for food  I am using less than half of what I was with the other feeds. So, I'm not sure if there is too much fat but it seems to me that if they are only eating half as much, then the fat content should be approximately the same as other feeds... I may be wrong, this was just my reasoning on the matter.
Click to expand...

Makes sense.  Please keep us posted on your progress and let us know if you decide to make any changes.

I don't think you've shared your full feeding practice with us...would you care to share?
_Be sure to include what state / country / region that you are in.
What specifically are you feeding?  What are you adding to supplement it?  And how does your feeding program change seasonally?
Please include or edit to include the type(s) of goats that you raise_


----------



## elevan

Goatherd said:
			
		

> No one is wrong on this thread (unless you feed tin cans and old leather boots   )
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.  And that's why I haven't posted.
Click to expand...



Come on Goatherd...I wanna hear what your feeding practices are


----------



## maggies.family

elevan said:
			
		

> maggies.family said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BOSS.....what is it?  I keep seeing it in almost every post.
> 
> Also, I just talked to the family we are getting our goats from and apparently they feed them Nutrena Naturewise Top Goat, does anyone know anything about it?  Is it ok?  Do you feel there is something better?  If so, suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> BOSS = Black Oil Sunflower Seeds
> 
> Here's what I found on that feed:
> 
> 
> 
> Nutrena Naturewise Top Goat
> 
> Size/Dimensions: 50 lb. bag
> Naturewise Goat Feed is designed to be fed to starting, growing, breeding, and lactating goats.
> Provides sufficient protein for lactating and growing goats
> Provides a balanced calcium/phosphorous ratio and added ammonium chloride to help prevent urinary calculi.
> Features
> Highly palatable to encourage rapid intake and growth of early-weaned kids.
> Balanced energy and protein to aid in optimum growth.
> Fortified with vitamins and minerals to help provide the nutrients needed for growth.
> Limited copper to help minimize risk of copper toxicity.
> Complete feed that can be fed as the sole ration or with limited roughage for the entire life of the kid; or as a protein and energy feed for breeding or lactating does.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Please note that the reason for this thread (topic) is to discuss everyone's different feeding practices.  No one is wrong in their decisions of what to feed.  You'll need to do your homework and decide what you want to accomplish for your farm and your herd.  And make your choices based on that.
> 
> My concerns when looking at this feed is that most of the United States is copper deficient and this feed clearly states that it has limited copper.  It also suggests that it can be the sole source of feed with little or no roughage...I would do some more research before you make your decision.
> 
> If you decide to switch to a different feed you want to do it slowly.  So in the beginning you'll want to continue with this feed so as not to upset their systems.
Click to expand...

Thank you elevan.  I have to admit, reading through these threads is making me a bit nervous!  It just seems so complicated!  So many options out there and I haven't a clue.  LOL  I did order that book you suggested last night.  Looking forward to that.  Now I am just scouring trying to figure out the basics they need for feeding and then go from there.  I'm sure it wont feel as intimidating once I start "getting it".


----------



## willowbreezefarm

Awesome idea for a thread!! I love reading and seeing how everyone elses routines are around there barn.

Here is my feeding routine:

Location: Virginia in the Valley very close to WV line.

Breed raised: Nigerian Dwarfs and Pygmys

I always practice fresh clean cold water in the summer and I use two heated water buckets for warm water in the winter.

Summer: 1 cup twice a day of our local Co-Op's goat grain. It is made with local minerals needed in our area and it is NOT medicated and it is only made in a sweet grain only. They get one scoop of BOSS with every meal.
They do get to go out and browse in the field everyday and they browse on 7 acres with some wooded areas.

Winter: Depending on my goats weight by winter I may bump there grain ration up but this is rare since my goats seem to do well on just one cup twice a day. Again I still feed the goat grain from our local co-op. They seem to like that very well and I havent had any issues with it yet. They also get one scoop of BOSS with there meal.

I dont use the loose minerals my goats dont seem to like it as well as the Billy block I get them from TSC. So I have two of those up in the barn. I do not feed baking soda free choice unless one of my goats are showing signs of upset stomach.

I give the annual CD&T shot once a every year.

I like to worm twice a year, it seems to work well for my girls. I worm in the spring with the Safe Gaurd horse tubed paste and the fall I use the generic Ivermectin horse tubed paste. You are proberly wondering how I get the correct dosage? Well you weigh your goat and take the weight of your goat and x by 3 and you get the weight you use on the tube. I have not had any issues with worms using this method and my goats have been fine with using horse paste. Plus horse paste is CHEAPER then buying one small goat liquid wormer.

They do get there hooves trimmed regularly.

My goats LOVE leaves and beet stems/leaves as treats. They sometimes take carrots and apples too. 

Well this is what I do. May not seem like much but its what works for my herd.

Oh forgot to mention... I also like to take my goats on walks.. Hope that is not weird but all of our goats walk on leashes and so we like to walk them. They love it cause they get to browse as we walk and its also good exercise for them 

My next goal is to get a LGD. We have a area in VA that is an adoption place for the Great Paranesse dogs and sometimes they have young dogs and pups there for adoption. I would much rather adopt then buy from a breeder. But we will see..


----------



## aggieterpkatie

elevan said:
			
		

> aggieterpkatie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is pretty boring. I live in MD and have a few Oberhaslis.  For my doe in milk I feed alfalfa, pasture, and a 16% dairy goat ration (a sweet feed *gasp*  ).  For my young'uns I actually feed a medicated sheep feed b/c I also have sheep, and I give copper boluses to the goats.  The buck gets hay only, but used to get a little grain when he was younger.  Everyone gets hay, sometimes free choice (young animals) and sometimes not free choice just a set amount.  And everyone is supplemented (when I have time) with trimmings from my Paper Mulberry hedge.....a very invasive weed which was used to feed deer in Islamabad where it is from.  We have a crapload of it growing, and it's a favorite among the animals. Even the rabbit loves it!
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions for you:
> How long have you been doing the practice of feeding the medicated sheep feed to the kids and copper bolusing?
> How often do you copper bolus?
> 
> 
> 
> An interesting article on Paper Mulberry  being turned into silage for anyone who wants to read it.
Click to expand...

Well, way back before I "knew any better" I had a Nub/Alpine wether with my sheep flock and he ate the same thing the sheep ate...medicated sheep feed and no copper boluses or anything. He never had a problem with UC, never had a problem with lack of copper.  Maybe I was lucky, who knows.  My kids don't get much grain, maybe a half pound a day if that.  They're only about 4 months old, and I bolused them at weaning time.  They're not going to stay on grain long, just until I see they're big enough to come off it.  My doe I copper bolused in Jan or Feb and haven't since. She had some weird curly rough hair coat after I bolused, so I'm still not sold on the idea of bolusing regularly.


----------



## Goatmasta

I don't remember where I found it anymore(I do remember it was a little difficult to find), but I have a "Feed Mix Calculator" it is an excel file.  It calculates protein, fat, fiber, calcium, and phosphorus.  So you just list the weights and details of your feed, boss, hay etc...   and it tells you what the combined levels of your mix are..   If any one is interested let me know and I will email it to you.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

Goatmasta said:
			
		

> I don't remember where I found it anymore(I do remember it was a little difficult to find), but I have a "Feed Mix Calculator" it is an excel file.  It calculates protein, fat, fiber, calcium, and phosphorus.  So you just list the weights and details of your feed, boss, hay etc...   and it tells you what the combined levels of your mix are..   If any one is interested let me know and I will email it to you.


That sound like an awesome file to have... please email it to me.   My dad had done something similar for a grocery shopping list once... and also one for the diet he was on, as a calorie/fat/carb/sodium tracker 

I agree with Elevan, please share your location, breed, and feeding practices


----------



## journeysend

Location:  South Georgia (close to GA/FL line)
Goats raised: 6 Nigerian Dwarf (all mixes), 1 Nubian, 1 Oberhasli

I have only had these goats since the beginning of March, so this has been what I'm doing so far... For the past 4 years I raised a few Boers and did things totally different.

Spring-Fall:
Purina Horseman's Edge Texture 10:10 (about 1/3 a gallon pitcher once a day for everyone, I don't know the weight)
Coastal Bermuda/Alfafa 1 flake per day (whatever is available at my local feed store)
Purina Goat Minerals free choice
I was supplementing with Goat Balancer when I was using a feed that didn't contain what I needed
They also get to browse

I tend to feed everyone together in a big trough. I do have a few extra bowls scattered about that I use to let some of them eat. All of the ones that I currently have are actually really good about sharing... I creep feed my 2 three week old Nigerian mix kids, they don't eat much but they like to pick at the food/hay. I also give a little extra grain to my Nubian/Nigerian mix doe because I milk her.

This winter I plan to do things the same, except maybe increase the grain a little but use hay as the main source of feed.

Treats:
Pecan leaves
They are weird about fruits/veggies, I haven't found anything yet that all of them will eat


----------



## elevan

Livinwright Farm said:
			
		

> Goatmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't remember where I found it anymore(I do remember it was a little difficult to find), but I have a "Feed Mix Calculator" it is an excel file.  It calculates protein, fat, fiber, calcium, and phosphorus.  So you just list the weights and details of your feed, boss, hay etc...   and it tells you what the combined levels of your mix are..   If any one is interested let me know and I will email it to you.
> 
> 
> 
> That sound like an awesome file to have... please email it to me.   My dad had done something similar for a grocery shopping list once... and also one for the diet he was on, as a calorie/fat/carb/sodium tracker
> 
> I agree with Elevan, please share your location, breed, and feeding practices
Click to expand...

Here are a couple of calculators from the Langston University for everyone...they are online based and not a spreadsheet.
RATION BALANCER AND NUTRIENT REQUIREMENT CALCULATOR 
Total Mixed Ration Calculator


Here's some information from the University of Maryland that may be helpful to those wanting to formulate their own custom mixes:


----------



## ChickenPotPie

Location: Hollister, California (south of San Francisco bay, east of Monterrey bay)
Goats raised:  Dairy/show (Toggenburg)

Winter/Spring:
Orchard/Alfalfa hay
Weeds (don't know what kind - mostly grassy)
Purina Goat Mineral (loose, free fed)
Purina Goat Chow Goat Feed (sweet feed) About 8 cups for does we are milking, maybe 1 cup for kids, almost none for bucks and weathers
water

Summer/Fall:
Orchard/Alfalfa hay
Purina Goat Mineral (loose, free fed)
Purina Goat Chow Goat Feed (sweet feed) About 8 cups for does we are milking, maybe 1 cup for kids, almost none for bucks, and weathers
water

That's it.  

I'm open to suggestions with reasoning behind them.  I like to learn.  Questions:  Is this type of hay mixture okay for all does, kids, bucks, wethers?  What other types of hay are good for diary goats?  What types would you consider bad or poor for dairy goats?  Do you suggest bucks and wethers eat a different hay other than Orchard/Alfalfa?  What are the benefits of the hay you suggest in comparison to what they are eating now?


----------



## Goatmasta

Sure.

Location:  SW Indiana (also was N GA - nothing really changed other than hay - we fed fescue/orchard hay in GA)

Raise:  Nubians, Mini-Nubians and Nigerians
Purpose:  dairy, showing

Seasonal changes:  nope

Browse:  dry lot, no browse

Hay:  alfalfa/orchard/clover mix, home grown

Feed:  (by group)
Herd-general (includes bucks & creep):  ADM Meat Goat Power 16% pelleted (Deccox & AC) 

Show Prep/Late Gestation/Lactation (can include bucks):  ADM pelleted above + alfalfa pellets + 36% complete concentrate 

Milk Stand:  12% semi-sweet high end horse feed with oats

Supplements:  copper & selenium boluses as needed

Mineral:  ADM Meat Maker loose

   I have 60+ goats, and go through a little over 2000lbs of feed a month, and about 65-70 square bales of hay a month And only God knows how much milk for the bottle babies.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

Oops! I just realized that you thought I was meaning you, Ben... I know Kate already posted.  Oh well.
I was actually seconding the call for info from Goatherd.  I should have posted their name in that sentence.


----------



## Goatherd

Edited/deleted because I didn't want to answer in the first place and now I'm definitely sorry I did.


----------



## elevan

Goatherd - would you mind reposting that treat recipe and picture here?
I was thinking I might try baking the copasure rods into the treats and seeing how they take them... :/


----------



## Goatherd

Not a problem...


Here's a link to the actual recipe.  http://www.hobbyfarms.com/food-and-kitchen/cookies-hobby-farm-goat.aspx 

I've made these so many times I will tell you that I have added and deleted ingredients from the original recipe, because to be honest, I didn't really like the original recipe.  If you do make it exactly, you'll find the batter too wet/moist.

Here's what I've done...

I didn't use the wheat germ as I didn't have any to start with.
I ground flax seed for added benefit.  Instead of the applesauce I used apples.
Used a food processor to chop the carrots and apples as this makes them the perfect consistency.  Threw in a handful of raisins.
Added an individual carton of plain yogurt.  Use whole wheat flour to add substance to the dough.  
You need to make the dough very stiff.

They tell you to put "balls" on a cookie sheet.  They will not flatten on their own so I flattened them like you would a peanut butter cookie.
I also used a cookie scoop to make them consistent in size, but that certainly isn't necessary.

I also baked them on parchment paper to prevent any sticking and this works great.  I increased the oven temp to 350 and turned the treats over after about 20 minutes of baking and continued to bake them.  They take longer to bake than what the recipe tells you, but I can't give you an exact time.  You have to wing it.  Trust me, you won't over bake them.  They also get harder as they cool. 
I would describe them as hard/chewy.

They need to be kept refrigerated if you keep them for a while.  Found out the hard way and they got moldy being left out, even in a plastic container


----------



## 20kidsonhill

We just consulted with a local farmer, who is a big big big farmer in this area, and we discussed fat amount in feed for lactating animals. He recommends we switch to a feed with 15 % protein and 4.5 % fat. We will have to have one made for us and order it by the ton, since there are no feed that will meet these requirements locally.  We are going to try it this February, when we start kidding out for 2012.  

He said and I quote, " what the heck are you wasting you time for feeding beet pulp?"  and Boss is too expensive, a waste of money.  ONe might say he doesn't know what he is talking about, other that the fact that he has a huge farm, sheep, but still they aren't that much different, And dropping 10,000 on a breeding ram is not unherd of for him, infact 20,000 isn't unherd of.  I don't think I will be spending $17 for a 25 lb bag of Boss any time soon.  Although the girls sure did like it. 

Just sharing with you. He came over and fixed a prolapsed lamb for us, yesterday, and we got on the subject of feed.


----------



## helmstead

I don't bother with BOSS and beet pulp anymore either.  Tried it, then realized I was spending $ to dress up a bad feed...when we started spending $ to buy a good feed (or, I guess I should say, the best feed for OUR needs) in the first place, there was no longer a need to supplement BOSS and beet pulp.  So, I get it


----------



## jodief100

helmstead said:
			
		

> I don't bother with BOSS and beet pulp anymore either.  Tried it, then realized I was spending $ to dress up a bad feed...when we started spending $ to buy a good feed (or, I guess I should say, the best feed for OUR needs) in the first place, there was no longer a need to supplement BOSS and beet pulp.  So, I get it


I agree completely.  If you have the best feed available, buy it and don't worry about anything else.  I do not use enough feed to buy it by the ton so I am stuck with whatever 50lb bag of stuff Tractor Supply carries.  

Some day maybe........  Until then, I will "dress up"  what is available.


----------



## freemotion

I feed beet pulp on the milking stand only to slow the does down to give me time.  I actually am not feeding it now that I have the machine.  Love the machine!  Thanks, Mike Perry of www.perrysmilkers.com !!!   But dh milks for me on Tues nights when I am gone until 11 PM to my teaching job and he is a bit slower about things since he only milks once a week.  I store it in a five gallon pail and it will come in handy if we lose power and I have to milk....my hands ache and I get slower and slower with each doe, especially the ff's!


----------



## freemotion

> Be sure to include what state / country / region that you are in.
> 
> What specifically are you feeding?  What are you adding to supplement it?  And how does your feeding program change seasonally?
> 
> eta:  Please include or edit to include the type(s) of goats that you raise


Western MA, cold winters and shorter but hot summers.  

My current small herd consists of an Alpine buck and four does in milk.  My goals are homestead dual-purpose goats, so huge production is a negative as those does seem to need more maintenance, so I am happy with moderate production.  I am getting a bit more than 2 gallons a day from the four does, two are first-fresheners.  One doe is an Alpine (or mixed breed, mostly Alpine) rescue who is high maintenance and is CAE-positive and will eventually be culled to a pet home.  I hope to be down to four total by winter.  Oh, and as for dual purpose.....I am no closer to being able to eat any of my own goats than I was a couple years ago, and sold 7 kids to pet homes and my 2 best doelings to a young couple with similar goals, so if I can do this each year, I don't need them to really be dual purpose. 

Hay 24/7 in winter, summer drought, bad weather.  I try to get alfalfa/grass mix but sometimes can only get grass hay, then I supplement with expensive alfalfa pellets.  My pasture is great now so only the buck is getting hay as he is confined to a smaller pen.  I tried rotating him into the pasture but he just tears up the fencing and doesn't spend much time eating.  I scythe some grass for him once a day most days.

Babies get hay, their own pasture, and leafy branches tied up in their stall nightly until they go to their new homes.

Everyone gets fresh water at least twice a day, with buckets scrubbed as needed, often in the summer.  I use an insulated bucket with warm water in the winter.  

Everyone has free access to loose minerals and I copper bolused this past spring (still learning!) and now have a bottle of BoSe in my fridge to use as needed.

I use herbal dewormer, run my own fecals, and have a bottle of Ivomec in the fridge and will not hesitate to use it as needed.  So far, the buck needed it once when he first arrived as a baby, and the above-mentioned Alpine doe has needed it once a year.  I am curious to see how her daughter does, as her sire was a purebred La Mancha from show lines with prize-winning udders.

My main grain that I feed is soaked/sprouted oats, although I prefer barley with the higher protein levels when I can get it. 

Everyone was a bit down this spring after a batch of grass hay that looked gorgeous but was really great horse hay.  I am supplementing with BOSS but only use that as needed.  It really helps.

The ff that had triplets is still thin and I was going to dry her off when her kids were weaned (today is the big day!) but on a whim I started adding the digestive enzymes that I use for myself to her grain twice a day.  She has gained 6 pounds in the past week!  So if this continues I may keep milking her.  Everyone else gets a half cup of BOSS a day and she gets two cups, she also gets about 4-5 cups of the oats and about the same of alfalfa pellets.  I have to wait for her to eat every day, so I milk her last and get everything filtered and cleaned up and STILL have to wait!  I pet her and massage her and tell her how beautiful she is to get her to eat more.  I don't believe in pampering my goats.  That is not practical.  

ETA:  Seasonal changes.....no hay on nice days when there is a lot of pasture.  I chop up pumpkins and squashes for them from Nov 1 until they run out, sometimes as late as the end of Feb.  I get them free from the farm next door the day after Halloween and store as many as I can get my hands on.  I work the does up to about 2-3 quarts of chopped pumpkins with the seeds per day.  We also feed any good peelings and scraps from preparing veggies/fruit for our own table and a friend saves hers for me, too.


----------



## elevan

I found an organic feed that looks interesting to me...does anyone use it or have input on it?



> Countryside's 13% Goat Feed is made with top quality organic grains to boost milk or meat production. Also contains organic alfalfa, flaxseed, and Thorvin kelp, and has 4% fat and 8% fiber. Healthy goats are happy goats!
> 
> Crude protein, minimum............................................15.00%
> Crude fat, minimum.....................................................4.00%
> Crude fiber, maximum.................................................8.00%
> 
> INGREDIENTS
> Organic Field Peas, Organic Barley, Organic Oats, Organic Alfalfa Meal, Organic Wheat, Organic Flaxseed, Organic Rice Bran, Organic Corn, Sodium Silico Aluminate, Dried Organic Kelp, Organic Coconut Oil, Salt, Condensed Corn Fermentation Solubles*, Dicalcium Phosphate, Monocalcium Phosphate, Sea Shell Flour, Dried Lactobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation Product, Condensed Lactobacillus Fermentation Solubles, Magnesium Oxide, Potassium Chloride, Yeast Culture, Sodium Selenite, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (source of Vitamin K activity), d-Calcium Pantothenate, Potassium Magnesium Sulfate, Zinc Polysaccharide Complex, Manganese Polysaccharide Complex, Iron Polysaccharide Complex, Copper Polysaccharide Complex, Cobalt Polysaccharide Complex, Niacin, Riboflavin, Thiamine, Folic Acid, Selenium Yeast.
> 
> FEEDING DIRECTIONS:
> Feed as needed to supplement nutritional intake.
> 
> Certified organic by
> Global Organic Alliance, Inc.


----------



## SDGsoap&dairy

I've just recently added beet pulp and I've been thrilled with the results.  BUT, it's absolutely NOT a substitute for good quality feed and plenty of good quality alfalfa.  It's crazy to me to go cheap on grain, then start spending money on supplements to fill in the gaps.  Most of the herd maintains perfectly fine without BOSS or beet pulp, just plenty of alfalfa and good grass hay and grain for those who need it.  That said, I have a buck who's not the easiest of keepers and there are couple different ways I could have gone about bulking him up... what we chose to do is up his alfalfa and add beet pulp and continue with the small amount of grain he's getting rather than to up the grain.  For sure not the only way to have gone about it, but I will say that we have been so pleased with the results and with how quickly he's putting on flesh.  We're also feeding it to a couple lactating does we purchased recently who aren't quite as plump as we like them around here.  I love the high digestibility of the fiber and the extra calories it's giving them without having to push grain so heavily.  It's also cah balanced (6:1), so I can add calories without worrying about ratios.


----------



## ChickenPotPie

ChickenPotPie said:
			
		

> I'm open to suggestions with reasoning behind them.  I like to learn.  Questions:  Is this type of hay mixture okay for all does, kids, bucks, wethers?  What other types of hay are good for diary goats?  What types would you consider bad or poor for dairy goats?  Do you suggest bucks and wethers eat a different hay other than Orchard/Alfalfa?  What are the benefits of the hay you suggest in comparison to what they are eating now?


So what do you all think?  We're giving Orchard/Alfalfa now.  We've also given pure Alfalfa.  What do you think s best for dairy goats - does, kids, bucks, wethers?  And are other hays appropriate?

I just found a hay company I can buy directly from.  They have:
- Alfalfa
- Timothy
- Orchard grass
- Orchard grass (70%)/Alfalfa (30%)
- Forage mix (Oat, Beardless Barley, Beardless Wheat)
- Oat

Thoughts?


----------



## elevan

ChickenPotPie said:
			
		

> ChickenPotPie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm open to suggestions with reasoning behind them.  I like to learn.  Questions:  Is this type of hay mixture okay for all does, kids, bucks, wethers?  What other types of hay are good for diary goats?  What types would you consider bad or poor for dairy goats?  Do you suggest bucks and wethers eat a different hay other than Orchard/Alfalfa?  What are the benefits of the hay you suggest in comparison to what they are eating now?
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you all think?  We're giving Orchard/Alfalfa now.  We've also given pure Alfalfa.  What do you think s best for dairy goats - does, kids, bucks, wethers?  And are other hays appropriate?
> 
> I just found a hay company I can buy directly from.  They have:
> - Alfalfa
> - Timothy
> - Orchard grass
> - Orchard grass (70%)/Alfalfa (30%)
> - Forage mix (Oat, Beardless Barley, Beardless Wheat)
> - Oat
> 
> Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Personally I'm happy with my orchard grass / clover / alfalfa mix.  So, I'd tell you to go with the mix you've been using unless you've been unhappy with it for some reason.
It's great that you have a hay supplier who offers you so many choices though


----------



## ChickenPotPie

elevan said:
			
		

> Personally I'm happy with my orchard grass / clover / alfalfa mix.  So, I'd tell you to go with the mix you've been using unless you've been unhappy with it for some reason.
> It's great that you have a hay supplier who offers you so many choices though


Thank you.    The goats seem to like the orchard/alfalfa mix just fine.  I was just thinking that the bucks and wethers were supposed to be eating something else and the does might be better off just getting pure alfalfa.


----------



## elevan

ChickenPotPie said:
			
		

> elevan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I'm happy with my orchard grass / clover / alfalfa mix.  So, I'd tell you to go with the mix you've been using unless you've been unhappy with it for some reason.
> It's great that you have a hay supplier who offers you so many choices though
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.    The goats seem to like the orchard/alfalfa mix just fine.  I was just thinking that the bucks and wethers were supposed to be eating something else and the does might be better off just getting pure alfalfa.
Click to expand...

The good thing about your supplier is that you can add a few extra bales of straight alfalfa for your does if you want   My boys do fine with the mixed hay.  I do supplement alfalfa pellets to the girls when they need it (the ones that will eat them that is   )


----------



## helmstead

elevan said:
			
		

> Here are a couple of calculators from the Langston University for everyone...they are online based and not a spreadsheet.
> RATION BALANCER AND NUTRIENT REQUIREMENT CALCULATOR
> Total Mixed Ration Calculator


I checked those out.  They aren't quite the same as the calculator Goatmasta has (I wish there was a way to post it here, but we really cannot find the original link).

The calculator we use plugs in the feeds you have in front of you, amounts you are feeding...and tells you where your final %s are.  It can get really hard to do the math when you're mixing feeds to make a better complete ration (like adding BOSS, alfalfa pellets, flax, etc)...that is what the calculator Goatmasta has does for you - also taking your hay into consideration.


----------



## elevan

Here is the FEED CALCULATOR  that Goatmasta and Helmstead have been talking about.
I had to load it to my website.  It's titled Feed Calculator but you are free to use the other documents there as well  

eta: Funny thing when I saw it was that I recognized it...from another forum a while back originally intended for DEER!    It'll work for any species though as long as you plug in the numbers.  You may have to look up some values to plug in but that shouldn't be too difficult.


----------



## helmstead

My dorky website won't let me...well, it THINKS it will let me, but the file links never work.  Thanks for loading it Elevan...


----------



## Livinwright Farm

elevan said:
			
		

> Here is the FEED CALCULATOR  that Goatmasta and Helmstead have been talking about.
> I had to load it to my website.  It's titled Feed Calculator but you are free to use the other documents there as well
> 
> eta: Funny thing when I saw it was that I recognized it...from another forum a while back originally intended for DEER!    It'll work for any species though as long as you plug in the numbers.  You may have to look up some values to plug in but that shouldn't be too difficult.


----------



## Goatmasta

Thanks elevan.  Much easier than me emailing it.


----------



## elevan

Goatmasta said:
			
		

> Thanks elevan.  Much easier than me emailing it.


No problem.


----------



## elevan

I just ran across an article and thought I'd share.  I've *bolded* the parts that are pertinent to goats.  I posted this in the Livestock Guardian forum as well.
I don't think I've seen anyone list cotton seed meal as an ingredient in their custom mix but if you do please share and let us know of your experience.  
If you use it - Do you limit a kid's exposure or keep them away from it until they are fully ruminating?



> A short article was published on the deaths of four goat guardian dogs who died of heart problems over the course of three years, usually in the winter. (Pannill et al. April 2006) The culprit was cottonseed in the goat feed.
> 
> *Cottonseed contains a high concentration of gossypol, which is a toxin that affects primarily the heart and liver. Ruminants can tolerate higher levels of gossypol than animals with only one stomach because it binds to proteins in the rumen. An animal with only one stomach, such as a human, a dog or a pig, is much more susceptible to the poison. **However, even young lambs and calves have been found to have toxic reactions to gossypol; that can probably be said about young kids, as well. This is due to the fact that their rumens are not yet fully developed and, in many cases, occurs when they are on free choice feed.*
> 
> *Cottonseed and cottonseed meal are now used as additives in livestock feed.* This is important to know if you have a livestock guardian dog that develops depression, difficulty breathing, appears to be having a heart attack and ultimately dies, and you know that the dog consumes goat feed. *Gossypol toxicity also may be a consideration if you have a number of kids seeming to die of overeating disease, or developing chronic, difficult breathing, unthriftiness, failure to respond to antibiotics and going off feed. These can be signs of such poisoning.*
> 
> No treatment currently exists for gossypol poisoning, although its course can be reversed with removal of the cottonseed in feed for a period of time.
> 
> The writers estimated the amount of goat food that a dog would need to have consumed to cause their fatal heart damage was only 3/4 cup daily for a few weeks. (Kid feed contained .01% and the does' was .06%.)
> 
> You can do at least two things to avoid situations such as this: 1.) Read the feed tag and make sure you know what you are feeding your animals/aren't buying feed with cottonseed or cottonseed meal; and 2.) Keep your guardian dog away from the goat feed. To read more, see the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension web site at www.osextra.com and look for the fact sheet "Gossypol Toxicity in Livestock."
> 
> From "Health and Science News," Ruminations #53


----------



## 77Herford

Wow, lol just after reading a few pages my goats seem to get nothing.

Central Iowa, United States.
Between zone 4 and 5
can get bloody hot and humid and have brutal winters.
5 Boer wethers and 2 Bucks about 4 months old.
Currently browsing full time on thick weeds, shrubs, trees and have a salt lick.


----------



## St0rmyM00n

77herdford I was just thinking the same about my goats . 

I only feed 1 cup of purina goat feed + some corn in the morning.
So they get 1 cups of feed a day each , we feed in buckets each have their own buckets. 

But my goats have access to pasture 24/7 

As I read through the post and I am amazed at how heavy my goats have gotten and how shiny their coats are.

They do get loose minerals freshly topped off daily. 

In the winter when the brush is low I buy 1 square bale every 2 - 3 weeks of costal hay + the purina Goat feed and some corn.
I only have 3 goats and thats why I don't have to buy so much.

But I was looking at the other things everyone has added to their goats diets.

I am in North Central Texas 

My goats appear to be quite healthy and grow at a fast rate. 

I am wowed by all the feed options I guess cause it appears I dont feed enough to my goats and they are such fatties.

Once in a blue moon I get sweet feed and give as a treat but I don't do that often . 

When My doe was about to kid she got a bale of alfalfa all to her self it was left out for her to get it freely when she wanted it.

It just seems to be working for us, I have never had to deal with a sick goat yet.

Of course these aren't show goats but they are good at clearing brush.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

St0rmym00n & 77Herford: that's okay, most people on here think that my goats must be massively overconditioned the way I feed our herd!  I tried going for the cup a day feeding that most do on here, and my goats started looking underconditioned.
I am currently giving my milking doe: 2 cups Calf Manna, 2 cups Dumor pelleted, 2 cups alfalfa pellets, 1 cup BOSS, and 1 cup cracked corn on top of giving her controlled browse(beech, birch, & maple branches), hay, produce scraps, minerals and water.


----------



## kstaven

At that point I would think the soil your forage is growing in is lacking. Next valley over from us is like that. Here we barely supplement and in the next valley they have to heavily supplement. I know it isn't bloodlines because many of our kids are there and experience the same issues.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

kstaven said:
			
		

> At that point I would think the soil your forage is growing in is lacking. Next valley over from us is like that. Here we barely supplement and in the next valley they have to heavily supplement. I know it isn't bloodlines because many of our kids are there and experience the same issues.


Our doe in milk is the only one that gets that much feed per day, the buck & our other doe seem to be doing well on 2 cups of Dumor Goat per day, and(as I stated in another thread) we let our kids(under 6months) eat a free choice mix. Mixed in a 2 gallon bucket until evenly mixed: 3 cups Dumor Grower(contains A/C), 2 cups Calf Manna, 3 cups Noble Goat(contains A/C & Decoquinate.), 1 cup BOSS, 1 cup cracked corn.


----------



## kstaven

I guess I'm just spoiled by being able to run our dairy herd on open forage without all the extra feeds.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

Unfortunately our flock of chickens eliminated most of our herd's browse this year, next year our herd will be completely seperate from the chickens.... or rather, the other way around, and we will have the goat's areas seeded with year round forage spike: turnip, clover, chickory, oat, rutabega, scratch grain grains, and alfalfa. Shouldn't need to give as much of the processed feeds after that. I hope


----------



## 77Herford

St0rmyM00n said:
			
		

> 77herdford I was just thinking the same about my goats .
> 
> I only feed 1 cup of purina goat feed + some corn in the morning.
> So they get 1 cups of feed a day each , we feed in buckets each have their own buckets.
> 
> But my goats have access to pasture 24/7
> 
> As I read through the post and I am amazed at how heavy my goats have gotten and how shiny their coats are.
> 
> They do get loose minerals freshly topped off daily.
> 
> In the winter when the brush is low I buy 1 square bale every 2 - 3 weeks of costal hay + the purina Goat feed and some corn.
> I only have 3 goats and thats why I don't have to buy so much.
> 
> But I was looking at the other things everyone has added to their goats diets.
> 
> I am in North Central Texas
> 
> My goats appear to be quite healthy and grow at a fast rate.
> 
> I am wowed by all the feed options I guess cause it appears I dont feed enough to my goats and they are such fatties.
> 
> Once in a blue moon I get sweet feed and give as a treat but I don't do that often .
> 
> When My doe was about to kid she got a bale of alfalfa all to her self it was left out for her to get it freely when she wanted it.
> 
> It just seems to be working for us, I have never had to deal with a sick goat yet.
> 
> Of course these aren't show goats but they are good at clearing brush.


I feel better now, lol but this is my first go with goats.  I guess when winter comes I'll give the two remaining goats hay with the llama's.


----------



## that's*satyrical

I get my 2 new babies Sunday. I am new so feel free to correct any of this if it doesn't look good:

they will get dumor goat pellet mixed with producers pride sweet 12% pellet 50/50 ratio (that is what they are eating right now) in whatever amount they're eating right now...
they will start with 15-20 min pasture on nice days (I will be walking them & letting them eat in the field next door) and slowly increase to an hour or maybe 2.
on yucky days will get hay free choice
manna pro mineral (for goats) free choice
and of course lots of fresh water, whatever forage they can find in their paddock (about 1/2 acre I think)
supplements with bo-se (I think that's what it's called) when recommended
some sort of bio stuff for intestinal balance once a week or when their tummies seem upset


----------



## Ms. Research

that's*satyrical said:
			
		

> I get my 2 new babies Sunday. I am new so feel free to correct any of this if it doesn't look good:
> 
> they will get dumor goat pellet mixed with producers pride sweet 12% pellet 50/50 ratio (that is what they are eating right now) in whatever amount they're eating right now...
> they will start with 15-20 min pasture on nice days (I will be walking them & letting them eat in the field next door) and slowly increase to an hour or maybe 2.
> on yucky days will get hay free choice
> manna pro mineral (for goats) free choice
> and of course lots of fresh water, whatever forage they can find in their paddock (about 1/2 acre I think)
> supplements with bo-se (I think that's what it's called) when recommended
> some sort of bio stuff for intestinal balance once a week or when their tummies seem upset


Congratulations on your up coming adventure in goats.  Something I'm looking forward in the future.  The information that I know about about goats is what I've read on this forum.  Very good information which I think will help you as you learn to care for your goats.  All I can give you for advise is take it all one step at a time.  Take your plan that you have right now, which is a solid plan, and build on it.   You need to know your goats.  It will all be very overwhelming once you come down from your "Goat High".  But stop, take a breath, knowing that in a few months, when every one has settled in and adjusted to your set plan, you will then be able to start really evaluating your goats.  Really seeing them and learning about them.  I did this with my rabbits.  I know rabbits and goat care are completely different, but I know about that excited "high" and how it feels to think you are overwhelmed.   I made it through those several months, and I am more confident knowing that I can really care for my animals and can adjust my plan to really suit their needs.

Can't wait to see them.


----------



## that's*satyrical

Awww, thank you so much! That is my plan! Actually, my husband wants to venture into rabbits eventually but we are taking one step at a time. Started with chickens this past spring, and now moving into goats. Rabbits will probably be next  I am very excited to put up my pictures. Probably will be Monday since I will be too busy on Sunday getting acquainted with them....


----------



## kstaven

Over the next 6 months your game plan will likely change 20 times as you adjust it to what works best for you and your goats.

Don't sweat the small stuff and have fun.


----------



## that's*satyrical

Hahaha! I know. I'm sure you're right. I just want to be prepared. Yeah, we had to improvise with the chickens several times to find what works & now it is very enjoyable to just go out & watch them & collect the eggs. And they get so excited to see me cuz I bring them treats. We pretty much love it so that's why we decided to expand!


----------



## 77Herford

that's*satyrical said:
			
		

> Hahaha! I know. I'm sure you're right. I just want to be prepared. Yeah, we had to improvise with the chickens several times to find what works & now it is very enjoyable to just go out & watch them & collect the eggs. And they get so excited to see me cuz I bring them treats. We pretty much love it so that's why we decided to expand!


I 2nd that, when we first got chickens it was chaos.  Now we have order most the time and enjoy chicken watching as we let a flock out once a day.


----------



## GoatFaerie

AlaskanShepherdess said:
			
		

> Location: Central Alaska
> s.
> 
> Does in milk and pregnant receive red raspberry leaf. At first sign of illness goats get at least 1 clove of garlic each.


I'm still questioning before I get goats, so this may be a stupid question, but... Does the garlic flavor the milk at all? I've heard the taste will change based on what she eats.


----------



## elevan

GoatFaerie said:
			
		

> AlaskanShepherdess said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Location: Central Alaska
> s.
> 
> Does in milk and pregnant receive red raspberry leaf. At first sign of illness goats get at least 1 clove of garlic each.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still questioning before I get goats, so this may be a stupid question, but... Does the garlic flavor the milk at all? I've heard the taste will change based on what she eats.
Click to expand...

Garlic and any strong supplement can indeed flavor the milk.  But given the context of how garlic is given in this case you would be dumping the milk due to the goat having an illness...so the fact that it flavors the milk wouldn't matter because you wouldn't be drinking it.


----------



## GoatFaerie

I have a huge personal beef with corn (I'll spare you all my rant) and would prefer not to ever feed it to my goats (and chickens) that I'll be getting next spring.  Does anyone else feel the same? If so, what supplemental feeds and such do you use? 

My goats will get plenty of free range on an PacNW Hillside with all the raspberry bushes they could ever want in addition to the usual growth  Is it necessary to still purchase hay when there is plenty of grass, trees, etc for them to munch on all day? 

Side note, there is 1 tree that IDK what it is. Anyone good at identifying Rhododendron if I take a pic?


----------



## elevan

GoatFaerie said:
			
		

> I have a huge personal beef with corn (I'll spare you all my rant) and would prefer not to ever feed it to my goats (and chickens) that I'll be getting next spring.  Does anyone else feel the same? If so, what supplemental feeds and such do you use?
> 
> My goats will get plenty of free range on an PacNW Hillside with all the raspberry bushes they could ever want in addition to the usual growth  Is it necessary to still purchase hay when there is plenty of grass, trees, etc for them to munch on all day?
> 
> Side note, there is 1 tree that IDK what it is. Anyone good at identifying Rhododendron if I take a pic?


Please remember that no one is wrong in their practices on this thread...so no rants on corn    I think that if you read through this entire thread you'll find that there are quite a few non-corn supplements listed.

If your goats have access to browse year round (and it's good quality) then there really is no need to supplement.

As to identifying a plant...there are lots of threads on the forum that you might have a look at.  If not, please post a new thread to identify your plant (I'd really like to keep this thread about feeding practices).


----------



## Livinwright Farm

elevan said:
			
		

> GoatFaerie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AlaskanShepherdess said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Location: Central Alaska
> s.
> 
> Does in milk and pregnant receive red raspberry leaf. At first sign of illness goats get at least 1 clove of garlic each.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still questioning before I get goats, so this may be a stupid question, but... Does the garlic flavor the milk at all? I've heard the taste will change based on what she eats.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Garlic and any strong supplement can indeed flavor the milk.  But given the context of how garlic is given in this case you would be dumping the milk due to the goat having an illness...so the fact that it flavors the milk wouldn't matter because you wouldn't be drinking it.
Click to expand...

Garlic is not only for illness, but also for keeping ticks, mosquitos, & fleas away! For people, dogs, cats, and goats


----------



## GoatFaerie

Livinwright Farm said:
			
		

> elevan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GoatFaerie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still questioning before I get goats, so this may be a stupid question, but... Does the garlic flavor the milk at all? I've heard the taste will change based on what she eats.
> 
> 
> 
> Garlic and any strong supplement can indeed flavor the milk.  But given the context of how garlic is given in this case you would be dumping the milk due to the goat having an illness...so the fact that it flavors the milk wouldn't matter because you wouldn't be drinking it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Garlic is not only for illness, but also for keeping ticks, mosquitos, & fleas away! For people, dogs, cats, and goats
Click to expand...

those are more of a topical application though, right? And if not, does that effect the taste of the milk?


----------



## JusticeFamilyFarm

GoatFaerie said:
			
		

> Livinwright Farm said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> elevan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Garlic and any strong supplement can indeed flavor the milk.  But given the context of how garlic is given in this case you would be dumping the milk due to the goat having an illness...so the fact that it flavors the milk wouldn't matter because you wouldn't be drinking it.
> 
> 
> 
> Garlic is not only for illness, but also for keeping ticks, mosquitos, & fleas away! For people, dogs, cats, and goats
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> those are more of a topical application though, right? And if not, does that effect the taste of the milk?
Click to expand...

Correct me if I'm wrong here- but from what I've read- nope, not topical- it repels the bugs when fed to the goats (or dogs, cats, people, etc).  And, yes, as stated before, it can affect the taste of the milk.


----------



## St0rmyM00n

Livinwright Farm said:
			
		

> Unfortunately our flock of chickens eliminated most of our herd's browse this year, next year our herd will be completely seperate from the chickens.... or rather, the other way around, and we will have the goat's areas seeded with year round forage spike: turnip, clover, chickory, oat, rutabega, scratch grain grains, and alfalfa. Shouldn't need to give as much of the processed feeds after that. I hope


I took a whole acre and split it in 1/2 for now ... 1 1/2 belongs to the chickens and the other to 2 goats. We will be moving soon to 4 acre land and the chickens will have a full acre to them self and the goats a full acre to them self. Once in a blue moon a chicken or so will hop over to the goats side to chase bugs but the majority of the 60 chickens stay on their side of the yard. Some times I take the 2 goats for a few months to the front yard for weed control we don't have any special plants or flowers in the ground or fruit trees. We do have 1 ever green but they stay away from it . I keep them up front for 4 months in the spring while the wild brush grows up really high about 5 - 6 ft tall when it all gets really thick I move them back to their section of land for the rest of the year. I think rotation can help a great deal or for me this has been working. We want them to eventually have a section for locking them up at night they have a house but it don't have a door it just has 3 and 1/2 walls and a roof, but they rarely sleep in it they like sleeping under the stars.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

JusticeFamilyFarm said:
			
		

> GoatFaerie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Livinwright Farm said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Garlic is not only for illness, but also for keeping ticks, mosquitos, & fleas away! For people, dogs, cats, and goats
> 
> 
> 
> those are more of a topical application though, right? And if not, does that effect the taste of the milk?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong here- but from what I've read- nope, not topical- it repels the bugs when fed to the goats (or dogs, cats, people, etc).  And, yes, as stated before, it can affect the taste of the milk.
Click to expand...

No correction necessary  spot on! Yes, it will affect milk taste. And yes, it is given orally, not topically or otherwise.


----------



## EM Squared Farms

Hi Everyone !

Just wanted to share with you what I'm feeding my goats.

For my bucks, I feed them 2x a day.  Each buck gets 1/4 cup Noble Goat Medicated Feed Pellets, 1/4 cup Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, 1/2 Shredded Beet Pulp per feeding.  I also offer free choice a goat mineral block and add a splash of white vinegar to their water. They also get Coastal Hay in their feeders at all times.  I also give Molly's herbal dewormer every week.

For my does, they are pregnant now, I've slowly been increasing their feed rations until I double it.
They get fed 2X a day also. Each doe gets 1/2 cup Noble Goat Medicated Feed Pellets, 1/4 cup Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, 1/2 cup Shredded Beet Pulp per feeding.
They also get baking soda free choice, a goat mineral block free choice, and coastal hay in their feeders at all times.
I also use Molly's herbal dewormer on the does too, every week (except no Formula 1 while they are pregnant)

They have grass and weeds in their pasture areas along with playgrounds of sorts (concrete block structures and wood piles).

Check out our website for pics:  www.emsquaredfarms.weebly.com

Thanks,
Lisa


----------



## elevan

EM Squared Farms said:
			
		

> Hi Everyone !
> 
> Just wanted to share with you what I'm feeding my goats.
> 
> For my bucks, I feed them 2x a day.  Each buck gets 1/4 cup Noble Goat Medicated Feed Pellets, 1/4 cup Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, 1/2 Shredded Beet Pulp per feeding.  I also offer free choice a goat mineral block and add a splash of white vinegar to their water. They also get Coastal Hay in their feeders at all times.  I also give Molly's herbal dewormer every week.
> 
> For my does, they are pregnant now, I've slowly been increasing their feed rations until I double it.
> They get fed 2X a day also. Each doe gets 1/2 cup Noble Goat Medicated Feed Pellets, 1/4 cup Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, 1/2 cup Shredded Beet Pulp per feeding.
> They also get baking soda free choice, a goat mineral block free choice, and coastal hay in their feeders at all times.
> I also use Molly's herbal dewormer on the does too, every week (except no Formula 1 while they are pregnant)
> 
> They have grass and weeds in their pasture areas along with playgrounds of sorts (concrete block structures and wood piles).
> 
> Check out our website for pics:  www.emsquaredfarms.weebly.com
> 
> Thanks,
> Lisa


Thanks for letting us know what your practices are.  Can you give us some more information please?
(From post #1 of this thread)
Be sure to include what state / country / region that you are in.
And how does your feeding program change seasonally?
Please include or edit to include the type(s) of goats that you raise

You can go back and edit your original posting by going to the post and clicking edit at the bottom right of it  

This information simply helps others know what works in certain areas and for certain breeds.


----------



## emily

Does ayone here use alfalfa cubes? Is it necessary to soak them or chop them up nice and fine?


----------



## theawesomefowl

I feel embarrassed reading this thread as my set up (so far) is so simple for my 5.5 month old wether goat...he gets free choice grasses, weeds, and browse of all kinds, along with the two lambs, plus access to salt at night, and a small amount of sheep concentrate. (very little) He has only been wormed once (with Safe-Guard) in his short life. 
I gave them some garlic before, but couldn't get them to eat it! How do you get the goats (and sheep) to eat the garlic?


----------



## autumnprairie

east I-40 Arkansas,

I am very new to having goats, I have 3 nigerian dwarves and 3 boers,  I feed my goats, 1 cup of goat pellet mixed with corn once a day unless they beg but they dont each have there own bowl (feeder) so it is a free for most days, bermuda hay that they dont care for much and I walk them 2-3 times a day so they get to browse. they love morning glory and pears and muscadine vine, mulberry leaves plum, mimosa and weeds and grass. It has been fun trying to keep them out of my neighbors soybean feild where there is an abundant of morning glory. 
please give any thoughts and feed back on what I am feeding.


----------



## 20kidsonhill

autumnprairie said:
			
		

> east I-40 Arkansas,
> 
> I am very new to having goats, I have 3 nigerian dwarves and 3 boers,  I feed my goats, 1 cup of goat pellet mixed with corn once a day unless they beg but they dont each have there own bowl (feeder) so it is a free for most days, bermuda hay that they dont care for much and I walk them 2-3 times a day so they get to browse. they love morning glory and pears and muscadine vine, mulberry leaves plum, mimosa and weeds and grass. It has been fun trying to keep them out of my neighbors soybean feild where there is an abundant of morning glory.
> please give any thoughts and feed back on what I am feeding.


A little more info would help, How old are your goats?  is that 1cup with corn for all 6 goats. Are your goats males(castrated) or females and how long have you had them?  

Do you plan on breeding any of them? or are they for pets?


----------



## autumnprairie

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> autumnprairie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> east I-40 Arkansas,
> 
> I am very new to having goats, I have 3 nigerian dwarves and 3 boers,  I feed my goats, 1 cup of goat pellet mixed with corn once a day unless they beg but they dont each have there own bowl (feeder) so it is a free for most days, bermuda hay that they dont care for much and I walk them 2-3 times a day so they get to browse. they love morning glory and pears and muscadine vine, mulberry leaves plum, mimosa and weeds and grass. It has been fun trying to keep them out of my neighbors soybean feild where there is an abundant of morning glory.
> please give any thoughts and feed back on what I am feeding.
> 
> 
> 
> A little more info would help, How old are your goats?  is that 1cup with corn for all 6 goats. Are your goats males(castrated) or females and how long have you had them?
> 
> Do you plan on breeding any of them? or are they for pets?
Click to expand...

I have 2 boer does oone is 3 yr old and the other is 15 wks, 3 nigerian dwarves, 1 doe that is 2, 1 wether 15 wks, 1 buck 9 mths, I feed 6 cups one a piece, but there is a lot of pushing.

I have had them for almost 8 wks, they also have free range trace minerals  for goats and a lick block that is all stock.

I am trying to start a homestead and sustaining my own food, I also have chickens and rabbits,

I want to make sure that I am giving them enough food, or if I am giving too much I want to breed only enough to maintain for food and milk.


----------



## spanish goatee guy

southernOHIO 50 miles E of CINCY 30 FROM KY  spanish goats,  goats feed naturally on pasture wooded and fields , we run 30  we,ll expand to more in the next few years, our farm is 100acres and we do hay on several more ,  we  watch for worms symptoms but try not too deworm unless absolutley necessary the goats have to develop some resistances . The strong ones will survive . the weak will go to freezer,. we are not  a pet operation . the goats are black , cocoa , or chocolate. they grow cashmere coats in the fall and winter months, the mothers are outstanding  and the kids are very quick when born , these goatsare more wild natured and have more wild tendencies.  we have 2 gaurd dogs onsite  , we love our goats but we want them to be true to their breed ,,tough,,   creep feed kids KENT 18%  MINERALS  by KENT    WE DONT FEED GRAIN , only pellet goat feed.


----------



## 77Herford

I feed Goat Chow right now but I'm searching for something else near by.  I have two pgymy goats one with twin doelings.  8, 5 month old Boer whethers, oh and two Nubians.  I am also graining them all with oats.
Yes and Alfalfa hay.  Iowa, US


----------



## elevan

77Herford said:
			
		

> I feed Goat Chow right now but I'm searching for something else near by.  I have two pgymy goats one with twin doelings.  8, 5 month old Boer whethers, oh and two Nubians.  I am also graining them all with oats.


Please edit your post to include the following:

*Be sure to include what state / country / region that you are in.*

*Are you using hay?  Will you be using hay?  What type?*

Thanks


----------



## elevan

spanish goatee guy said:
			
		

> southernOHIO 50 miles E of CINCY 30 FROM KY  spanish goats,  goats feed naturally on pasture wooded and fields , we run 30  we,ll expand to more in the next few years, our farm is 100acres and we do hay on several more ,  we  watch for worms symptoms but try not too deworm unless absolutley necessary the goats have to develop some resistances . The strong ones will survive . the weak will go to freezer,. we are not  a pet operation . the goats are black , cocoa , or chocolate. they grow cashmere coats in the fall and winter months, the mothers are outstanding  and the kids are very quick when born , these goatsare more wild natured and have more wild tendencies.  we have 2 gaurd dogs onsite  , we love our goats but we want them to be true to their breed ,,tough,,   creep feed kids KENT 18%  MINERALS  by KENT    WE DONT FEED GRAIN , only pellet goat feed.


Please edit your post to include the following:

*Do you feed hay?  Will you be feeding hay in winter?  What type?*

Thanks!


----------



## elevan

theawesomefowl said:
			
		

> I feel embarrassed reading this thread as my set up (so far) is so simple for my 5.5 month old wether goat...he gets free choice grasses, weeds, and browse of all kinds, along with the two lambs, plus access to salt at night, and a small amount of sheep concentrate. (very little) He has only been wormed once (with Safe-Guard) in his short life.
> I gave them some garlic before, but couldn't get them to eat it! How do you get the goats (and sheep) to eat the garlic?


Please edit your post to include the following:

*Be sure to include what state / country / region that you are in.

What brand of feed are you using?

Are you using hay?  Will you be using hay?  What type?*

Thanks!


----------



## elevan

emily said:
			
		

> Does ayone here use alfalfa cubes? Is it necessary to soak them or chop them up nice and fine?


I've never used the cubes - only the pellets and hay.  It seems that I hear consistently that others have had issues with cubes and getting goats to eat them.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

elevan said:
			
		

> emily said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does ayone here use alfalfa cubes? Is it necessary to soak them or chop them up nice and fine?
> 
> 
> 
> I've never used the cubes - only the pellets and hay.  It seems that I hear consistently that others have had issues with cubes and getting goats to eat them.
Click to expand...

Cubes are too hard for the goats to chew... even if you are able to flake them apart.... and flaking them apart shreds your fingers... not fun.


----------



## elevan

Thanks for providing some feedback on the cubes LWF.


----------



## Livinwright Farm

elevan said:
			
		

> Thanks for providing some feedback on the cubes LWF.


No problem


----------



## sawfish99

Located in SE CT.  We have 4 does: 2 Oberhaslis, 1 Ober/Togg, 1 Lamancha.  3 of the 4 are in milk, and we will keep them in milk until about 2 months before kidding.

Purina Goat Chow - 1.5 qts (about 2 lbs) twice a day when milked.  The dry doe is getting about 1 qt twice a day to improve her conditioning, but hoping to cut back some.
Purina Goat minerals free choice and baking soda free choice.
Local grass hay (1st cut - they didn't like 2nd cut) free choice.
Hay consumption has increased as browse availability has gone down with the weather.  I am hoping to fence in more browse this weekend.
Molly's herbal wormers

We tried flax seed, however, the goats managed to sift it out of the feed and leave it in the bucket if it didn't stick to the feed.  We stopped because I wasn't really sure why they need it.  With our horses, we feed flax because it has a noticable effect on their coats, but I didn't see that there a deficiency that needed to be corrected for the goats.

Since we have had goats less than 2 months, we haven't done any seasonal changes.


----------



## 20kidsonhill

We were told, the only real reason to invest in the extra expense of feeding flaxseed, was to improve the qualilty of their coat for showing the goats.  So we haven't tried it.  I was thinking about adding it to a couple of our new goats feed. But it doesn't sound like they like it very much.


----------



## elevan

Some of our practices were changed:  http://www.backyardherds.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=131054#p131054


----------



## Mamaboid

I think my goats are deprived. 

Northeast Pennsylvania

4 goats, 1 nubian doe, 1 nubian/kikko doe, 1 very mixed up  girl with a ND/Alpine Momma and a Fainter/Angora Daddy, 1 Fainter Buck

My goats all get the same things to eat.

2 cups locally made goat sweetfeed  every morning.  Not sure what all is in it, can't find the label from the last bag.  Will edit this if I can remember next time I buy.

Grass hay, as much as they want

Free choice loose minerals

From spring through fall they get to browse in the woods and pasture on the pond bank at least a couple hours every day.

They are all locked in at night due to predators, and get hay to munch on when they go to bed.  2 of my does are pregnant, and I am still deciding what I will do as far as changes to this routine for the babies, but I doubt there will be any great big changes as this seems to be working fine for now.


----------



## NannaSue

Hi there everyone.  Merry Christmas!!  
I have two Pygmy does, a mother and daughter. Mom is maybe three years old(seller wasn't certain?) and her nine month old daughter.  I live in San Angelo, TX and buy feed from Plamer's Feed and Supply that they call P-12 that is supposed to be compatable for sheep as well. 
 We inherited a Barbodoe lamb born in March like the Pygmy goat.  I talked with the county extension agent and the previous goat owner  and our vet, about what feed to get. 
 Diamond the daughter got a severe upper resp. infection in Sept and our vet said that she was "chunky" which was part of the cause of the seriousness of the infection; that the weight compromised her lung capacity and to cut back her feed.  I'm seeing references to Purina "noble goat" feed and several other suppliments.  Does anyone know about the toxicity of the mineral block with copper in it for Barbadoe sheep? 
Ooops  I somehow just lost an entire paragraph asking questions & giving more information about the shed/barn I have for my "critters"
How would anyone suggest I make or buy a hay holder device?  We have had a horrible drought and have almost no weeds/grasss/graze/brouse left? 
Thanks for any adviced!
Sue

email also: lsusanl@yahoo.com


----------



## Queen Mum

nannasue,  welcome to BYH...

There are some great hayfeeders in the equipment section that can be made really inexpensively out of cattle panel pieces and 2 x 4's.   

As for mineral block and goat feed, DO NOT feed it to your sheep. Sheep can't have the same level of copper as goats can.  (They need copper, but not as much.)  

You would be better off mixing your own feed.   It's not that hard.  And it will give you control over your feeding.  You can vary it with the needs of your animals (during kidding/lambing)  when they are sick, when it's hot, cold, etcetera.)  

Take a whole grain like wet COB (corn, oats and barley with molasses), alfalfa pellets, some beet pellets, and black oil sunflower seed  than to feed a stock goat mix to your sheep and your goats.  Then you can give an individual goat mineral to your goats and sheep minerals to your sheep.


----------



## elevan

Welcome to BYH NannaSue!

Goats need copper so if your current feed is formulated to accommodate sheep too then it's not going to have an appropriate level of copper for goats.  But you can supplement with Copasure .

_So as to keep this thread as a great feeding reference regarding goats, would you mind asking the sheep and feeder type / design and illness questions in the appropriate areas.  I linked to those areas in that last sentence.  Thank you._


----------



## verkagj

Live in Northern Belize
Weather is usually warm to hot and sunny. Of course, raining today.

There is nothing available for goats here. I've gone to every feed mill I can find. When I ask for something to feed goats they act like I'm nuts! Several places have even asked, "why would you want to feed goats?" All the animals here are small and skinny because they only get browse or a few places have actual pasture. There is no hay available. I'm trying to grow my own. Hard to get it to dry in high humidity though.

The closest I could come to feed is something called Pig Grower Pellets. It comes real close to the nutritional requirements of the goats and I add a little handful of corn, sunflower seeds (I have no idea what kind they are), and something called Mill Feed (dry, looks like Bran). And they each get a banana every morning (bananas are very cheap here). 

They have a mineral block. No loose minerals available. 

They get garden stuff when available. They just munched away on the trimmings from pidgeon peas. They have a 100'x100' fenced area to browse. When it gets a bit thin, I tether them out somewhere else for a few days. In rainy season (June - Dec) stuff grows like crazy so it only takes a couple of days for it to grow back.

I have 3 goats of unknown heritage. Two should kid soon. I feel like I'm not feeding them properly but we have to make due with what's available.


----------



## 20kidsonhill

verkagj said:
			
		

> Live in Northern Belize
> Weather is usually warm to hot and sunny. Of course, raining today.
> 
> There is nothing available for goats here. I've gone to every feed mill I can find. When I ask for something to feed goats they act like I'm nuts! Several places have even asked, "why would you want to feed goats?" All the animals here are small and skinny because they only get browse or a few places have actual pasture. There is no hay available. I'm trying to grow my own. Hard to get it to dry in high humidity though.
> 
> The closest I could come to feed is something called Pig Grower Pellets. It comes real close to the nutritional requirements of the goats and I add a little handful of corn, sunflower seeds (I have no idea what kind they are), and something called Mill Feed (dry, looks like Bran). And they each get a banana every morning (bananas are very cheap here).
> 
> They have a mineral block. No loose minerals available.
> 
> They get garden stuff when available. They just munched away on the trimmings from pidgeon peas. They have a 100'x100' fenced area to browse. When it gets a bit thin, I tether them out somewhere else for a few days. In rainy season (June - Dec) stuff grows like crazy so it only takes a couple of days for it to grow back.
> 
> I have 3 goats of unknown heritage. Two should kid soon. I feel like I'm not feeding them properly but we have to make due with what's available.


Sounds very frustrating, I wish you the best of luck with them.  They sound like they aregetting very good care. I love the banana a day. They are 47cents a pound here in the USA.


----------



## verkagj

Bananas are sold by the banana. 8 for $1. That's 50 cents US. The sunflower seeds are expensive at $1.60 US per pound. 

A good thing about where we are is that there is a US trained vet who makes house calls. She charged us $35 (that's $17.50 US) for vaccinating all three goats and a Black Leg vaccine for a little lamb. Oh and rabies vaccine for the goats because there are vampire bats in the area. 

It's rough getting started on 15 acres of brush and rocks (lots of rocks). Of course the goats think the rock piles are great fun. Who will be on "the throne today? 

But I love it here!


----------



## elevan

verkagj said:
			
		

> There is nothing available for goats here. I've gone to every feed mill I can find. When I ask for something to feed goats they act like I'm nuts! Several places have even asked, "why would you want to feed goats?" All the animals here are small and skinny because they only get browse or a few places have actual pasture. There is no hay available. I'm trying to grow my own. Hard to get it to dry in high humidity though.


Why not try formulating your own feed?  Use the calculator linked below and input what is available in your area.




			
				elevan said:
			
		

> Here is the FEED CALCULATOR  that Goatmasta and Helmstead have been talking about.
> I had to load it to my website.  It's titled Feed Calculator but you are free to use the other documents there as well


----------



## Chicos Mama

Northern Arizona, Hot & Dry Summers, Wet & Cold Winters (no snow)
3 *Spoiled* Nubian goats, 1 Wether, 2 dry Does ( 3yrs. old & 12 yrs. old)

I feed my goats the same year round except for in the Summer then I add Timothy hay alongside their Alfalpha Hay (Cant find Timothy hay here in the winter months)

Mornings: Fresh water, 1/4 scoop of *EACH*: Purina Goat Chow, Wet Cobb, Purina Calf Manna, BOSS, Alfalpha Hay (1st cut) available at all times, ADM Meatmaker loose mineral free choice as well as a salt block. They also steal a bit of chicken scratch from their roomates when they can.

My goats are on a 1/2 acre Dry lot which they share with 17 Chickens, 4 peking ducks and a REALLY FAT Turkey!

Evening feeding: Replenish all water buckets, Freshen Hay and Evening treats,  Only one of these choices daily:  Fresh Kale, Butter Lettuce, 1 Bananna split 3 ways, unsalted saltine crackers, handful of Corn Chips or Raisins

Fresh cut branches when I have them as well.

Hoof trimmings every 3-4 weeks! (Dont know why they grow so fast here!)

I will tell you this my goats are FAT! So, I cut back their grain feedings to only once a day and stopped the Manna, I fed twice a day up untill 1 month ago and have yet to see a difference in their weight.

I just saw that if im feeding Wet COBB, there should be no need for Goat Chow! That would save me lots of $$ seeing as they dont eat much of that anyways...they love the COBB!

Plus...I will now be adding 1 1/2 Tbs. AC to my Wethers food!


----------



## autumnprairie

Chicos Mama said:
			
		

> Northern Arizona, Hot & Dry Summers, Wet & Cold Winters (no snow)
> 3 *Spoiled* Nubian goats, 1 Wether, 2 dry Does ( 3yrs. old & 12 yrs. old)
> 
> I feed my goats the same year round except for in the Summer then I add Timothy hay alongside their Alfalpha Hay (Cant find Timothy hay here in the winter months)
> 
> Mornings: Fresh water, 1/4 scoop of *EACH*: Purina Goat Chow, Wet Cobb, Purina Calf Manna, BOSS, Alfalpha Hay (1st cut) available at all times, ADM Meatmaker loose mineral free choice as well as a salt block. They also steal a bit of chicken scratch from their roomates when they can.
> 
> My goats are on a 1/2 acre Dry lot which they share with 17 Chickens, 4 peking ducks and a REALLY FAT Turkey!
> 
> Evening feeding: Replenish all water buckets, Freshen Hay and Evening treats,  Only one of these choices daily:  Fresh Kale, Butter Lettuce, 1 Bananna split 3 ways, unsalted saltine crackers, handful of Corn Chips or Raisins
> 
> Fresh cut branches when I have them as well.
> 
> Hoof trimmings every 3-4 weeks! (Dont know why they grow so fast here!)
> 
> I will tell you this my goats are FAT! So, I cut back their grain feedings to only once a day and stopped the Manna, I fed twice a day up untill 1 month ago and have yet to see a difference in their weight.
> 
> I just saw that if im feeding Wet COBB, there should be no need for Goat Chow! That would save me lots of $$ seeing as they dont eat much of that anyways...they love the COBB!
> 
> Plus...I will now be adding 1 1/2 Tbs. AC to my Wethers food!


what is wet COBB?


----------



## Queen Mum

verkagj said:
			
		

> Live in Northern Belize
> Weather is usually warm to hot and sunny. Of course, raining today.
> 
> There is nothing available for goats here. I've gone to every feed mill I can find. When I ask for something to feed goats they act like I'm nuts! Several places have even asked, "why would you want to feed goats?" All the animals here are small and skinny because they only get browse or a few places have actual pasture. There is no hay available. I'm trying to grow my own. Hard to get it to dry in high humidity though.
> 
> The closest I could come to feed is something called Pig Grower Pellets. It comes real close to the nutritional requirements of the goats and I add a little handful of corn, sunflower seeds (I have no idea what kind they are), and something called Mill Feed (dry, looks like Bran). And they each get a banana every morning (bananas are very cheap here).
> 
> They have a mineral block. No loose minerals available.
> 
> They get garden stuff when available. They just munched away on the trimmings from pidgeon peas. They have a 100'x100' fenced area to browse. When it gets a bit thin, I tether them out somewhere else for a few days. In rainy season (June - Dec) stuff grows like crazy so it only takes a couple of days for it to grow back.
> 
> I have 3 goats of unknown heritage. Two should kid soon. I feel like I'm not feeding them properly but we have to make due with what's available.


Wow!  You are awesome!   Sounds like you are doing the right thing.  There are other ways to feed goats besides 'goat feed' and it sounds like you are doing it.  As long as you do what you are doing they will probably do great!   What kind of goats do you raise?  Can you post pictures?


----------



## aggieterpkatie

Chicos Mama said:
			
		

> I just saw that if im feeding Wet COBB, there should be no need for Goat Chow! That would save me lots of $$ seeing as they dont eat much of that anyways...they love the COBB!


Also, how many lbs is 1/4 of a scoop?


----------



## Queen Mum

autumnprairie said:
			
		

> what is wet COBB?


Corn, Oats, and Barley with molasses added.   

Tractor supply calls it All Grain...  

Some feed stores call it whole grain sweet feed.   

others call it pro-grain mix.

When I moved to Texas, people looked at me funny when I asked for it and said, "Why would you feed that to an animal when you can feed them pellets?"  

And I said, "Because I can see what is in their feed and add whatever else I want to add without you all sneaking fillers in there that I don't want or my animals don't need."


----------



## autumnprairie

I was told sweet feed was not good for my goats especially my males? but it was in a pellet too, I feed them hay, goat pellet either commericial or noble. I thought about mixing my own but by the time I get all the stuff it is so expensive and my goat pellet is about 12 for a 50# bag but I only have 6 goats. I know when I get my dairy does I have to increase the calicium with alfalfa. I also mix chops with their pellets and loose mineral which I don't think they like at all. Is what I am doing ok. I noticed my boers horns need something is there a better mineral I can give them I get the goat mineral from TSC in that small yellow bag. and can someone post a pic of what fishtail is supposed to look like. PLEASE


----------



## redtailgal

I have fed both pellets and goat sweet feed.  My goats hold a better condition on the pellets, and strange as it sounds, their feet look better.

Hooves were dry and brittle on the sweetfeed (fed it for about 6 weeks).

I do not like the sweet feed for goats.

Now, on the other hand, I will not feed pellets to horses..........but thats a different thread!

G'night all.


----------



## elevan

autumnprairie said:
			
		

> I was told sweet feed was not good for my goats especially my males? but it was in a pellet too, I feed them hay, goat pellet either commericial or noble. I thought about mixing my own but by the time I get all the stuff it is so expensive and my goat pellet is about 12 for a 50# bag but I only have 6 goats. I know when I get my dairy does I have to increase the calicium with alfalfa. I also mix chops with their pellets and loose mineral which I don't think they like at all. Is what I am doing ok. I noticed my boers horns need something is there a better mineral I can give them I get the goat mineral from TSC in that small yellow bag. and can someone post a pic of what fishtail is supposed to look like. PLEASE


See this thread for a pic of fish tailing:  http://www.backyardherds.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=123076#p123076

The Manna Pro Goat Mineral from TSC is fine.  But you may still need to do a supplementation with Copasure too.
More information here:  http://www.backyardherds.com/web/viewblog.php?id=2607-copasure

Your feed sounds fine.  I don't recommend sweet feed at all (that's my personal opinion).

Have you shared all of your information requested in the first post of this thread (location...etc...etc)?


----------



## autumnprairie

elevan said:
			
		

> autumnprairie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was told sweet feed was not good for my goats especially my males? but it was in a pellet too, I feed them hay, goat pellet either commericial or noble. I thought about mixing my own but by the time I get all the stuff it is so expensive and my goat pellet is about 12 for a 50# bag but I only have 6 goats. I know when I get my dairy does I have to increase the calicium with alfalfa. I also mix chops with their pellets and loose mineral which I don't think they like at all. Is what I am doing ok. I noticed my boers horns need something is there a better mineral I can give them I get the goat mineral from TSC in that small yellow bag. and can someone post a pic of what fishtail is supposed to look like. PLEASE
> 
> 
> 
> See this thread for a pic of fish tailing:  http://www.backyardherds.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=123076#p123076
> 
> The Manna Pro Goat Mineral from TSC is fine.  But you may still need to do a supplementation with Copasure too.
> More information here:  http://www.backyardherds.com/web/viewblog.php?id=2607-copasure
> 
> Your feed sounds fine.  I don't recommend sweet feed at all (that's my personal opinion).
> 
> Have you shared all of your information requested in the first post of this thread (location...etc...etc)?
Click to expand...

Thanks Em, reading up on the links and yes Maam I did. the very first time I posted here a couple of months ago.


----------



## Queen Mum

Sweet feed (wet cob) alone is not a good sole feed for goats but there is *NOTHING* wrong with it when fed as part of a mix of other feeds.  

There are other feeds that are called sweet feed that are pelleted.   They are a mix of grains and fillers.   I don't recommend those either as a sole feed for goats.  Frankly, I think noble goat is a lot of fuss over nothing...  I never waste my money on it.

I tried a trial for 6 months on a it with two of my goats versus my own mix with two others.  I didn't see a single difference with my animals health OR milk production.  

Goats need primarily hay and browse.  Feed, whether it's grain, pellets, or whatever, is just a supplement to that.  

To each his own.


----------



## verkagj

I think I need a few more posts before I can upload pics. I'll give it a try then but my Internet speed is pretty bad. I've found that the girls like one of the trees in the Mimosa family, Leucanaia (sp?). It has a very high protein content. Belize Agri Officer told me that it is the main ingredient in commercial fish food. Can't store it ahead because the leaves are tiny and fall off within a couple of hours of cutting. But it makes a good snack for the rainy days when stuck in the goat house.


----------



## autumnprairie

verkagj said:
			
		

> I think I need a few more posts before I can upload pics. I'll give it a try then but my Internet speed is pretty bad. I've found that the girls like one of the trees in the Mimosa family, Leucanaia (sp?). It has a very high protein content. Belize Agri Officer told me that it is the main ingredient in commercial fish food. Can't store it ahead because the leaves are tiny and fall off within a couple of hours of cutting. But it makes a good snack for the rainy days when stuck in the goat house.


I have mimosa here too and my goats love it too.


----------



## NannaSue

Hi Queen Mum,
Thanks for the info.  I do have a question though about the feed formula

"Take a whole grain like wet COB (corn, oats and barley with molasses), alfalfa pellets, some beet pellets, and black oil sunflower seed  than to feed a stock goat mix to your sheep and your goats.  Then you can give an individual goat mineral to your goats and sheep minerals to your sheep."
Are these pretty much equal portions?  A dumb question now, why is it wet COB?  I was sold 'sweet feed' that was horse feed at the local Tractor Supply store  And the goats got diarrhea,  so we stopped that and just stayed with the Palmer's feed.  Also, to everyone in general, I keep seeing that people give greens, does that include cabbage, celery, lettuce, etc, like from a grocery?  I've offered bites of cut up apple and no one will eat it.  I was really surprised that some goats will eat bananas.  
I am enjoying this forum and learning from everybody with more experience.
Thanks, 
Sue


----------



## Queen Mum

wet cob means it has mollasses.   The reason for diarrhea is often the animals eat too much at once or their system isn't used to it or there is too much molasses in the mix.  You have to introduce anything kind of gradually. Moderation, moderation...  

Most goats LOVE bananas. They also love oranges.   Dried banana peels and dried orange peels are a great treat for them.  And dried apples and dried pears and dried...  Just no pit fruits...


----------



## Mzyla

Just no pit fruits...

Do you mean no BIG pits like in plums/or tiny pits like in the apples?

My goats are getting fresh apples often and they seems to love it!

What I noticed lately - they are crazy for a dry cat food.

Every night I left a cup+ of dry food for my 2 barn-kittens. On a morning all was gone....
I was wondering; how these two tiny kittens manage to clear it all these food to the last crumb?
Then I spotted my goat climbing on a "cats table", pushing the kittens and crunching on their food!

Is this something I should stop it, or just let them eat?

Goats are plumpy, shiny and healthy.


----------



## Queen Mum

By pit fruits I mean Big pits -   plums, apricots, cherries,  peaches.  Poisonous to goats.  Keep them away from the trees if you can.  the wilted leave can be really poisonous as well.  The green leaves and fully dried leaves are ok, but the wilted ones can kill the goat.

NO CAT FOOD.   Bad goats, naughty goats!  It won't kill them or anything.  It's just not good for them.  And can make the milk really icky tasting.


----------



## KinderKorner

I live on Southern IL / MO border. 

Pretty humid here all year around. We do have a couple hot dry months in summer. Cold winters with snow. Lots of mud, all the time except middle of summer. haha. Got to love the midwest. Went to bed last night with an 1 or 2 of pouring rain. Woke up in an inch of snow above a layer of mud. The weather here is crazy! It was in the high 50s on christmas. 


Here the does and kids get free access to grass pasture all year around. I can't remember off the top of my head what mix it is. But it has a little of just about everything around here. Orchard grass, clovers, timothy, weeds. We off free choice minerals to all goats. It's just some local goat mix. We picked the highest copper we could find. The general doe herd does not get grain except for treats and every once in a while. (Our goats are over weight because of rich grass) Kids get fed grain once a day, and does while being milked. As much as they want while milking. It's a medicated show goat ration pelleted with 18% protein. 

In the winter they also get hay. Whatever we can find. Usually a grass alfalfa mix. 

Bucks get hay all year around, and in the nicer months go out to pasture everyday for a few hours. They get grain once a day. We use those 44 or 32 oz mcdonalds cups and they usually just get a cup or two. 

We give Bose to all kids, and once a year to everyone. CDT same as Bose. 

We worm as needed, and after birthing. We use ivermectin injectable, and we give it orally. 

We give red cell, and probios and stuff such as that as needed.

We try to make our goats as healthy as possible without packing them with medications and routine treatments. They live off of grass, hay, water, and minerals mostly here. And they are all fatter than they should be. I could never see giving the does grain everyday.  We already battle with weight. I think it's a mix of the  kinder breed, and our rich midwest grass though. 


Of course they get branches and treats and stuff as well.


----------



## Dreaming Of Goats

The farm I lease from is in Southern, CT, I don't know the region  We raise 15-20 oberhaslis, about 8-12 milking.

Does: A cup of locally mixed goat grain a day when dry, unlimited while in milking stanchion. And about a flake or so a day per goat in the winter, no hay in the summer. And always 8 acres of browse/pasture.

Bucks: A cup of grain per day during winter, and a flake of hay a day. During summer no grain/hay, just browse. 

Kids: Bottle-fed fresh milk per parents, about 2 beer bottles a day (The nipples attach to them  )

ETA: They always have a white mineral block, and sometimes get loose minerals added to grain, however there are also sheep so we must be careful.


----------



## Dreaming Of Goats

Oh and when I am working with or I just want to spoil the goats, I can give licorice flavored goat treats to them which they LOVE and will do anything for, or some un-popped kettle corn from a local orchard that gives it away for FREE, which is almost always good!


----------



## wmroth

Elevan in your initial thread you said that you give BoSe 30 days pre-kidding.  How do you do that?  Injection or oral? Where to you get your BoSe?


----------



## elevan

wmroth said:
			
		

> Elevan in your initial thread you said that you give BoSe 30 days pre-kidding.  How do you do that?  Injection or oral? Where to you get your BoSe?


Bo-Se is an RX drug and only available by prescription.  So you'll need to contact your vet, I just purchase prefilled syringes as needed from my vet very inexpensively.  It's given via injection.  I give it IM as instructed but I know some who give it SQ.


----------



## wmroth

Thanks.  That is what I thought.  My vet will not give Bo-Se. She says that free minerals and feed should be enough


----------



## elevan

wmroth said:
			
		

> Thanks.  That is what I thought.  My vet will not give Bo-Se. She says that free minerals and feed should be enough


My advice would be to find a second vet.  There are many of us here who utilize a couple of vets for various purposes.  Some vets are better at certain things than others.


----------



## autumnprairie

That is what my vet said about copper. I am going to the county extension office when they open back up. I want to see what Arkansas stands on its own mineral content


----------



## Rose N Lynne Farm

ID | USA... Duh  | Don't know what region we live in

_We bought our first two does, I call them my rescues. They have been with us for 3 months, when we bought Laylie, she had rough fur was skinny, and had a cold. I feed them lots of good quality stuff because they still need to get some fat on their bones  They have gotten quite a lot more meat, but they still have to reach the healthy weight for their age and size. Now you get why I call them my rescue goats. _

Does - I'm feeding Alfalfa Pellets from Standlee Hay Company. And Noble Goat Feed from Purina. 
16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. I leave out free choice minerals.

Bucks - I Have none

Kids - I Have none.

We give Ivermectin orally. They get vaccinated, and wormed routinely. 

20 cups of alfalfa pellets, 2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 2 times per day. - *Winter*
16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Spring*
12 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1/2 pints of grain, and 1/2 handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Summer*
18 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 and 1/2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Fall*


----------



## autumnprairie

emmadipstik said:
			
		

> ID | USA... Duh  | Don't know what region we live in
> 
> _We bought our first two does, I call them my rescues. They have been with us for 3 months, when we bought Laylie, she had rough fur was skinny, and had a cold. I feed them lots of good quality stuff because they still need to get some fat on their bones  They have gotten quite a lot more meat, but they still have to reach the healthy weight for their age and size. Now you get why I call them my rescue goats. _
> 
> Does - I'm feeding Alfalfa Pellets from Standlee Hay Company. And Noble Goat Feed from Purina.
> 16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. I leave out free choice minerals.
> 
> Bucks - I Have none
> 
> Kids - I Have none.
> 
> We give Ivermectin orally. They get vaccinated, and wormed routinely.
> 
> 20 cups of alfalfa pellets, 2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 2 times per day. - *Winter*
> 16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Spring*
> 12 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1/2 pints of grain, and 1/2 handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Summer*
> 18 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 and 1/2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Fall*


If all you have are does you can get goat chow and not noble goat, noble goat has AC in it for bucks .I have one other question how routinely are you worming your goats


----------



## SmallFarmGirl

Where I live it is very hot..... 
I own 2 Nigerian does one who is bred and one producing milk .... 

Producing Milk Does = A quarter scoop of all natural balanced (minerals already in the feed) feed available all the time. They also get a handful or two of alfalfa 
and good healthy treats plus grass to graze on and free feed hay. 
Bred does = Will get an increase in feed and grass to  graze on and free choice hay + healthy treats and a bit of alfalfa. 
Does = a quarter scoop of feed and grass to graze on and free choice hay + healthy treats. 

This is my basic feeding system... ( what ya'll think ??)


----------



## Rose N Lynne Farm

autumnprairie said:
			
		

> emmadipstik said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ID | USA... Duh  | Don't know what region we live in
> 
> _We bought our first two does, I call them my rescues. They have been with us for 3 months, when we bought Laylie, she had rough fur was skinny, and had a cold. I feed them lots of good quality stuff because they still need to get some fat on their bones  They have gotten quite a lot more meat, but they still have to reach the healthy weight for their age and size. Now you get why I call them my rescue goats. _
> 
> Does - I'm feeding Alfalfa Pellets from Standlee Hay Company. And Noble Goat Feed from Purina.
> 16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. I leave out free choice minerals.
> 
> Bucks - I Have none
> 
> Kids - I Have none.
> 
> We give Ivermectin orally. They get vaccinated, and wormed routinely.
> 
> 20 cups of alfalfa pellets, 2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 2 times per day. - *Winter*
> 16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Spring*
> 12 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1/2 pints of grain, and 1/2 handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Summer*
> 18 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 and 1/2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Fall*
> 
> 
> 
> If all you have are does you can get goat chow and not noble goat, noble goat has AC in it for bucks .I have one other question how routinely are you worming your goats
Click to expand...

In the summer we worm monthly and every other month in the winter.


----------



## elevan

autumnprairie said:
			
		

> That is what my vet said about copper. I am going to the county extension office when they open back up. I want to see what Arkansas stands on its own mineral content


Well, I would look into Copasure (Copper Wire Oxide Particles) regardless.  There is promising research being done to suggest that it can help with barberpole worm issues.


----------



## elevan

emmadipstik said:
			
		

> autumnprairie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> emmadipstik said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ID | USA... Duh  | Don't know what region we live in
> 
> _We bought our first two does, I call them my rescues. They have been with us for 3 months, when we bought Laylie, she had rough fur was skinny, and had a cold. I feed them lots of good quality stuff because they still need to get some fat on their bones  They have gotten quite a lot more meat, but they still have to reach the healthy weight for their age and size. Now you get why I call them my rescue goats. _
> 
> Does - I'm feeding Alfalfa Pellets from Standlee Hay Company. And Noble Goat Feed from Purina.
> 16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. I leave out free choice minerals.
> 
> Bucks - I Have none
> 
> Kids - I Have none.
> 
> We give Ivermectin orally. They get vaccinated, and wormed routinely.
> 
> 20 cups of alfalfa pellets, 2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 2 times per day. - *Winter*
> 16 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 pint of grain, and one handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Spring*
> 12 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1/2 pints of grain, and 1/2 handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Summer*
> 18 cups of alfalfa pellets, 1 and 1/2 pints of grain, and two handful of oats. Mixed together, given 1 time per day. - *Fall*
> 
> 
> 
> If all you have are does you can get goat chow and not noble goat, noble goat has AC in it for bucks .I have one other question how routinely are you worming your goats
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In the summer we worm monthly and every other month in the winter.
Click to expand...

I would respectfully suggest that you do some research on dewormer parasite resistance.  You could be making your worms immune to your dewormers by using them so frequently.  Which may not be a problem right now for you, but it can sneak up on you quickly.

You can find more information here:  http://www.backyardherds.com/web/viewblog.php?id=2607-parasite-mgmt


----------



## Rose N Lynne Farm

Ah okay! I had just heard about that! Thanks for the helpful link!


----------



## Nonees kids

North Georgia, I have 5 Nigerian Dwarfs. All about 6 years old. 2 wethers, 3 does, never bred.


Free choice Burmuda hay, year round
Southern States goat pellets, once or twice a week when I let them out so I can get them back in. A couple cups split between them all. 
Pine tree cutting weekly
Fresh water daily
Free choice Southern States loose goat minerals
Feet trimmed every 2 months or as needed
I worm using the FAMANCHA method
It doesnt seem like a lot of care, but my goats look great and seem healthy. I bottle fed them all starting at about 5 days old using just plain whole cows milk from the store. I stopped giving them CDT shots about 2 years ago, but need to start that back up again. Maybe this spring. Am I a bad goatie momma?


----------



## Chris

Location:  North Eastern Ohio - United States
Goats: Nubian, Toggenburg, and Lamancha

Short version:

Our hay is a clover / orchard grass / alfalfa mix 
Our feed is a custom mix that we have mixed at a local mill. 
Kent Goat Mineral - Available free.

Supplements:
BoSe
CDT
Omegablume
ShowBloom 
Vitamin A/D
Vitamin B Complex
Wormer _(Safe-guard and Valbazen)_ 
Di-Methox

Chris


----------



## DonnaBelle

Hi Everyone,

We have Nubian goats.  I love the ears.

We are feeding a basic goat developer/finisher with 16% protein, 15.0 to 25.00 pmm copper and.30 ppm selenium.

The drug ingredient in Decoquinate 13.6G/Ton.

It costs us $23.50 per 100 lbs.

The girls get 2 cups am. and 2 cups pm. each.

The boys get 2 cups pm, and hay and brouse....

The minerals are Sweetlix, free choice, freshened up every other day....

I try to keep everything in the barn very clean, feeders, water bowls, etc.  We pick up poops with a pooper scooper every day from the barn hay floor.  I sprinkle Sweet PDZ on the floor as needed.  It is completely cleaned out once a year, and lime sprinkled on the earth.  I use a heavy fly knock down at the beginning of fly season on the walls, and that really seems to keep fly population down.  Plus I have a heavy duty barn fan going all the time for ventilation in summertime.  I also keep paper towels, wipes, etc. and try to keep spiderwebs knocked down.  I keep rat poison out under a heavy raised wooden pallet that we stack the hay on and so far no problem with mice/rats.

Most of all, my husband and I are out there at least two or three times a day.  At night after feeding they are turned loose in the barn and I sit down on a chair and they come to me for petting and quiet time before bed.  I'm telling you, those goats love me.

My goats have a lot of pasture and wooded area to roam in, I think that helps have healthy animals.

We use electric fencing to keep them in.  They don't seem to want to get off the ranch.  They stay within sight of the goat barn and the house...

Just FYI...

DonnaBelle


----------



## autumnprairie

DonnaBelle said:
			
		

> Hi Everyone,
> 
> We have Nubian goats.  I love the ears.
> 
> We are feeding a basic goat developer/finisher with 16% protein, 15.0 to 25.00 pmm copper and.30 ppm selenium.
> 
> The drug ingredient in Decoquinate 13.6G/Ton.
> 
> It costs us $23.50 per 100 lbs.
> 
> The girls get 2 cups am. and 2 cups pm. each.
> 
> The boys get 2 cups pm, and hay and brouse....
> 
> The minerals are Sweetlix, free choice, freshened up every other day....
> 
> I try to keep everything in the barn very clean, feeders, water bowls, etc.  We pick up poops with a pooper scooper every day from the barn hay floor.  I sprinkle Sweet PDZ on the floor as needed.  It is completely cleaned out once a year, and lime sprinkled on the earth.  I use a heavy fly knock down at the beginning of fly season on the walls, and that really seems to keep fly population down.  Plus I have a heavy duty barn fan going all the time for ventilation in summertime.  I also keep paper towels, wipes, etc. and try to keep spiderwebs knocked down.  I keep rat poison out under a heavy raised wooden pallet that we stack the hay on and so far no problem with mice/rats.
> 
> Most of all, my husband and I are out there at least two or three times a day.  At night after feeding they are turned loose in the barn and I sit down on a chair and they come to me for petting and quiet time before bed.  I'm telling you, those goats love me.
> 
> My goats have a lot of pasture and wooded area to roam in, I think that helps have healthy animals.
> 
> We use electric fencing to keep them in.  They don't seem to want to get off the ranch.  They stay within sight of the goat barn and the house...
> 
> Just FYI...
> 
> DonnaBelle


where do you get your feed? I have been looking to change my feed for the main reason, I can'give it to my does after they kid if I want to drink their milk.


----------



## Queen Mum

I have:

One Alpine doe
One Nubian/Oberhauslie/Alpine Doe
One Nubian/Oberhauslie/Alpine Buck
One Alpine/Oberhauslie Buck
One Dwarf Nigerian Doe
One Mini LaMancha Buck

The Bucks get:

Alfalfa hay every other day
free choice prairie hay
Chaff hay twice daily
1 cup of sweet whole grain daily with kelp mixed in
Free choice minerals

The does get:

alfalfa daily
free choice prairie hay
chaff hay twice daily
2 cups grain with kelp mixed in once a day
free choice minerals

They all get wormed when they need it.  Fecals are run regularly.  
They get a bolus of copper once a year
The girls get BoSe shots with gestational cycles
The boys get BoSe shots once a year prior to rut season.
They all get annual CD/T shots
The girls get oral CalMag post partum while lactating for about 5 days.


----------



## RamblingCowgirl

I'm in NE Oklahoma

We have three LaMancha - LaMancha/Nubian. 
They are milkers/pets, I plan to add reg goats for show. And maybe a bor doe for meat crosses
Right now they are in a pen that is close to an 1/8 acre. But will soon have 3-5 acers to roam.

We just changed our feed. Just trying things until we find what works. We are also fixing to move, so there will be little changes made here & there. Here is what we have got for now.

They get fed twice a day, about 1-1 1/2 cups each alfalfa pellets {16%} & 14% sweet feed {I thought it made the milk sweeter when I had goats befor} 
Two are open & dry, one is bred for march. They get fed together for now, but that will change after Cookie kids.
The hay was not so good this year, but they get all they can eat.
They have a mineral block, and baking soda.
I plan to blouse copper as needed.
We are going to try a herbal wormer.

We got them alfalfa cubes as well, but they are having a hard time eating them...should we soak them, bust them into small pieces {fiance said they ate them when he did that}, or just let them have at it?  They have only had them for two days so far. They also make smaller cubes, but it's only a 40lb bag...price for lb is about the same though. We mite try them next time.


----------



## Rose N Lynne Farm

Location:  Southwest Idaho
Goats raised: Nubians, Alpines

*Winter: Spring:*
Alfalfa pellets: I fill their food buckets with 7 pounds two times a day.
Mineral block: available free choice to all
Goat Ration: 3 pounds, gets split between all.

*Summer Fall:*
Pasture
Alfalfa Hay: Free Choice
Alfalfa pellets:I fill their food buckets with 5 pounds two times a day.
Mineral block: available free choice to all
Goat Ration: 1 pound, gets split between all.

Our buck gets AC.

*Supplements:*
Mineral Block: 24/7 to all goats.
Ammonium Chloride (A.C.): Added to minerals
Vitamin A & D: All goats / Fall of every year


*Treats:*
Pine Needles
Oats

We worm monthly in the summer, and every other month in the winter. We only use the same wormer twice in a row. We give a booster every year


----------



## WhiteMountainsRanch

I am new to goats so bear with me, I've only had them about 3 months now.


*Location: * San Diego, CA. Lows to 32*, highs to 115*.
*Goats raised:* Nubians, right now I have 5 does and 1 yearling.


*January- September:*
Alfalfa Hay- Free choice 24/7.
Alfalfa Pellets: I fill their food trough with about 5 pounds two times a day.
Dairy Goat Molasses Grain: Each doe gets about 4 cups twice a day while on the stand. Some eat a little less than this. The yearling just gets a little handful as a treat.


*September-December:*
Same as above but less grain while they are dry.


*Supplements:*
Minerals loose: Caprine Magnum Milk, available free choice.
Kelp: Sprinkled on grain.
BOSS: Sprinkled on grain.


*Treats:*
Fruits & Veggies from our garden
Oak, Sumac and other various leaves that they steal bites of.


*Meds:*
So far I've wormed 1 "series" with Ivomec Plus. Probably will do 1x per year, unless fecals come back positive. We are on a dry lot.
They get a bolus of copper: Copasure: 1x per year.
The girls get BoSe shots with gestational cycles.
They all get annual CD/T shots.
The girls will get oral CalMag post partum while lactating for about 5 days.


----------



## Citylife

I see some people feed a probiatic powder from time to time.  Has anyone ever tried giving them natural kefir milk made with goats milk or store bought?
I give it to my chickens and dogs and really see no reason why you shouldnt give it to goats.


----------



## elevan

Citylife said:
			
		

> I see some people feed a probiatic powder from time to time.  Has anyone ever tried giving them natural kefir milk made with goats milk or store bought?
> I give it to my chickens and dogs and really see no reason why you shouldnt give it to goats.


Yep, I've seen folks post about giving it before.  Some folks also use yogurt if they are out of the probiotic powder.


----------



## Kotori

I can't add anything since I don't have any goats yet, but I was wondering if any of your bucks or wethers have any kind of 'Urinary Calculi'?

I read in the Storey book for dairy goats that giving them any high calcium feed (Pure alfalfa or high alfalfa mix hay) would give them the Urinary Calculi. Have you had any/ more frequent cases with feeding Alfalfa to bucks, or is a non-issue?


----------



## elevan

Kotori said:
			
		

> I can't add anything since I don't have any goats yet, but I was wondering if any of your bucks or wethers have any kind of 'Urinary Calculi'?
> 
> I read in the Storey book for dairy goats that giving them any high calcium feed (Pure alfalfa or high alfalfa mix hay) would give them the Urinary Calculi. Have you had any/ more frequent cases with feeding Alfalfa to bucks, or is a non-issue?


High calcium doesn't cause urinary calculi.  High phosphorus does (grains are high in phosphorus).

ALL of my goats get alfalfa.

eta:  You want to maintain a proper Cah ratio of 2:1 minimum (you could go slightly higher on the calcium side and be fine)


----------



## CelticOaksFarm

Ok, I have read through 90% of the replies here. Love seeing how others care for their goats from all over. I would like specific info for the south, we are in FL so looking for others in state or deep south and what you feed, and what your deworming schedule is. 

Our hay supplies fluctuates between coastal hay (grass hay) and oat hay available. We have a wonderful feed store who delivers twice a month to us at no extra cost. I have spent lots of time at their store and on the phone having them order in feeds and whole grains for me. (lots of geese here) they are a purina carrier among others. We use to feed Nutrena goat, but Nutrena then required the store to buy an entire load of Nutrena feed at a time. Not good as he turns over stock rapidly and won't sell old feed. So back to purina we went. 

I would like some guidance on feeding as I am a stickler to dietary needs for the animals here. After realizing the breeder we got the first goats from gave us no real help, I am reading everything I can on diet needs. 

Our group:
1- wether fainter 2 years old

1- Nigerian/Nubian buckling (3 weeks old) currently being bottled

1- Nigerian doe and her daughter (daughter is 2 months old)

1- Nigerian doe and her daughter (daughter 5 months old)

I have read alot about not feeding goat feed, but alphalpha pellets. Can others weigh in on what is a good base feed and WHY. I understand everyone has an Oppinion, I would like to be able to read the why with the feed so we can make a choice.

Currently we keep the following whole grains:
Whole wheat
White millet
Brown millet
Wheat
BOSS

They are added to and used with the waterfowl we raise. 

The goats are out all day every day, we rotate where they graze depending on the time of the year. Winter they get the rear pasture where they clear the marsh grass and mangrove trees. During the heat of the summer that pasture is not available to them because of water levels. So they are either in a north east pasture covered heavily in live oaks and palm trees and grass, or the south east of similar trees/grass. They also have access to the rear yard if we are expecting rough storms. (on the coast, on an island here).

We have a very thickly overgrown 1/3 acre area none of the animals have access to, but where we can cut and offer browse to the goats from. Everything here grows thick and very rapidly, we have eliminated many tropical plants from the areas where the goats have access leaving it friendly and safe for them to be in as we enjoy them far more than the plants. 

Looking forward to hearing what others have to say. 

Location: Merritt Island, FL - sub tropical - 90' - 100's summer highs / 50's - 60's winter lows
We deal with heavy summer rains, hurricanes, high humidity. However we live right on the coast (on an actual island) and have amazing breezes all day.


----------



## Bifrost

I just spent the last day and half reading this entire thread as I had time. How interesting!!  I've learned lots already.  For what it's worth, and take it with a grain of salt because I'm a new goat owner, having only read everything I could get my hands on for the last year in preparation.  We got our goats almost three months ago. 

Live in Central Wisconsin, hot/humid summers, can have extreme cold winters and heavy snow.  As you might imagine, I haven't cycled through seasons with them yet, but so far don't see me changing a whole lot except maybe going through more hay in the winter. 
1 - 4 month old mini-nubian doeling
1 - Standard Numbian/Sanaan cross First Freshener 
They are not related.

Kenzie is still on a bottle, but is being weaned as I write this. I've just started giving her a bit of grain while I'm milking Lexsie and she's started doing more browse the last couple of weeks. 

Lexsie gets an organic goat feed, Nature's Grown Organics, that is here in Wisconsin, along with a scoop of BOSS while being milked.  She browses a really nice assortment of weeds, trees and bushes in the pasture daily with lots of fresh water.

http://naturesgrownorganics.com/complete.html

I supplement with free choice organic kelp, baking soda and organic minerals (again from Nature's Grown).  As we are very selenium deficient, I also throw in some of Fir Meadow's Kop-Sel herb mix a few times a week.  I use Fir Meadow's herbal wormer once a week.  We keep Fir Meadow's 'Better Daze' and 'Gods Greens' on hand, along with probiotics and molasses.  So far everyone is doing great and Lexsie's coat has improved a ton since we got her. *crosses fingers*  

Edit to add:  I forgot I also have an alfalfa/timothy grass hay mix available 24/7 to them. Duh! 


Thanks for sharing, everyone!!
Meg, Bifrost Farms Boarding Kennel
Vet Coordinator, Rocky Mt. Great Dane Rescue
Mom to Dagobaz, Harley, Kleiner and Juda (the Dane Gang) and Lexsie and Kenzie the goats.
Callen the mole-catching cat belongs to no one.


----------



## Harbisgirl

elevan said:
			
		

> GoatFaerie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a huge personal beef with corn (I'll spare you all my rant) and would prefer not to ever feed it to my goats (and chickens) that I'll be getting next spring.  Does anyone else feel the same? If so, what supplemental feeds and such do you use?
> 
> My goats will get plenty of free range on an PacNW Hillside with all the raspberry bushes they could ever want in addition to the usual growth  Is it necessary to still purchase hay when there is plenty of grass, trees, etc for them to munch on all day?
> 
> Side note, there is 1 tree that IDK what it is. Anyone good at identifying Rhododendron if I take a pic?
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember that no one is wrong in their practices on this thread...so no rants on corn    I think that if you read through this entire thread you'll find that there are quite a few non-corn supplements listed.
> 
> If your goats have access to browse year round (and it's good quality) then there really is no need to supplement.
> 
> As to identifying a plant...there are lots of threads on the forum that you might have a look at.  If not, please post a new thread to identify your plant (I'd really like to keep this thread about feeding practices).
Click to expand...

I love this thread! I've read every post and have learned alot. I don't have goats yet, just doing my homework first 

Eleven, I'm sorry to disagree with you but I'd love hear what GoatFaerie has to say. Her comments did not come across (to me anyway) as hostile or inflamatory at all - just her opinion, just as everyone here has an opinion on any other type of feed or supplement. Just because she doesn't like corn doesn't mean that she is telling anyone that they are wrong or bad. If she knows something about corn and its (potential) pros/cons or ill effects - I want to hear it. 

If you wouldn't mind, could we let her give her thoughts on this?


----------



## elevan

Harbisgirl said:
			
		

> elevan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GoatFaerie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a huge personal beef with corn (I'll spare you all my rant) and would prefer not to ever feed it to my goats (and chickens) that I'll be getting next spring.  Does anyone else feel the same? If so, what supplemental feeds and such do you use?
> 
> My goats will get plenty of free range on an PacNW Hillside with all the raspberry bushes they could ever want in addition to the usual growth  Is it necessary to still purchase hay when there is plenty of grass, trees, etc for them to munch on all day?
> 
> Side note, there is 1 tree that IDK what it is. Anyone good at identifying Rhododendron if I take a pic?
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember that no one is wrong in their practices on this thread...so no rants on corn    I think that if you read through this entire thread you'll find that there are quite a few non-corn supplements listed.
> 
> If your goats have access to browse year round (and it's good quality) then there really is no need to supplement.
> 
> As to identifying a plant...there are lots of threads on the forum that you might have a look at.  If not, please post a new thread to identify your plant (I'd really like to keep this thread about feeding practices).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I love this thread! I've read every post and have learned alot. I don't have goats yet, just doing my homework first
> 
> Eleven, I'm sorry to disagree with you but I'd love hear what GoatFaerie has to say. Her comments did not come across (to me anyway) as hostile or inflamatory at all - just her opinion, just as everyone here has an opinion on any other type of feed or supplement. Just because she doesn't like corn doesn't mean that she is telling anyone that they are wrong or bad. If she knows something about corn and its (potential) pros/cons or ill effects - I want to hear it.
> 
> If you wouldn't mind, could we let her give her thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

Members are more than welcome to start a thread to discuss the pros and cons of a certain feed and put a link here for it but I prefer not to make this thread a place to offer debate.  A post here such as "To discuss the pros / cons of feeding corn follow this link ..." would be acceptable.


----------



## Harbisgirl

Oops  Ok sorry - I thought this was a general learn / share thread about feeding. I'll contact her directly ..


----------



## Bifrost

I'd also love to know if anyone here sprouts whole grains for their goats.  I don't think I've seen that protocol yet. I'm thinking about it since I only have two, but I realize how time intensive it would be for a larger herd.


----------



## jwh210

Location: North Eastern Pennsylvania 

We are pretty new to this and I have a question. We have 2 mini- Nubians. A buck and doe. We feed them each about a solo cup (about 16oz?) and a half  of sweetened goat mix twice a day, all the fresh cut hay at their disposal and their pens are in wooded areas so all the weeds, roots, vines, and anything else they want to pick at they have to eat whenever they want. My question is what to do about the minerals. Neighbors around who have goats told us to get the mineral block and that they will love and go crazy over it. But any specific kind to give them the minerals they need? Thank you for your help!


----------



## autumnprairie

jwh210 said:
			
		

> Location: North Eastern Pennsylvania
> 
> We are pretty new to this and I have a question. We have 2 mini- Nubians. A buck and doe. We feed them each about a solo cup (about 16oz?) and a half  of sweetened goat mix twice a day, all the fresh cut hay at their disposal and their pens are in wooded areas so all the weeds, roots, vines, and anything else they want to pick at they have to eat whenever they want. My question is what to do about the minerals. Neighbors around who have goats told us to get the mineral block and that they will love and go crazy over it. But any specific kind to give them the minerals they need? Thank you for your help!


2 things come to mind for you

1 you want to have AC ammonium chorlide for your buck so he doesn't get UC urinary calculi which is urinary stones that can be fatal

2 loose mineral for goats made for goats


----------



## jwh210

Also how much and how often do I give them the minerals?


----------



## autumnprairie

jwh210 said:
			
		

> Also how much and how often do I give them the minerals?


most of us do free choice minerals like you would a block, they will only eat as much as they need


----------



## elevan

autumnprairie said:
			
		

> jwh210 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also how much and how often do I give them the minerals?
> 
> 
> 
> most of us do free choice minerals like you would a block, they will only eat as much as they need
Click to expand...

You want to make sure to keep the loose minerals under cover because if they get wet the goats tend to not want them.  I put out enough for them to eat in just a couple of days and then refresh.


----------



## byardbabe

Hi everyone,
We live in North Central WV.  Our Nubian goats are on pasture 24/7 They get 4 cups Dumor sweet goat feed 2 X  a day.  Our buck gets 5 cups of a lower protien sweet feed 2X a day.  Free choice grass hay for all.   Free choice manna pro loose minerals for goats, as well as baking soda and Kelp.    My queston is this,  after the girls kidded this year I started giving them alfalfa pellets mostly because they look kind of thin.  They absolutely loved them, couldn"t get enough of them.  After about 6 weeks I noticed that their thyroid glands looked like they were enlarged, and they had stopped eating the Kelp.  I have since stopped giving the alfalfa pellets, and they are back devouring their Kelp. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem?  I had read somewhere that alfalfa interfers with the absorbtion of iodine.


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## AnnaLease

I am currently feeding Purina to my milking does, but I would love to make my own feed.  BUT, I know that with chickens, if they are fed a homemade grain mix (like corn, oats, barley, etc.) their egg production is much lower than if they were fed chicken feed from the store (like Purina or Dumor).  Just wondering if the same rule applies to goats?  Thanks!


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## Chris

AnnaLease said:
			
		

> I am currently feeding Purina to my milking does, but I would love to make my own feed.  BUT, I know that with chickens, if they are fed a homemade grain mix (like corn, oats, barley, etc.) their egg production is much lower than if they were fed chicken feed from the store (like Purina or Dumor).  Just wondering if the same rule applies to goats?  Thanks!


Just like with poultry, there feed has to balanced. If the feed is off then there production will be off.

If you want to try to mix a feed your self here is a mix from University of Missouri Extension 

Cracked or Rolled Corn 33 lbs
Rolled Oats 20 lbs
Soybean Oil Meal (44 percent) 24 lbs
Beet or Citrus Pulp 10 lbs
Molasses 10 lbs
Dicalcium Phosphate	1.8 lbs
Trace Mineral Salt 1.0 lbs	
Magnesium Oxide 0.2 lbs

Chris


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## lovinglife

Boy do I feel stupid!  My poor goats get pasture and grass mix hay, loose minerals and kelp.  When I milk they get a little three way mix, thats it.  So far all my goats are healthy and shiny, of course I expect that to change now after reading all the things you all feed your goats.  Hope no one turns me in for goat abuse!!


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## autumnprairie

lovinglife said:


> Boy do I feel stupid!  My poor goats get pasture and grass mix hay, loose minerals and kelp.  When I milk they get a little three way mix, thats it.  So far all my goats are healthy and shiny, of course I expect that to change now after reading all the things you all feed your goats.  Hope no one turns me in for goat abuse!!


Hey, if what you are feeding your goats work and they are happy and healthy then leave it be. There are many ways to feed them and what works for some May not work for another.


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## elevan

lovinglife said:


> Boy do I feel stupid!  My poor goats get pasture and grass mix hay, loose minerals and kelp.  When I milk they get a little three way mix, thats it.  So far all my goats are healthy and shiny, of course I expect that to change now after reading all the things you all feed your goats.  Hope no one turns me in for goat abuse!!


Sounds like you're meeting your goats needs to me.  The need fresh water, long stemmed foodstuff (hay or browse) and minerals.  Every farm is different, every goat is different.


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## OneFineAcre

lovinglife said:


> Boy do I feel stupid!  My poor goats get pasture and grass mix hay, loose minerals and kelp.  When I milk they get a little three way mix, thats it.  So far all my goats are healthy and shiny, of course I expect that to change now after reading all the things you all feed your goats.  Hope no one turns me in for goat abuse!!


No, you're not stupid.  But you seemed to have mastered the fine art of sarcasm


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## lovinglife

LOL sometimes I just wonder if we are creating more problems than we are fixing by all the "stuff" we feed them, of course I do not have two gallon a day milkers either, that could be a big difference and we freeze hard in the winter and have dry summers so the worm load is not as bad as other places I have lived.  I just always thought goats were supposed to be low maintenance animals, I hope to be able to keep my goats healthy with low upkeep.  But if we have problems I know where to come for help!

Sarcastic???  ME????   LOL


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## OneFineAcre

lovinglife said:


> LOL sometimes I just wonder if we are creating more problems than we are fixing by all the "stuff" we feed them, of course I do not have two gallon a day milkers either, that could be a big difference and we freeze hard in the winter and have dry summers so the worm load is not as bad as other places I have lived.  I just always thought goats were supposed to be low maintenance animals, I hope to be able to keep my goats healthy with low upkeep.  But if we have problems I know where to come for help!
> 
> Sarcastic???  ME????   LOL


 
I think sarcasm is a lost art.  I'm a big fan

I agree with you.  I have found goats to be low maintenance.  A lot of people "overthink" on care.

But, it does really depend on the particular circumstances of your farm, and what you are trying to do as to how you feed.

My goats are "dry lot". Like you we do not have a worm issue.  But,  we show our goats and milk test our goats. That requires a little more effort.  Free choice coastal Bermuda hay all the time for all of them. We get a local mix 12% protein feed.  I know, I know goats need more protein but I pay $10/50lbs for this mix.

Oat hay when we can get it in the spring.  I have a good source of alfalfa hay in the summer.  And, we have access to peanut hay in the fall.  We supplement does who need it.

But, I see a lot of Nigerian Dwarfs that are too fat.  And, it's because of what you are saying.


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## Rocco

@*lovinglife* - "LOL sometimes I just wonder if we are creating more problems than we are fixing by all the "stuff" we feed them,"

I totally agree. Meat goats can get by with very minimal care, but many tend to overdo it with "loving" care, and maybe doing the breed(s) harm in the long run by not culling lesser quality animals...like those not as resistant to internal parasite, those with poor hooves, etc. Instead we over deworm, over tend, and run to the vet with any runny nose goat.

We supplement pasture, which due to the perpetual drought we now seem to be in is mandatory, with good quality Sudan or Haygrazer hay plus a little alfalfa, and on average less than a cup of 16% protein feed per animal a day.


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## lovinglife

Nice, and you avatar goat is beautiful!  It is nice to hear about people who have a more simple approach to goat care.  So refreshing, thanks!


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## goatboy1973

Our farm is located in Corryton, TN and we raise fullblooded Koy Ranch Spanish goats and commercial Spanish cross meat goats. We are a multifaceted operation. We sell commercial breeding stock and full Koy Ranch Spanish goats to commercial and purebred breeders. We also sell goats for meat and provide a turn key package as far as meat is concerned. A customer can come to our farm and pick out a meat goat and in 2 weeks we deliver the meat to their door. We contract with a local USDA slaughter house. Year round, we have free choice pasture, woodland, and overgrown pasture. We rotate our pastures on a regular basis to help hold down on internal parasites. In late Fall and all Winter, in addition to the free choice browse, we provide free choice grass hay, goat specific protein blocks, and free choice CO-OP brand "Zinpro" loose goat minerals enhanced with zinc for good hoof health. We provide goat feed only if the BCS warrants it or we have preg. or lactating mommas. During Spring and throughout early Fall, free choice protein blocks, free choice loose goat minerals, and pasture/ browse 24/7, no feed. This is how we roll at Calfee Farms. We only deworm on an individual basis using the FAMACHA method, same goes for hoof trims and Pedi's (usually once yearly). Our goats (commercial and pure Spanish) are fairly maintenance free and tough as nails. Any high maintenance or overly needy goats are strictly culled and sent to the sale barn or meat mkt. Each goat is re-evaluated biannually. We raise hardy, self sufficient goats who give us big growthy twins every breeding season with as little input as possible while still being healthy and happy and packed with meat. Our does kid out in the woodland or in one of many 12x12x12 portable goat sheds constructed by my father and brothers and kid unassisted. The kids have to be ear tagged the day they are born because on the second day, they are nearly impossible to catch. Kids are up nursing within 15 mins of being born.


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## goatboy1973

Oh, forgot to mention the composition of my special mix of goat feed. I start with alfalfa pellets, powdered corn, 10% protein medicated goat sweet feed, and shredded beet pulp. I start with the sweet feed and add the alfalfa pellets to it. Next is the beet pulp and finally the powdered field corn. I mix this together and usually the sweet feed acts as a binder to hold the other ingredients together and if it doesn't, then I add some liquid goat Nutridrench to help completely bind all the ingredients together. This feed is for all age categories of goats and I only make this concoction in small batches where it will be used up in a few days to prevent spoilage. I have used this special mix for the 13 yrs. I have been in the goat business and developed this mix while I was working on my Animal Science degree. I absolutely loved my animal nutrition courses had to devise the "Ideal Goat Feed" and wound up getting an "A" on the project and the professor was amazed at how it met every mineral and nutritional need a ruminant would have daily. If I marketed this, it would be terribly expensive and probably the most high end feed a person could buy. I usually mix equal parts of the feed components and add the powdered corn until the feed is well coated. This feed is wonderful in the winter because the beet pulp, powdered corn, and molasses from the Nutridrench and sweet feed provides huge amts. of energy for pregnant, lactating, nursing, or sick goats. This feed will also help put weight on thin goats and give them a shiny hair coat.


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## SillyChicken

I'm new to goats and still learning.. but this is how we're doing it today.   (always open to suggestions!)

Southern Lower part of the Mitten!  We have a continental climate with 2 distinct climate regions, humid summers, cold winters. Southern lower has the occasional tornado, 17 on average none in the Upper area of the state...and 30 days worth of thunderstorms a year.   I love it here!  I have almost 11 acres with a 2 acre pond that fills and drains as it pleases.  

I Currently feed:
Grass hay free choice all year long
Alfalfa pellets and Goat chow (3 A to one C ratio) given in the mornings all year long  though I will probably quit the grain in summer, they're looking a little too good!
free choice loose minerals and baking soda
they have 2,pastures to graze freely in summer.  I cut pine boughs for them for treats.
This summer I may allow them to browse around the pond area.
I haven't fed AC yet to my billy but will start that soon.

I have a first freshener soon, she'll get the the Bo se in a couple months. 

Still working out who should be fed what when...


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## SillyChicken

why not feed a doe grain until just before?  Am I causing my doe harm by feeding now?


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## cybercat

I have 4 four month old La Manchas.  This is what I am feeding. Grain is goat Starter 18%, alfalfa pellets(but only once in a week or so), loose mineral and forage.  We have alot for them to eat here.  Our goats now weigh in.. buckiling 66 pounds and 25 inches tall, girls 61 pounds and 24 inches tall.  They get grain in morning after I take the for a walk and in evening after their evening walk.  I have to walk then now for they cleared out their outside pen.  I am not feeding hay since we forage them.  All these goats were born in the same month, 3 on the same day one a week earlier.


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## Coop Deville

20kidsonhill said:


> Virgnia in the valley, near the west virgnia line.
> We have around 20 adult does, 2 to 3 herd sires, we are a meat goat operation.  We normally kid out in february, it is a good time a year for our kids to be born, for the fair to be shown for 4H-ffa projects in the meat goat classes.
> 
> we have pasture from april to november, maybe december if it is a good year, and all our adult goats only get pasture and loose goat minerals(co-op milled) free-choice, unless
> 
> For flushing before breeding season they get some pelleted goat grain 16% protein, medicated for abougt 3 weeks before putting them in with a buck.  We start with around 1 1/2 cups per day per head and go up to about 3 cups.
> 
> We take them off the grain after the buck goes in.  (too much fighting)
> 
> 
> 
> We feed no grain to any of our does that are bred, until 30 days before they are due, then they recieve around 1 1/2 measuring cups at first on up to 3 cups(1lb) of 16 % medicated goat developer/grower grain and continue  this through the nursing of their kids.
> 
> All goats receive a 2nd or 3 rd cutting grass mix hay if there isn't enough pasture, normally December to March, for the winter months. and during dry spells.  mostly free-choice, Althoug I have to use the feeders to feed grain, so I feed what I think they will clean up each day.
> 
> After goats kid they receive free-choice hay, continue with the
> 1 lb 16% goat delveloper(co-op brand) pelleted/medicated has 2.5% fat and 16% protein,   Roughage products is listed first followed by grain products on the feed label.  We would also slowly start adding rolled/cracked corn for added energy and milk production. up to around 1 1/2 cups per doe per day.
> 
> This is all we used to do, until this year, after I have been on this forum we decided to try doing a couple new things.  We started adding a bale(40lbs) of alfalfa hay to their diets per every 10 or so does,
> adding up to 1 cup of dry beet pulp per doe, mixed into pelleted feed
> 
> We wean at 8 weeks, all weaned does come off of grain and are on grass hay/pasture.
> 
> 
> kids are fed in a creep-feed area, free-choice 16% pelleted goat feed, same as what we are using on does, up until they are chosen for show whethers, show whethers are switched over to a show feed in May for an August show.
> 
> Replacement doelings/bucklings are kept on the 16 % feed until 15 months of age or they are bred, sometimes at 11 to 12 months of age.  they receive around 2 lbs a day for the first 7 to 8 months and then 1 lb a day after that. 1 lb is 3 cups of feed. Yes, my growing buckling are receiveing up to 6 cups of feed a day.
> 
> All my feed contains AC.
> All my pelelted feed is medicated.
> 
> 
> Short version:
> 
> lactating does:
> free-choice grass hay/pasture
> 2 to 4lbs of alfalfa hay
> 1lb pelleted medictated 16%protein goat grower
> 1cup dry beet pulp
> up to 1 1/2 cups dried corn
> free-choice goat minerals
> 
> All goats over 15 months of age, not nursing
> Only hay or pasture, free-choice minerals
> 
> flush does for 3 weeks before breeding
> 
> under 15 months of age, not bred
> 1 - 2 lbs pelleted grain
> hay or pasture
> 
> 
> bred does, no grain, until last month of pregnancy.
> 
> Bo-Se shots twice a year, onse before breeding, onse before kidding
> 
> copper bolusing at the end of winter, this is new to us, I am not sure if we will do it twice, right now we are plannning on one time before the heavy worm loads in the spring.
> 
> BOSS: started using this a little on some yearlings that just kidded, not sure if I will continue, it was $17 for a 25lb bag.
> 
> Purchased Goat Preferred probiotic Powder this winter for the first time.  used it on some does that weren't doing well.  Along with red-cell for the first time. Seemed to really help them.
> 
> Vitamine B complex, also purchased t his for the first time. for sick goats.
> 
> I was able to save a very ill doe, that I am sure wouldn't have made it with out some of these new items .  <<<Thank you BYH>>>
> 
> edited to add: we have 6 pasture acres, divided into 4 fenced in areas. Our goats are locked out of the barn from March to November, calf huts are provided for protection from rain, if they choose to use them.


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## Coop Deville

I am new to this, and loved your attention to detail.  In your opinion is there certain foods that can make kidding difficult?  I live in central Florida near Orlando.

Thanks,

Kevin


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## fainting goats11

Hello I live in central Minnesota and I have nigerian dwarf goats. Currently I own two wethered boys that are just pets. All year round they get Purina Noble Goat Medicated feed. They each get 1/4 cup of these pellets twice a day so a total of 1/2 cups a day.

Right now I'm giving them the Mannapro goat mineral but they won't eat it so I think I'm going to switch back to the Purina Goat Mineral. Theres just no where around here where I can find it so I'll see how that goes. I give them each the recomended amount every day.

For hay they get grass hay at every feeding time plus at night when I put them to bed, (So a smallish amount 3 times a day). In the winter I typically give them more hay then in the summer as it does get pretty cold up here. 

For treats they love un-salted penuts and I also give them licorice flavored goat treats.


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## Sweet Sue

New to the goat world. This is what theprevious owners told me to feed and picked up the bags of feed and hay when they brought me the goats.
HMC 18% Dairy High Energy and HMMC15% Calf Starter/Creep. She told me to feed 3/4 cup of the pellets and 3/4 cup of the sweet feed per goat.goat.  They are almost 6 months old. She also brought bale of peanut hay. They get all the fresh water they want and a overgrown pasture of weeds, trees, brush. They think they are in heaven.I slowed them back a 1/4 cup because they are getting fat. They don't seem to care to eat thehay. I guess because there is so much to eat in pasture. I live inPanama City Fl. That is the N. W. part of Fl.  Oh, I need to add I feed twice per day. It is time to go get feed and I don't want to feed sweet feed. I would prefer to feed a good quality pellet. They haves salt block. It looks from here that I need to give loose minerals too. A response on what anyone thinks would be great. They have their own feed buckets. I don't think I am leaving anything out. Would liketo know if I could change to pellets only and change to a goat feed instead of cattle feed. They are nubian/boer mix.


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## Pearce Pastures

Since they are still growing, I would give them what you are in terms of pelleted feed (and NO sweet feed, like you said).  After about a 1-1.5, you could nix the feed too if you like.  Goats do grow for about 3 years but they do fine without feed.

They do not need a salt block. 

Other than that, they need only good hay, water, and a mineral.


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## Sweet Sue

Pearce Pastures said:


> Since they are still growing, I would give them what you are in terms of pelleted feed (and NO sweet feed, like you said).  After about a 1-1.5, you could nix the feed too if you like.  Goats do grow for about 3 years but they do fine without feed.
> 
> They do not need a salt block.
> 
> Other than that, they need only good hay, water, and a mineral.


Thank you Pearce Pastures!! So I will get rid of the block and get loose minerals for goats. So I should stay on dairy pellets. I don't have to get goat feed? In your opinion, you think it would hurt to get another kind of hay? They have so much green stuff out here they aren't't eating the hay.


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## OneFineAcre

The peanut hay you get in FL is "perennial peanut".  It's not really peanuts at all, it is grown just as a forage.  Around here we get peanut hay that is actually the byproduct of producing peanuts.

The perennial peanut hay is really good stuff, it's the alfalfa of the south.  If they aren't eating that, not likely you will find something better.  Your right, if they have plenty of fresh green forage that's probably why they aren't eating the hay.


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## OneFineAcre

Here is some information:

http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/mar08/peanut0308.htm

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/an234


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## Sweet Sue

Thank you for the correction One Fine Acre Farm. That is correct, it is perennial peanut hay. Yes there is lots of green stuff here. The area I have them in now is probably 1.5 acres. I have another area of green stuff about the same size. There are only 2 of them and they love it. Do you think I need to continue giving the hay? I sure don't mind, I want to do what is good for them. Sweet Sue.


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## OneFineAcre

I would.  I wouldn't give to much and waste it if they aren't eating it, but I'd offer some.


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## Sweet Sue

Forgot to ask last night, how much loose minerals would you recommend feeding 6 month old nubian/boer mixed. Does it go in a separate feed container or mixed with one or both feedings? Also why would you give your goat baking soda?


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## OneFineAcre

Give loose minerals separate and give free choice 
They will only eat what they need
Only give baking soda if they are "gassy" it helps soothe their stomach


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## Sweet Sue

Thanks One Fine Acre, makes sense to me.


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## Pearce Pastures

Some folks offer baking soda free choice but we don't for a number of reasons.  1) Studies have shown a connection between the practice and poor mineral absorption  2) The body of a healthy, correctly fed animal shouldn't require baking soda to keep if from bloating 3) **And this is completely based on NOTHING other than my own silly logic** Because baking soda changes the acidity of the gut, the goat's body has to work then to correct its PH to what it SHOULD be to counter the baking soda.  Rather, I would think it best to let the animal's gut be whatever acidity it should be and then save the baking soda for emergency use.  Hope that makes some sense.


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## Sweet Sue

willowbreezefarm said:


> Awesome idea for a thread!! I love reading and seeing how everyone elses routines are around there barn.
> 
> Here is my feeding routine:
> 
> Location: Virginia in the Valley very close to WV line.
> 
> Breed raised: Nigerian Dwarfs and Pygmys
> 
> I always practice fresh clean cold water in the summer and I use two heated water buckets for warm water in the winter.
> 
> Summer: 1 cup twice a day of our local Co-Op's goat grain. It is made with local minerals needed in our area and it is NOT medicated and it is only made in a sweet grain only. They get one scoop of BOSS with every meal.
> They do get to go out and browse in the field everyday and they browse on 7 acres with some wooded areas.
> 
> Winter: Depending on my goats weight by winter I may bump there grain ration up but this is rare since my goats seem to do well on just one cup twice a day. Again I still feed the goat grain from our local co-op. They seem to like that very well and I havent had any issues with it yet. They also get one scoop of BOSS with there meal.
> 
> I dont use the loose minerals my goats dont seem to like it as well as the Billy block I get them from TSC. So I have two of those up in the barn. I do not feed baking soda free choice unless one of my goats are showing signs of upset stomach.
> 
> I give the annual CD&T shot once a every year.
> 
> I like to worm twice a year, it seems to work well for my girls. I worm in the spring with the Safe Gaurd horse tubed paste and the fall I use the generic Ivermectin horse tubed paste. You are proberly wondering how I get the correct dosage? Well you weigh your goat and take the weight of your goat and x by 3 and you get the weight you use on the tube. I have not had any issues with worms using this method and my goats have been fine with using horse paste. Plus horse paste is CHEAPER then buying one small goat liquid wormer.
> 
> They do get there hooves trimmed regularly.
> 
> My goats LOVE leaves and beet stems/leaves as treats. They sometimes take carrots and apples too.
> 
> Well this is what I do. May not seem like much but its what works for my herd.
> 
> Oh forgot to mention... I also like to take my goats on walks.. Hope that is not weird but all of our goats walk on leashes and so we like to walk them. They love it cause they get to browse as we walk and its also good exercise for them
> 
> My next goal is to get a LGD. We have a area in VA that is an adoption place for the Great Paranesse dogs and sometimes they have young dogs and pups there for adoption. I would much rather adopt then buy from a breeder. But we will see..


Where do you walk them? In your pasture?


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## KaliMoran

I'm new to ALL things goats and wasn't expecting the mother/son pair I just acquired, so I'm learning as I go.  ANY and all advice or critiquing of my goat's diet is completely welcome... I'm in the process of trying to learn just how and what to feed.

I'm in southern Maine, zone 5b.  Our doe is nursing her 6 week old and has free choice second cut hay (blend), about 1-1.5 cups of blue seal dairy goat feed split into two feedings, and about 1 cup of hay stretcher each day.  I have a mineral supplement that I sprinkle on her grain and she fastidiously avoids.

I waffle back and forth from thinking I'm starving her to stuffing her.  Her weight looks lovely, at least..


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## SteveElms

I'm fairly new to all of this and here is what I am doing:

Live in western Nebraska temps from -20 to 104 (sometimes it seems like in the same week). We have 2 toggenburgs, 5 Nigerian dwarfs and 8 boer goats. 

For the toggs they get free feed 4th cutting alfalfa as much as they want, cracked corn and sweet feed on the stand and a mineral block. We average over a gallon and a half a day from the 2. 

The boers stay mostly on a grass hay with some alfalfa mixed in. The does get more alfalfa when they are closer to kidding. 

The Nigerian dwarfs are on alfalfa now as they are kidding, and little grain. They also get free feed grass hay but their preference is the alfalfa. 

Like I said we are new to all of this and welcome suggestions. What we are doing is what the dairy farm/previous owners suggested and what we've learned from  others. We also have some pasture available for them in the spring through fall but all are dry lotted now because they are kidding. 

Steve


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## WinterValleyFarm

Really wondering. What is the calf manna pro?? What is its purpose and Is it like a free choice thing or something you add to the feed? Same with kelp. What ia the right stuff to get? Is that free choice? Can bucks, bucklings, & doelings get it? What is its purpose/ benefits??


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## ragdollcatlady

Calf Manna is a supplemental pellet. I use it occasionally to increase protein levels in my grain mix for recovering animals. I would not use it exclusively as a feed since it is high in protein.

Kelp adds a natural source for iodine and other trace minerals. You can offer it free choice or add a little to the feed. Goats need access to good quality minerals and kelp can be an extra if your animals need more iodine (or other trace minerals) than what your mineral mix offers. 

There is a product called Goat Balancer that adds yucca and a few other popular things into a pellet form for supplementing goats as well if you are wanting to add something.

The basics would be to choose your hay based on what you need, what kind of goats you have and their purpose, and stage of life. Then add your mineral, loose is best. Keep in mind copper is essential for goats and you want to be aware of the calcium to phosphorus ratio of your whole feeding program. If your animals need grain/pellets due to growth, pregnancy/lactation or recovery status, then decide which one and what kind of supplements will give you the best results. 

Feeding goats can generally be simpler or a little more complicated.... A lot depends on how much you enjoy fussing over and trying new things for them.


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## WinterValleyFarm

I Guess This Is A Little confusing. How would you figure out the ratio for the calcium to phosphorus?  My problem is in East TN in my area I don't have very many affordable options... :/ That's why I'm interested in seeing pretty much how and what to feed both does and bucks. Or what everyone feeding methods broken down step by step.


----------



## WinterValleyFarm

I Guess This Is A Little confusing. How would you figure out the ratio for the calcium to phosphorus?  My problem is in East TN in my area I don't have very many affordable options... :/ That's why I'm interested in seeing pretty much how and what to feed both does and bucks. Or what everyone feeding methods broken down step by step. 


ragdollcatlady said:


> Calf Manna is a supplemental pellet. I use it occasionally to increase protein levels in my grain mix for recovering animals. I would not use it exclusively as a feed since it is high in protein.
> 
> Kelp adds a natural source for iodine and other trace minerals. You can offer it free choice or add a little to the feed. Goats need access to good quality minerals and kelp can be an extra if your animals need more iodine (or other trace minerals) than what your mineral mix offers.
> 
> There is a product called Goat Balancer that adds yucca and a few other popular things into a pellet form for supplementing goats as well if you are wanting to add something.
> 
> The basics would be to choose your hay based on what you need, what kind of goats you have and their purpose, and stage of life. Then add your mineral, loose is best. Keep in mind copper is essential for goats and you want to be aware of the calcium to phosphorus ratio of your whole feeding program. If your animals need grain/pellets due to growth, pregnancy/lactation or recovery status, then decide which one and what kind of supplements will give you the best results.
> 
> Feeding goats can generally be simpler or a little more complicated.... A lot depends on how much you enjoy fussing over and trying new things for them.


----------



## babsbag

Most feed in bags will give you the Ca : P ratio.  Manna Pro will tell you how much to feed and it isn't much, like 1/4-1/2 c. a day. I use a loose mineral for goats, SweetLix Magna Milk. Other than that I feed straight alfalfa to bucks and does, and wethers when I have them. I feed my does a 16% protein grain when they are in milk; they get it on the milk stand. I feed hay twice a day.


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## WinterValleyFarm

babsbag said:


> Most feed in bags will give you the Ca ratio.  Manna Pro will tell you how much to feed and it isn't much, like 1/4-1/2 c. a day. I use a loose mineral for goats, SweetLix Magna Milk. Other than that I feed straight alfalfa to bucks and does, and wethers when I have them. I feed my does a 16% protein grain when they are in milk; they get it on the milk stand. I feed hay twice a day.



OK thanks!! I was told by LOTS of people that alfalfa will give Wethers and bucks stones?


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## WinterValleyFarm

For Nigerian Dwarfs the ratio for the c & p how will you know what's the right ratio?


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## babsbag

That is a common misconception. It is not the amount of Calcium but the ratio between the Ca and the Phosphorous that is important. Alfalfa is a great feed for them, but don't feed wheat hay, it is exactly what you don't want...very high P and very little Ca.  I learned that the hard way. Everyone I know in CA that raises goats feed their bucks and wethers alfalfa, it is cheaper here than grass hay and they do well on it. 

You can also get minerals for the boys that have Ammonium Chloride added, but you don't want to feed that to the does full time. It won't hurt if they get into it but I have read that it isn't good for does full time, don't really remember why they said that. 

@Goat Whisperer or @Southern by choice can you please post that link to the article on urinary calculi, I can't find it in my favorites.


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## Southern by choice

http://www.goatworld.com/articles/urinarycalculi/urinarycalculi.pdf


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## babsbag

@Southern by choice   Thank you.


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## Southern by choice

babsbag said:


> @Southern by choice   Thank you.



You are welcome. 

This is my favorite link on the subject too!


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## Bowman85

Okay I no this may sound weird. But does anybody live in Texas, that can give feeding recommendations.. Please


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## NH homesteader

Texas goat people...  @Ferguson K @frustratedearthmother


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## Bowman85

Thanks NH homesteader


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## TAH

@animalmom


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## animalmom

@Bowman85, I'm in North Central Texas and here is how I feed my goats: the bucks, wethers, and pregnant does who are not giving milk get Red Chain Goat Grower pellets, all the hay they want, the pregnant does get alfalfa too and all get loose minerals with copper (Ragland Goat Builder Mineral).  The does in milk get Red Chain Milking Ration plus hay plus alfalfa and minerals.  The does in milk also get the fruit scraps from breakfast.

Both of the Red Chain feeds are by weight and my goats get a little less than the directions say because the does also get some wheat berries on the milking stand and everyone gets some BOSS.

I dry lot so we bring in branches every so often for the goats to browse,

Hope that was helpful.  If you have any questions please feel free to let me know!  We try to help and not confuse.


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## Queen Mum

Anyone in Western Arkansas...  I just bought some really great alfalfa from Chickahala Farms.  This gentleman brings it in from Kansas.  The quality is Top notch.  The bales are heavy and very low on stems.  

My goats think they are in Goat heaven.


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## Sandy christen

What is boss please and thank you


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## NH homesteader

Black oil sunflower seeds


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## Sandy christen

Ty


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## mollypeters

sw wisconsin
single alpine doe and her pygmy companion
organic calf starter and organic alfalfa

i was trying to source corn-free, soy-free ration, but couldn't get the job done. my friendly feed store guy told me that he brings in this organic calf starter for a large dairy goat operation near him, and that they apparently love it for their goats (neither corn-free nor soy-free). against my better judgement, i'm feeding this to my milker, who now has pink pee. someone please tell me i'm not poisoning my goats!


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## Southern by choice

Toxicity can cause pink or red urine- onion toxicity is one cause. There are other causes as well.
What is you Ca to P ratio?


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## mollypeters

Southern by choice said:


> Toxicity can cause pink or red urine- onion toxicity is one cause. There are other causes as well.
> What is you Ca to P ratio?


i don't have the tag anymore, so i can't say for sure. she definitely hasn't had any onion, tho


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## Southern by choice

Onion is only one- there are other things that can cause toxicity.

Are you in a very cold region?


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## mollypeters

yes, pretty cold still here in sw wisconsin.


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## Goat Whisperer

Could there be onion in the hay?


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## mollypeters

Goat Whisperer said:


> Could there be onion in the hay?


maybe? i got it from an organic egg farmer up north of me. its pretty stemmy, but smells good, and they eat it well.


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## Goat Whisperer

We had this problem with does we brought in years ago. We bought hay from our neighbor and some weeds do grow in it. Had to move those does onto other hay for a while. They loved it and ate it well too


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## mollypeters

it does have a few weeds in it, which he did disclose. i got it when i got her, so i have no way of knowing if it started when she started having it. they both seem to be acting okay


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## babsbag

I would be concerned that there is urea in the calf starter. I would pull her off of the stuff ASAP and see if it clears up. Urea is toxic to goats and common in high protein cattle feed.


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## animalmom

Regarding soy-free goat feed, have you tried newcountryorganics.com?  I just got a 50lb bag of Thorvin kelp from them as I found their shipping to be the most cost effective.  I can't vouch for any of their products, but their claim is soy-free organic.  1-888-699-7088


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## mollypeters

could it bee dehydration? they weren't drinking much, and their water was freezing completely shut, even though i was going out and clearing the ice several times a day. i decided to fill their buckets with hot tap water, and they really sucked it down (had to go back for more). their pee is now normal, and they're drinking better, even though i've gone back to cold outside spigot water....weird......i'll check out newcountry organics


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## NH homesteader

@babsbag wow I didn't know that. How does one find out if it is in the feed? Would it be listed?


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## norseofcourse

Urea and a few other feed additives may be on a feed label as 'non-protein nitrogen'.  How it's listed in the ingredients may vary, urea is also known as carbamide.

I have a feed tag (not a feed I use anymore) that has a statement beside the protein percentage, that says "This includes not more than 1% equivalent crude protein from non-protein nitrogen".  In Ohio, a statement like this has to be on feed tags if they contain non-protein nitrogen, and that may be true in other states, as well.  Not sure if it's a national requirement.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-protein_nitrogen

http://codes.ohio.gov/oac/901:5-7-06


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## bgundersen

North of Springfield, MO / Ozarks of Missouri

Expectant, lactating does and their kids:
    Free choice:
         Rotational grazing pastures with sections of brushy undergrowth
         Alfalfa/orchardgrass mix hay
         Sweetlix meat maker (w/o Rumesin) loose-mineral 
         Baking soda and kelp
    Grain:  Alfalfa pellet with top dressing of 16% sweetfeed (same as we use for the cow for ease of feeding) - based on amount of milk the doe is producing and her overall condition.      
    *The sweet feed is more of an enticement at times to come in and get milked.  One of our does refuses to come in any more if we don't give her some sweet feed two milkings in a row.  It also helps new milkers or soon to be new mothers to learn to get on the stand and become accustomed to handling that goes with milking.*
    Parasite Control: Molly's Herbals once per week as a drench

Dry, open does: Everything but the grain and alfalfa pellets unless they get sick, then they will get a small grain ration and beet pulp to help with body conditioning

Bucks: Similar to dry open does except free choice grass mix hay and pasture, no grain unless conditioning is needed and they *may* have some grain and will certainly get beet pulp

Some people have an issue with waste when free choice feeding hay to goats, but I find if you keep a weaned calf with the goats, they tend to pick up the dropped hay without adverse effect, since the parasites that tend to afflict one species is not an issue for the other.  

We also have implemented rotational grazing with different animals following one another to "wear out" any parasites left by the previous animal group.  For example, My goats love to eat anything but grass.  So I sent them through the pasture first.  The cow follows and crops the grass short.  While the grass is short, I can send in poultry, that prefer shorter grass to see bugs that they love (plus they love to pick the grain out of the cow pies...ew).  Once the grass gets about 6 inches high, I can run the alpacas thru, since they don't like eating grass deeper than six inches (at least mine don't, I think it messes with their ability to watch for predators).  Meanwhile, since the cow, chickens and alpacas tend to ignore the leafy browse, by the time the goats get back around to that pasture, it has grown up again and three other unrelated species have run over the same ground to deter parasites. I have nine pastures, and can run animals on three of them for over a month, while the other six are smaller and may only be able to have something on it for about 2-3 weeks.  Which means on average I can keep any species from ending up on the starter pasture again for about 3-4 months (depending on the time of year) and some pastures may have nothing on them for several weeks.

Probably TMI, but I figure I am here to learn so perhaps others are as well, and maybe I have tried something that will work for someone else, or vice versa.


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