# Lol yet another fencing thread



## member 21230 (Dec 26, 2020)

Q


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## secuono (Dec 26, 2020)

Can I ask why you don't like RK? I have love/hate for TSC, lol.


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## Baymule (Dec 26, 2020)

I'd try this one first. It sounds like it would be the best one to stretch for a tight fence. @Mike CHS what say you? 



			https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bekaert-sheep-goat-fence-330-ft-1348-4-125-ga-213412?cm_vc=-10005


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## Beekissed (Dec 27, 2020)

I thought you had decided on this type of fencing....the electric sheep fencing.


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## Baymule (Dec 27, 2020)

Beekissed said:


> I thought you had decided on this type of fencing....the electric sheep fencing.
> 
> View attachment 79802



I think he has decided he wants a permanent fence line on the property lines, then can subdivide with the electric fence.


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## secuono (Dec 27, 2020)

Crealcritter said:


> There's a number of reasons... But mainly their employees are they are rude, staff turn over is high, they don't know their ass from a hole in the ground and the store is a disorganized train wreck.



Same for my local TSCs. They also don't order what I ask, they just ignore it or "forget" & I have to nag them every week until they do it. And then they may not call me when order arrives or worse, sell it out from under me when it should be held for me. Ugh.


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## Baymule (Dec 27, 2020)

secuono said:


> Same for my local TSCs. They also don't order what I ask, they just ignore it or "forget" & I have to nag them every week until they do it. And then they may not call me when order arrives or worse, sell it out from under me when it should be held for me. Ugh.


Order online, pay for it and pick up at local TSC. Easy. If a store orders it, it may or may not show up. If customer orders online, it shows up.


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## Mike CHS (Dec 27, 2020)

Baymule said:


> I'd try this one first. It sounds like it would be the best one to stretch for a tight fence. @Mike CHS what say you?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bekaert-sheep-goat-fence-330-ft-1348-4-125-ga-213412?cm_vc=-10005



Half of our fence is Red Brand and they didn't carry that particular fence when I got mine but half of our fence are from bekaert.  I like the Gaucho because it's as strong as Red Brand, half the weight (so I can handle it alone) and the price is reasonable.

Edit to add that the Gaucho is not recommended for goats.  I had forgotten and was thinking just sheep and cattle.


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## farmerjan (Dec 27, 2020)

We use all stock fence... 48" tall,  6" upright stays, graduated from closer to further apart bottom to top.  Works fine for the sheep with no horns, but a pain for the young rams that have horns at 2 months.  Horses will put their feet in/on it and ride it down if they want... so I am not much help.  But there are 2 guys here closeby with goats, running 50-100 meat goats and they also use the straight woven wire stock fence.... one uses the Gaucho, the other likes Red Brand.  The high tensile has advantages and we like it okay in the woven wire type... but I think DS likes the red brand better.  Bekaert has a good reputation here.


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## secuono (Dec 27, 2020)

Baymule said:


> Order online, pay for it and pick up at local TSC. Easy. If a store orders it, it may or may not show up. If customer orders online, it shows up.



No, you can't for a lot of stuff, especially the stuff I need.


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## secuono (Dec 27, 2020)

Crealcritter said:


> I guess I should of specified perimeter fence, sorry about that.
> 
> I'm seriously considering Timeless Fence with 12.5ga high tensile electric wire for the perimeter. I have zero issues with using electric fencing. I know how to install it, I know how to test it and I know how to repair it. I could also use battery powered solar chargers or just regular AC chargers, or a combination of the two.
> 
> ...



I got the Timeless Fence free sample kit, it feels very nice and sturdy!


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## Baymule (Dec 27, 2020)

@Mike CHS the link you posted is for field fencing with 6" holes. The link he posted for the gaucho fence is for sheep and goats and has 4"x4" holes. Just thought I'd point that out. LOL


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## Mike CHS (Dec 27, 2020)

I copied the wrong link


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## Farmer6255 (Dec 30, 2020)

Crealcritter said:


> Looking at fencing for sheep, goats and cows 4"x4" squares woven wire 4'x330' The options are so confusing... I wished there was a companion guide or something. I've decided that I will buy my fencing from Tractor Supply, I have a Love/Hate relationship with Rural King, currently the needle is leaning towards hate.
> 
> *Option #1 $220.00
> https**://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hinge-joint-sheep-goat-fence*
> ...


You also need to consider the posts you are putting the wire on. If it's all new stuff (posts and wire) then I'd go with the one with best longevity. If you are putting it on old posts then a 10-20 year mesh life might be ok if that's all the posts will last. 

Hinge joint is good among trees where there fence might get something fall on it, but I find stock can stretch hinge joint easier than the wire mesh designs with one solid vertical wire.

Tim Thomson has done some good wire fencing reviews on yt.


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## Mike CHS (Dec 31, 2020)

I think I already said that half our place is the Gaucho and half is Red Brand.  I like the Gaucho better, it stays tighter than Red Brand under animal pressure, requires fewer posts since you can stretch it tighter and in spite of it's light appearance, it is stronger Red Brand.


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## Baymule (Dec 31, 2020)

We put up the Red Brand, good thick wire, right? Uhhhh...... POS. Didn't stretch worth a durn, I pulled on it until the tractor front tires were off the ground. It is wavy at the top. It is not tight. We worked our a$$es off on that fence!


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## farmerjan (Jan 1, 2021)

There is a different method to putting up, and stretching the high tensile fencing, like gaucho, and red brand fence that is a different type of wire.  
We put up mostly all red brand or another type of wire.  I personally don't care for high tensile fencing that is single wire, and don't have much experience with the high tensile woven wire fencing.  

So some of it has to do with your experience in putting up fence.  I can tell you, contrary to what I would think was common sense.... fencing should be stretched from both ends to the middle to get proper tensile strength, then attached at the junction point.   I went to a fencing school and watched the professionals and really got some new insight on fence building.   I am not going to try to do any woven wire fencing myself anymore.  I will help with the post driver, I will "nail off" the fencing at the posts with staples, but the actual building/stretching I will leave to my son or an expert.  It takes some expertise to get the right stretch, and to get it to stay tight after. 
The best thing about high tensile fence is it's ability to "bounce back" after a tree or other thing falls on it.  Even the woven wire fence will come back to a semblance of normal after a tree or something falls on it.


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## Mike CHS (Jan 10, 2021)

I think you will like that fence.  I have one run that had a tree fall down on it and packed down about the top 18 inches.  I cleared it off and only the top couple of inches were bent down and I was able to straighten that out.  I do have hot and ground on top that held a lot of the weight.  It wasn't a big tree and was only around 6 inches at the base and of course less at the point that came down.


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## Mike CHS (Jan 11, 2021)

The hot wires aren't attached to the fence but are ran above the fence.   If an animal touches both a hot and ground wire at the same time, they close the circuit and receive a shock.


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## Kusanar (Feb 1, 2021)

We have x braces made of wire on all of our corners. We only have boards going across on gate posts and those are both x braced and have another post going across the top to brace the 2 posts together.


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## Kusanar (Feb 1, 2021)

Crealcritter said:


> Thanks 😊 any chance you could post a picture? I am a very visual kind of guy.


I'll be going out there tomorrow, I'll try to get a pic then specifically of the post setup. 

This will give you an idea though until I get better ones. 

You can see 1 side of the wire x and you can see the post going across the top, this is one of the same posts we used as fence posts that is wedged in between the gate post and another one and pegged in place with a rebar stake.


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## Kusanar (Feb 2, 2021)

Crealcritter said:


> Something like this maybe?View attachment 81127


Yep! Pretty much exactly! Ours aren't cemented in, but they were sharpened and shoved in the ground with no holes being dug (we have a front end loader we used to plant posts) so they were tight from the start.


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## Kusanar (Mar 4, 2021)

Sounds right to me


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## Kusanar (Mar 8, 2021)

Crealcritter said:


> Ran the zero turn finsh mower over the pasture. There is nice green grass under all that over brush, left from bush hogging last fall. I calculated the pasture area at just a little over 4 acres. I want to start of with a cow and her calf and 6 hair sheep. I have another 10 acre pasture that won't be fenced this year. But will be mowed for hay twice, weather permitting... Hopefully I'll have enough grass and hay for them. What's your thoughts?
> 
> Next is corner posts, should be fun...


I don't know what the stocking rate is in your area. Here it is 1 animal unit for every 2 acres. With the species you are looking at, 1 cow and her calf or 6 ewes and their lambs are 1 animal unit, so you would be looking at 2 animal units which would be about right for where I am with that 4 acre lot. The 10 acres should produce enough hay if it is decent grass. 

I have probably somewhere around 8 acres fenced and about an acre not fenced, I have 2 normal horses and a mini, so somewhere around 2.5 animal units or 5 acres worth. We bale the 8 acres with the animals in the field when the spring grass is growing faster than they can keep up along with the acre not fenced, then the acre not fenced gets baled again later in the summer and that produces enough hay for the winter as long as they don't trash a lot of it (I feed in a hay net to prevent them from trashing it)


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## Grant (Mar 14, 2021)

I had a similar auger when I was putting in all my fence. You’ll be glad you’ve got that.


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## farmerjan (Mar 14, 2021)

We have a post hole digger and it sits.  We use the driver for most everything.  You get a tight post right from the get go without tamping and all that.  But we don't have flat land and we DO have lots of rock and ledge. 

I think we use a grade 5 shear pin on the bush hog;  the tractor is a 7040 and it is a batwing bush hog.... the Duetz is about a 80-90 hp and use the 8 ft bush hog on it....  again we have alot of ledge and rock and I spend alot of time picking the bush hog up to glide over them.  We will use it on 3-4 ft autumn olive and cedars too....

You're getting there.


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## farmerjan (Mar 16, 2021)

Crealcritter said:


> There's just something really satisfying about bush hogging autumn olives. I wouldn't bush hog a cedar though. I would dig it up and plant it somewhere else.


Please come visit... you can go through and start digging cedars...... We might even pay you as well as give you all you want to take home.......


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## Baymule (Mar 17, 2021)

I set the corner posts and ran a string from corner to corner. If too long of a span, I set a T-post in the middle and wrapped the string around it. 

If you continually graze the same pasture, the animals will graze their favorite grasses hard. Every time they grow a little, the animals will nip them off. This has been known to kill the grasses, since it gets bit off and can't grow. Unless you have galloping, growing a foot a day grass, you need to rest it. This of course, means that you need at least TWO pastures to rotate the animals on. Pounding T-posts is vastly satisfying. We have a pounder like yours, but my favorite is a home made one that is real heavy. If you can lift it up, it gathers velocity coming down and really whams the T-post! Haha


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## farmerjan (Mar 17, 2021)

And you take and cross fence with some moveable electric to cut them down to 1-2 acres so that the animals have to graze the WHOLE section... hard.... eating everything, then moved off to another section.  You will actually get more of the desirable grasses  growing better as it seems that many of the undesirable types grow fast early, then,   if cut way down or grazed, it takes longer for them to recover and the preferred grasses get enough light and more water to grow faster.... we run 15 cows with calves on a place that is divided into about 5-6 paddocks,  some are only 3-5 acre sections;  and they will be in some for only 5-7 days and then moved out and the good grass comes back gangbusters....


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## farmerjan (Mar 19, 2021)

Actually, the tractor looks about balanced for the post hole digger.....not enough HP is alot worse than too much... you will learn to find the sweet spot with that tractor....


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## Grant (Mar 19, 2021)

Those old ACs are great tractors and you can do about anything with them if you know what you are doing.  Just don’t shove the auger down so it goes as fast as it can.   Go slow and clean out the hole with the auger as you go.  If you go too fast you may have to back the auger out.  That has to be done by hand.  It is NOT fun.  Ask me how I know.


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## Mike CHS (Mar 20, 2021)

At least it doesn't look like you have much of a rock problem.  I always carried a half dozen shear pins with me whenever we were digging fence post holes.


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## farmerjan (Mar 20, 2021)

Oh, to have ground like that with NO ROCK or LEDGE......


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## WyoLiving (Mar 22, 2021)

DH sets all of our wooden corner posts in concrete.  He is not a woodworker per se, but he is an engineer.
He uses a "H" brace system with and "x" of wire for the corners and gate posts.


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## farmerjan (Apr 12, 2021)

One suggestion.... make your gates 16 footers.... you never know when you need to get through one with a truck, tractor, trailer.... whatever.... If it is snowy you need leeway, if it is muddy, you need leeway.... put 2,  8 footers if you want, but believe me.... having to put in a bigger gate is a royal PITA......Ask anyone on here that has put in 8 or 10 or 12 ft gates and they will all tell you that they wish they had put in a bigger gate.... 
On top of that, if you need to get a neighbors equipment in to say, use a discbine to cut hay, or a tractor, baler , wagon combination, there is room for them.   Most drills that you rent from even a co-op, need a minimum 10 or 12 foot gate to squeeze through.   I have a little Farmall H and the one place has 10 ft and 12 ft gates from field to field... and it is a real jockeying to get a pull behind side delivery rake through them.... The rake is offset,  and I have to go through 2 of the gates at a certain angle and then swing the tractor around so it pulls the rake through at an angle to get it between the posts. 
12 foot may be wide enough, but with little wiggle room.... believe me it is a pain to have to barely "crawl through"  with the equipment touching the sides of the posts.


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