# Planning rabbit colony, your opinions?



## CloverHollow05 (Sep 3, 2021)

Hello! I have a holland lop rabbitry. My 10 rabbits are currently living in wire bottomed cages. Three of the rabbits are split between two outdoor hutches, six of them are in stackers in the shed, and one is in a dog crate in the shed. I am planning my fall litters and realized a long time ago that I need a better setup! I need more space for a more affordable price than those stackers, which are like $300 to house 3 rabbits. I have a neighbor who raises meat rabbits in a colony setting, so I talked to her and looked at her facebook page, and really love the idea of a colony. The care and maintenance seems more manageable, the rabbits just look so genuinely happy to be together, and they have access to fresh grass and lots of space.

My plan is to buy those 8 ft wooden posts from Lowes, space them 8 feet apart buried 1 to 2 feet deep, run welded wire between them, throw some bird netting laced with shiny ribbon as the roof, bury some totes and buckets as hides and nest boxes, grow some grass (planning on tall fescue), and set up 2 or 3 feeding and water areas. It has priced out to about $400 and will be 36' by 16' and 6' tall so I can walk in. Following the 30 square feet per rabbit rule, I can have 20 rabbits. I do plan to fence in a smaller section within the enclosure for my bucks, so I can plan my litters. If it works out, I hope to add continental giant (maybe a buck and 2 or 3 does) in the future.

My questions:
What are your thoughts on this plan?
Does that roof sound ok?
How deep should I bury wire or gravel so they can't dig out?
Do the bucks need to be separated in their own 2'-3' by 8' enclosure, or can they share an 8' by 8' enclosure? I have 2 bucks.
If I ever added a giant breed in the future (I am interested in Continental giants) could they share the colony with the lops?
Is there anything I am missing or anything I should know about colony setups before I jump in?
How long does grass take to grow? (I have heard many mixed opinions)

Edit: The wire is 3 inch by 4 inch with 1/2 inch babysaver wire on the bottom 6 to 12 inches and the bird netting on the roof  is 2.5 inch. Does this sound ok? Should I worry about possums?

Thanks! (sorry if I posted this in the wrong section)


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## Alaskan (Sep 3, 2021)

My first question...  where do you live?

Bird netting tops do not work if you get heavy snow.

I have never used a netting top where I needed nighttime protection (but I have chickens,  not rabbits)....  so... I worry a bit about owls or raccoons ripping a hole to enter.....

What predators do you have?


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 3, 2021)

Alaskan said:


> My first question...  where do you live?
> 
> Bird netting tops do not work if you get heavy snow.
> 
> ...


Oops, I forgot to add that to my profile! I am in central VA. Our predators are mainly coyotes, possums, and birds. We have a wooded area around our yard, but we have 3 large livestock guardian dogs who did a wonderful job when we had ducks. We sometimes hear the owls way out in the woods. The dogs bark at the birds during the day, and who knows what they bark at during the night! The coyotes do not come inside the dogs area though.

We do not get heavy snow.
Edit: We have only had a raccoon in the dog's area once since getting the dogs 4 years ago. We are pretty certain it had rabies though as it was broad daylight and it's behavior was very bold, but wobbly.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 4, 2021)

If it would be better, I could get 1 inch netting for the roof, and get enough that I could put it on the floor as well under a thin layer of dirt before I plant my grass, so the rabbits don't dig out!


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## secuono (Sep 4, 2021)

They're going to be eaten.

You need wire on the bottom, 1/2×1 inch wire on the walls and 1×1 inch wire on the roof. Or do solid roof. At least 1.5ft should be tiny hole wire or use solid wood. Higher can be larger, but foxes, weasles, rats can get in.

No solid roof means soggy rabbits. Soggy rabbits are sickly, dead rabbits. Snow will collapse it from the little we do get in Va. 

Posts 2ft in the ground, so freezes don't move them. 

Moms might share nests or kill kits, have to try it to know what will happen. 

Breeding will be random, unless bucks live separately and does are brought to each individually for breeding. 

Does fought a bit worse than bucks, but with enough space, they usually mind their own space. 

You'll need huts for each rabbit, plus a few extras. 

Several water bottles, several hay racks or one very long one. Two or three long feeders or several small feeders for pellets. They will get dumped. 


It's best for rabbits to grow up together than to try and make them get along as adults. You'll have to put the bucks together in the new, big space and spend a few hours out there watching them. They can castrate each other. 
Same with the does.


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## Alaskan (Sep 5, 2021)

I remember a guy on BYC that had great photos of his colony setup.

But i can't find it.

I did find this though:






						Breeding Rabbits Information including Rabbit Breeds, Pens and Care
					

Breeding rabbits needs thought. Plan which rabbit breeds you want, cages or pens, and a rabbit breeding plan to follow. Read more...




					www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com
				




And on this thread on BYC, scroll down to post #9 where Moonshiner starts going over his experience.









						Rabbit in colony setup
					

Hi, I'm wondering if it would be OK to room a male rabbit with 2 does and 9, 10 week old, kits? The space of the room they're in (not cage room) is at least 8x10. One doe has already been mated with (2 days ago). I could keep the poor guy in a cage but if I have the space I want him to be more...




					www.backyardchickens.com


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## Alaskan (Sep 5, 2021)

Found it!









						The Nordic Hare Pen
					

As the name would suggest, this structure is actually used for keeping a rabbit (and later her offspring), but with some minor modifications, I think this would work great for chickens too, so I thought I'd write up an article on the build. If it...




					www.backyardchickens.com


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 5, 2021)

Alaskan said:


> I remember a guy on BYC that had great photos of his colony setup.
> 
> But i can't find it.
> 
> ...





Alaskan said:


> Found it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oooooo thank you!


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 5, 2021)

secuono said:


> You need wire on the bottom, 1/2×1 inch wire on the walls and 1×1 inch wire on the roof.


Ok... I am finding 1/4 inch wire for cheaper than I can find 1/2 inch by 1 inch, is there anything wrong with such small holes? Are we talking about chicken wire or welded wire? I am thinking welded wire (I know some people call it hardware cloth)


secuono said:


> Does fought a bit worse than bucks, but with enough space, they usually mind their own space.


My space would have about 500 square feet of space between my 7 does.



secuono said:


> Snow will collapse it from the little we do get in Va.


Snow will collapse the wire or the net?


secuono said:


> Moms might share nests or kill kits, have to try it to know what will happen.





secuono said:


> You'll need huts for each rabbit, plus a few extras.


I planned to bury totes for the rabbits' nests and hides. Enough for each of my does, plus a couple extras. And I do plan to have my bucks separated, each with their own buried tote for shelter.


So the netting on the roof is not a safe option then? Would motion sensor lights (i found some solar powered ones on amazon for $30) be good to have no matter what roofing I have?

Thank you for your help!


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## Alasgun (Sep 5, 2021)

Im curious as to why so much effort is going into such a set up? There’s  been numerous formal studies done that show raising rabbits on wire is healthier for the rabbits and less stressful for the rabbitere. (you)

many years ago mother earth news ran a story about a french colony where they simply arranged alfalfa square bales on the ground like a maze, leaving tunnels and open common areas for the bunnies. Then another layer in top which was solid, no spacing. Like most stuff in the M.E.N  back then, it sounded better than it worked out. I wasnt into rabbits at the time but remembered thinking, gee this looks interesting.

Raising rabbits isn’t that difficult, stick with the science to keep it from becoming so!


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## Larsen Poultry Ranch (Sep 5, 2021)

Do not use chicken wire. It is designed to keep chickens on one side or another, but is NOT predator proof, especially as it ages. Use hardware cloth/welded wire.

You say you are trying to plan out your litters, colony living makes that more difficult than cage living. You will need to keep the bucks separate, and bring the does individually to the bucks in order to have control over the breedings. Please note that the does may fight, especially if one comes back smelling like a buck, even if they got along before. The does will also attempt to hide their litters, and likely won't always use the hides you provide. You won't be able to inspect the litters until they are more mobile, and if they dig send, you will have a very difficult time catching them. If you are trying to track the lineage for pedigrees, it will be very difficult to tell proper parentage if litters are the same age. If you are planning to eat all the offspring then that won't matter.

I am not familiar with Holland lops, are they standard size or dwarf? If you are planning to add giant rabbits later, be aware you will want to be very careful with breeding different size rabbits together, the buck should always be smaller than the doe, or you could end up with stuck kits. If you kept a buck of each type and only bred like to like, there shouldn't be an issue.


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## Larsen Poultry Ranch (Sep 5, 2021)

I have been able to find cages online for 25-35 each, are you sure a colony setup is really the way you want to go? You could probably buy the wire and make cages even less expensive than that.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 5, 2021)

Alasgun said:


> Im curious as to why so much effort is going into such a set up? There’s  been numerous formal studies done that show raising rabbits on wire is healthier for the rabbits and less stressful for the rabbitere. (you)
> 
> many years ago mother earth news ran a story about a french colony where they simply arranged alfalfa square bales on the ground like a maze, leaving tunnels and open common areas for the bunnies. Then another layer in top which was solid, no spacing. Like most stuff in the M.E.N  back then, it sounded better than it worked out. I wasnt into rabbits at the time but remembered thinking, gee this looks interesting.
> 
> Raising rabbits isn’t that difficult, stick with the science to keep it from becoming so!


The price to build the colony setup is more affordable than the cages, the chores in the colony i think are much less time consuming than cages, I think the rabbits would really benefit from being on the grass and having all that space to stretch their little legs. In addition, I do not breed for meat or show right now. I am not needing to have the most efficient setup, i don’t need to be producing litters as often as a meat breeder would, my focus is mainly having happy rabbits and producing healthy babies with the goal of improving our breeding lines. 


Larsen Poultry Ranch said:


> Do not use chicken wire. It is designed to keep chickens on one side or another, but is NOT predator proof, especially as it ages. Use hardware cloth/welded wire.


That’s what I’ve heard!


Larsen Poultry Ranch said:


> You say you are trying to plan out your litters, colony living makes that more difficult than cage living. You will need to keep the bucks separate, and bring the does individually to the bucks in order to have control over the breedings. Please note that the does may fight, especially if one comes back smelling like a buck, even if they got along before. The does will also attempt to hide their litters, and likely won't always use the hides you provide. You won't be able to inspect the litters until they are more mobile, and if they dig send, you will have a very difficult time catching them. If you are trying to track the lineage for pedigrees, it will be very difficult to tell proper parentage if litters are the same age. If you are planning to eat all the offspring then that won't matter.


I plan to have a separated enclosure for the bucks, and I would never cross the different breeds. With the totes, there are lids and you can access the totes from the top to check in on the babies. Typically by the time the Holland’s (Which are a dwarf breed) are leaving the nests their faces are mature enough to tell them apart.


Larsen Poultry Ranch said:


> I have been able to find cages online for 25-35 each, are you sure a colony setup is really the way you want to go? You could probably buy the wire and make cages even less expensive than that.


Part of my problem is that I don’t have a place to hang cages. We currently have our rabbits in the shed, and it just gets so many wasps, it gets so hot, and I just feel like the rabbits aren‘t really enjoying life (sure they are happy and healthy) in the cages. If I were simply breeding for meat I think it would be different.


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## Larsen Poultry Ranch (Sep 5, 2021)

My cages aren't hanging. I have them set up on metal sawhorses at a good height to reach in through the door. 

If there are wasp issues, can you hang up a wasp catcher thing? Or put a box fan blowing near the rabbits so the wasps won't go near the fast moving air?


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## secuono (Sep 5, 2021)

I had 2×3in welded wire over a chicken run. And heavy duty tarp over top, wood to hold it up and drain.
That has lasted 10+ years, new tarp every 2yrs, swept the snow off as it built up.

Had rabbits on grass, they'll kill it all off and you'll be left with dirt/mud. Water will seep down into the tunnels/nests, so better to build above ground tunnels. 

Parasites are another big problem. If you don't move them to fresh grass, they'll get wormy. 

Had them on concrete in the shed, too. 

Eventually, I realized that in cages is best and bring the grass to them. Bring them out to play in a big space occasionally. Limited grass, as it wasn't high enough protein, so they got thin. It didn't reduce the pellet feed bill.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 5, 2021)

Larsen Poultry Ranch said:


> My cages aren't hanging. I have them set up on metal sawhorses at a good height to reach in through the door.
> 
> If there are wasp issues, can you hang up a wasp catcher thing? Or put a box fan blowing near the rabbits so the wasps won't go near the fast moving air?


Ohhhhh ok, that is interesting!

I tried a fan. The problem is, they now have a nest. It’s not like a problem, they don’t cause any trouble, it just kinda bothers me... the heat is the biggest issue in my current setup, and the fan hardly makes a difference.




secuono said:


> I had 2×3in welded wire over a chicken run. And heavy duty tarp over top, wood to hold it up and drain.
> That has lasted 10+ years, new tarp every 2yrs, swept the snow off as it built up.


Ohhh ok. Tarps are relatively inexpensive, so that sounds like a good option! Does the tarp go down the sides of the enclosure at all? When we had ducks, we tarped in a full corner.


secuono said:


> Eventually, I realized that in cages is best and bring the grass to them. Bring them out to play in a big space occasionally. Limited grass, as it wasn't high enough protein, so they got thin. It didn't reduce the pellet feed bill.


Oh. Well hmm


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## secuono (Sep 5, 2021)

CloverHollow05 said:


> Ohhhhh ok, that is interesting!
> 
> I tried a fan. The problem is, they now have a nest. It’s not like a problem, they don’t cause any trouble, it just kinda bothers me... the heat is the biggest issue in my current setup, and the fan hardly makes a difference.
> 
> ...



I'd cover most of the sides. It needs good air flow, but protection from rain. 

Using bungee chords will help them last longer.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 5, 2021)

secuono said:


> I'd cover most of the sides. It needs good air flow, but protection from rain.
> 
> Using bungee chords will help them last longer.


Thank you for your help!


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## Larsen Poultry Ranch (Sep 5, 2021)

My buns are in cages on metal sawhorses, under a tarped carport from Harbor freight. I also installed misters along the long edge in addition to the box fans which are on the short ends blowing through all the cages. If the temp is going to into the 80s, I turn on the fans. If it's going above 90 I turn on the misters. The misters will ruin the feed pellets so I remove the feed if I use the misters. The rabbits don't eat during the heat anyway because it will raise their body temperature. 

I have hanging water bottles but also add crocks when it's warmer as the bottles heat up faster and rabbits won't drink water that is too warm.


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## Grizzlyhackle (Sep 6, 2021)

Right now I've got 5 adults and 5 young. All in raised wire and wood hutches. 4 are under a harbor freight  cloth covered carport. The rest are under tarps in two old dog pens. I'm across the Chesapeake from you so my weather's similar.
I wouldn't do a colony. I realize wire and materials are expensive. I'm building a hutch now and sweating how much I'm spending. Everything that's been posted as negatives I agree with.
Snow and rain, they're off the ground and dry. Snow here is generally light until it isn't. The tarps and wire might buckle, plywood roof won't.
I had wasps once in the hutch. Didn't bother the rabbit or me, winter I pulled it out.
Winter you wrap the sides with heavy plastic or tarps on the prevailing wind side.
In separate cages or hutches you can tell who is eating or drinking, control your breeding, handle the kits.
On the ground I would imagine you'll have more problems with ticks, mites and probably fleas.
Summer time definitely sucks it's been close to 100 under the carport couple of times. Freeze some soda bottles, ceramic or granite tiles. They lay on them or not but I give them the chance. I change the water twice a day.
On the ground they will eat everything nothing will grow for long. You'd have too have different pens like having different pastures. In a cage they relieve themselves in the same spot everyday. You'll have to dig that out occasionally on the ground and put down lime to stop the flies.
I wanted to do a colony myself but I feel in the long run hutches/ covered cages are the way to go.
You commented about netting. Use wire. Any kind of net will rot in the ground or in the sun. When you least expect it you'll get a hole. Same with chicken wire.
Any wood you use can't be treated. If they can reach it they chew it and everything I've read that's bad for the animal, dogs included.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 6, 2021)

Larsen Poultry Ranch said:


> My buns are in cages on metal sawhorses, under a tarped carport from Harbor freight. I also installed misters along the long edge in addition to the box fans which are on the short ends blowing through all the cages. If the temp is going to into the 80s, I turn on the fans. If it's going above 90 I turn on the misters. The misters will ruin the feed pellets so I remove the feed if I use the misters. The rabbits don't eat during the heat anyway because it will raise their body temperature.
> 
> I have hanging water bottles but also add crocks when it's warmer as the bottles heat up faster and rabbits won't drink water that is too warm.


Ohhhhhh ok. We used crocks in the summer, and our doe layed in them, got her dewlap wet, then because of the moisture being held against her skin got an awful infection, so we were told to use bottles. Thank you for your help!


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 6, 2021)

Grizzlyhackle said:


> Right now I've got 5 adults and 5 young. All in raised wire and wood hutches. 4 are under a harbor freight  cloth covered carport. The rest are under tarps in two old dog pens. I'm across the Chesapeake from you so my weather's similar.
> I wouldn't do a colony. I realize wire and materials are expensive. I'm building a hutch now and sweating how much I'm spending. Everything that's been posted as negatives I agree with.
> Snow and rain, they're off the ground and dry. Snow here is generally light until it isn't. The tarps and wire might buckle, plywood roof won't.
> I had wasps once in the hutch. Didn't bother the rabbit or me, winter I pulled it out.
> ...


Ah ok. It sounds like a colony is just not the way to go then!


Thank you everyone for all your help, you’ve talked me out of it! I appreciate all the advice and you all sharing your experiences with different setups! Thank you all so much!


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 8, 2021)

it sounds like you have gotten some good advice, I agree with not going with a colony style for many reasons. But I wanted to mention we have gone to a store bought cage that is not as expensive ($50 when we got ours a year ago, they are now about $70) and is very good in our opinion. nice heavy wire bottoms that last longer than the wire from previous cages, and we hung them up so they are more or less stacked. These hold one adult or two jr rabbits just fine. then for breeding, I use really large dog cages that my husband has put a layer of heavy wire on the bottom - this allows mom and babies to have lots of room until time to separate them out. 
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Wabbitat-Folding-Rabbit-Cage/dp/B0002AT3K6


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 11, 2021)

Hideaway Pines said:


> it sounds like you have gotten some good advice, I agree with not going with a colony style for many reasons. But I wanted to mention we have gone to a store bought cage that is not as expensive ($50 when we got ours a year ago, they are now about $70) and is very good in our opinion. nice heavy wire bottoms that last longer than the wire from previous cages, and we hung them up so they are more or less stacked. These hold one adult or two jr rabbits just fine. then for breeding, I use really large dog cages that my husband has put a layer of heavy wire on the bottom - this allows mom and babies to have lots of room until time to separate them out.
> https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Wabbitat-Folding-Rabbit-Cage/dp/B0002AT3K6


Oooo that sounds like a nice setup. My biggest problem is that I don't have $70 to spend on each cage, when I need to house 8 or more rabbits at once.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 11, 2021)

I am thinking about building my own cages, what is the smallest wire I could use on the sides and the smallest wire I could use on the bottom? I want the poop to fall through, but I can’t find 1/2 inch by 1 inch or even 1/2 inch, all I can find is 1/4 inch with 23 gauge. I have 1/4 inch on the floors of my hutches and the poop falls through, but I didn’t know if it was sturdy enough to hold up to the weight of the rabbits without the wood frame like on the hutches. is 1/4 inch ok on the sides and roof, or can anyone recommend an affordable place to order or get 1/2 or 1 inch wire?


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 11, 2021)

CloverHollow05 said:


> I am thinking about building my own cages, what is the smallest wire I could use on the sides and the smallest wire I could use on the bottom? I want the poop to fall through, but I can’t find 1/2 inch by 1 inch or even 1/2 inch, all I can find is 1/4 inch with 23 gauge. I have 1/4 inch on the floors of my hutches and the poop falls through, but I didn’t know if it was sturdy enough to hold up to the weight of the rabbits without the wood frame like on the hutches. is 1/4 inch ok on the sides and roof, or can anyone recommend an affordable place to order or get 1/2 or 1 inch wire?


actually we use 1/2 inch by 1 inch wire/fence material - it is heavier than hardware cloth and lasts much longer, the poop falls through easily and it is very strong so holds up well as the bottom. After having to replace the hardware cloth on the bottom of our cages we built, we went with this - and it is wonderful!!!


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 11, 2021)

Hideaway Pines said:


> actually we use 1/2 inch by 1 inch wire/fence material - it is heavier than hardware cloth and lasts much longer, the poop falls through easily and it is very strong so holds up well as the bottom. After having to replace the hardware cloth on the bottom of our cages we built, we went with this - and it is wonderful!!!


Like welded wire? Or more like what’s on the dog crates? Are welded wire and hardware cloth not the same thing?


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 11, 2021)

yes, here is a link to the kind of wire


			https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/1%20inch%20cage%20wire?


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 11, 2021)

no they are not the same, cage welded wire is heavier and stronger


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 11, 2021)

believe me it is the best we have tried - you will not be sorry you chose to use it on the bottoms


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## Alasgun (Sep 11, 2021)

Plug “rabbit cage wire” into a search engine and a number of sources will pop up.
the most common and as already mentioned best overall choice for bottom wire is 14ga. 1 by 1/2, galvanized after welding. 
I bought mine from the folks in Wisconsin and had a pallet of wire sent to Alaska. 
i wish we had a “Tractor supply” up here!


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 12, 2021)

Ok, I think we are thinking of the same thing! So I have a few more questions.

How high up the edge of the cage should my babysaver wire go? Is 3 inches ok, or would 4 inches be better? (My stackers have metal urine guards going 4 inches up and we have never had an issue, but I want to do wire for my new setup)

I plan to mount the new cages on wooden posts, either mount them directly to the wooden posts, or use a chain to have them hung between posts. Which sounds safer? Is it possible to make the cages with a 36" depth  in that situation, or would 24"-30" be better?

Does the wire gauge matter on the sides?


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## Alasgun (Sep 12, 2021)

I have no experience with “baby saver” wire. It’s essentially the same spacing as the floor wire and i understand the concept; however, my kits are always born in nest boxes that contains them until they’re 2-3 weeks old. By then they cant get thru the 1 by 2 side wire. Once they start exploring outside the nest box, i toss in a slice of hay and dump them out. Never had any issues either but that’s not to say other arrangements are better or worse, just what’s worked for me!

Our rabbitry is set up with 28 deep by 34 wide holes, simply because that’s how the math worked out. This is inside the building. Then outside, they each have 36 by 36 cages with a wall pennetration between them. During the winter they are plugged and everyone stays inside!

All cages are fastened to the back wall and supported by chains on the front side. Wire guage is 16 ga by 1 by 2 inch for the wall’s.

this site’s acting squirelly today for some reason! Go to my profile page and look for Alasgun’s hopper haven rabbitry and you can get a better visual on my cage arrangement, which is far more complicated than necessary. That’s what happens when retired people take on something new!


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 12, 2021)

the cage welded wire only needs to be on the bottom, you can go up an inch or so if that is easier, but hardware cloth is great for the rest of the cage. On the input that Alasgun said, I agree, babies need to be born in a nesting box and they do not leave this box until they are fine to be on the wire of this size. the size of your cage depends on the set up you have, you will have to brace the bottom if you go really large, to ensure the bottom is not going to sag, and again keep in mind ease of cleaning and keeping them safe from predator's. Our cages are in an enclosed building where one side had hardware cloth reinforced with hog panels to allow air flow but no access from critters wanting to eat them. we also buried hardware cloth out three feet around this building which is half rabbits half chickens. so far (6 years now) we have not lost any of our animals. 

as far as if you use posts or hang them, rabbits do hop around a lot, so if you hang them, stabilize them so they do not swing. but go for what you feel works best for your set up.


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## Finnie (Sep 14, 2021)

CloverHollow05 said:


> Ok, I think we are thinking of the same thing! So I have a few more questions.
> 
> How high up the edge of the cage should my babysaver wire go? Is 3 inches ok, or would 4 inches be better? (My stackers have metal urine guards going 4 inches up and we have never had an issue, but I want to do wire for my new setup)
> 
> ...


I had this book, and it has detailed plans on building wire cages. (I didn’t pay $20 for the book, maybe Amazon isn’t the best source for this one. I probably got mine from Tractor Supply.) https://www.amazon.com/Rabbit-Housing-Planning-Equipping-Facilities/dp/1603429662

It’s a pretty good book overall for learning about rabbit equipment and supplies.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 14, 2021)

Finnie said:


> I had this book, and it has detailed plans on building wire cages. (I didn’t pay $20 for the book, maybe Amazon isn’t the best source for this one. I probably got mine from Tractor Supply.) https://www.amazon.com/Rabbit-Housing-Planning-Equipping-Facilities/dp/1603429662
> 
> It’s a pretty good book overall for learning about rabbit equipment and supplies.


Ooooooo ok, thank you! I will have to check it out!


Thank you everyone for your help!


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## Grizzlyhackle (Sep 18, 2021)

I bought a roll of 30" x1"x1/2" 16 awg just last week at tsc. Used to be sourced from China this was from Vietnam. I have bought several in the last 5 yrs. This was the first roll that had spliced sections welded and some of the splices didn't hold, which left maybe three pieces poking out. Watch your hands.
Also the galvanizing didn't take or wasn't done again in those areas. 
I only use the 16 awg on the sides, it's to small for big rabbits feet. Learned that the hard way. I bought a roll of the 14 guage from klubertanz?? in Wisconsin. Its not cheap but easy on the feet and should outlast me. I don't know if it's the quality of the wire or the thickness makes a difference. 16 awg from TSC and Lowes same mfg,distributor, doesn't hold up to the pee and poop like the 14 has. I've  had to replace sections. I screw everything together so I can pull it apart easier. Pulling the poultry staples that hold the wire on the wood frame is another story.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 19, 2021)

Grizzlyhackle said:


> I bought a roll of 30" x1"x1/2" 16 awg just last week at tsc. Used to be sourced from China this was from Vietnam. I have bought several in the last 5 yrs. This was the first roll that had spliced sections welded and some of the splices didn't hold, which left maybe three pieces poking out. Watch your hands.
> Also the galvanizing didn't take or wasn't done again in those areas.
> I only use the 16 awg on the sides, it's to small for big rabbits feet. Learned that the hard way. I bought a roll of the 14 guage from klubertanz?? in Wisconsin. Its not cheap but easy on the feet and should outlast me. I don't know if it's the quality of the wire or the thickness makes a difference. 16 awg from TSC and Lowes same mfg,distributor, doesn't hold up to the pee and poop like the 14 has. I've  had to replace sections. I screw everything together so I can pull it apart easier. Pulling the poultry staples that hold the wire on the wood frame is another story.


Ohhhhhhhh ok!


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 22, 2021)

I have been continuing to do research and pricing wires and such. I have some 3 ft wire on hand that I would like to use for the floor of my cage. I thought it was 1/4 inch openings, turns out its 1/2 inch openings! I believe it is 19 gauge. My rabbits are small, 3 or 4 pounds. I do give them straw and hay to rest their feet from the wire. I actually have two of my largest rabbits on this wire currently and have had no issues with their feet getting sores.  It would cut down the cost a large amount, as it was leftover from a project a family member never finished, but if it has a negative impact on the rabbit I am completely willing to pay the extra money to get different wire. Would this be ok to use?


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## Hideaway Pines (Sep 22, 2021)

As far as I can see it should be fine. Since you have rabbits on this wire already, it sounds like it would be a good option. As long as the poop can fall through it then go for it. Also, I use plastic guards in my cages too, that gives them something else to be on, and I have not had any sore hops since using them now almost on 3 years. But I am always a fan of using material I have when possible. I hope that works well for you.


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## Grizzlyhackle (Sep 23, 2021)

I started off with Flemish Giants and a Champagne so even the 16 guage was tough on them.
Use what you have if it works for you. One of my doors is covered with the small weave I call rat wire, another hutch most of it is covered in 1/2". Costs too much to waste.


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 23, 2021)

Hideaway Pines said:


> As far as I can see it should be fine. Since you have rabbits on this wire already, it sounds like it would be a good option. As long as the poop can fall through it then go for it. Also, I use plastic guards in my cages too, that gives them something else to be on, and I have not had any sore hops since using them now almost on 3 years. But I am always a fan of using material I have when possible. I hope that works well for you.


Wonderful! Thank you!


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## CloverHollow05 (Sep 23, 2021)

Grizzlyhackle said:


> I started off with Flemish Giants and a Champagne so even the 16 guage was tough on them.
> Use what you have if it works for you. One of my doors is covered with the small weave I call rat wire, another hutch most of it is covered in 1/2". Costs too much to waste.


Ohhh ok. Yep, gotta use every bit you can! Thank you for your help!


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## Cotton*wood (Oct 29, 2021)

If you have time, you might check out auctions.  I was at a small livestock auction the other day, and there was an enormous pile of wire cages that sold for about $2/cage.


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## CloverHollow05 (Nov 5, 2021)

that is a great idea, thank you


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