# Trying to plan next years lambing season



## luvmypets (Jul 1, 2015)

Ok so as pretty much most of the forum knows we had a horrible lambing season, and I rather not go into details... Anyways I have a few questions and things I want to get done before we breed again this year. 

What vaccines and when? 

How to be ready for lambing?

How to plan feeding?

I cant think of anymore questions atm. But Im sure I'll have some later.


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## mysunwolf (Jul 1, 2015)

My best guarantee of a good lambing season was to buy sheep from breeders who specifically selected for easy lambing. The rest was up to luck, unfortunately 

Here is our personal prep for breeding and lambing, keeping in mind that we have only had sheep 1.5 years. Ready for my essay?

We deworm with Cydectin/moxidectin drench 3-4 weeks before breeding is to begin (NOT Valbazen/albendazole  as this can cause temporary sterility) and hope that we will not have to worm again until after lambing. At the same time, we begin flushing, aka ramping up the feed for the ewes to make sure they are ready for ovulation. We increase everyone's cracked corn ration to about 1/3lb per head, on average (the dominant ewes tend to get more). This especially applies to the ewe lambs, and even if we don't flush the ewes we would always flush the ewe lambs (anyone that will be lambing before 14 months of age). You could also give alfalfa pellets, alfalfa hay, another grain or grain mix, or move them to a very rich field to achieve similar results. We give the ram a protein boost of some sort as well.

We continue this "flushing" routine even after we put the ram in, and then when the ram leaves the ewes we begin to go back to normal feeding. 3-4 weeks after the ram has left the ewes, they are back to a more normal feed ration. 

3-4 weeks before the first ewe is due to lamb, we give CDT boosters to the moms so that the lambs will have immunity. We also begin doling out the higher quality hay. This year we may feed a small amount of cracked corn with molasses mixed in during this time to prevent pregnancy toxemia.

Our lambing kit includes iodine, peroxide, latex gloves, lubricant, headlamp, towels, a prolapse harness, and the vet's business card  

And try to remember that the average lamb loss for commercial operations is over 9%. When you have only a handful of sheep, and you have a bad year, that can mean a major loss


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## Roving Jacobs (Jul 1, 2015)

Here's what I do, although it might not work for everyone.

I like late March/early April lambs so end of October I crutch anyone who has an especially fluffy butt, trim hooves, check eyelids or do fecals to see if anyone needs worming, split up my breeding groups and put a marking harness on my rams. If you are in a selenium deficient area this might be a good time to do a bo-se injection too. I increase feed or at least feed quality starting in October and keep it through the breeding season. After I separate out the boys I decrease it to maintenance levels until the last month or so of gestation.

Beginning in March everyone gets sheared, hooves trimmed and gets their CDT booster. If I did Bo-Se I'd probably give them a dose a couple weeks before they were scheduled to lamb too. With them all sheared I can evaluate their body condition score easier and usually start increasing their feed levels. I tend to keep all of mine pretty lean and don't give out much grain but they at least get extra/better hay and a handful of feed here and there, more for those who look too skinny or super huge with multiples.

Lambing provisions for me are iodine, lubricant, headlamp, rags/towels, fleece coats, powdered colostrum, and my most used item a feeding tube with syringe. I seriously bring out the tube for any newborn that even looks slightly funny because I want to be sure they have a full, warm belly of colostrum in the first 24 hours. I'd much rather tube a baby than try to bottle feed it and risk aspiration. I also have antibiotics, oxytocin, lutelyse, and dexamethosone on hand but I don't use them much and wouldn't recommend people using them without speaking to a vet.


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## Goat Whisperer (Jul 1, 2015)

I do not own sheep but I do own goats.

Most everyone I know will give the CDT 30 days before kidding/lambing and then give it to the lamb/kid @ 3-4 weeks and repeat the dose in another 3-4 weeks.

I know they do make a Pneumonia vaccine, but I don't know many who use it. You may want to talk to your vet about that.

@Roving Jacobs made a good point and mentioned the BoSe. You may want to talk to your vet about it and when it should be given. I know some people (with goats) that give it 30 days before breeding, others do it while the doe is pregnant, some give it as soon as the kid is born. It really depends on your region. I know you had to give some to one of your lambs so I think this would be some good info for you.

My kidding kit includes:
Towels! Lots of em!
Paper towels
Trash bags
Floss (for the navel)
Iodine
Scissors
Rubbing alcohol- I use this to clean the scissors before cutting the navel
Flashlight
Thermometer 
Bulb Syringe

Disposable gloves
Shoulder length gloves
Lube

I just ordered a weak kid syringe from jeffers. I haven't had to use it and I hope I never will, but it is a great thing to have on hand.

I also bought a bunch of dog coats for the kids. Walmart has them for $5 each so I just got a handful. They are very useful 

I also keep on hand-
Jumpstart Plus paste, I got it from TSC and I don't think 2 of my kids would be alive without it. It was a rough birth and they were very weak and this stuff helped a lot.

Nutri-Drench

Molasses- I give some in some warm water after the doe kids.

Penn G

LA 200

*NOTE: Do not give molasses or Nutri-Drench to an animal with a fever, it will only make it worse. *


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## Goat Whisperer (Jul 1, 2015)

Forgot to add- We keep frozen colostrum on hand as well as bottles.


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## norseofcourse (Jul 3, 2015)

Personally I think your best investment would be a marking harness, a calendar and a pen!  Knowing exactly when your ewes are bred will help take a lot of the anxiety and 'wonder when' out of lambing season.  And you can spend more time out there around their actual due dates, in case you are needed.  Write down the day you let the ram in.  Write down the day each ewe is marked.  Write down what day you take the ram out (ideally once each ewe has been marked).

I agree with doing health checks, fecals and worming if needed.  Also, body condition score your sheep.  If they are in good weight, IMHO you don't need to flush them.  If they are overweight, you *really* don't need to flush them - you need to get them back to a good weight.  Overweight sheep have more problems conceiving and giving birth.

luvmypets, what are your goals for your sheep?  Do you want to increase your flock to a certain size and then hold it there?  Do you want to breed every year, and sell the lambs or have them processed for yourselves?  Knowing what your goals are will help you plan your breedings.


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## Goat Whisperer (Jul 3, 2015)

norseofcourse said:


> Personally I think your best investment would be a marking harness, a calendar and a pen!  Knowing exactly when your ewes are bred will help take a lot of the anxiety and 'wonder when' out of lambing season.  And you can spend more time out there around their actual due dates, in case you are needed.  Write down the day you let the ram in.  Write down the day each ewe is marked.  Write down what day you take the ram out (ideally once each ewe has been marked).
> 
> I agree with doing health checks, fecals and worming if needed.  Also, body condition score your sheep.  If they are in good weight, IMHO you don't need to flush them.  If they are overweight, you *really* don't need to flush them - you need to get them back to a good weight.  Overweight sheep have more problems conceiving and giving birth.
> 
> luvmypets, what are your goals for your sheep?  Do you want to increase your flock to a certain size and then hold it there?  Do you want to breed every year, and sell the lambs or have them processed for yourselves?  Knowing what your goals are will help you plan your breedings.


All awesome points


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## Roving Jacobs (Jul 4, 2015)

Yeah, that's a good point. Learn how to tell body condition score and base feeding decisions on that! I see way more problems with "overconditioned" animals than with animals that are verging on too skinny. Don't fall into the trap of thinking you need to feed pregnant ewes for two (or three) all through their entire pregnancy.


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