# How old is too old to breed? Added Pic of Doe



## woodsie (Feb 25, 2013)

There is an ad on our local classifieds that has a purebred Nubian Doe with twin bucklings, just born for sale for $400. The doe is from a very reputable dairy  breeder but she is coming up on 6 years old (born April 2007). Seems like it may work for me as I was looking for a milker, preferrably experienced milking doe, and was considering a Nubian buckling to breed my Alpine crosses next time around. Bucklings are also purebred and could be registered. 

My question is how many productive years do I have left with a 6 year old doe?


----------



## Mamaboid (Feb 25, 2013)

Every goat is different, but as a general rule most people retire their does at around 10 I think.


----------



## 20kidsonhill (Feb 25, 2013)

ask if she has ever had to be pulled or if she had a problem kidding this time and needed assistance.  We breed them until they need to be pulled two years in a row.  Normally betwen 7 and 10 years old is when we start having more pourly positioned kids.


----------



## OneFineAcre (Feb 25, 2013)

20kidsonhill said:
			
		

> ask if she has ever had to be pulled or if she had a problem kidding this time and needed assistance.  We breed them until they need to be pulled two years in a row.  Normally betwen 7 and 10 years old is when we start having more pourly positioned kids.


I have never heard that.  That seems like a very good standard.


----------



## woodsie (Feb 25, 2013)

Thanks for the info...I'll give her a call and find out why she is letting her go. On her website she mentions this was her foundation doe...this is the pic of the doe her site. I have no idea what the bucklings look like...if I like the looks of them it might be worth the 2 hr trip....cringing and what my husband might say if I really like them.


----------



## OneFineAcre (Feb 26, 2013)

woodsie said:
			
		

> Thanks for the info...I'll give her a call and find out why she is letting her go. On her website she mentions this was her foundation doe...this is the pic of the doe her site. I have no idea what the bucklings look like...if I like the looks of them it might be worth the 2 hr trip....cringing and what my husband might say if I really like them.
> 
> http://www.backyardherds.com/forum/uploads/8149_windsheperdfarm_2012_044.jpg


She looks nice. 6 years old is definitely not to old to breed a few more years.  Price seems right, and you said it was a reputable breeder.  May work for you.

 I thought what 20 kids said made a lot of sense.

Could be other reasons she is selling.

May have taken those genetics as far as they think they can.

I would definitely ask the seller some questions.


----------



## SuburbanFarmChic (Feb 26, 2013)

OK that picture is from last August and I would have put more groceries on her then.  I'd see what she looks like after 2 winter babies.  If she's a hard keeper, bear that in mind in your decision.  Also check out her udder. As they age they can blow teats and get sausage/balloony and it's hard for the babies to nurse. 

Also check her teeth. Some goats start losing teeth around 6 or 7.  Some never do.


----------



## OneFineAcre (Feb 26, 2013)

SuburbanFarmChic said:
			
		

> OK that picture is from last August and I would have put more groceries on her then.  I'd see what she looks like after 2 winter babies.  If she's a hard keeper, bare that in mind in your decision.  Also check out her udder. As they age they can blow teats and get sausage/balloony and it's hard for the babies to nurse.
> 
> Also check her teeth. Some goats start losing teeth around 6 or 7.  Some never do.


Ahhh.... didn't even notice the picture was from August.

Definitely should check out udder on 6 y/o


----------



## woodsie (Feb 26, 2013)

Great tips Suburban! I'm glad I haven't called yet...I think I'll ask if I can get a picture of her udder before I commit to making the trip. I'd like to get a current pic too.

The last two does I bought desperately needed to be wormed and were definitely copper deficient...I didn't pay a lot and are gaining weight after I dewormed them but I swore I wouldn't get my heart set on an animal before seeing current pics or visiting in person. Problem is there is usually travelling with 3 kids involved and so hard to turn back empty handed.


----------



## OneFineAcre (Feb 26, 2013)

woodsie said:
			
		

> Great tips Suburban! I'm glad I haven't called yet...I think I'll ask if I can get a picture of her udder before I commit to making the trip. I'd like to get a current pic too.
> 
> The last two does I bought desperately needed to be wormed and were definitely copper deficient...I didn't pay a lot and are gaining weight after I dewormed them but I swore I wouldn't get my heart set on an animal before seeing current pics or visiting in person. Problem is there is usually travelling with 3 kids involved and so hard to turn back empty handed.


I would get a lot of pictures before I drove that far.  I would call them and talk to them. But, have a list of questions to ask.  

There could be legitimate reasons why a farm would sell a 6 y/o that was a foundation doe that would not necessarily be a problem.  Like I said earlier, sometimes you take a set of genes as far as you can.


----------



## rinksgi (Feb 26, 2013)

My Lilly is 8 years old and expecting to kid within the next couple of weeks. We bought her last year,so I don't know how her last kidding went.


----------



## poorboys (Feb 27, 2013)

I think also you need to look at body condition, my neice had a doe bred at 8 years old and she was overweight, after she kidded, she passed, just way to hard on her. I have some 6 year old's that are still having nice easy deliveries, but I have also had some that it was just to hard on, I figure I wont' bred any over 8 years old unless they are in great shape.


----------



## goatboy1973 (Mar 12, 2013)

I had a 13 yr. old Nubian/ Kiko doe who successfully weaned 100 lbs. of twins. I believe She only needed 6 dewormings in her lifetime.


----------

