# Jersey cow headbutting me and my family



## Farm_Girl (Aug 26, 2012)

Annabell, my 3 yr old jersey has gotten into a hobit of headbutting me and my family. She isnt a very big cow, just borders being avaerage size as opposed to a miniture, but still packs a punch. It started when she would nuzzle against our legs and rub her nose on us, which we simply shoved her head away. But now, especially right before milking, she swings her head around and hits whoever is standing near her.
I worry because i have cousins who arent use to being near animals who are spending more time around her and the horses. I have been reading that if you punch their nose you can get a cow to leave you alone. But we dont want her to be afraid or skiddish around humans. We want her to keep the sweet friendly demeanor she has, aside from the headbutting.

She will also hook under our legs with the knob on her head and attempt to lift us or knock us over. Is there anyway to end this behavior without making her afraid of humans?

Also, is her behavior simply a show of dominance? Or something else?


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## Luv_my_brownswiss_girls (Aug 26, 2012)

I have a BrownSwiss the same way she is spoiled!! She not as bad as she was after she calved. I would take a small stick and smack her on the nose or the top of her head polled area. She knows she can get away with this and she going to keep doing it until she knows who her boss is.


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## redtailgal (Aug 26, 2012)

It is a show of dominance, and you need to end it ASAP.

Get a stout stick and wail her when she does it.  If she doesnt stop soon, I'd replace her.

This is a dangerous habit for her to have and unless it's stopped it will escalate and someone WILL get hurt.


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## Blackhereford boy (Aug 26, 2012)

my show heifer does that and i just kick her right in the nose.


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 26, 2012)

Another thing you could do is just grab her ear and twist it and don't let go until she backs away, or move forward with her and get her to move off.   Do this every time she gets too close and disrespects your space, and be consistent. I also wouldn't be gentle about it either, but not too rough, just enough to cause her a bit of pain and make her move away from you.  Because that's what dominant cows do: they push their way into your space your comfort zone and push you around out of their way.  That's why she's head-butting and ramming her poll against your legs: she's trying to get you to submit or be submissive to her.  YOU need to teach her to be boss and simply being all nice and friendly and all is only going to make your situation worse. She'll only be sweet and friendly to you AND respect your space if you teach her who's boss and make her submit to you, not vice versa. 

What you need to do is grab her ear, push HER around just like another cow would (she's only 900 to 1000 lbs lol), and smash her across the nose if she tries to get all b@#$%y on you (or twist her ear), and keep pushing her and making her back away and move away from you.  DO NOT back away from her because you are just confirming to her that you are weaker than her and she has the ability to push you around.  Be calm and assertive, though you may find you will have to get to a point where you may have to get a little aggressive, hence the "whaling across the nose" part.  I believe the follow-through part is where you just stand your ground, until she figures out that you don't want nothing to do with her and moves away. 

And don't encourage the head-butting by rubbing her head.  Rub the neck, cheeks, chin and back, but never the forehead.  There's a trick I read about that could also make her submit to you and that's to try to get her head up to the point where her nose is pointed skyward: to do this you just need a treat she really likes and gets her nose and mouth going.  This is an action that is supposed to get an animal to submit to you because you are essentially making her imitate the situation where she's a young calf again and your her momma cow...and everyone knows that the momma cow is always dominant over her baby calf. (I've never tried this myself, but it would be neat to see if it actually works or not).


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## Symphony (Aug 27, 2012)

I wouldn't twist her ear but a good punch of slap on the nose works well.  It would of been best if you showed her straight off who's the boss.


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## Cricket (Aug 27, 2012)

Interesting, Karin.  If my heifer comes up to me with even a slightly lowered head, she gets whacked when she pushes into my space.  She now will get to the 'line' and come with her chin up.  If she's chin up, she gets a neck rub.   (This can bite me in the butt when she's in heat, though )  I also discovered just this morning that a flip flop whipped off your foot works well to whap a bratty four month old steer on the nose!


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## greybeard (Aug 27, 2012)

> She will also hook under our legs with the knob on her head and attempt to lift us or knock us over


I have a bad feeling about this..
A 3 yr old? You may have your hands full getting her to stop if she's gotten away with it for very long. Match her level of aggression with your dominance--you must. A little pushy is one thing--trying to knock your legs out from under you is completely unacceptable and downright dangerous.


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 27, 2012)

Well, the reason I mention the ear-twisting technique is because I've used it on a few steers in the past that have gotten a bit too close to me or have tried to push me over or push me around too much. I grab on to the ear and hold on until they move off or quit trying to push me around.  I did this with a bull that near got me to the ground after trying to get him to move and get him walking (he had bloat really bad and the vet wanted to see him move around), and automatically or instinctually grabbed his ear when he tried to hook me behind the legs with his head and twisted it and kept at it until he backed off.   That's what I'd do with this cow if she tried to hook me behind the legs like that, and I wouldn't be gentle about it either.  

Another steer that got too close for comfort (upon being surrounded on all sides by around 50 head of docile 800-900 lb critters in the middle of a big pasture  ) got a quick and deft ear twist to let him know I didn't appreciate him stepping into my space and crowding me like that.  He tried again and I repeated the move.  He tried a third time and I made a move for his ear and immediately he backed off without me even touching it.  Eventually all I had to do was just make that little step towards him and arm slightly positioned as ready to "attack" and he'd quickly back off.   

Cattle are smart animals, I'll give them that!  They quickly learn what body language you have means to them, and determines whether they should get the heck out of the away or come to you. The thing is you have to make the right moves to get the right responses. 

For me, I can hit things when I'm miffed (and I've got a pretty good aim, generally, and have hit a steer right on the nose with a stick I threw at him when I was really sick and tired of him following me around when I wanted to be left alone), but I know I'll miss, so if the nose is not available for me to strike at or the animal moves its head at the right moment, there's always the ear option to grab on to and make her (or him) back off.  

But I wouldn't abandon the axe-handle or 2' PVC pipe option either.  

And Farm Girl, if none of those things work, there's always the option of shipping her and getting another better-behaved cow!!


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## Lothiriel (Aug 27, 2012)

Wow, you've gotten a LOT of great advice! Not much I can add... But here are a few things we were told when we had a similar problem with our Jersey.. Most of the people thought she was probably just playing, but it is definitely a show of dominance if you ask me. 



> It takes time, and with our dairy girls, we "gentle" them, taking away (sometimes) much of the respect other cows have. They are allowed to wollow on us for scratches and treats, run up to us as calve to get their milk, etc.. Sometimes they need a dose of reality, and a reminder that everybody needs their "bubble" of personal space, unless invited, or necessary (IE milking, or vetting).





> Always have a sturdy stick with you and make sure you whack her hard enough that there is no question you are serious about not wanting to play. She should get the idea. If you are politely tapping her....that won't do. My cow is gentle and a pure delight but is capable of wanting to run and play and act like that when I walk out in the pasture. I always keep an eye on her and expect that I will have to remind her I don't want to play.





> Oh, gosh, mine do this too, ESPECIALLY in the spring when they're feeling frisky. Also in the summer when it finally cools down in the evening after a hot day. They're playing. I've got mine so that all I have to do is hold my hand straight out (like a traffic cop) and yell "HEY!!!" very loudly and they stop right quick. I had to reinforce that with a crop across the nose at first, but now they respond to voice and hand.


We bought a horse crop and use that if Daisy's really bad. Most of the time she and the steer respond well to the "HEY!!!" but occasionally they'll be a little too naughty for just that and get a whack with the crop. If we don't have the crop with us a good hard slap with your hand or a _booted_ foot will do the trick (if their nose is down there). 

One word of advice: No matter how mad you are... DON'T kick a cow with flip flops. Believe me... The only thing that gets hurt or stunned will be your foot. 

Best of luck to you, and hoping your girl settles down and starts to shape up.


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## Symphony (Aug 28, 2012)

The only reason I say not to "twist" the ear is you may brake or damage the cartilage.  Now holding the outer soft part of the ear and pinching it does work well but I've seen twisting damage on Horses and other animals.


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 28, 2012)

Symphony said:
			
		

> The only reason I say not to "twist" the ear is you may brake or damage the cartilage.  Now holding the outer soft part of the ear and pinching it does work well but I've seen twisting damage on Horses and other animals.


And then of course there's the risk of breaking an animal's nose if you hit the animal's nose or muzzle too hard and with the wrong tool (i.e., steel pipe/wood handle instead of PVC pipe).  There's always risks no matter what you do.  But there's the knowing when and how to do it right and not cause significant damage and make it actually work.  

To each his/her own.


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## Symphony (Aug 29, 2012)

WildRoseBeef said:
			
		

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Who on earth would use PVC or Steel pipe to hit a cow's nose, thats just cruel and barbaric. :/


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## redtailgal (Aug 30, 2012)

I have a PVC pipe and a wooden stick.......the wooden stick is my "whopin-it" stick.

I've used it many times to pop a critter in the nose.  The beauty of a PVC pipe is the wonderful noise it makes........Because of that noise, you dont have to hit hard enough to cause pain, you just want that noise.  

On severe cases, I pull out the whopin it stick, and smack them in the shoulders or right across the nose.  Dont have to hit hard, just enough to get their attention.

The point is to use a tool effectively by NOT causing damage or un-necessary pain.

I will say that I was cornered by an old snot of a cow once......I had my stick and she was coming after me.  She FULLY intended to hurt me, so it was no holes barred.  It ended well, she had a tender nose that taught her a lesson and I didnt get stomped to death.


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## Straw Hat Kikos (Aug 30, 2012)

redtailgal said:
			
		

> I have a PVC pipe and a wooden stick.......the wooden stick is my "whopin-it" stick.
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> I've used it many times to pop a critter in the nose.  The beauty of a PVC pipe is the wonderful noise it makes........Because of that noise, you dont have to hit hard enough to cause pain, you just want that noise.
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Priceless ^^


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 30, 2012)

Symphony said:
			
		

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A steel pipe is a heck of a lot barbaric to use on an animal than an ax handle or a PVC pipe.  A steel pipe has much more potential of breaking some bones or the nose of an animal than a PVC.  I've used a wood stick (just a dead branch on the ground) before and it has a lot more give than something as hard as steel...or even iron.  Same with PVC. 


Ultimately it's how you use the tool, not what you use that makes it effective.  Same thing with ear twisting...it's how you do it that makes it effective, not the what.


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## Cricket (Aug 30, 2012)

"Who on earth would use PVC or Steel pipe to hit a cow's nose, thats just cruel and barbaric."


The person who's about to be killed by a p.o.'ed bull, for one.  I use pvc much the same as a horse person would use a riding crop--it's an extension of your arm.  If my cows are going to mug me for grain, I tap gently on the end of their nose, increasing the pressure if they don't listen.  Knowing that it can hurt, it seldom takes more than a wave of the pipe to halt them.  Jerry Lee is 15 months old, tapes over 900lbs, and doesn't have a whole lot of smart in him.  I'm 145 lbs--he would win in a shoving match.  Here's photos of them with their object of terror!


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## bonbean01 (Aug 30, 2012)

Farmgirl, I grew up on a farm and we raised beef cattle and had two milk cows.  My Mom's rule was first dangerous aggression of a cow to a human was one red X beside her name.  By the third X she/he was shipped to auction and gone from our farm.  She pointed out that a farmer could not be a good farmer is he/she was dead or severely crippled.  Any offspring from a triple X cow was not kept for breeding either.  

Something to think about...if nothing works, I'd get rid of her before anyone gets seriously hurt.


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## Stubbornhillfarm (Aug 30, 2012)

I too have a pvc "bopping stick" that I use.  This tool was incorporated to try and help the low steer get to eat his grain.  He is a very slow eater and the others would suck down their grain and then push him away and eat his.  There was a drastic weight difference between he and the other steer of same age, breed.  As mentioned, you just can't push an 500+ pound critter around with your own body weight.  They have to fear you.  The stick comes with us at feeding time.  We stand near the "low man" steer and when the rest of the herd is done eating, if any of them even make an attempt to move towards him, they get bopped on the nose.  In most cases, now, all we have to do is hit the pvc pipe on the ground to make a noise with it and they back off.


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## SheepGirl (Aug 30, 2012)

Stubbornhillfarm said:
			
		

> I too have a pvc "bopping stick" that I use.  This tool was incorporated to try and help the low steer get to eat his grain.  He is a very slow eater and the others would suck down their grain and then push him away and eat his.  There was a drastic weight difference between he and the other steer of same age, breed.  As mentioned, you just can't push an 500+ pound critter around with your own body weight.  They have to fear you.  The stick comes with us at feeding time.  We stand near the "low man" steer and when the rest of the herd is done eating, if any of them even make an attempt to move towards him, they get bopped on the nose.  In most cases, now, all we have to do is hit the pvc pipe on the ground to make a noise with it and they back off.


I kind of have to do the same thing with my ewes when the lambs are eating...except I flick or smack them on the nose and that usually keeps them away...if not I chase them to get them away. I've also had success with grabbing their 'scruff,' like on a cat or a rabbit. They freak out and run away. Course you couldn't do that on a cow  Usually my larger ewe lamb finishes her feed first so I have to straddle her in between my legs so that way the smaller one can finish her feed.


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## redtailgal (Aug 30, 2012)

SheepGirl said:
			
		

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hehehe, might be interesting to try.  I'd bet I could get my brother to try that.        oh, wait, thats mean of me.   

I milked a Holstein for a while who liked to bring her head around and "gore" me while I was hand milking. (she was an old fashioned cow that didnt believe in new fangled milking machines).
I kept a handful of rubberbands in my pocket, and kept one "loaded" in my hand.  Everytime she turned her head, BAM a nice rubber band whap right on the nose.  After several days of this, she wouldnt even LOOK at me while I was milking, if I moved toward her shoulder, she turned her head away from me.

Just be firm with your Jersey, and I'd have to be pretty harsh with her as well.   I like having a whoppinit stick.  They come to know "the stick" and oftentimes when a cow is acting up all I have to do is pick up the stick.  I've taught them to move away from the stick as well, so it comes in handy when moving cattle (and men too for that matter).  Be firm, consistent, and considerate without making excuses for the animal.


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 30, 2012)

redtailgal said:
			
		

> *Be firm, consistent, and considerate without making excuses for the animal.*


That is the best advice I've seen on this thread.   

Making excuses for the animal is the worse thing you can do.  Your safety comes first, that's the bottom line.


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## Symphony (Aug 30, 2012)

I just use a Horse whip if really needed otherwise the fist works.  But I believe this thread has run its course.


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## redtailgal (Aug 30, 2012)

WildRoseBeef said:
			
		

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exactly!  It's not a fair fight when I am unarmed and the critter weights 8 times more than I do!


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 30, 2012)

redtailgal said:
			
		

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And not all of us are good with our fists or hands either. I seen one episode on Last American Cowboy that one rancher, when trying to tag a calf, slap the nose of the momma cow getting really snarky with him; kept her away, and he couldn't be reaching around for a stick, and was about the only thing he could do with having one hand on the calf and dealing with an angry momma.  

I know this thread may have run its course, but there's something else I want to bring up while this thread is still up and running.  Even though there's the whole concern about safety-first and unarmed vs. armed with a pipe, there's the other concern of it backfiring on a body.  I remember reading a similar discussion about this very thing (started by a different OP of course), and someone bringing up the concern that this may make a cow or bull turn on someone instead of making them back off.  Now I think this may have a lot to do with improper use of the weapon, like being too light with the stick or pipe instead of giving a nice hard smack (same with using the hand or fist), as well as not meaning it, and/or retreating as soon as the smack is made and not standing one's ground, and this, instead of making a bovine back off, become irate because it would be seen as "teasing" or aggravating the animal to the point where it's had enough.  I don't know if that's the case or not, but that's how I see it.  

So a lesson from this thread: When teaching Bossy to be NOT bossy:

a) Use any weapon that will not kill or cause significant injury to the animal.  Best weapon is a PVC pipe, a stout branch or anything similar, whatever you have handy and can use repeatedly without it easily breaking
b) Really mean it when you have to strike out to correct a bad behaviour 
c) Strike *immediately*after the animal's done something you don't like or is perceived as bad behaviour on your part: Do not wait 3 or 5 seconds after to give the punishment otherwise you will cause confusion
d) Hit where it'll hurt, like the nose or muzzle.  If necessary, you may have to hit else where, like on the head or even at the base of the ears, but ultimately the best place is right smack on the nose.
e) Do not back off immediately after giving the smack.  Force yourself to stand your ground or move forward to "follow-through" the whole "exercise," if you will.
f) Always be consistent, which means do NOT let the animal get away with anything that is deemed bad behaviour to you.  Don't ignore the subtleties of dominance or the challenge of dominance such as head-shaking, lowering of the head, coming into your space without permission, a cold glare, side-ways display, not paying attention to you, etc.


There, NOW I think the thread's run its course lol.


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## greybeard (Aug 30, 2012)

> But I believe this thread has run its course


Not quite.



> So a lesson from this thread: When teaching Bossy to be NOT bossy:
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> a) Use any weapon that will not kill or cause significant injury to the animal.  Best weapon is a PVC pipe, a stout branch or anything similar, whatever you have handy and can use repeatedly without it easily breaking
> b) Really mean it when you have to strike out to correct a bad behaviour
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Far too often, when one writes a set of rules in stone, the unfortunate result is that other words get written in stone too--marble or granite stone.
Never say "never". Leave your options open especially if one is not real familiar with the animal about to receive the "WHOOMP!" on the nose. 
Many of those have their own set of pipes on the side of their head and tend to use them when irritated and should that happen "feet don't fail me now" is an appropriate thought process to go thru and act upon.  Doesn't matter how big the stick is or how hard ya swing it--or how fully charged the hot shot is--if that animal is akin to a hornet's nest be ready to exit-- stage left.


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## Royd Wood (Aug 30, 2012)

Straw Hat Kikos said:
			
		

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Having being sat on a set of horns not through choice, oh what i would have done for a piece of pvc or a wooden stick instead of inserting my thumbs in the wild beasts eyes as we head towards a hawthorn hedge.


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## animalfarm (Aug 31, 2012)

The piece of wood didn't do me any good when a steer went rogue on me just over a week ago. I had a 2 x 4 which I broke across his nose and he still kept coming; over and over again. My son dropping large rocks on his head and another trying to distract him with a pole did nothing to save my butt. I was pinned agains a metal fence and he kept ramming. I was hanging on to that fence for dear life and swinging side to side to avoid crushing. He still got my leg severral times and I am still gimping about. I am thankful that the 2 x 4 gave me time to get my foot out of the muck and time to attempt to get over the fence, but it still wasn't enough.

Do sort this cow our immediately before she figures out that you cannot really stop her if she shows enough determination. She needs to respect your piece of wood before you really have cause to use it. She has shown that you don't have much time left.  Red Tail  and Wild Rose are sooo right.


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## Symphony (Aug 31, 2012)

Say you people should write a book on this.


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## WildRoseBeef (Aug 31, 2012)

greybeard said:
			
		

> > But I believe this thread has run its course
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Actually I never intended them to be "rules" to be set in stone, granite or marble.  Those are mere guidelines to follow when having to deal with certain situations that require a stick across the nose.  

And I too worry about the possibility, that animalfarm and you greybeard brought up, of an animal that is so enraged or so "blind" with fury that no amount of punishment will stop it.  Except a bullet to the head if you were fast and accurate enough to get a handgun out and shoot the animal and IF you even had a pistol/revolver on you in the first place!

Regardless, it is a gamble that we're all playing at when trying to correct the misbehaviour of a critter as big as a bovine; even with an animal you would know the history of could still turn on you and keep on coming even after you tried the bopping or smacking or whopping on the nose trick. Often times you have to give the benefit of the doubt instead of being too suspicious and making things more difficult for you (and the animal).  



			
				Symphony said:
			
		

> Say you people should write a book on this.


   Well it's a topic that's a big concern to anyone who raises animals bigger, heavier and stronger than themselves!  A book maybe a bit much, but I could see a BYH page being written up on this.


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## kstaven (Aug 31, 2012)

bonbean01 said:
			
		

> Farmgirl, I grew up on a farm and we raised beef cattle and had two milk cows.  My Mom's rule was first dangerous aggression of a cow to a human was one red X beside her name.  By the third X she/he was shipped to auction and gone from our farm.  She pointed out that a farmer could not be a good farmer is he/she was dead or severely crippled.  Any offspring from a triple X cow was not kept for breeding either.
> 
> Something to think about...if nothing works, I'd get rid of her before anyone gets seriously hurt.


I agree! The last thing one wants to do is breed more aggression into their lines. Cows, goats or any other animal on the farm that basic rule should apply.


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