# Giving goats cydectin



## chels24

After taking fecal samples to my vet he recomended that I give my goats cycectin orally 5cc for 35lbs and under and 10cc for over 35. I have boers but this sounds like too much wormer. I was thinking 1cc per 10lbs was more normal. So does anyone else think this is too much or is that about normal? Also does anyone give it to pregnant does?


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## cmjust0

I wouldn't give 10ml of Cydectin to a 36lb goat, personally, even if it was the sheep drench version, which is 1/2 strength of the pour-on..  

When I was using Cydectin pour-on as a drench -- which I don't do anymore -- my dosage was 1ml/20-25lb of goat, with 6ml being my general 'adult' dose..  

The sheep drench, on the other hand, is 1/2 strength of the pour-on...so, 1ml/10lb would be about right for that..

Even if we're talking about the drench version, though, 10ml in a 36lb kid is about 2.8ml/10lb....  If you extrapolated that dosage out to a 150lb doe, you'd be drenching her with 42ml...  

Sounds pretty nutz to me...but that's just me, and I'm not a vet.


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## FlightsofFancy

I was told by another producer to follow package dosage.
So... 5ml per 110# _OR_ 1ml per 22#

Cydectin is in my rotation of wormers and I love it! My herd has been parasite free for over 2 years!


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## cmjust0

FlightsofFancy said:
			
		

> I was told by another producer to follow package dosage.
> So... 5ml per 110# _OR_ 1ml per 22#
> 
> Cydectin is in my rotation of wormers and I love it! My herd has been parasite free for over 2 years!


Parasite _free_, or free of serious parasite problems?

I ask because parasite free isn't even a goal I shoot for at this point...I just shoot for slick coats and pink eye membranes.  So long as I can keep that up, I'm happy.


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## helmstead

cmjust0 said:
			
		

> Parasite _free_, or free of serious parasite problems?
> 
> I ask because parasite free isn't even a goal I shoot for at this point...I just shoot for slick coats and pink eye membranes.  So long as I can keep that up, I'm happy.


You should start shooting higher.  Clean fecals should be your goal.


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## cmjust0

By your own admission, your goats are on drylot, eating from bales and sacks.  Sorry, but it's no real feat to get a clean fecal when you run goats like that.  

In fact, if you couldn't manage a clean fecal egg count from a goat on a drylot, I'd be concerned that you had some sort of mutant worm on your hands..  Worms need wet grass to hatch in....no grass = no worms.

Frankly, I wouldn't buy a goat from a truly worm-free herd...  In their natural habitat, goats need to carry some worms to stimulate their natural immunity to worms..  If I brought a goat which had never seen a worm into the real world of grass and leaves.....yikes.  

Thanks, but no thanks.  I'll take a thrifty, slick coated goat with pink eye membranes and a few worms over that any day of the week..


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## FlightsofFancy

*I am parasite free!* AND I am very proud of it. Yes, I toot my own horn because that hasn't always been the case. I have worked very hard to educate myself on the parasite protocols, the RX used and I rotate my goats pasture. I do monthly fecals on my herd and I rotate my wormers. I learned the hard way that the eye membrane test is a waste of MY time because by the time they are anemic enough to be pale they are in serious trouble. Every Vet I have spoken to has stated that. Maybe it works for others.
So for me Cydectin, Valbazen and Ivermec on a strict rotation works for me. 
I must say that I am a big supporter of all natural goating and living for that matter, but when you put as much heart, energy and money into goats as I have....rolling the parasite dice is not an risk I am willing to take. I love to hear of different ways to handle parasites. Different locals have different issues. It's all fascinating.  I will always have an open ear for it, but for now I am sticking to my protocol because it's works for me.


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## helmstead

Goats in lots/pens have a HIGHER incidence of parasitism...especially in wet, hot climates.  So, yes, us Georgians - pastured OR penned...we toot our horns for our healthy goats, and scoff at the FAMANCHA scale as we watch fellow producers who use it loose goats to worm induced anemia year by year.


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## lilhill

I don't run my goats on a dry lot and they have acres and acres of pasture.  The last fecal tests I had the Vet run to double check my tests elicited a response from him, and I quote:  "In the 35 years of treating goats, this is the CLEANEST sample I have ever seen.  Whatever you are doing, you're doing it right."    I'm pretty proud of that.


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## cmjust0

helmstead said:
			
		

> Goats in lots/pens have a HIGHER incidence of parasitism...especially in wet, hot climates.


Don't forget increased incidence of respiratory illness and coccidiosis, either..  You're right, though....penned goats don't generally do as well.




			
				helmstead said:
			
		

> So, yes, us Georgians - pastured OR penned...we toot our horns for our healthy goats, and scoff at the FAMACHA scale as we watch fellow producers who use it loose goats to worm induced anemia year by year.  Oh...wait...they're building a resistant herd, I forgot...silly me.


Though I know several of the kinds of producers you're talking about, you'll be happy -- no, wait...you'll probably be really disappointed to know that I've never lost a goat to worms.  Never even close, in fact.

I've never lost one to coccidiosis, either.


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## helmstead

Excuse my grievous typo... 

Week before last, I saw two caprine vets in the same day.  One, book learned - the other, experience backed up what he read in books and altered how he acted upon that reading.  Guess which one killed my goat?  Hmm.


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## cmjust0

hs said:
			
		

> Week before last, I saw two caprine vets in the same day.  One, book learned - the other, experience backed up what he read in books and altered how he acted upon that reading.  Guess which one killed my goat?  Hmm.


I'll guess the book learned one with no experience.

Sorry about your goat, btw.  Seriously...not sarcasm...fight though we may, I certainly don't like to hear about anybody losing goats.


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## lupinfarm

Helmstead, CM... IME, A happy animal is one that has access to a "normal" life, such as on pasture. My horse would be so depressed if she had to sit in a dry lot all the time, as I am sure my goats would be (I know, I've had them a week, but they are already fed up with their pen! That's how I can tell  )

Worms are a fact of life, you know most people have worms and they don't know about it right? I agree with Cm in the sense that an entirely parasite free herd is going to have a lower immunity to worms should they ever get infested, where treatment of said worms might be overall quite effective, but leave your goats body in shock from even a slight bout of anemia that they could very well die. 

Just my 2 cents.


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## FlightsofFancy

Goat health is a whole package.  Parasite treatment is just a small part. 
I would be interested in what other health issues producers have that are not on a de-worming protocol.  They might think it's the vaccines, minerals, Cocci, certain feed, genetics etc..... but infact could be a worm load that makes their body weaker. I have seen this first hand. Bought goats from these people.....had them die because they were so sick from anemia. These people are often afraid of wormers because their goats get sick when they use them. DUH! Wormy goats don't handle it well at first. They need more treatment than just wormer. 

Lets face it not all of us live in the Swiss Alps where our goats are taken out to the mountain pastures everyday. (By a cute boy in shorts...where can I get one of those? ) So we have to manage our heards according to our location and our goals. Some goats are only for lawn mowers. Some are very expensive show prospects. Some are family milkers. Each one of these goats will and should be managed differently.

***BTW: Kate's goats are not really on a total dry lot. There is alot of rock and trees. I think you are getting the wrong impression. The grass was nice and green, but her goats won't eat it. They are spoiled. They like exspensive hay.


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## chels24

So does anyone treat pregnant does with Cydectin?


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## FlightsofFancy

NONONO! Only use safeguard or ivermec on preggers and nothing in the first 45 days.
Personally this is when I leave a goat alone. only worm if it is absolutley nesesary. sorry can't spell


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## lupinfarm

FlightsofFancy said:
			
		

> Goat health is a whole package.  Parasite treatment is just a small part.
> I would be interested in what other health issues producers have that are not on a de-worming protocol.  They might think it's the vaccines, minerals, Cocci, certain feed, genetics etc..... but infact could be a worm load that makes their body weaker. I have seen this first hand. Bought goats from these people.....had them die because they were so sick from anemia. These people are often afraid of wormers because their goats get sick when they use them. DUH! Wormy goats don't handle it well at first. They need more treatment than just wormer.
> 
> Lets face it not all of us live in the Swiss Alps where our goats are taken out to the mountain pastures everyday. (By a cute boy in shorts...where can I get one of those? ) So we have to manage our heards according to our location and our goals. Some goats are only for lawn mowers. Some are very expensive show prospects. Some are family milkers. Each one of these goats will and should be managed differently.
> 
> ***BTW: Kate's goats are not really on a total dry lot. There is alot of rock and trees. I think you are getting the wrong impression. The grass was nice and green, but her goats won't eat it. They are spoiled. They like exspensive hay.


I can't imagine anyone who wouldn't worm a goat, horse, dog, cat. Mine are all on worming scheduales. Last time the goats were wormed (not by us, but by previous owners the week before they came home to us) they were wormed with the Ivermec Injectible, the horse gets a rotational wormer (Ivermec, Safeguard, on and on...) and the dogs and cat all get Strongid T.


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## speckledhen

In my capacity as moderator, I asked that the sniping in this thread quit, period. I'm giving a second warning now that you have called moderation into question. 

From the rules above:



> Do's
> * Be friendly and coureous to all members at all times.
> 
> 
> * No Flaming (verbally attacking people or groups of people - e.g. a profession, an organization, a company.)
> * No Trolling (posting to provoke others, luring them to flame or rant). Trolling is sometimes done involuntary, so please be considerate when posting.
> 
> * No Fighting.  Taking a personal conflict to the forum is unacceptable.  "I'm right, you're wrong" threads and posts will be edited or deleted
> 
> Moderation
> BackYardherds staff spend a TON of time and energy to keep the forum running smoothly.   How BackYardherds staff moderate is not ever a topic for open discussion on the forum. If you have any questions or feedback on moderation it should be addressed to the Administrator or the specific moderator via email or private message.
> * Do not post threads questioning moderation.
> * If a topic is closed or removed do not, under any circumstances, re-post the same topic or material. If you have any questions as to why a thread was closed or removed please contact a BackYardherds staff member.
> 
> The opinions expressed on the forum are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the positions of the BackYardherds website and/or its staff.


Now, would we like to continue discussing cydectin or not?


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## speckledhen

I have cleaned up this thread in deference to the original poster. I sincerely hope this discussion will continue with civility. 


Now, about cydectin.....


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## DuckLady

I will add my insight.

I don't have goats. I know almost nothing about goats except the go ba-a-a-a REALLY cutely, the babies are adorable, I would love to have a couple some day *and* I have never met anyone here in person.

But I do know rudeness and line crossing when I see it and I concur with and support Speckled Hen's warning.

Thank you in advance for your full and cheerful cooperation.


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## adoptedbyachicken

I'd just like to add to Speckled Hen and Terrie's post by reminding all that the Report button found on every post here is for your use.

Rather than reply to a disrespectful or inciting post use the report button and tell us how you feel about it.

Those that use the reply button to post further nastiness may be subject to the same membership sanctions as the originator.  Something to keep in mind.

Carry on, and have a great day!


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## trestlecreek

Back when I bought it, it was the pour-on given orally and that is just like swallowing gas IMO. I used it topically to control external parasites. If you have the product made for an oral route or as an injectable given as an injection, it is a good product for internal woms.
I generally like to go by what my vet says. If you think he may be in error with his doses, just call him back to double check.
Goats generally do carry a worm or 2. Those goats generally do not shed an egg for us to see. When we see any eggs, we worm. When we see clean fecals, we don't worm.
From what I have found, I can have clean fecals for 3-4 years in a row. If one goat has a high stresser (illness, kidding, movement,etc), I like to run a fecal a few days later to see if they shed upon stress.

We have very large pastures and our goats are worm free and have been for a number of years. I really feel that pasture management and general management has something to do with that. I never take my worm status for granted though, and keep my eye out and run fecals to be sure frequently; no one is exempt from worms and outbreaks can happen.  Just par for the course.


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## bj taylor

hello everyone.  I am raising an ancient thread because i'm brand new to goats & my vet prescribed cydectin pour on as an oral treatment for worms.  that being said, i'm concerned about his choice of med for this and coccidiosis which my goats also have & he is prescribing corid.
I am having two dilemmas here.  number 1.  I bought these 8 goats (one doe and 7 doelings - boer/texmaster) from a man who appeared to have a very healthy herd (I know very very little about goats - but am learning fast).  he said he had just wormed them all (I don't know what he used).  I've had them two months on dense forage (briars, oaks, cedar, mesquite).  all have seemed very healthy.  last week I start noticing clumping stool & graduating into 'pudding' & back again.  it stayed in one goat.  today I notice two or three having the same stool & take the specimen to the vet.  WHY would these goats have a problem like this in ideal foraging environment, plenty of room, and no lifestock on this land before?

the other question is, is he prescribing medication you would use on your goats?  the corid for the cocci and the cydectin pour on (orally) for the worms.

thanks so much for any replies


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## DonnaBelle

OK, Cydectin Sheep Drench, 1 cc per 10 lbs of goat.  For barberpole

Cydectin injectable, given ORALLY, 1 CC PER 75 LBS OF GOAT.  Some people use this as it's a less expensive way to go. For barberpole.

 Valbazen, given orally, 1 cc per 10 lbs of goat.  You must not give Valbazen to pregnant does, it causes them to abort.  It will kill tapeworms as well as barberpole.

For coccidia, give 40%  DiMethox,( you have to order it from Jeffers), the dosage as follows:

1 cc per 5 lbs of goat on day 1.

1 cc per 10 lbs of goat on days 2 -5.

BJ, I don't know where you are, but there are several reasons for loose stools.  Lots of rain can bring on cocci, and if the goats eat some plants (cherry bushes/trees) they will scour.  Cocci is usually a black stool, and a green stool is from eating the wrong plants.

I would get some 40% DiMethox for cocci and keep it on hand. 

DonnaBelle


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## elevan

Cydectin is a good choice for the worms.  Here we use Albon suspension for coccidia .

Rain brings on coccidia, they flourish in wet conditions.  Deer will track worms and other parasites into your field, so even without having livestock previously you can develop a problem.
Plus bringing the goats home can cause enough stress to cause a worm or coccidia bloom.  You should always practice some sort of quarantine procedure  that includes deworming when bringing goats to a new environment.

You can get cydectin in a sheep drench as DonnaBelle stated.  You can also use the pour on given orally, though it is harsher.


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## AshleyFishy

elevan said:
			
		

> Cydectin is a good choice for the worms.  Here we use Albon suspension for coccidia .
> 
> Rain brings on coccidia, they flourish in wet conditions.  Deer will track worms and other parasites into your field, so even without having livestock previously you can develop a problem.
> Plus bringing the goats home can cause enough stress to cause a worm or coccidia bloom.  You should always practice some sort of quarantine procedure  that includes deworming when bringing goats to a new environment.
> 
> You can get cydectin in a sheep drench as DonnaBelle stated.  You can also use the pour on given orally, though it is harsher.


2x


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## bj taylor

thanks so much.  I gave one doeling a dose of the cydectin.  it scared me to death.  I thought the vet had labeled it wrong.  it was such a solvent smell.  it was violet colored & kinda oily.  I didn't give any other goats because it scared me so bad.  I came in & looked it up.  it looks like that's the stuff.  good grief.

one month ago we had very odd weather & it was cool for a few days & it rained non stop for 24 hours.  I hadn't gotten their pen cleaned out before that weather set in.  I think that might be where my problems began.  we are now in typical North Texas weather.  very hot and very dry.

their stool certainly isn't black.  it's brown like their berries.  I looked at the inside of their eyelids.  they are rather pale.  I must treat them.  can they hold while I order this 40% DiMethox or should I proceed w/the corid?  i'm ordering the dimethox to keep on hand as you suggest.

I ordered a microscope & slides so I can do my own fecals (once I learn what i'm looking at - lol).

do you have suggestions on  how you orally medicate your goats?  I feel like I've suddenly been pushed into the deep end - things were going so smooth & wham!

sure appreciate y'alls input.  thank you


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## AshleyFishy

I'm about an hour east of Dallas.  It sounds like you have the same weather we have right now. 

Sulmet is common in our area and is not a vita b1 inhibitor like corid. I've used it as a concentrated drench with great results. I would get the sheep cydectin and use that for worming. You might also start them on some red cell orally. That will help support them during the anemia. 

I also used the cattle pour on for awhile, by recommendation from a vet. I had neurological problems, sudden death, etc with my herd. Also wear gloves while dosing with the purple stuff. As a woman I had trouble with it causing me to menstruate in the next few days after being exposed.


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## elevan

You could treat with the CoRid and repeat in 21 days with the DiMethox for the coccidia.


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## DonnaBelle

I always keep either Dimethox 40% on hand.

Recently I ordered some Toltrazuril, which is also a concentrated coccidia medicine.  I ordered it from www.prehorserace.com a supply house, online.  

Toltraxzuril has two big advantages over DiMethox 40%.  

l.  It does not taste vile like dimethox does.

2.  You give one dose (1 cc per 5 lbs. of goat) and then 10 days later, another follow up dose if needed.

Much less dosing, and much easier to get them to swallow.  I have had goats spit it all out in my face!!

Cocci can be a killer, so you have to keep something on hand.

I couldn't figure out why they hated the Dimethox so I put some on my finger and stuck my tongue to it, VILE VILE VILE TASTING STUFF.

DonnaBelle


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## bj taylor

first dosing DONE!  you wouldn't believe the drama and stress  - all from me!  there were three of us doing the deed on 8 goats.  one to catch 'em & after dosing run them out so we wouldn't get confused, one to draw up the stuff (that was me), and third guy was a friend who has had quite a lot of experience handling lifestock, to do the actual dosing.  He saved us!  hubby & I would have killed each other & we would have been found dead in the goat pen.  this guy kept his cool, kept his humor, and it all went ok.  well, almost ok.  the adult doe got into something she should not have.  I pray she will be ok.  i'm too tired, stressed, and worked up to deal with it at the moment.  she seems fine & I pray she's fine in the a.m.

ended up giving it as prescribed by vet.  I will change my meds, but after a lot of reading, decided to go with this for now.  

the injured doeling (another story) seems to be improving.  thank God!  

i'm ready for things to smooth out & get back to a happy healthy herd.

Thanks A Million for all your's advice & information.  it helped tremendously!


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## elevan




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## kowgirl

I too am from North Texas and we have lost 5 kids and a newborn in the past 2 months!  We have a ranch out in the country, but no house out there yet. On the property we have 4 donkeys and HAD 9 goats, 1 being a pregnant female. We just bought the goats around March 2014. The guy we bought them from, had a large herd in a dried pen (mostly dirt). He said he had already dosed them with wormer.

The first loss was the newborn. It looked as if it's backside wasn't fully formed, so there was nothing we could really do about that loss.

The next loss was a goat that had apparently been carried off by some sort of predator. We found a spot in our fence that looked as if something had dug under and dragged her away. We searched up and down the creek bed for any kind of sign! We found nothing but a goat bone :-(

First, you have to understand, we don't live out there and only go out and work the land on the weekends. My husband has been laying peers to build a peer and beam home and we are hoping to be moved out there by next Summer. Our neighbors help watch our property.  The goats have a big pen (I would say, at least an acre). It had lush grass, was well cleaned, 2 water troughs and I even built them a shelter to protect them from rain and give them extra shade.

My husband went out there 2 weeks ago and found 1 goat dead and the other barely hanging on. He said he tried everything to keep that goat from dying, but I am sorry to say he did not succeed.

We had already given the goats a second dose of wormer since we brought them to the ranch. The seller said the goats were born around Christmas, so when we got them, they were about 4 months old.  Our first thought was, they have worms!  The goats that died, appeared to have diarrhea. It all happened with a blink of an eye! We noticed one of the other goats seemed lethargic and also had signs of diarrhea, so I rushed her to our livestock vet, hoping it would make a difference. He did a fecal test and said she had worms, but didn't think that's what was making her sick. She had some bloat and diagnosed her with Over Eating Disease. He gave her an injection of Cortisone and Tribessen and also gave me 7 additional syringes of Tribessen to giver her every day. Then he gave me CDT vaccines for the other 4 goats. 

I took her back to the ranch and wrangled the other goats to give them the vaccination. For the next 5 days I drove 45 min. each way to give this sweet girl her syringe. The bloat was gone and she was walking around making noise, like she used to. I thought Hallelujah, we made it over the hump.  Yesterday I went up to dose her and she was lying on the ground "crying" and the diarrhea was back. I immediately grabbed her, but her in the back of my Tahoe and set the speed record for getting her back to the vet. This time I saw the vet's son (who is also a vet). I watched her lay motionless on the exam table, trying to comfort her while thinking, where in the he** is the doctor. When he finally came in, he said it was the worms causing her to be anemic and unable to get up. He said she didn't appear bloated or dehydrated. He gave her 3cc's of Cydectin, and said, "I think she's gonna be ok". He also gave me a huge syringe of Tribessen to keep her on for the diarrhea. He gave me a bottle of Cydectin to go back and dose the other goats.

This afternoon, I drove out there to give her the medication, and I found her dead on the ground! I was heartbroken. I have checked the other goats, and they don't show any signs..... white eye lids, diarrhea, lethargy, and they are eating and drinking, but this sickness hits so dang fast, I'm worried!

I apologize for the long story, but I just found your website and you all seem so knowledgeable!  I am not a complete novice to goats. We had a small heard several years ago, but it's been awhile since we've had goats again. We wormed and cared for the last goats, the same way and we never lost any to any sort of illness.

I appreciate any feedback from ya'll. I have to re-dose the goats I have left with the other half of their Cydectin the vet gave me in 2 weeks. I read that one member here rotates their herd with Cydectin, Valbazen, and Ivermec.  It's a little difficult for us, since we don't live out there yet, but I really do try and care for them!

Why do young kids get worms, even after they've been given multiple doses of wormer? I went to the vet today and spoke to a technician there and she said they are having a terrible season with worms!  That several people came in Friday who had lost multiple goats from it.  It has been awful hot here lately, but we do try to keep things clean.

Thanks, Tina


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## jodief100

You might want to start your own thread.  
If they are presenting with diarrhea, it is more than just worms.  Worms almost never cause diarrhea.   Since it is just kids that are having issues, I would bet it is Coccidiosis   I would be giving Sulmet or  Di Methox (injectable given orally) in addition to the cydectin.   

The biggest problem I see in your management is you are not rotating them.  Once the browse gets eaten down to 6"  or less (average, they don't eat evenly like sheep) they need to be moved. Even of they haven't eaten it down, I try to move mine very 2 weeks at most.  Keeping things clean helps but goats should never be eating close to the ground no matter how clean it is.  

Your wormers may not be working.  In a lot of places, years of regular and unwarranted worming has caused the worms to become resistant.  Pasture rotation, worming at need and not on schedule (learn FAMACHA) and NOT rotating wormers (use one that works until it no longer does)  is are the keys to parasite management.  

I am sorry you are having this trouble.  Heat and humidity are going to bring out the parasites.


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