# "free range" accommodation possible?



## tiny_tam (Feb 12, 2012)

I was given some meat rabbits and concrete hutches by friends so decided to start up a small scale meat production. Problem is I would like the rabbits to have some kind of freedom and quality of life - all my other animals are free-range. I have considered runs but the ones I've seen on the internet are just put on the grass with nothing to stop the rabbit digging its way out - I don't believe this would work as digging is a natural rabbit behaviour! I don't have time to supervise them in their run. Also the ground would get quickly fouled and would be hard to clean. 

Another thing that puzzles me is - I have to separate the does and bucks when they are old enough to reproduce. Then I have to separate the bucks when they start fighting. But pet and welfare sites tell me that rabbits are social animals and need companions. How is this possible if they fight?

I would like them to have a permanent area to run around in which is attached to their hutches. Unfortunately I don't have a barn big enough or I'd put them there. Any ideas?

I'd be grateful for any advice before I decide to give up and eat them all!


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## mama24 (Feb 12, 2012)

I have mine in cages for now, but I'm planning on building them a pen with a wire floor directly on the ground and planting clover in it later this spring. I'm going to put the girls in for an hour, take them out, put the boy in for an hour, take him out, the first few weeks, then lengthen their time outside until maybe half a day each or maybe I'll even build 2 pens and have them out all day. My son's school has pet rabbits and they take them outside for hours every day when the weather is nice. The man I bought my young does from had a small hutch outside that the buck lived in full time and the babies were in when I went to get them. His chicken coop opened into the same enclosure, but the chickens easily hopped over the fence--it was only 2 ft high. He said the bucks and babies were fine, but the does try to dig, so his doe was the shed, but I understood that she came out sometimes, too, but not unsupervised. hth!

btw, the problem is catching them to get them back in. Even tame rabbits instinctively try to get away when you reach for them. I think I may put a pet carrier in and just wait till they're in it to close it and carry them back into their cages. They do like to hide, so I think it will work. My kids' school uses cardboard boxes for the same purpose.


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## mama24 (Feb 12, 2012)

oh, another thing, I understand a single buck is enough for up to 10 or more does (might want to check into that number.) If you only have a few does, eat the extra bucks now (or as soon as they're big enough if they're still too small.) That's what I did. I got 2 CA bucks in Dec, and I butchered one on Mon, still haven't eaten him yet. I got 2 NZ does, and I'm keeping both of those, thinking about getting some more. 

Rabbits seem to like to have other rabbits around, but to get along, they need their space.


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## brentr (Feb 12, 2012)

Rabbits get their socialization needs met by being able to see other rabbits in other cages.  Some rabbits do okay living together, but most need their own separate space when they are adults.

You mentioned "concrete" hutches" and I'm curious what they look like.  Can you post a pic?

I second the comments by mama24.  You only need one buck for several does, so you can thin your numbers a little by eating the buck(s) you don't keep for breeding.  I have 4 does and 2 bucks.  If I didn't use mine for crossing (NZ buck to Cali does, and vice versa) I know I could get by easily with one buck for four does.


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## Bunnylady (Feb 12, 2012)

The idea that rabbits are social creatures is based on the fact that the European wild rabbit (from which all domestic rabbits are descended) is often found living in warrens. A warren is a place where there are multiple tunnels and several rabbits all living together (I believe this is the only rabbit species that does this - all others are strictly solitary). Studies have shown that, though the rabbits are living together, there is little or none of the "communal" behavior that is typically seen in herd animals - in fact, the rabbits are openly hostile to one another. The conclusion has been that the rabbits have been forced together by features of their habitat; this seems to be borne out by the fact that they are more widely dispersed in areas that have more cover, food, etc. 

When we domesticate animals, we select for traits that we find desirable. Since we are keeping rabbits more and more as pets, one of the traits that we seem to be choosing is sociability. Baby bunnies are very sociable with each other - they need to be, since shared warmth is critical to their survival. As bunnies grow, they eventually outgrow this need to be together. Most rabbits get to a point where they need their own space, just like the wild rabbits do. Pet owners aren't keen on pets that are standoffish, and rabbit breeders don't enjoy dealing with rabbits (does, particularly) that are so territorial that even the owner gets attacked. Rabbits that are pleasant to deal with are more likely to be allowed to pass on their gentler natures to another generation. 

MY conclusion is that the domestic rabbit's personality is in transition. Many rabbits are still territorial, though the tendency to fight each other (and us!) is gradually getting bred out of them. Some rabbits are very outgoing and friendly, even with other species. The key is to know the nature of your particular rabbits. If there is enough space that each rabbit can have as much room as it thinks it needs, you can keep several rabbits together. Sometimes you will have one that is just a supreme alpha, and it just has to be kept alone. Sometimes you may have a group that is particularly harmonious, and you'll be like, "what's everybody's problem? My rabbits are great together!


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## ThreeBoysChicks (Feb 12, 2012)

Take a look at this link.  I have purchased chickens and sheep from our friends at Whitmore Farms.  They house ther breeding stock outside.  They have a picture at the bottom of the page that shows one of their outside houses.


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## tiny_tam (Feb 12, 2012)

Thank you so much everybody. This really has cleared up some puzzles that have been going around my head. I think my meat breeds will be happier with individual runs but being able to see each other as they are territorial. Like the idea of planting clover through a wire floor but I'm worried it might get fouled quickly unless it's a large area. Concrete hutches are very common here in France but I think they are too small for rabbits to live happily in and they can't see each other. Here's a photo:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AV2OkMBGTggwPrBWXtk6beq8p8qR5CtwlN0m7wL5BvY?feat=directlink


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## mama24 (Feb 12, 2012)

Rabbits poop in one corner, so only that corner will get a bunch of poop in it, easy to clean up. They won't kill/ruin the grass in their whole run like chickens do.


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## lastfling (Feb 12, 2012)

Mine poops in one corner too, but that corner's changing all the time.


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## tiny_tam (Feb 13, 2012)

ThreeBoysChicks said:
			
		

> Take a look at this link.  I have purchased chickens and sheep from our friends at Whitmore Farms.  They house ther breeding stock outside.  They have a picture at the bottom of the page that shows one of their outside houses.


ThreeBoysChicks I didn't get the link but would be very interested to see it!

All of you - thank you very much. Certainly feeling more like giving it ago but will perhaps reduce to a smaller number - just one breeding pair and see how they go


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