# Flat collar or slip lead for bringing home kids?



## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 19, 2016)

In June-July I will be bringing home two 8-12 week old Nigerian Dwarf wethers. I just wanted to make sure there was no unforeseen issues with using a slip lead on them for travel and leading time in lieu of a lead on a flat collar? I was not certain of the size of collar that would be most appropriate as they will be so small and thought that a slip leash can at least grow with them.

Thanks!


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## Devonviolet (Nov 19, 2016)

Hi Miranda.  Allow me to be the first one to give you a big Texas Howdy, and welcome you to Backyard Herds!

​I'm by no means an expert, but I would think using a slip lead would work fine. Would it be possible to ask the seller to measure their necks, and let you know the size  (in inches), so you can buy a woven, buckle collar? I would think that would be the most secure way to lead a goat.  Is it possible the seller would have collars on them when you get them?

We have four Nigerian Dwarfs & they always have a buckle collar on. We got them at 8 months and they came with collars. I'm thinking we put bigger collars on each of them at about 18 months.

We haven't had to do it in a while, but if they sneak out the gate, when we are going in or out, I have learned, that the easiest way to get them back, is to do a slip loop, using the handle end of a 6' woven lead. I put the slip loop over my hand. Then, I put a bowl of their favorite treat (feed pellets) in the same hand. They are a sucker for treats.   so, instead of running away, they start eating. That makes it really easy to slip the lead over their head.   then off we go . . . back inside the gate.   

I hope that answers your question.  If not, I'm thinking @Southern by choice, or @babsbag will have a better answer. They are two of our many goat gurus here on BYH.


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## babsbag (Nov 19, 2016)

@Devonviolet gave you great advice. For my little kids I go to the Dollar Tree store and buy the small dog collar; they work on my minis just fine. They would probably work on nigis too. The slip lead is fine, but they will try to choke themselves if they aren't used to it. I too slip a leash through the handle and use that as the "collar".  With goats that young what ever you use there should be no problem, but with big goats I like the slip lead just in case the collar breaks. But all of my goats wear flat collars all of the time.


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## babsbag (Nov 19, 2016)

And welcome to BYH. Hope you enjoy your visits here and share more about your farm. We like any and all pictures.


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## Devonviolet (Nov 19, 2016)

Yes! LOTS of pictures! We LOVE goat pictures!  Oh heck . . . we like photos of all animals! The more the better!


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## Latestarter (Nov 19, 2016)

Greetings and welcome to BYH! Make yourself at home and if you have questions, just ask away! There's already a wealth of info, experience and knowledge shared in the various threads. Browse around a bit and jump right in when you hear the call!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Devonviolet said:


> Hi Miranda.  Allow me to be the first one to give you a big Texas Howdy, and welcome you to Backyard Herds!
> 
> ​I'm by no means an expert, but I would think using a slip lead would work fine. Would it be possible to ask the seller to measure their necks, and let you know the size  (in inches), so you can buy a woven, buckle collar? I would think that would be the most secure way to lead a goat.  Is it possible the seller would have collars on them when you get them?
> 
> ...



Thank you so much for your response!! I hadn't totally expected the boards to be so active -- or I would have checked back sooner to see responses! 

I guess I should have done a bit of an introduction:

Hello! I'm Miranda -- I live way up in Kitimat in Northern British Columbia! I have 2 dogs (we just lost one of our old boys ), 26 chickens, a snake, an amazing stepson, and a very patient man!! I'll take that big ol' Texas Howdy any day and follow it up with a Hi there-eh! 

At this time the goats are of course still in the gestation period -- but the breeder has been super informative and super helpful! I'm sure she would definitely be up to pretty much any request that makes the transition easier on both us and the kids. The reason I was asking was I'm super used to having dogs and I used to run an organization that did spay/neuter clinics and took on medical case / behavioural case dogs.  It was always more comfortable to pick up a new pet with either a slip collar and lead or decent harness -- these were always the leash of choice for dogs who may be bolters as they could sometimes back out of their flats etc. I saw a good sale on a dog collar store for some really nice braided leather slip collars + leads and wanted to know if for pick up and for any turn out if these were good more because I'm a vain jerk who wanted my goats to rock some stunning braided leather for their car breaks on their long ride home to Kitimat! Be my little show boat, show goats. 

I've heard mixed on keeping a flat collar on. Our area will have a bit of trees and browse that the goats can get hung up on so I've been wary about having a full time collar. I think with time I'll see how that goes. Our pen is going to be pretty bomb proof due to the predators we have. 

My goat run and home is in Renovation mode! My partner had goats for many many years but the run has been empty for the last 5 years or so.  

We have a goat house that is approximately 8 x 8 ft --- 6 x 6 are a closed shelter with a 2 foot over hang on the front and to one side. For the run I am extending  out so it goes around my stepsons old tree house -- and then I am going to be building ramps up to the tree house / tree perch for the kids.  I'll do updates once we actually get going and start making progress. We have a lot of apex predators in the area so we are doing 5 foot chain link panels with a 2 x 12 extended from the fence posts on top of that. On the ground we have railway ties dug down for any predators who may try and dig in. I'm still debating on if we will run an electric line over the top. Wolves, Grizzlies, Coyotes are the norm here but our chicken coop has kept everything out and is pretty similar in design. 

So hello! Can't wait to be an active poster -- or to take in ANY and all advice offered to me! I am so excited to get started with our goats!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

babsbag said:


> @Devonviolet gave you great advice. For my little kids I go to the Dollar Tree store and buy the small dog collar; they work on my minis just fine. They would probably work on nigis too. The slip lead is fine, but they will try to choke themselves if they aren't used to it. I too slip a leash through the handle and use that as the "collar".  With goats that young what ever you use there should be no problem, but with big goats I like the slip lead just in case the collar breaks. But all of my goats wear flat collars all of the time.


I was worried about a new baby getting more stressed by being choked.. I think I will bring both a flat and a slip and probably 30 options just to make sure we get the right one! haha


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

babsbag said:


> And welcome to BYH. Hope you enjoy your visits here and share more about your farm. We like any and all pictures.



I will share more on our goat run as soon as we get it looking good.. which is looking like we will be starting that in spring as snow is supposed to start flying here any minute now! 

Here is our pre-chickens coop before we added the top to the run -- and some better ventilation.






Harvest day -- one of our plots and our green house. The chickens get to free range with us when we were are out in the yard. My partner works week on week off camp work -- so they get a good week and then a week of just weekends and evenings when my work days are done.






When we first started getting eggs and I made a little post for our local Facebook page:






Went with a pond for helping water the flock!





What it all looked like when I first started -- didn't spend a dime. Used all things found or that we already had to spruce it up to the thing of beauty it became!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Devonviolet said:


> Yes! LOTS of pictures! We LOVE goat pictures!  Oh heck . . . we like photos of all animals! The more the better!


Don't tempt me --- soon you'll be saying... "My God.. yes we get it, it's a goat!! stop with the pictures!!" ahahha


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Latestarter said:


> Greetings and welcome to BYH! Make yourself at home and if you have questions, just ask away! There's already a wealth of info, experience and knowledge shared in the various threads. Browse around a bit and jump right in when you hear the call!



Hello and thank you!! I can't wait to become an active member with goats to share! Can't wait for the first 2 to come home.. and once I get the kinks worked out and figure out how to be a good goat-er ... we can upgrade to a couple more and potentially some larger fibre breeds .. etc.


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## Bruce (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> I will share more on our goat run as soon as we get it looking good.. which is looking like we will be starting that in spring as snow is supposed to start flying here any minute now!
> 
> Here is our pre-chickens coop before we added the top to the run -- and some better ventilation.
> 
> ...



Chickens are so helpful, especially when you want to dig a hole. Only takes about 4x the time so you don't stick the shovel in them as they dash in to snag something you don't even see. 

Nice job on the coop and run. I always forget to take the "before" pictures.

  If you put your location in your profile, people won't have to ask where you live


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## Devonviolet (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> Don't tempt me --- soon you'll be saying... "My God.. yes we get it, it's a goat!! stop with the pictures!!" ahahha


  ​Actually, we practice "goat math" here on BYC, so no danger of us getting tired of goat photos!


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## Devonviolet (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> once I get the kinks worked out and figure out how to be a good goat-er ... we can upgrade to a couple more and potentially some larger fibre breeds .. etc.


See?  You've already figured out how to do "goat math", and you don't even have your first 2 goats.


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## NH homesteader (Nov 20, 2016)

Yes! Goat math! We don't get tired of pictures,  really.  Good for you being prepared ahead of time.  As for the collar question...  I don't typically put collars on my goats,  but if I have a doe that isn't great about following me to the milking stand,  I do.  If you're going to pick up kids,  won't you just physically pick them up? My buckling rode in my lap for an hour  and a half in the car when we brought him home, lol. I would be careful leaving collars on if your goats have horns but if not I guess it's a matter of preference...  My goats come running when I go see them so I can slip a collar on if I need one for a specific purpose.  Works for me.


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## Hens and Roos (Nov 20, 2016)

Welcome glad you joined us, thanks for sharing all the pictures! Very nice looking garden  we took this year off from planting a garden but hope to next spring.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Bruce said:


> Chickens are so helpful, especially when you want to dig a hole. Only takes about 4x the time so you don't stick the shovel in them as they dash in to snag something you don't even see.
> 
> Nice job on the coop and run. I always forget to take the "before" pictures.
> 
> If you put your location in your profile, people won't have to ask where you live



I will update! Thanks!

Oh my, I almost got one at Halloween time trying to slice a pumpkin in half with a shovel! Patience little bird!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

NH homesteader said:


> Yes! Goat math! We don't get tired of pictures,  really.  Good for you being prepared ahead of time.  As for the collar question...  I don't typically put collars on my goats,  but if I have a doe that isn't great about following me to the milking stand,  I do.  If you're going to pick up kids,  won't you just physically pick them up? My buckling rode in my lap for an hour  and a half in the car when we brought him home, lol. I would be careful leaving collars on if your goats have horns but if not I guess it's a matter of preference...  My goats come running when I go see them so I can slip a collar on if I need one for a specific purpose.  Works for me.


My drive home with the goats is 16 hours in one day! We live in a rural spot... So we will have a few stops for leg stretches etc. That was going to be my next post: long transportation on young kids. Any recommendations?


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Hens and Roos said:


> Welcome glad you joined us, thanks for sharing all the pictures! Very nice looking garden  we took this year off from planting a garden but hope to next spring.


We had agreat grow this year! Potatoes, onions, cauliflowers, cabbages, green beans, soy beans, fava beans, corn, beets, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, pumpkins, zucchinis, kale, butter lettuce! It was so warm this year so having eggplants actually do well was a first!


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## NH homesteader (Nov 20, 2016)

Yikes.  Why so far? I live in a rural spot too but the farthest I have gone for a goat is 2 hours.  What state are you in? 

Make sure they have water and hay. Not sure what else but wow that's a long trip!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

NH homesteader said:


> Yikes.  Why so far? I live in a rural spot too but the farthest I have gone for a goat is 2 hours.  What state are you in?
> 
> Make sure they have water and hay. Not sure what else but wow that's a long trip!



We live in Northern BC and then on the coast. All the Nigerian dwarf breeders etc are either on Vancouver Island (So add a ferry in the middle of this trip) or down in Southern BC. We are going to do the drive all in one day so we may be able to have it done in about 14 hours-- but regardless... it's going to be a trip. Planning on having wood chips in crate to suck up urine.. hay available, water and several stops along the way to make sure they have everything they need and to stretch their legs. Car will be quiet etc but I'm not sure if there are more recommendations? 

 Do you think there might be complications with a trip of this length outside of general stress? I have an xl plastic dog kennel we were going to set up and then keep the car draft free and quiet and tag team the drive up.


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## Latestarter (Nov 20, 2016)

I wouldn't recommend carrying a goat kid in your lap for 16 hours... unless you are wearing rubber pants and the car seat is moisture proofed... Many transport them in a pet carryall/cage/crate... They're going to be pretty small and 2 of them should pretty easily fit in a large dog crate. Put some hay in there with them and they should transport just fine.

That coop looks familiar to me... Didn't you post pictures while rehabbing it over on BYC? I think I recall you posting pictures with coyotes in the background and talking about bears. My memory isn't what it once was, but if so, aren't you in Canada someplace? Regardless, glad you're here!  As for too many pics? BWAHHAHAhahaha.... Nevah Happen!  (Although some of us get a bit crotchety when folks quote posts with a lot of pictures in them and leave all the pictures there so we get to scroll through them multiple times to get to the actual post...)


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## Latestarter (Nov 20, 2016)

Wow... posted at the same time.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

NH homesteader said:


> Yikes.  Why so far? I live in a rural spot too but the farthest I have gone for a goat is 2 hours.  What state are you in?
> 
> Make sure they have water and hay. Not sure what else but wow that's a long trip!



Unfortunately the highway goes much of the way East  -- and then all the way Northwest. We have to bypass the coastal mountains.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Latestarter said:


> I wouldn't recommend carrying a goat kid in your lap for 16 hours... unless you are wearing rubber pants and the car seat is moisture proofed... Many transport them in a pet carryall/cage/crate... They're going to be pretty small and 2 of them should pretty easily fit in a large dog crate. Put some hay in there with them and they should transport just fine.
> 
> That coop looks familiar to me... Didn't you post pictures while rehabbing it over on BYC? I think I recall you posting pictures with coyotes in the background and talking about bears. My memory isn't what it once was, but if so, aren't you in Canada someplace? Regardless, glad you're here!  As for too many pics? BWAHHAHAhahaha.... Nevah Happen!  (Although some of us get a bit crotchety when folks quote posts with a lot of pictures in them and leave all the pictures there so we get to scroll through them multiple times to get to the actual post...)


Hahahah VERY good memory!! Yea I did a big post on my clean up -- I took in a lot of good advice and added a bunch of vents etc since then. I seriously love these online communities -- they are SO helpful.

They will be crated! I figured they'd feel more secure in a plastic crate as it can kind of hole them up. Okay so I may try and snuggle them for a few of the stretches.. but that's it!! I promise


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## Bruce (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> My drive home with the goats is 16 hours in one day! We live in a rural spot... So we will have a few stops for leg stretches etc. That was going to be my next post: long transportation on young kids. Any recommendations?



We found that the play places at McDonalds and Burger King made the kids happy. Different kinds of kids though


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## NH homesteader (Nov 20, 2016)

Haha! I told my husband someone said they were driving 16 hours to get some goats and he said "what,  do they live in BC or something?"  that's funny.  They will be less stressed being together.  When you get them home and settled,  you should have a fecal sample checked by a vet if possible.  The stress of moving can cause a parasite bloom. You'll hear all about it if you read up on here before getting them.

If you want to learn all about the "exciting"  world of parasites (lol)  go to the articles and read the ones by @Southern by choice.  You will be ahead of the game if you do it now!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

I put reservations on 2 wethers with a breeder --- the babes come registration papers, disbudded, de-wormed, vaccinated, and tattooed. Herd is tested annually for CAE, Johne's and free of CL abscesses. Farm is registered with the Canadian Goat Society. 

I really wanted to make sure we went with goats that were from healthy lines and a farm that will readily take calls/emails etc and help with information along the way. 

A goat is a goat -- but we wanted to start off with something that helps us get used to goat quirks. Dave has had goats in the past but he's a little more old school Portuguese let's figure this out as we go and I'm a little more spoil and love.. and let's figure everything out and by the book it--- get a good line to start so we can have support and a little bit of background on the health of the babes! 

We were able to pick a breeding pair to get our names on the reservation list but we were happy to take any kids that the breeder feels would be best for a hobby farm / pet type lifestyle. So if Little Hazelnut here has a boy that will be our first goat boy. As she is on the smaller side she is a good candidate to have boys wethered. Our second boy may be from her if she has 2 or, but like I said -- any boy that the breeder says will be a good fit I am happy to have. 

Are you ready for pictures?!

















Her as a doeling





She was bred to Mister Hennessey 





His background:





Their kids from last years kidding season:


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Bruce said:


> We found that the play places at McDonalds and Burger King made the kids happy. Different kinds of kids though


I bet it would work on these kids too ... once they settled in. hahahaah


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## Southern by choice (Nov 20, 2016)

I would try not to get in/out of the vehicle at all if possible on the trip home. More stress. The shavings will catch the urine and droppings. This is a baby goat, better to just travel straight.

I prefer on baby goats this- a harness. We use thes on all our baby kid goats. Less issues, no trachea damage. It allows freedom when walking until they get use to a collar. We DO NOT leave the harness on them. Just when we are walking them in an area that is not secured. 

We do put flat puppy collars on our baby goats that stay on. It gets them use to it until you are ready for lead training.
Here is a pic of a kid a few weeks old.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

NH homesteader said:


> Haha! I told my husband someone said they were driving 16 hours to get some goats and he said "what,  do they live in BC or something?"  that's funny.  They will be less stressed being together.  When you get them home and settled,  you should have a fecal sample checked by a vet if possible.  The stress of moving can cause a parasite bloom. You'll hear all about it if you read up on here before getting them.
> 
> If you want to learn all about the "exciting"  world of parasites (lol)  go to the articles and read the ones by @Southern by choice.  You will be ahead of the game if you do it now!


Bahhaha -- Really?!?!?! smart man! We are not too far from Alaska! Goats come up here on the buy and sells but they are typically bucks and typically just one at a time. Also I don't necessarily trust the vetting / health of all of them in the area so it'd have to be goats from a source I felt confident in. 

I have been trying to figure out all the worming etc!! We kind of suck for supply shop options here (And vets!!!) The vets in Terrace no longer take livestock so we will have to hit up the vets in Smithers which is also a 2 hour drive. Our Kitimat vet would take in an Emergency but doesn't have the comfort with the animals as the Smithers vets. 

I have experience giving shots to horses, and worming horses etc. I also have some crazy experience working at animal refuge in Namibia for 2 months doing vet tech-ish work and I've done spay/neuter health and wellness clinics for dogs and cats in some pretty sickening communities so doing hands on vet work doesn't totally freak me out! Of course I would only ever do this as a means of getting to a vet in an emergency.

That is my next step in these next 6 months is setting up a good kit for responding to any an all issues as a preventative means of being able to get a sick goat to a vet.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Southern by choice said:


> I would try not to get in/out of the vehicle at all if possible on the trip home. More stress. The shavings will catch the urine and droppings. This is a baby goat, better to just travel straight.
> 
> I prefer on baby goats this- a harness. We use thes on all our baby kid goats. Less issues, no trachea damage. It allows freedom when walking until they get use to a collar. We DO NOT leave the harness on them. Just when we are walking them in an area that is not secured.
> 
> ...



It would be easy for us to stay in the car with packed lunches etc. Didn't know if the need for some leg stretching would outweigh the stress of stopping. It would cut probably an hour or two off the trip if we don't have to stop.

I agree with the trachea trauma -- if any pulling happens. and they can't get out of it if a harness is properly fitted! This actually may be our best option till they are a bit bigger and used to being led etc.


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## Southern by choice (Nov 20, 2016)

Harnesses are IMO much better and work very well. No need to stop. Leg stretching is not an issue. As long as the crate is big enough for them to stand in you ar fine.

I just read about your lack of vets.
I strongly suggest you buy a good scope and learn ow to run fecals. This is the biggest issue with goats. Coccidia is a kid killer and a cocci bloom is VERY common in a young goat kid. They may leave their farm perfectly fine with little to no oocysts but the travel and new home stress causes a bloom. Has nothing to do with the breeder. Even though the goat may look happy and healthy and do not show any outward signs of stress.


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## Bruce (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> I bet it would work on these kids too ... once they settled in. hahahaah



I know someone from another forum that took some chickens to her brother, long trip. They stopped at McD's and got a chicken salad (minus the chicken) for the chickens. Apparently they loved it.


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## Southern by choice (Nov 20, 2016)

Bruce said:


> I know someone from another forum that took some chickens to her brother, long trip. They stopped at McD's and got a chicken salad (minus the chicken) for the chickens. Apparently they loved it.



Seriously?


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## Latestarter (Nov 20, 2016)

OK... just a point here... Typically buying a weather knocks the price down substantially as the wether is never going to breed and is only good as a companion animal either for humans or other goats, or for your freezer. Typically buying a NON papered animal is substantially cheaper than buying a papered (registered) animal, and the papers are only pertinent if you'll be breeding the animal as heredity is important for breeders. Having said that, I hope you're not paying major "bucks" for a non functional buck (wether)! There's really no need to have a wether registered.

If you want milk from a/the/any doe, then you're going to need a functional buck to breed her with. OK, so here's where goat math rears its ugly...  I mean beautiful head...  You say you're planning on 2 goats and said one was going to be a wether. The result of this is two years or more before you'll have milk. You'll need your doe to be 8 months to a year old before breeding, then since you have a wether, you'll need to find/buy/borrow a buck, and if you get a buck kid, you'll need to wait for him to mature... Then after the breeding it's 5 months till the doe delivers, then you'll need the does milk for the kids, especially if she has twins or more, so figure another 2 months before you can start milking her for you.  Depending on weather and insects where you are, most prefer to breed in fall for spring kids... not too cold, but not warm enough for insect infestations (yet).

So here's the "deal"... what I propose is that you buy TWO does and TWO males... one a good dairy quality buck and the other a whatever quality wether to keep the buck company when you DON'T want the does bred. Nigerians can breed basically year round and come into heat ~ every 21 days or so though their strongest heat is during the fall/early winter months and the bucks typically rut during the fall/early winter.

"Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats go into heat, or experience an estrus cycle approximately every 21 to 28 days. Therefore they can be bred all year round. Most breeders prefer the fall for breeding as Spring allows for the optimum in kidding temperatures. There is no fear of kids freezing in winter cold and no pests such as flies during summer heat to spread disease. This is not to say you can't breed all year, it just means more precautions need to be taken into account. 

The heat cycle in Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats as in all goat breeds, lasts for 1 to 3 days on average with the doe in a standing heat to accept the buck during that time. The standing heat is a very short duration of the heat cycle (standing heat can be anywhere from 1 hour to 3 days) and the owner needs to be alert as to when this time occurs for breeding to be successful. A standing heat means a doe will stand for a buck and not run from him to be bred. Procreation will not take place generally outside of this time" http://www.cornerstonefarm.net/gtcareof.html#pregnancy&kiddingsupplies

They are very small and don't eat much... feeding 4 would double the amount of feed you'll need but since it's such a small amount anyway, it shouldn't prove to be too painful on the wallet. This way the does can be kept together and the buck and wether can be kept together separate from the does until you want to breed them. If you breed them a couple of months apart, then you'll have staggered deliveries and milk for more months of the year 

Enabler?  yup!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Southern by choice said:


> Harnesses are IMO much better and work very well. No need to stop. Leg stretching is not an issue. As long as the crate is big enough for them to stand in you ar fine.
> 
> I just read about your lack of vets.
> I strongly suggest you buy a good scope and learn ow to run fecals. This is the biggest issue with goats. Coccidia is a kid killer and a cocci bloom is VERY common in a young goat kid. They may leave their farm perfectly fine with little to no oocysts but the travel and new home stress causes a bloom. Has nothing to do with the breeder. Even though the goat may look happy and healthy and do not show any outward signs of stress.



I was just reading your article!!! What is the treatment for Coccidia if you do find and is it over the counter or will we need to see a vet ahead of time? I'm just reading to find these answers as well. Lots to take in. I was looking at jefferspet for health / supplement products. We are very much on our own here and I don't like the rely on our vets.

Unfortunately just a short time ago we had a dog go in for dental surgery to remove a bad tooth... The next morning he followed me out of bed at 4:30 am and dropped into a seizure. I knew if I could get him on IV valium quickly he could have a chance but there was no way to get a hold of the vet! They had forgot to update their emergency number and I learned a very valuable lesson that you always confirm the emergency number for post operative care and don't rely on the one on their message / door. Was a really really really hard time. He finally passed on at 7:30 in the morning and we didn't hear from a vet until 8:30.  We tried hunting down his house number but he had done a good job of not making it too publicly known. Don't get me wrong.. he was devastated and super upset by the situation and he's a pretty great vet other than this situation but I've learned to be more self sufficient for all of my animals.


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## Bruce (Nov 20, 2016)

Southern by choice said:


> Seriously?


Yep. The salad for the chickens was take-out, I believe the people ate inside . 

And while one might jump to conclusions about "just how 'froo froo city' are these people?", not the case. Yes they live in a small city (better described as a very very SMALL town) and they cull and butcher their own chickens.


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## Goat Whisperer (Nov 20, 2016)

I think it's smart to start simple and see how it goes. So many get this idea of starting a farm and jump right in, but this isn't always best. Some people do fine but I have seen quite a bit folks getting overwhelmed and end up failing. See how you like goats, get an idea on their care, just learning about them for the first year or so. Yes the thought of having kids/milk sooner is great sometimes waiting and learning really pays off. Who know, if it all goes well you could end up buying a doe in milk etc. 

I agree on using the harness! It's also easier to take them in and out with the harness. 
Very glad you are buying from a tested herd!  

I agree with learning how to run fecals! I can't imagine having goats without a scope. Some vets might be great farm or pet vets, but many don't 'know' goats. Goats are very different than cattle and other farm animals. (Cattle vets will most likely think you are crazy LOL) 

Ask the breeder what they use for cocci and parasite treatment/prevention. It might be wise to buy some of the meds directly from the breeder if you cannot find them locally. 

Will these kids bottle babies?
Try to make sure there is enough room in the crate and have a was to offer some water on stops. I wouldn't walk them around though. Keeping them in the same crate will have less crying/screaming and less stress overall. 

Keep us updated on the progress!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Latestarter said:


> OK... just a point here... Typically buying a weather knocks the price down substantially as the wether is never going to breed and is only good as a companion animal either for humans or other goats, or for your freezer. Typically buying a NON papered animal is substantially cheaper than buying a papered (registered) animal, and the papers are only pertinent if you'll be breeding the animal as heredity is important for breeders. Having said that, I hope you're not paying major "bucks" for a non functional buck (wether)! There's really no need to have a wether registered.
> 
> If you want milk from a/the/any doe, then you're going to need a functional buck to breed her with. OK, so here's where goat math rears its ugly...  I mean beautiful head...  You say you're planning on 2 goats and said one was going to be a wether. The result of this is two years or more before you'll have milk. You'll need your doe to be 8 months to a year old before breeding, then since you have a wether, you'll need to find/buy/borrow a buck, and if you get a buck kid, you'll need to wait for him to mature... Then after the breeding it's 5 months till the doe delivers, then you'll need the does milk for the kids, especially if she has twins or more, so figure another 2 months before you can start milking her for you.  Depending on weather and insects where you are, most prefer to breed in fall for spring kids... not too cold, but not warm enough for insect infestations (yet).
> 
> ...


The wethers did not break the bank at all!! They were $200 each and come with all of the vetting and support and a bale of hay from the original home so that they can get used to our hay up here.. as well as recipes for some herbal feedings and lots and lots of information. The place has been AMAZING. I actually really appreciated the responses from 2 breeders I contacted but the other would have been a 20 + plus trip and I just did not think that was fair or doable. I'd rather support someone who I felt had passion to inform and passion for their stock. 

I went with two wethers with the goat math being that 2 wethers.. we could eventually do 2 does and a buck after the fact and have wether companions. So does together and buck with wethers. (I like that rhyme!) But that is definitely far far down the line. 

I also went with wethers thinking they were the easiest goats to kind of keep health wise so they'd  be a good kick at the can. My other half works in camp so I will be on my own with the goats more often than not-- I also work quite a bit but we have lots of neighbours who are excited with goats and to help out should anything lead to me having one of my 15 hour shifts and that. Our next door neighbour is a dream. 

The waiting list for does in our area is a 1 - 2 years -- they are all reserved. Originally we were going to do a doe and a wether but then when I started reading up more I was more talked around to two wethers... then I contacted and all the doe reserve lists were full and well into cancellation. 

I think with the breeder too -- it was about establishing a relationship with someone who has ties to the other breeders in the province.

I was happy paying for the boys with all the health checks and debudding etc that is inclusive.


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## Southern by choice (Nov 20, 2016)

Very sad.
You will find that owning goats can be difficult sometimes especially if you have no real livestock vet around. Even most livestock vets don't know much about goats.

Cocci prevention is key.
First place to start is asking your breeder if they do cocci prevention (they may or may not) if they do ask what they do and their protocol.

There are several ways to do prevention. Some better than others.
We can get to that later. 

I would ask what their protocol is for CD & T vaccines, any other vaccines etc.
Make sure you either buy a bag of feed from them so you can transition or buy a few pounds from them so kids adjust over time. Schedule this in advance. Same as hay. For little Nigerians we send home a big bag of our hay so they can adjust. If someone is buying a small herd we send home a bale.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Goat Whisperer said:


> I think it's smart to start simple and see how it goes. So many get this idea of starting a farm and jump right in, but this isn't always best. Some people do fine but I have seen quite a bit folks getting overwhelmed and end up failing. See how you like goats, get an idea on their care, just learning about them for the first year or so. Yes the thought of having kids/milk sooner is great sometimes waiting and learning really pays off. Who know, if it all goes well you could end up buying a doe in milk etc.
> 
> I agree on using the harness! It's also easier to take them in and out with the harness.
> Very glad you are buying from a tested herd!
> ...


They are going to be getting their milk from their mom -- but the breeder had mentioned she could also get them on the bottle so they could have some milk for the drive. 

I don't know what is the best option in that situation --- would you recommend having them weaned to a bottle so they can be fed milk along the way -- will this help with stress/parasitic bloom etc?


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## NH homesteader (Nov 20, 2016)

I can't answer your question but wanted to agree that starting  with wethers is a good idea.  That's what I did. Now I have a buck,  a wether and 4 does.  Wethers are typically quite friendly if you spend time with  them. Plus it sounds like you will be able to potentially get does in the future from them if all goes well.  Perfect!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Southern by choice said:


> Very sad.
> You will find that owning goats can be difficult sometimes especially if you have no real livestock vet around. Even most livestock vets don't know much about goats.
> 
> Cocci prevention is key.
> ...


They are sending us home with a bale of hay to adjust -- and I have found a place in Terrace that supplies a similar hay mixture. I will ask about grain -- but with wethers I was under the impression that they mostly just need hay on top of their browse and you can offer treats such as beet pulp etc. Baking Soda, and free loose minerals and salt on very hot days. Kelp mix was something else I was told they love. I was told finding the right copper requirements in the minerals here can be a little tricky. 

The goats are vaccinated with Tasvax 8 -- I will email about Cocci etc to get confirmation on perventions used if any.}

I'm going to have like a 10 page checklist!!!!!! Hahah


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

I 


NH homesteader said:


> I can't answer your question but wanted to agree that starting  with wethers is a good idea.  That's what I did. Now I have a buck,  a wether and 4 does.  Wethers are typically quite friendly if you spend time with  them. Plus it sounds like you will be able to potentially get does in the future from them if all goes well.  Perfect!


I am a bit of a freak with my animals -- I will be spending lots of time in the yard with them and my father-in-law likes to come putter in our yard and he spends a tonne of time with the chickens etc. When Dave is home he is outside in the shop by the pen most of the day so they'll get a week of him around all the time. Our chickens are some of the most friendly and tame chickens that you could possibly imagine but I was a nut and made sure to handle them several times a day for 15 minutes once they settled into their brooder! I have no doubt we will have two well adjusted boys! 

Can't wait to maybe get into milk in a couple years.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Latestarter said:


> OK... just a point here... Typically buying a weather knocks the price down substantially as the wether is never going to breed and is only good as a companion animal either for humans or other goats, or for your freezer. Typically buying a NON papered animal is substantially cheaper than buying a papered (registered) animal, and the papers are only pertinent if you'll be breeding the animal as heredity is important for breeders. Having said that, I hope you're not paying major "bucks" for a non functional buck (wether)! There's really no need to have a wether registered.
> 
> If you want milk from a/the/any doe, then you're going to need a functional buck to breed her with. OK, so here's where goat math rears its ugly...  I mean beautiful head...  You say you're planning on 2 goats and said one was going to be a wether. The result of this is two years or more before you'll have milk. You'll need your doe to be 8 months to a year old before breeding, then since you have a wether, you'll need to find/buy/borrow a buck, and if you get a buck kid, you'll need to wait for him to mature... Then after the breeding it's 5 months till the doe delivers, then you'll need the does milk for the kids, especially if she has twins or more, so figure another 2 months before you can start milking her for you.  Depending on weather and insects where you are, most prefer to breed in fall for spring kids... not too cold, but not warm enough for insect infestations (yet).
> 
> ...



I don't mind a little pusher and enabler <3 hahah


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## Goat Whisperer (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> They are going to be getting their milk from their mom -- but the breeder had mentioned she could also get them on the bottle so they could have some milk for the drive.
> 
> I don't know what is the best option in that situation --- would you recommend having them weaned to a bottle so they can be fed milk along the way -- will this help with stress/parasitic bloom etc?


If the breeder dam raises I would just leave them do it how they normally would. I wouldn't put them on a bottle just for the trip, they will be fine and will still have have a bloom regardless. They should be weaned before you get them. 

I would still give some feed. People can overreact a bit when comes to feeding bucks/wethers. If you feed a balanced feed with a CA: P ratio of 2:1 they will not get stones from the feed. Look at the hay you are feeding too, people worry about the feed but often forget the hay and "treats". You can get a feed or mineral with AC in it if you are worried about stones. 

We probably have more bucks than anyone on this forum. All of which get feed (my standard breed bucks actually have free-choice feed right now) and not one has ever had a stone. So you are fine to give some feed to them- as long as it is balanced. 

I don't leave baking soda out, I have never really felt the need to. It will also render any AC you may feed useless. 

Loose minerals should be feed free-choice. 

Kelp is great! 

When you go to pick the kids up, have the breeder show you how to trim hooves too


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Goat Whisperer said:


> If the breeder dam raises I would just leave them do it how they normally would. I wouldn't put them on a bottle just for the trip, they will be fine and will still have have a bloom regardless. They should be weaned before you get them.
> 
> I would still give some feed. People can overreact a bit when comes to feeding bucks/wethers. If you feed a balanced feed with a CA: P ratio of 2:1 they will not get stones from the feed. Look at the hay you are feeding too, people worry about the feed but often forget the hay and "treats". You can get a feed or mineral with AC in it if you are worried about stones.
> 
> ...



That was my first question when I e-mailed breeders! "Can you show me how to trim their hooves!" hahaha so I will have a lesson on pick up. 

Do you have a feed you recommend? A lot of my supplies will be getting bought online -- and our local feed store is going to be adding products just for us haha so I can ask for specifics to a point.  For hay I have been looking at orchard grass and I had someone mention that weedy hay can be a good choice as well.

For wethers what kind of a feed schedule would you recommend? Just once a day or ? 

Also -- free mineral recommendations. I've seen jefferspet.com mentioned as a good supply stop -- they have Manna Pro minerals -- but also AC separtely. Would you recommend this product? https://www.jefferspet.com/products...84a49fa2600f000003c1/533884a69fa2600f000003dc


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## Goat Whisperer (Nov 20, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> That was my first question when I e-mailed breeders! "Can you show me how to trim their hooves!" hahaha so I will have a lesson on pick up.
> 
> Do you have a feed you recommend? A lot of my supplies will be getting bought online -- and our local feed store is going to be adding products just for us haha so I can ask for specifics to a point.  For hay I have been looking at orchard grass and I had someone mention that weedy hay can be a good choice as well.
> 
> ...


I really like the manna pro minerals! I have used them for years. 

It wouldn't hurt to have the separate AC "in the medicine cabinet". I'm the type of person who is more likely to stock up on things that I may never use, but to still have it on hand for an emergency. I have some that has never been used, but when a goat is sick you need to act fast. 

I don't know what feeds you have over there, but I feed Bartlett goat pellets 
http://www.bartlettmillingfeed.com/images/bmc goat plt non-med white 0712.pdf

Noble goat pellets are good too, but again I don't know what y'all have. I try to stay away from sweet feed. Ask the breeder if they have recommendations. You could feed a small amount 1 or 2x daily. I would ask the breeder their feeding schedule. I feed my kids 2x a day. The breeder will know their lines best and the best way to feed them.


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## Southern by choice (Nov 20, 2016)

I think your choice of getting wethers is a good one. Especially given the cost of animals in your location as well as not having vet care anywhere near.

Not that these guys aren't going to be just as loved and cared for but let's face reality. Learning curves can be costly and best to learn on animals with lower investment. 

@Latestarter  $200 is not unreasonable. First look at the region second, for those of us that breed quality animals and go through the expense of testing and keeping a clean herd it is reasonable.

Caring for, kidding, bottle feeding, vaccinating, CAE, CL, Johnes testing, Cocci Prevention all adds up. Castration costs as well.  The only reason you see wethers going for less is so people can minimize their expenses especially in a buck year. It also sometimes separates the chaff from the wheat so to speak. People that won't spend money on a goat generally won't take care of the goat. 

Some regions there are so many goats you can get a top of the line goat for 300-400 other areas 600+.


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Southern by choice said:


> I think your choice of getting wethers is a good one. Especially given the cost of animals in your location as well as not having vet care anywhere near.
> 
> Not that these guys aren't going to be just as loved and cared for but let's face reality. Learning curves can be costly and best to learn on animals with lower investment.
> 
> ...


Absolutely! I thought for all things considered that this pricing was more than reasonable. For does and bucks it depends on their lines etc but the pricing is more in the $450 - $600 range. You don't want the animals to be a disposable price and attract the wrong buyers but that is also weeded out by asking questions and making a relationship with buyers. This breeder has lines with some champion milkers but to wether a buck from those lines would be crazy! From what I understand most of the wethers come from goats who are either a. Less proven as milk producing (with Hazel being smaller she falls into this category as she is so petite) or b. First kidding to an unproven doe. 

I think that's how I understand it?? I am so excited!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

This handsome buck. ❤️


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## NH homesteader (Nov 20, 2016)

I think that is a reasonable price.  And I completely respect the breeder,  it sounds like they are making wise decisions regarding selling bucks vs.  Wethers, and they care about their goats enough to take good care of all of them and give you help along the  way.  This is a good start to goat ownership!


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## Latestarter (Nov 20, 2016)

I didn't say $200 was expensive or unreasonable... I had no idea what the price was. It just makes no sense paying the price of a pound of gold for a pound of silver...  I completely understand there are costs associated with raising animals. That still doesn't justify selling a wether for the same value as a breeding buckling or doeling. I just warned to beware those selling wethers for more than they're worth... I think most folks who sell their wethers do so at a monetary loss as they make up the difference on their sales of breeder bucks and doelings. Most reputable breeders won't wether a high quality potential herd sire in any case. The bucks that get wethered are the ones the breeder doesn't want producing offspring. They aren't high/good enough quality. I also recommended not getting a wether registered as it's a waste of money... 

Many folks start out with wethers, and then several years later get rid of them as they are a mouth to feed that produces nothing of value. Many on this site have commented about the folks who do this. Some folks doing this consider the animals as pets and can't bring themselves to butcher them and eat them, so they sell them to someone else who considers them livestock, and will. Or they simply can't afford to keep feeding a mouth that provides nothing back. Others will only sell them to another who will let them live out their lives as pets. And then there are some who will keep their wethers for as long as they live. IMHO, none of these choices is "wrong". To each their own. 

So if it's the "expensive learning curve" we're worried about, why bother spending big(er) bucks to buy wethers from a high quality registered herd... Find someone who has a decent/healthy non registered herd with decent animals and buy a couple of wethers from them to learn on. Far cheaper and after you've "learned" on them for a year or so, gift/sell/eat or keep them, and then go get the high quality animals to start your real breeding herd/program with. IMHO a person doesn't learn it all in a year anyway, and learning about birthing and all involved there isn't even possible until you have breed-able animals... The learning will (should) be a continuous and ongoing thing regardless.

I agree that you've hooked up with a very good breeder to work with.  The mentoring and support they can offer you will most likely prove priceless.  Love their pictures and all that luscious green grass! May your journey begin and proceed with success!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 20, 2016)

Latestarter said:


> I didn't say $200 was expensive or unreasonable... I had no idea what the price was. It just makes no sense paying the price of a pound of gold for a pound of silver...  I completely understand there are costs associated with raising animals. That still doesn't justify selling a wether for the same value as a breeding buckling or doeling. I just warned to beware those selling wethers for more than they're worth... I think most folks who sell their wethers do so at a monetary loss as they make up the difference on their sales of breeder bucks and doelings. Most reputable breeders won't wether a high quality potential herd sire in any case. The bucks that get wethered are the ones the breeder doesn't want producing offspring. They aren't high/good enough quality. I also recommended not getting a wether registered as it's a waste of money...
> 
> Many folks start out with wethers, and then several years later get rid of them as they are a mouth to feed that produces nothing of value. Many on this site have commented about the folks who do this. Some folks doing this consider the animals as pets and can't bring themselves to butcher them and eat them, so they sell them to someone else who considers them livestock, and will. Or they simply can't afford to keep feeding a mouth that provides nothing back. Others will only sell them to another who will let them live out their lives as pets. And then there are some who will keep their wethers for as long as they live. IMHO, none of these choices is "wrong". To each their own.
> 
> ...



Bahaha I knew what you meant and that when you wrote your response you hadn't seen the price yet  I liked your goat math! Definitely hard to not just start with 6.... My practical side is fickle.

All pets will be lifers here unless some extreme unforeseen health issue in the people here came about--- then rehomed to a nutter like me. Lol

Thank you for all your responses, and shares!! I can't wait till they get here... At least I'll have pen Renos coming up to keep me busy!


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## NH homesteader (Nov 21, 2016)

I love my wether. I had two,  one I had to rehome because he was my only horned goat.  He was fine when I just had the two boys but started beating the snot out of my does. So he went to a pet home with one other goat and is fine. The wether I kept is my biggest goat by far but he gets to stay...  It is true that wethers don't always get a fair shake but sounds like this is the best wether home  they could ask for!


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## Goat Whisperer (Nov 21, 2016)

Latestarter said:


> So if it's the "expensive learning curve" we're worried about, why bother spending big(er) bucks to buy wethers from a high quality registered herd... Find someone who has a decent/healthy non registered herd with decent animals and buy a couple of wethers from them to learn on. Far cheaper and after you've "learned" on them for a year or so, gift/sell/eat or keep them, and then go get the high quality animals to start your real breeding herd/program with. IMHO a person doesn't learn it all in a year anyway, and learning about birthing and all involved there isn't even possible until you have breed-able animals... The learning will (should) be a continuous and ongoing thing regardless.


I think Miranda is very wise in how she is planning in getting into goats.
You have to remember, there really aren't many ND breeders up her way anyway. Even if there is another herd with cheaper wethers, buying from this breeder will help build a relationship and will give the breeder a "feel" for her. She will be a lot more likely to get some good breeding stock.

Learning will happen as long as you are in goats, that could be five years or 30 years.

You need to remember that you've been in this site since the end of 2014. You have had the time to read everyone's knowledge posted, visited farms, and read up on the popular goat sites for years now. When you don't or haven't raised goats and things look so much different.

I have seen more people flop when they don't know what they are doing and decide to get all these breeding animals but don't know how to handle particular situations. Starting small, especially when you don't have a good goat vet, is one of the smartest things a person can do.

Having two wethers will be sufficient when learning fecal analysis, parasites/cocci, FAMACHA, hoof trimming, diet, housing, fencing, possible sickness, and just the general learning about goats.



Latestarter said:


> Most reputable breeders won't wether a high quality potential herd sire in any case. The bucks that get wethered are the ones the breeder doesn't want producing offspring.


This isn't necessary true. I know many people who have wethered very nice bucks because they didn't find the proper breeding home. Some would rather wether a great buck than sell him to a herd where he will be used on unregistered/terrible uddered/mediocre (or worse) does.

Sometimes you have to wether a great buck because you already have 10 other great bucklings that need to be sold.


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## Bruce (Nov 21, 2016)

Miranda Kurucz said:


> ...
> All pets will be lifers here unless some extreme unforeseen health issue in the people here came about--- then renamed to a nutter like me. Lol
> ...


You can start your own field clearing business with the non breeders


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 21, 2016)

Bruce said:


> You can start your own field clearing business with the non breeders


Hahah perfect! Or train them into little trick goats and do goat shows!


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## Bruce (Nov 21, 2016)

Will perform for hay ... or weeds ... or brush ... or getting a good brushing!


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## NH homesteader (Nov 21, 2016)

Carrots,  raisins and animal crackers.  Oh and BOSS.  That's what my goats will perform for.  If performing means knock me  over and steal them out of my hand


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## Miranda Kurucz (Nov 21, 2016)

Bruce said:


> Will perform for hay ... or weeds ... or brush ... or getting a good brushing!


Hahahah I actually have been eyeing up some nice curry combs and hard brushes... boys are going to be getting a good brush down every day or two.. Who doesn't love a good brush out?!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 8, 2017)

So it's official!!!! They are here!!! Meet my new boys:




 

 

 





I pick them up end of May / beginning of June. I can't wait. I'm in love already.


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## norseofcourse (Apr 9, 2017)

Congrats!


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## Bruce (Apr 9, 2017)

Cute!!!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 9, 2017)

It's hard to see but the darker brown boy has some moon spotting in a lighter brown... more down the other side than what is shown. Here is his sire, and his sires parentage.


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## Ferguson K (Apr 9, 2017)

cute!


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## Goat Whisperer (Apr 9, 2017)

Awesome, congratulations!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 9, 2017)

Did I mention that I'm in love?!?!? Hahaha Oh my word I just can't even wait!


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## Southern by choice (Apr 9, 2017)

We use harnesses for baby goats.

This Nigerian baby would go on car rides and even to DH's work


 

Another example harness is a bit small on this guy lol


 



this harness was too big


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## Alibo (Apr 9, 2017)

Too cute congrats!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 9, 2017)

Harnesses is what I'm going to do! Thank you @Southern


Southern by choice said:


> We use harnesses for baby goats.
> 
> This Nigerian baby would go on car rides and even to DH's work
> View attachment 30839
> ...



Harnesses are my plan  I also got them some slip leads for once they are good on a leash. Thanks!


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## Southern by choice (Apr 9, 2017)

LOL I am a dork... some times I get focused on one thing and miss another. 
Like...
HOW
CUTE 
YOUR
KIDS
ARE!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 9, 2017)

Southern by choice said:


> LOL I am a dork... some times I get focused on one thing and miss another.
> Like...
> HOW
> CUTE
> ...


Bahahaha!!! No worries!! Yay --- aren't they perfect?!?!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 9, 2017)

Alibo said:


> Too cute congrats!


Thank you!! ❤️❤️


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## Latestarter (Apr 11, 2017)

They are gorgeous! Love, love, love the blue eyes! I so want my herd sire to be polled and blue eyed... My eventual goal!


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## Miranda Kurucz (Apr 11, 2017)

Latestarter said:


> They are gorgeous! Love, love, love the blue eyes! I so want my herd sire to be polled and blue eyed... My eventual goal!


i love the white ring caps at the base of their ears too!! ❤️  heart has been taken lol


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## Grandma Betty (Jan 31, 2019)

I have had chickens for about three years...started with just a couple and now have around 75 layers. What can Isay?  

So...last weekend I got two three month old Dwarf Nigerians, cute little girls. They have not been handled at all and are very skittish.  I want big grab handles on these things!  They are freaking fast!


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## misfitmorgan (Jan 31, 2019)

Grandma Betty said:


> I have had chickens for about three years...started with just a couple and now have around 75 layers. What can Isay?
> 
> So...last weekend I got two three month old Dwarf Nigerians, cute little girls. They have not been handled at all and are very skittish.  I want big grab handles on these things!  They are freaking fast!



They are faster then you ever imagined arn't they! Welcome to BYH. If you can get them in a smaller pen until you get them tamed down that would help a lot for their future life and your sanity


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## Grandma Betty (Jan 31, 2019)

misfitmorgan said:


> They are faster then you ever imagined arn't they! Welcome to BYH. If you can get them in a smaller pen until you get them tamed down that would help a lot for their future life and your sanity


Right now they are in the barn because of this horrid arctic weather we’ve been “enjoying.”  I went out this morning take warm water out and the goats were no where to be found...in a locked barn,  so I just about had a heart attack. Then my husband found them:  I guess they got cold last night because they had built a straw cave under their sleeping bench and tucked it in around themselves.


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## misfitmorgan (Jan 31, 2019)

Grandma Betty said:


> Right now they are in the barn because of this horrid arctic weather we’ve been “enjoying.”  I went out this morning take warm water out and the goats were no where to be found...in a locked barn,  so I just about had a heart attack. Then my husband found them:  I guess they got cold last night because they had built a straw cave under their sleeping bench and tucked it in around themselves.



That is pretty cute and funny. The arctic weather needs to go! Where abouts are you from if you dont mind saying? I used to have about 120 poultry...now we have around 15 but will build back up


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## Grandma Betty (Jan 31, 2019)

misfitmorgan said:


> That is pretty cute and funny. The arctic weather needs to go! Where abouts are you from if you dont mind saying? I used to have about 120 poultry...now we have around 15 but will build back up


We are in western Missouri.


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## goatgurl (Jan 31, 2019)

Hi @Grandma Betty, welcome to the herd and congrats on your new babies.  my suggestion would be to keep them in the barn in a small area until they get tamed down.  take a  bucket, chair or whatever you like to sit on and just sit in their stall with them, talking to them, moving slowly and giving them treats.  goats by nature are greedy little things and I have found that the way to their heart is thru their stomach.  take it a day at a time and they will get used to you.  in this case patience is a virtue.  good luck


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## misfitmorgan (Feb 1, 2019)

Grandma Betty said:


> We are in western Missouri.



isnt missouri warm* right now?

*above freezing



goatgurl said:


> Hi @Grandma Betty, welcome to the herd and congrats on your new babies.  my suggestion would be to keep them in the barn in a small area until they get tamed down.  take a  bucket, chair or whatever you like to sit on and just sit in their stall with them, talking to them, moving slowly and giving them treats.  goats by nature are greedy little things and I have found that the way to their heart is thru their stomach.  take it a day at a time and they will get used to you.  in this case patience is a virtue.  good luck



I agree....i bribe all of our goats/sheep.


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