# Fodder System setup - thoughts?



## Harbisgirl (Mar 6, 2013)

Im interested in purchasing a fodder kit. Its my understanding that 1 tray will produce  10-15 lbs of fodder per day. Im trying to decide whether to get a 6 tray or a 12 tray since my feed needs are right on the edge (12 lbs per day). I could probably get away with a 6 tray for now but would need to upgrade next year. I have a lot of questions and ideas floating around my head so maybe those of you with more experience could provide your input. This basically comes down to two things: price and function.

Im looking at purchasing a kit from Sherry at the Half Pint Homestead (BYH member Melwynnd  www.half-pinthomestead.com)  

6 tray system - $270
12 tray system - $360

Then I saw the expandable kits and thought that might be perfect for me - but you pay for the convenience of buying an expandable kit which I dont think I can do right now.

6 tray expandable system- $300
6 tray to 12 tray upgrade kit - $112
Total cost of 12 tray after expansion - $412

Im not sure if I want to buy a full kit, or buy the individual components and build a stand myself. I have shelving racks already so I dont really need the PVC pipe stand and Im not sure if I like the layout. I noticed that on the 12 tray system, the stand has 4 shelves  with 3 trays per shelf. Is that for a reason  besides that it fits the Rubbermaid tote/holding tank below? I ask because my system is going up against a long wall and I think Id prefer to have 3 shelves with 4 trays each or maybe even 2 shelves with 6 trays each (depending on how long of a holding tank/Rubbermaid tote I could find). Plus Im short so I dont want it any taller than it has to be  Does the PVC pipe stand and the 4 shelf/3 tray layout serve a purpose? How do you all have yours set up?

I welcome any comments or suggestions.


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## ragdollcatlady (Mar 6, 2013)

I can't help, but am interested in this as well....

I would love to be able to feed fodder during the parched summers and dead winters....


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## nmred (Mar 6, 2013)

My advice is go with the twelve tray from the start.  You don't have to fill up all the trays if you don't need them, but you can if you need to--and once they get used to it, you probably will!  My goats love it!

As to the layout, it really doesn't matter how many shelves or how many trays on each.  Just use what you have and what you have space for.  We built our own 12-tray system based on Half-pint Homesteads plan.  We have four shelves which hold three trays each.  The size was determined by our trays and the tub underneath, as well as the space where we were putting it.  Our shelves are closer together than theirs, so it is only a little over waist high.   We decided to build our own because we already had most of the material so it was much cheaper.  Still need to get the timer set up for automatic watering.  Can't wait!  It does get tedious sometimes, always having to remember to water every few hours.  Plus, when we have to be away for the day, it gets really dry and that slows the growth rate way down.

Good luck!  There are a lot of variables that have to be worked out with each individual system.  That's one of the benefits of buying the pre-made systems--all the kinks are worked out!  But it is a lot of fun, and does help lower the feed bill.  Plus, milk production goes up!


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## treeclimber233 (Mar 6, 2013)

How do your trays drain?  Do they have holes drilled in the bottoms of  the trays? Or hoses?  I have some trays (no rack yet) that I just pour water into every day then drain it out by hand (or hose)  It would be easier to just water the top and have it drain all the way thru but even with the hose the loose seed tends to clog the hole.  I can just see the seed clogging up the holes and water going everywhere.  My goats love the fodder.


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## nmred (Mar 7, 2013)

I have holes all over the bottom of my trays , so they work like a collander.  I put them in by using a soldering iron to melt them.  Really easy and fast.  We tried drilling the holes, but it was slow and cracked the plastic.  Actually broke big holes in a few that then had to be repaired (hot glued plastic canvas over them).  They just drain through to the tray underneath, so really, I only have to water the top shelf.  The holes are small enough that the seed (wheat) won't fall through.  I've never had any problem with them getting plugged.  Originally, we only had holes in one end and slanted the trays to drain, but it didn't seem to work as well.  Your way seems like it would take a long time and get tedious.  I have, lately, been leaving the seeds in the soaking bucket for two days, until they have a good root started but are not matting yet.  They get rinsed and drained a couple times a day while in there.  This seems to have helped quite a bit.  I get a better sprouting rate, and they matt up faster, which makes them easier to water.  Keep experimenting!  You'll find a way that works for you.


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## treeclimber233 (Mar 8, 2013)

What size are your trays and how much seed do you put in them?  What kind of seed are you using?


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## Martin's Grove (Mar 11, 2013)

Sounds interesting & fairly easy.


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## nmred (Mar 17, 2013)

> What size are your trays and how much seed do you put in them?  What kind of seed are you using?


My trays are plastic, rectangular containers I got at the dollar store.  They are about 10x13--like a cake pan.  I put holes in the bottoms with a hot soldering iron.  I start with 1 1/4 cups of grain for each tray.  I am using wheat right now, but just got some barley that I will be trying soon.  I do two trays each day, so here are my steps...

1.  Put 2 1/2 cups wheat in an ice cream bucket.  Put under running water in kitchen sink.  As the bucket fills up, I swirl the grain around to let all the chaff rise to the top.  Carefully drain most of the water and chaff off.  Repeat.  Fill bucket about 1/2 full with water.  Cover.  Let sit for a few hours.  Drain thoroughly.  (I used my handy-dandy soldering iron and melted holes in one half of the lid.  To drain, I snap the lid on, and set it in the sink with the hole-y side down.  Really easy!)

2.  Rinse and drain the seeds 2 times a day until good roots have formed, but seeds are not matting.  Mine take 3 days.  This means I have 3 ice cream buckets with holes in the lids.  I stack them on top of each other on my kitchen counter.

3.  Dump seeds into two trays.  Try to make them even, but exactness is not super critical.

4.  Put trays on watering/growing shelves and water regularly for an additional 6-7 days.

5.  Feed to goats!!!


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## Martin's Grove (Mar 17, 2013)

Thanks for the details.


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## treeclimber233 (Mar 18, 2013)

Where do you buy your seed?  All I can find is regular grass seed.  I was getting annual rye for $24/50 lbs.  They are now sold out and the yard grass seed is $59/50 lbs.  There has to be a cheaper seed to buy.


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## doubleatraining (Mar 19, 2013)

I've been doing fodder for a few weeks now but only on a very small scale twice a week for my ducks and chickens. My goats won't touch it!


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## Hobby Farm (Mar 19, 2013)

doubleatraining said:
			
		

> I've been doing fodder for a few weeks now but only on a very small scale twice a week for my ducks and chickens. My goats won't touch it!


My goats were a little reluctant at first, but now they fight over it.  Just keep offering and if they don't eat it that day, give to the chickens the next day.  My chickens devour it.  It's funny to see 30 hens fighting over it, fodder flying everywhere, LOL.


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## WhiteMountainsRanch (Mar 19, 2013)

treeclimber233 said:
			
		

> Where do you buy your seed?  All I can find is regular grass seed.  I was getting annual rye for $24/50 lbs.  They are now sold out and the yard grass seed is $59/50 lbs.  There has to be a cheaper seed to buy.


*
Just go to your local feed store and ask for "recleaned" wheat or barley. It will sprout.*


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