# What breed is right for me?



## equinehugger3 (Oct 24, 2011)

I know there have been these before, but I was curious as to what you guys thought. Sorry if this is a bit annoying. 

Alright, here's some stuff about me and my experience! 

I've been riding for roughly 6-7 years. 
I've ridden Western almost that whole time, maybe a year Australian, but I just started English. I think that's the path I want to stay on for competing, which is what I'm going to be doing. I'll stay with Western for trails and stuff sometimes.  
I've fallen many times, so I'm not new to that, but I'm still a bit cautious. I mean, I won't canter a horse until I'm sure s/he's not going to bolt or act up. I know it's unreasonable, not to mention dangerous, to not be afraid of anything, but I know I need to work on my confidence.
S/he'd be pasture boarded with a blanket in the winter.
Just to give you an idea of the climate, I live in NW WI.  

I'll happily post anything I've forgotten. 
Thank you!


----------



## Pumpkinpup (Oct 24, 2011)

I would say a Appendix bred QH. You can go either western or english and do very well with that breed as well as they have a nice mild temperment as a general rule.


----------



## Horsiezz (Oct 24, 2011)

I agree with appendix quarter horse. They are very versatile like a quarter horse, but they also have pretty movements for dressage and most are great jumpers. They have a bit more endurance too. Its a good cross.


----------



## goodhors (Oct 25, 2011)

Do you have an actual goal in mind, when you have done a series of English training?
Do you think you would like to jump, prefer working on just being a better rider or 
move into dressage or even Eventing?  I am asking about competition where breed
is not really an issue, but having a horse you can manage is the important thing.  A 
horse to learn on, stays cooperative, is what it sounds like you need at this point, not
any special breed.  And a breed is a law of averages, with some higher spirited, some not
at all spirited, and many who are USUALLY nice but may need some skill to manage.

I would start looking at horses I can easily manage riding, that THEN are sort of capable
of doing what I want as I work towards my goal activity.  You want them sound in the 
body, easy to manage.  Older horse may have a lot of training in him, so you can do 
the work of getting your body where it needs to be in asking him to perform.  Then when
you ask "correctly", he responds well because he knows HOW.  This is better than trying 
to train a young horse to a new skill, both of you are total newbies and don't understand
how to do it.

QHs seem to be common everywhere, easily found.  And depending on if you wish to show 
under English Judges or QH Judges, the results of training may not put you in the ribbons.
QH has their own way of doing things, which is not neccessarily the English way of doing things.
And the average QH is not built to go like a true English horse, especially if his withers are
below his rump height.  "On the bit" is a foreign concept to any Western trained horse and most
of the English trained QHs.  They are not allowed to take hold of the bit, get punished for it.

Do you have a trainer or good horse knowledgable friend?  You may want to ask them to come
with you on any "tryouts" of horses you may want to buy.  You will need to pay the Trainer for 
their time, maybe pay food and gas for your friend, to come evaluate the horse physically, and 
how well you can manage it.  If they have any skill, they can spot problems way before you do, as
well as good things about the animal and you together.

You need a list of what you want in the horse, things you can't trade off.  Good legs and hooves, fairly
straight legged, no old scars from being a poor mover.  Age is iffy, with some older animals who 
act quite young, lots of life left.  Usually want them a little older so they are a bit more accepting 
with a learning rider, but not taking advatage either.  They have seen and done many things, willing
to work for you.  I will give a lot on looks, cute head is about my least worry.  Color also is not 
a big deal, because good horses come in ALL colors.  Even Appaloosa!  Horse should be easy to catch, 
saddle and bridle, have his feet worked on.  

Check the teeth, shows age, having had regular care in his 
past.  ASK about bad habits like wood chewing, pawing fences, biting, fights with other pastured horses.
If he is an expensive animal, you probably want to spend extra and get a Pre-Purchase Exam by a Vet.
Spend a bit on knee, hock, fetlock and hoof X-Rays.  They show bony changes, and lots of older horses 
have changes, but may not affect their ability to be used.  Do not spend more on the PPE than the horse
costs!  If horse is registered, make sure the papers match the description of the horse in front of you and 
ARE CURRENT with name of the person selling you the horse. Trying to trace horse backwards to get papers
straight can be a nightmare or unfixable when they never were transferred.  Cost of bringing papers up to
date can get expensive as well.  If papers matter, you have to make a choice sometimes by walking away.

Other breeds can be a lot of fun to ride, not just a QH.  They are ALSO capable athletes in many areas with
excellent training.  Perhaps you would like a smaller horse, where an Arab or Morgan could be just what you 
needed.  I know a very nice Morgan eventer, lower level, takes good care of his rider.  Arabs have been doing
better in Dressage recently, along with their other talents.  Can also jump well at lower heights.  The half-draft 
crosses have a mixed bag of reports on temperment, skills and abilities.  Do know that with often being quite large, tack 
and shoeing are special so they can cost more.

Will the pasture board be quite close to your house?  Does it include a shelter of some kind?  Will you be 
able to get out to see horse daily, weekly, now and again?  The thing with blankets is they often shift, other
horses may pull or tear them, so someone needs to check horse for safety at least daily.  Blankets are 
expensive, may need to be changed as the weather changes.  There is no "one perfect for everything" kind 
of horse blanket.  Even the waterproof one may leak, so you have a wet horse that can't get dry without 
fluffing his hair, standing in a strong wind.  That can make a horse sick.  If horse has a shelter, he may not 
need a blanket.  He can fluff his hair to suit the weather, stand inside to get out of the wind.  Getting plenty
of hay to keep him warm, along with lots of water, he will probably be pretty happy even outside in the cold.
Does get cold in NW WI, so some kind of shelter for a windbreak, good water not frozen, plenty of good hay is the 
most important stuff.

In your daily handling, you need to pull his blanket and give him a good grooming to help circulation, fix the itches, 
FEEL HIS RIBS.   Can you even FIND a rib?  He may need a food cut back if fat or more if losing weight.  You can't 
tell that with his blanket on!!  Strictly a hands on check, digging finger thru the deep hair to feel the ribs. Check 
hooves for ice or rocks daily.  Or maybe put snow pads on with his studded shoes for grip.  That will
give him traction on ice, hard ground, so the shiny side stays up.  

Hope these ideas are helpful in horse hunting and horse keeping.


----------



## proudtobeafarmgirl (Jul 22, 2012)

I like my laid back QH and really liked my QH/Morgan mare.


----------



## michickenwrangler (Jul 22, 2012)

goodhors said:
			
		

> Do you have an actual goal in mind, when you have done a series of English training?
> Do you think you would like to jump, prefer working on just being a better rider or
> move into dressage or even Eventing?  I am asking about competition where breed
> is not really an issue, but having a horse you can manage is the important thing.  A
> ...


x2


----------



## FlaRocky (Jul 22, 2012)

michickenwrangler said:
			
		

> goodhors said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


XX 10

 Have you thought about finding a lease, for learning all the new things you want to do. That way you can get lessons and learn on a horse you are not stuck with. That way if you advance faster than you thought you would you can upgrade your mount easier. Or change your mind about what you want to do, you are not stuck with a horse that only is good at the one thing you don't want to do in the ring.  Just some thoughts to bring up.

 Maye

 Ride the Glide....Got Gait....I do, on my Rocky Mountain Horse......


----------



## TNBarnQueen (Sep 19, 2012)

One thing to do as well when you are going to look at a horse.....arrive about 30-45 min. early. I have seen so many people go look at a horse and find it so calm and easy to work with only to find out it is a monster after they get it home. There are a lot of dishonest people out there and they will ace the horse so it seems calm and happy when you arrive. One way to tell is to rake your fingernails across it's underbelly. If it twitches it is usually OK...if it doesn't possibly aced. I would suggest you take someone with you who is very versed in the type of horse you are getting. I have gone with a lot of people that I have accompanied to look at horses they want to buy but feel they need another opinion. I agree an appendex would be ideal.


----------

