# Goat Diet



## Ember Kinsch (Dec 4, 2018)

Hello, I have a complete newbie question, I pretty much no nothing about what to feed my future goats. I do know that they will eat hay and grass, but other than that, I'm clueless! Can someone help me out on what diet I should be planning to feed them? Thanks in advance!


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## Southern by choice (Dec 4, 2018)

What kind of goats? How old? Does? Bucks? Wethers?


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## Ember Kinsch (Dec 4, 2018)

Probably going to get Newbians. Most likely around 4-5 weeks when we get them. 1 doe 1 buck. I don't know what wethers are yet...


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## Southern by choice (Dec 4, 2018)

At that age they will still be on the bottle and will remain so up to 12-16 weeks. Are they currently on the bottle at the breeders?
Wethers are castrated males.
You can introduce small amounts of dairy goat feed. Hay will need to be available 24/7. Loose Minerals should also be available 24/7.
Because they are kids you may want to consider a medicated feed to aid in coccidia prevention.


If buying a buck and a doeling together and they are brother/sister you will want to wether the buckling at 8 weeks.  

The breeder you are purchasing them from should give you recommendation of feed and mineral. 
You will also want to see if the breeder vaccinated the dam before kidding so you know what vaccination schedule you should use.

Within 7-10 of getting your kids you should have a fecal analysis done by your vet to check for internal parasites and coccidia.


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## Ember Kinsch (Dec 4, 2018)

We don't even have a breeder picked out yet. We are going to get them in a little bit less than a year, so I'm just trying to figure out how to provide the best life for them. We are not planning on getting a brother and sister, mainly because we do want them to mate. What type of loose minerals? Is there any specific milk that they will need? Do I need to put some formula in the milk? How often would they have to be bottle fed? (sorry haven't done that much research on them yet.)


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## Southern by choice (Dec 4, 2018)

I don't recommend buying bottle babies for newbies.
Unless it is where they go home but are technically at weaning age and it is a week of bottles with milk sent home for transition or so.
Not having experience and raising BB is challenging to say the least.

I do not suggest raising doe/buck together. There are long term problems with this.
Buy 2 does.
Meanwhile (while they are growing up) work on a pen that you can buy a buck and house separately. This will save you trouble and issues down the road.
Because eventually you will have to separate them. The bucks will ride bred does which can be problematic especially late pregnancy.
Having an intact 250 Nubian buck around your does/kids full time will not be very desirable.
Then the kids will grow and when the daughters cycle then what? You will not want a buck in rut around your does.

This also allows you to see how the does develop and you can best choose a buck that will improve the areas on your does that need improvement.


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## Ember Kinsch (Dec 4, 2018)

What age should I get them at then? I do want to be able to breed, but I also want to start off having them at a young age. Will they need grain in winter? What can I give them for treats but will also be nutritious for them?


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## Southern by choice (Dec 4, 2018)

I would look for weaned bottle raised kids from a respectable breeder.
A respectable breeder doesn't have to have a well known farm name or show or do anything fancy.
What you are looking for is a breeder that is knowledgeable about the breed. One who tests.  Testing for CAE is a must! CL and Johnes is very important sadly too many make excuses  to not test for these. Also and this is key- the Nubians can have a genetic defect called G6S    ( http://kinne.net/g6s.htm )   you need to see verification of tested goats! There are Negative, Carrier, and Affected goats. This plays a big part in breeding.
A breeder that will mentor you and help you in your transition, give info as far as prevention, care, feeding, and will generally be there to give support.

Treats are 100% unnecessary for livestock animals.  Far too many give way too many treats and that is not good for goats. If you must stick to raisins, chopped carrots or something that would naturally be within their diet. Sunflower seeds they may love however too much can throw off their phosphorus as it is high in phosphorus. Too many people feed junk crap like animal crackers and cereal. I however am guilty of a few times giving a Dorito  and a few goldfish crackers. Only because I happened to be eating them and the goats took them. LOL  

Yes they will need feed throughout the year, as well as hay. Grass is not a staple for goats as they are not grazers like sheep, goats browse. Goats like trees vines brushy stuff but will require hay and feed year round.

What do you plan on doing with the goats?


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## Ember Kinsch (Dec 4, 2018)

I plan on milking them. 

Thanks for the advice about the diseases and asking for verification. I will make sure to do that. I do plan on only giving them healthy treats such as the carrots and raisins.


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## Fullhousefarm (Dec 5, 2018)

I agree 100% with SBC about both- don't get a buck & doe unless you are going to wether the buck and purchase from a breeder that can and will mentor you. Of coarse I also agree bottle babies can be a steep learning curve for a new goat owner. Add that to the fact that you will spend a lot of $$ buying goat milk and/or risk issues using replacer or whole milk. 

I talk buyer after buyer out of buying a boy/girl set of goats every year. It sounds cute but once you know they will have to be separated at 8-12 weeks to prevent the doe from getting pregnant it gets more complicated. Then they will be lonely. Youre likely to have at least one of them escape. Then they can stay together for a few months at most, then they have to be separated again so the babies and dam don't get bred right away. And you have a stinky boy to deal with and can't breed him to his daughters. If you can't afford two does a doe and wether is certainly a reasonable choice. The wether can always be a buddy for your buck if your herd grows and you get one in the future. If I sell a doe or does to a family that doesn't have other goats- or other goats are from a herd I know and trust- I will let them use my buck to breed their does when the time comes assuming a negative CAE test and the goat is well taken care of. We used another breeders buck for one year with our Nigerians and three years with our Lamanchas. It was a pain shuttling does/bucks around a bit, but not as mush work as having a buck 365 days a year to use him for just a few does. 

Something else you could consider is getting a doe with a doeling at her side to start. That way you get milk sooner and get to raise a baby. Many times a dam won't sell for that much more than a baby (think cute factor here- babies sell) and you are getting 2+ years invested in them. We have learned buying yearlings can be a financially wise choice too. Many times you get the older babies that the breeder planned on keeping (the good ones!) and then realized they have too many goats and decide to sell at an off time for less.


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## Ember Kinsch (Dec 6, 2018)

Thanks for the advice Fullhousefarm and SBC. I will make sure to try and get two does or one doe and one doeling.


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## Devonviolet (Dec 13, 2018)

Firstly,         Welcome to Backyard Herds.   

Southern has given you some awesome advice.  Keep track of these posts when you get closer to buying your goats.  As she said, you don’t need a buck right now.  If you are buying just weaned doelings, it will be at least 9 month to a year, before you breed them. Waiting to breed until they are yearlings, is best. 

As far as treats go, we don’t give any of the “people food” treats, that somee give.  Our goats are absolutely thrilled when I walk over to the apple tree and pull some apple leaves off the tree.  They LOVE apple leaves for treats.  I tried peach and apricot leaves and they weren’t interested.  It HAS to be apple leaves.


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## Ember Kinsch (Jan 7, 2019)

Apple tree leaves? Well, we don't have any apple trees, but plenty of hedge apple trees...

How much does a 1+ year old nubian doe cost?


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## OneFineAcre (Jan 7, 2019)

Southern by choice said:


> CL and Johnes is very important sadly too many make excuses  to not test for these.



Following your vet's advice is not making excuses.
My vet doesn't test his goats for CL, so  I don't test mine either.

You have a bad habit of saying people are wrong that do not do everything you do.


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## Southern by choice (Jan 7, 2019)

That will vary by region and by pedigree/quality.
Also if the doe is a yearling milker or a dry yearling.

Some breeders may sell a yearling milker if they don't feel the udder is what they are looking for. Those who show goats have to be very selective and will keep only the top does in their program. Sometimes it is the dairy strength that may be lacking, or the topline or width etc. The goat may still be a really nice goat but is better placed as a family milker.

I'd say Registered start around $300 and go up.






OneFineAcre said:


> Following your vet's advice is not making excuses.
> My vet doesn't test his goats for CL, so  I don't test mine either.
> 
> You have a bad habit of saying people are wrong that do not do everything you do.



Any many vets do test and many people test. Not all vets agree with each other and not all people agree with each other.
You use to test and now you don't- your choice. 
It isn't about what I do it is about at letting people know these diseases are out there, research for themselves so they can decide.
In the end the person that owns the goats is affected. Look how many people on this forum have lost whole herds to Johnes, had CL, and CAE.
As far as G6S- many don't know about it and if a person is brand new or looking at goats at least they can educate themselves about it.


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## OneFineAcre (Jan 7, 2019)

I


Southern by choice said:


> That will vary by region and by pedigree/quality.
> Also if the doe is a yearling milker or a dry yearling.
> 
> Some breeders may sell a yearling milker if they don't feel the udder is what they are looking for. Those who show goats have to be very selective and will keep only the top does in their program. Sometimes it is the dairy strength that may be lacking, or the topline or width etc. The goat may still be a really nice goat but is better placed as a family milker.
> ...



I've never tested for CL.  And I do test for CAE and Johnnes.
You said that people who don't test for CL and Johnnes are "making excuses".
Saying someone doesn't do the same testing that you do is "making excuses" is saying that they are wrong and you are right.


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## OneFineAcre (Jan 7, 2019)

Southern by choice said:


> Any many vets do test and many people test. Not all vets agree with each other and not all people agree with each other.
> You use to test and now you don't- your choice.



That's a lot different than your initial statement that people who don't test for CL and Johnnes are "making excuses"


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## Southern by choice (Jan 7, 2019)

OneFineAcre said:


> That's a lot different than your initial statement that people who don't test for CL and Johnnes are "making excuses"



Many do make excuses. Hear it all the time. Like oh it is too expensive to test for CAE, hmmm $1.65  is never too expensive.
CAE and CL are both manageable issues but Johnes... nope. No test is perfect. 

This is my advice, clearly yours is different. So what. I recommend what I do (testing) because I see the devastation from these things.  Helping rebuild after devastation because  they either never heard about testing or was told the testing was not reliable has allowed me to see the emotional and financial aspect. Sitting on the other end of the phone and hearing the grief and sadness. IMO all we can do is what we can do and make the best decisions we can.


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## Southern by choice (Jan 7, 2019)




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## Ember Kinsch (Jan 7, 2019)

Southern by choice said:


> That will vary by region and by pedigree/quality.
> Also if the doe is a yearling milker or a dry yearling.
> 
> Some breeders may sell a yearling milker if they don't feel the udder is what they are looking for. Those who show goats have to be very selective and will keep only the top does in their program. Sometimes it is the dairy strength that may be lacking, or the topline or width etc. The goat may still be a really nice goat but is better placed as a family milker.
> ...



Thank you that is very helpful.


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## Southern by choice (Jan 7, 2019)

If you are in Kansas you may want to look up and see what Dairy goat clubs are in your area. I am sure you will find some beautiful Nubians to pick from. Also kidding season is getting underway for many and it will be a good time to look.


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## Ember Kinsch (Jan 7, 2019)

Okay, that is perfect! I am in Kansas, so where would I have to look for dairy goat clubs? One of my friends has been extremely kind and told me that I could take one of her doelings that is expected to be born in spring. I plan to pick it up this summer.


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## Southern by choice (Jan 7, 2019)

do a google/bing search - probably your best bet


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## Goat Whisperer (Jan 7, 2019)

@Ember Kinsch you can also look on FB. See if there are any dairy goat groups for your state. You would also look at joining the ADGA district 5 FB page since your state is included.


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## OneFineAcre (Jan 7, 2019)

[QUOTE="Southern by choice, post: 587603, member: 6771
This is my advice, clearly yours is different. So what. I recommend what I do (testing) because I see the devastation from these things.  [/QUOTE]

I wasn't giving advice.   You were. I have kind of moved away from doing that on this forum.  I really don't have the time.  I'll leave that to you.  You must have the time for it and  it's something you seem to enjoy doing.

And I would have not made any comment at all about your advice to only buy from tested herds.  CAE, Johnnes, and CL.  Nothing wrong with your advice.

I only made a comment because you said that people who don't test for CL don't because they "make excuses".

Clearly, that term "make excuses" has very negative tone to it. 

You know that I don't test for CL, never have and as long as I don't have a case of CL in my herd I never will.  I'm not even going to get into why.  I don't have to explain myself. 

But, when you said that you were in effect directing the comment at me.  May not have been your intention.  Not sure about that sometimes.  But even if you weren't directing it at me, it was definitely in my direction.


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## OneFineAcre (Jan 7, 2019)

Southern by choice said:


> View attachment 56796



But you keep on beating the poor thing.


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## Southern by choice (Jan 7, 2019)

OneFineAcre said:


> [QUOTE="Southern by choice, post: 587603, member: 6771
> This is my advice, clearly yours is different. So what. I recommend what I do (testing) because I see the devastation from these things.





But, when you said that you were in effect directing the comment at me.  May not have been your intention.  Not sure about that sometimes.  But even if you weren't directing it at me, it was definitely in my direction.[/QUOTE]

Absolutely not. Not my intention. Here on this forum there have been many that have purchased goats that were positive and they were devastated.  You and I both know that CAE and even CL to an extent is manageable to a degree. Johnes is not. Johnes and CL are zoonotic, I think that is important data. Many spending a fortune in vet bills trying to figure out why  this or why that and after spending all that money they test and find out the goat has CAE.  Goats having chronic issue,  never gaining weight etc only in the end to find out the herd had Johnes.

It isn't any different then some one asking about milk goats and you suggesting buying from herds that have proven goats with milkstars, or those that say look at LA scores... it is data. Data is useful.
Can you buy healthy disease free goats from herds that don't test? Yes
Can you buy great milkers from herds not on milk test? Yes
Is every buck that is advertised as awesome, awesome? No
Can negative animals later be positive? Yes But that sure can help a person make decisions for their herd before the entire herd is infected.

Data is helpful.   We have bought goats a few times that the farm didn't test for all these things. We have quarantined some goats for over a year - testing several times.  

Not everyone out there breeding goats is thorough or honest- you may be, I may be, and the people we know may be. Not everyone is and many don't know about these diseases and are breeding /selling goats, but these goats are coming from somewhere.


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## Ember Kinsch (Jan 14, 2019)

Goat Whisperer said:


> @Ember Kinsch you can also look on FB. See if there are any dairy goat groups for your state. You would also look at joining the ADGA district 5 FB page since your state is included.



I would join, but Mom will not allow me on FB yet. She says I have to wait until I am 16, but that will happen soon so I will keep that in mind when I have the chance to.


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## Goat Whisperer (Jan 14, 2019)

Completely understandable


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