# Organic Fire Ant Control?



## carolinagirl (Mar 30, 2011)

I want to raise my sheep organically but I live in the south where Fire Ants rule.  I have tried in the past to deal with them organically but none of the folklore methods of eradication (feeding them grits, boiling water, etc) will kill the queen, only kill off a few workers and make the queen move a short distance away to start up a new mound.  I have taken courses on fire ants and know that because of the way the queen is fed, anything that kills the workers never makes it to her (which is why Amdro works SO well....it kills very slowly so the queen eats it before the workers start to die).  Has anyone had luck eradicating fire ants from their pastures?  These things are the reason I always planned my kidding (when I had boar goats) for February.  I'd rather deal with kidding on cold days than take a chance on fire ants attacking and killing new born kids.


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## NancyP (Mar 30, 2011)

Hi, we live in the south too and have found Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth works for us. I also use it to worm our pets. https://www.earthworkshealth.com/
Hope this is helpful to you.
Nancy


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## elevan (Mar 30, 2011)

I recently read somewhere that you can pour beer onto their mound and kill a lot of them.  I've never done it  cause I don't have to deal with fire ants, but around here you can get beer relatively inexpensive...it might be worth a try.

The problem with fire ants is that they have more than one queen (did you know that?)  So while they have 1 mound...underground the colony splits into multiple colonies each with their own queen.  Supposedly from 4-8 queens!  So pretty much no method works to eradicate them, part of the reason they are so prevalent.

Good luck to you!


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## phoenixmama (Mar 30, 2011)

Lemon juice, straight full-strength vinegar, DE...some examples of stuff that will work temporarily, but won't necessarily kill the queen.  

There's a company here in Arizona called ARBICO...check them out.  They are awesome.  They sell beneficial nematodes which are very effective at killing ants.  It's expensive...but boy, does it work!  And you aren't killing beneficial bugs in the process (the problem with DE).


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## phoenixmama (Mar 30, 2011)

elevan said:
			
		

> The problem with fire ants is that they have more than one queen (did you know that?)  So while they have 1 mound...underground the colony splits into multiple colonies each with their own queen.  Supposedly from 4-8 queens!  So pretty much no method works to eradicate them, part of the reason they are so prevalent.


Definitely...the beneficial nematodes take care of this.


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## AlaskanShepherdess (Mar 30, 2011)

I haven't had a chance to try it since ants aren't a problem here, but I have heard a lot that aspartame will kill ants. Just sprinkle it where they will find it, they take it back to the nest and eat it and then die.


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## carolinagirl (Apr 4, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'll certainly check those out.  I wonder if running a flock of Guineas in the sheep pasture would do any good?  I know they eat insects, so would they enjoy a nice tasty meal of fire ants?


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## kid'n'kaboodle (Apr 5, 2011)

I don't know if this would work for fire ants, but it works for other ants so I figure it would probably work.  I mix a little borax in with corn syrup and drizzle it in spots on the mound where ants are coming and going.  I usually have to put it on twice a day for 4 or five days or until I don't see anymore activity.  The size of the ant hill will determine how much you will have to use for each application and if you get a rainy period you will likely have to restart the program.  I find under the right weather conditions this is 100% effective.


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## Cara Peachick (Apr 6, 2011)

Um, I doubt it's considered organic, but borate works.


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## vegaburm (May 28, 2011)

I have 6 guineas that free range a couple hours a day, and since we have had them, I have seen MUCH less fire ants. We used to put down that "over and Out" stuff each summer to try to keep them out of the yard so the children would not get bit up. I couldn't put it down once we had chickens and guineas, and I was afraid we would be overrun with ants, but the Guineas EAT THEM! Yay! They will find a nest and attack it and keep at it. They have not been a problem since. In fact I don't think I've seen a mound in the yard since then


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## rockdoveranch (May 28, 2011)

Interesting about the guineas!

Armadillos eat ants, but down here, even with all the armadillos we have, there is no possible way to eradicate the ant problem.

While still living in the city I was told years ago that urine will kill ants.  I tried this with an ant bed in my yard and it worked after several "applications"!  I collected it in a jar and poured it on the ant bed.  

I used to do the same out here, but we just have too many ants and too much wooded land.  Once you have seen a cooperhead in a tree and various breeds of snakes resting in bird nests, you (at least me) think twice about going into the brush for any reason.


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## lee&lyric (Oct 22, 2011)

kid'n'kaboodle said:
			
		

> I don't know if this would work for fire ants, but it works for other ants so I figure it would probably work.  I mix a little borax in with corn syrup and drizzle it in spots on the mound where ants are coming and going.  I usually have to put it on twice a day for 4 or five days or until I don't see anymore activity.  The size of the ant hill will determine how much you will have to use for each application and if you get a rainy period you will likely have to restart the program.  I find under the right weather conditions this is 100% effective.


Good looking out.  I'm going to share this with Lee.  While cleaning up our land we noticed SEVERAL and I do mean SEVERAL on ours .  One of the boys is allergic to ants and we've gotta get the land to where they can play outside so the FA's must go.


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## lee&lyric (Oct 22, 2011)

vegaburm said:
			
		

> I have 6 guineas that free range a couple hours a day, and since we have had them, I have seen MUCH less fire ants. We used to put down that "over and Out" stuff each summer to try to keep them out of the yard so the children would not get bit up. I couldn't put it down once we had chickens and guineas, and I was afraid we would be overrun with ants, but the Guineas EAT THEM! Yay! They will find a nest and attack it and keep at it. They have not been a problem since. In fact I don't think I've seen a mound in the yard since then


Oh snaps, this is even better 'cause Lee wants guineas.  Let him tell it, they protect the chickens and will kick butt anything 'cause they're bad mamma jammas!  Thanks vegaburm.


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## that's*satyrical (Oct 22, 2011)

Boiling water also works.


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## zzGypsy (Oct 22, 2011)

we moved on to a 10 acre property in So. Cal a few years ago that had over 200 fire ant colonies on it... we tried a bunch of stuff but what worked was the amdro.  not organic, but totally effective.

here in SW MO, we don't have fireants (at least I've not seen any) but we've got tons of the little black ants.  once we got our guineas, the number of little black ants in the house went from a lew group every day, to none.  I've never seen the guineas actually eating the ants, but about 3 weeks after we got them, they started to be less prevalent, and within 2 months, none in the house.


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## aileenB (Jun 22, 2012)

Keep the ants away this summer, securely and cheaply. You have stuff at home that can do just fine. There are Cheap and natural ways to get rid of ants. One way to avoid ants is to avoid planting flowers and fruits that attract aphids, white flies, and mealy bugs. These insects excrete a sugary substance that attracts ants to the yard. Other methods include keeping food waste well contained in the trash and avoid standing pools of water that may draw ants to the yard looking for water.


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## Cotopaxi (Sep 27, 2012)

Antopia Ant Bait Stations work wonders for  large plots of land, you just fill them up, lay them down and give it a week  or so for your ant colonies to start diminished. But if your really in a hurry to see those little pest die them I recommend any spray, any will do, just be thorough with each colony.


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## boykin2010 (Sep 27, 2012)

I have always heard putting uncooked grits on the colony worked... I have never tried it, so I cannot say one way or the other. It may be worth a shot though....


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## MatthewBanner (Mar 25, 2013)

Well the Best thing you can go for is call an pest control exterminator,they will help you out from getting rid off these Ants.


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## Devonviolet (Apr 14, 2015)

This past February we bought 10 chickens, to increase our laying flock. At the same time we bought 7 French Guineas, to act as bug control in our vegetable garden. Among other bugs, we have read that Guineas are especially effective against ants of all kinds. 

However, don't discount the effectiveness of chickens as ant control.  When we built our chicken coop, DH put a landscape timber along the foundation until he could build up the dirt around the coop to keep water from running under it when it rained.  When he took up the timber, he found a large ant colony.  He called the chickens over, for a treat ("chook, chook, chook"). They came running, and made short order of those ants!


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## Devonviolet (Apr 14, 2015)

MatthewBanner said:


> Well the Best thing you can go for is call an pest control exterminator,they will help you out from getting rid off these Ants.


Sorry @MatthewBanner. I can't support that option. We bought our farm with the intent of getting away from toxic chemicals, and to live a GMO/Soy free life with our animals. An exterminator is going to spray toxic chemicals that would likely show up in my chicken eggs and meat, as well as my goat milk and meat, not to mention in the soil where I grow my vegetables.  If that doesn't bother you, then hire an exterminator. I personally prefer to find natural ways to eliminate pests and weeds (don't _even _get me started on RoundUp!!!).


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## ldawntaylor (Jun 14, 2015)

So far as fire ants go...I have to deal with them periodicaly.  When they are a problem I just need water, a hoe and quick feet.

I disturb the hill thoroughly then pour water on it.  I have to pay attention though and keep away from the ants.  By pouring water on the nest, the ants are more interested in saving their eggs than in attacking.

I have to keep doing this every day or too for a while.  Eventually the ants move thier nest elsewhere. 

There used to be a powder similar to sevin dust that I use.  It is not labeled as orgainic but the main ingredient is made from chrysanthamums.  I don't know if it is even on the market anymore, but it worked fairly well.


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## Baymule (Jun 14, 2015)

I hate fire ants!!!!!


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## Latestarter (Jun 14, 2015)

* "Pyrethrin *
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Chemical Structure of Pyrethrin, Pyrethrin I R = CH3, Pyrethrin II R = CO2CH3
The *pyrethrins* are a class of organic compounds normally derived from _Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium_ that have potent insecticidal activity by targeting the nervous systems of insects. Pyrethrin is syntethically made by industrial methods, but it also naturally occurs in the Chrysanthemum flowers, and thus is often considered an organic insecticide, or at least when is not combined with piperonyl butoxide or other synthetic adjuvants.[1] Their insecticidal and insect repellent properties have been known and utilized for thousands of years.

Pyrethrins are gradually replacing organophosphates and organochlorides as the pesticide of choice, since these other compounds have been shown to have significant and persistent toxic effects to humans. Because they are biodegradable compounds, pyrethrins are now widely regarded as being preferable to pyrethroids, which is the name of a group of synthetic analogues of pyrethrin that accumulate in the environment. Pyrethrins are considered to be low toxicity pesticides from a human health standpoint."

Very effective against hornets and wasps as well!


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## OneFineAcre (Jun 14, 2015)

I dig the hill up a little to get them
Moving
Splash some gasoline on the hill
Then throw a match from a safe distance
Is that organic?
I mean petroleum products come from the earth right?
Maybe gasoline isn't since it is refined
Works good for fire ants though


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## mikiz (Jun 15, 2015)

I find regular shampoo or dish detergent diluted in water in a spray bottle kills all insects instantly, we used to spray it on the wasp nests so they wouldn't get mad that we knocked their nests down as kids. Worked faster than insect spray! Quick mist spray and they'd all drop dead in seconds.
Not sure how much you'd need for a nest of ants though


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## ldawntaylor (Jun 15, 2015)

Thanks Latestarter for the info.  I finally remembered the other product I was thinking of.  It is/was called Worry Free.  I seem to remember the same company that produces sevin dust produced Worry Free as well.


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## Baymule (Jun 15, 2015)

Pyrethrins react badly on me. I have chemical sensitivities and can't use most products. I like some of the remedies I have found here. Will have to try them.


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## Devonviolet (Jun 15, 2015)

After seeing this thread back in April, I did some research, and found a non-toxic solution for ants that has worked amazingly well for us. I can't say, with 100% certainty that it will work for fire ants, because we used it on several varieties, but not fire ants. However we will find out soon enough, because my husband found a fire ant mound when he mowed our long grass this past weekend. That it might be fire ants didn't register until I saw the new post here this morning. We are expecting massive rainfall amounts this week, from Tropical Storm Bill, which is headed our way. So we will wait until things settle down a bit to apply it.

What I read was that corn syrup mixed with (20 Mule Team) Borax, works well to get rid of ants. We had borax. So, to test it out, I bought a 16 oz bottle of corn syrup. Heated it on the stove, to make it more liquid and easier to mix with 2 Tbsp of borax. When we saw an ant hill in the yard, we poured 1-3 teaspoons of the syrup into the hole. Some of the hills took 2 applications. But after that they were gone.

What I read, in my research, is that ant queens can lay 1500-3000 eggs a day. The worker ants dig new chambers to accommodate more ants, which means more queens.

Colonies have been known to get upwards of 70 feet long, going in multiple directions, and as many as 4-5 queens. If you flood an ant hole or mound, or pour gasoline and set it on fire, it is impossible to get it all. Also, if you don't get the queens, the colony will survive and regrow, which is probably why they return year after year.

It's important to be patient, when dealing with ants. So, the best way to destroy a colony, is to get poison to the queens, by incorporating the poison in food. A "Trojan Horse" approach, if you will. If the worker ants suspect danger (poison), it won't take it to the queen. If the worker dies before it gets to the poison to the queen, she will survive along with the colony. So, just putting borax or Sevin, etc. around the hole, it won't destroy the colony.

Ants have 2 stomachs. One for personal food and one for food that it later regurgitated and feeds the drone ants and the queen. Also, ants are omnivores (eat insects and plant's) do not eat solids, but rather only consume liquids. They take the solids to the ant larvea, who eat them.

I did more research today, and found the following:

www.fireant.net
If you add "/Control/" to that:
www.fireant.net/Control/
It gives other suggestions, one of which is 2 cups sugar, 1 cup water and 2 Tbsp borax, which is similar to borax and corn syrup. But, I'm thinking sugar would be cheaper, so I am going to give it a try.

Many of the control suggestions involve getting rid of (killing) fire ants in the home. Since we are dealing with fire ant mounds, which are more far reaching, I plan to use a method that gets the poison to the queen, rather than killing them at the mound entrance.


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## Devonviolet (Jun 15, 2015)

Baymule said:


> Pyrethrins react badly on me. I have chemical sensitivities and can't use most products. I like some of the remedies I have found here. Will have to try them.


I also react to many chemicals - have MCS (Multiple Chemical Sensitivity). However, I have never used Pyrethrins, so don't know if I would react or not.

I have been reading about using pyrethins for fleas on dogs and cats. Our 2 cats have picked up fleas in the backyard, and I am trying to find ways to get rid of the fleas without chemicals on the cats and in the backyard. 

We dusted them with diatomateous earth, and so far it hasn't worked. Maybe We need to do it more often. The challenge is, that the cats HATE being dusted with it. Keagan actually goes ballistic when we do it. NOT FUN!


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## Baymule (Jun 16, 2015)

@Devonviolet the pyrethrins would tear you up. I have to spray Joe, our white horse periodically with it because the flies bite his legs until they are bloody. I have to shower immediately and still feel its effects for hours. I hate the stuff, but it helps the horse.


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## Devonviolet (Jun 16, 2015)

What about after it dries? Maybe DH could do it.


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## Devonviolet (Jun 17, 2015)

It seems to me that we have used pyrethrin mixed with Neem Oil, on vegetables successfully. However, DH had to do the spraying, and once it had dried I was fine working on and around the plants. 

@Baymule, have you tried Neem oil on Joe's legs? It is an excellent insect repellant that is safe for use on animals.

Here is a link that you might find helpful:
http://www.ozonebiotech.com/neemoil.html?gclid=CLHrw9rilsYCFREoaQodILcA0Q


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## Baymule (Jun 17, 2015)

I'll look into the been oil. Thanks!


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