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Why don't you send a sample in to have it tested? That would eliminate the possibility of using antibiotics unnecessarily, which sounds like it's the main concern. If the doe indeed has subclinical mastitis I wouldn't fool around with anything but proper antibiotics, like aggie said.

I'm assuming you meant to write "Boers," since I'm sure you wouldn't be keeping pigs with your dairy gals. ;) :P 10X16 is a nicely sized barn for a couple full sized goats. It's just not a suitable size for confinement. But a 10X16 barn with a paddock could do very nicely for a couple goats.

I'd get a fecal first. If it's clean you may need to tweak your feed management. But regular fecals are important.

I agree- the first place I'd start is with a fecal then go from there. Are they getting any/enough alfalfa?

I'd be in "better safe than sorry" mode and lute at least the does who were too young to breed (but at a fertile age.)

The larger amounts still absorb slowly and you'd have to give far more than 200ccs to create issues with abscessing so it's very much safe to do so. If you check on her every 3 hours or so you can check the "camel hump" and replace the fluids when you see they've absorbed.

I groom for a living, so I use my Andis AGC dog clippers using a #7FC blade reversed (used against the grain.) I think a #10 reversed on the body is far too short, but I do use a shorter blade on the legs (#15 with the grain or #10 reversed depending on the coat.) I think it gives the legs a...

I love clipping kids! They look so darn sleek and that baby coat is SOFT when it's clipped short. Like little Velveteen Rabbits. :)

10x16 is a great size for a barn, but that shouldn't be their only space. If they had a paddock such that they could use the 10x16 as a run in but still have access to a larger area outdoors that would be fine. That's a small space for a goat to be confined in 24/7.

x2

They are already old enough to require separation. Your 4 month olds are capable of getting bred but certainly not ready. Congrats on your new herd! :)

I've never seen any reference to it... but like you said there is a limited amount of info floating around about laminitis in goats. Since you know already that grain (without molasses) causes her an immediate issue why not try adding a small amount of molasses to her alfalfa pellets without...

If I'm giving fluids SQ I always give at least 100cc's LRS. Usually closer to 200cc's on an adult. It'll absorb slowly and keep them hydrated for longer- I don't think 15-30ccs will really make an impact unless you're giving fluids several times daily.

Are you concerned about predators getting into your paddock? If so you can continue to lock them up at night. If you don't have a possible predator issue than there's really no reason I can see that they'd need to be locked in the calf hutch at night in decent weather.

We sell all our babies disbudded as well. Most breeders/buyers (certainly those involved in dairying or show) are interested only in disbudded goats so you're essentially removing the animal from the (registered) gene pool by not disbudding. I don't want to limit my kids' futures if I can help it.

Did you try the shreds or pellets? Soaked or dry? Probably all of the above... :lol: Ours love beet pulp- I have yet to have one of ours refuse. But, goats can be picky creatures.

Are you sure Safeguard is effective in your area? In my area it's not used to treat anything but tapes and tapeworms are not a concern in terms of periparturient rise.

Have you tried beet pulp? I doubt it would completely solve the chronic underconditioning, but it does provide a highly digestable fiber and may help provide calories without affecting her laminitis (?). Purely speculation on my part, we've never dealt with founder. But I have been happy with...

That doesn't make ANY sense... wth would you show a dairy animal in a meat goat class?! Apples and oranges.

I would not be without "Goat Medicine". It is a comprehensive resource and not your basic "Storey's Guide" sort of information. I highly recommend it.