Buying a certain breed

[jhm47]

This is what I have done in the past when I needed a chute, and others will likely have many other suggestions.

You will need the following for a 17 ft chute (this could be longer or shorter as needed):

10- 5-6 inch diameter wooden posts, 8 feet long
4- bags of post setting sacrete, or concrete mix
1-4X8X3/4" sheet of treated plywood
16-8' 2X6, preferably treated
A couple of 5-6'X18" pieces of scrap plywood
Approximately 450 3/8 X 5" lag bolts with appropriate washers
A post hole digger approximately 8" holes and a pole or rod to tamp the dirt in after setting the posts, and use a level and chalkline to get things straight.

First, establish where you wish to place the chute. It is best to select a well drained area, where you can easily expand it. You will need a small "holding pen" at the rear of the chute, and most have another small holding pen at the front for the animals after treatment.

Second, Dig 2 post holes about 34" apart, 2 1/2 feet deep, on center where you want the headgate to be located, level, and measure 31" between the inside of the posts (not on center). This always seems to be too narrow, but a chute that's too wide is a big problem, since the cattle will try to turn around and sometimes get hurt.

Third, set your posts, and dump enough sacrete or concrete mix to fill holes, add water as necesary. Be SURE posts are standing straight upright. Measure 31" between the inside of each post. There is no changing this after the concrete sets.

Fourth, set another set of posts 4' back from the first, using the same dimensions. BE SURE that all 4 posts line up exactly. Anchor with sacrete or concrete

Fifth, Set yet another set of posts 4' back from the second set. Again, same dimensions, and be sure that they line up. Anchor with sacrete or concrete if you have enough left.

Sixth, about 18" behind the third set of posts, dig another set of holes, same dimensions (this is for a pair of walk in swinging gates for your access to the rear of the cattle) These don't need to be anchored quite as well, since the cattle won't be pushing against them as much.

Seventh, again, 8 feet behind the last posts, set another 2 posts, using the same dimensions. You could add another set of posts halfway between these for added strength, but is usually isn't necessary.

Eighth, Cut your 4X8 sheet of treated plywood in half. You will then have two 2 X 8 sheets. Go to the front of the chute, and hang each sheet about 8-10 inches off the ground, and use plenty of lag bolts on them. Be sure that they are level.

Ninth, Add a set of 8' 2X6's about 2" above the plywood. Don't go much higher than that, or the cattle might bet a foot between the plywood and the 2X6.

Tenth, Add another set of 8' 2X6's about 4 inches above the others.

Eleventh, Add yet another set about 6" above the last one. This should bring you nearly to the top of the posts (about 5' high). If your cattle are wild, and like to jump, I'd substitute the top 2X6 for a 2X8 for added strength.

Twelfth, Place your remaining 2X6's on the rear posts.

Thirteenth, get 2 pairs of heavy hinges, and attach your scrap pieces of plywood between posts 3 and 4. Place them so you can easily walk between them to access your cattle from the rear. Be sure to be able to place a wooden post behind the cattle so you won't get kicked.

Good luck!

 

[Farmer Kitty]

The main reason that black cattle are more popular is primarily because of the Certified Angus Beef program. Of course, Black Angus cattle are what is needed to qualify for this program, and they traditionally have brought more at the finished beef markets. CAB cattle have a number of requirements to qualify for the program, and one of the first is that they be "black hided".
It's not just the angus cattle they prefer black in through. Even in the holstein breed black and white is preferred.

I do not in any way wish to say that cattle of other colors are not good. They are. It's just that in this day and age, in auction barns, "black is beautiful".

As for the white ring around the eyes, the reason for not liking that is because cattle with black faces have a lower prevalence of pinkeye. Pinkeye is an infectious disease that often causes cattle to go blind if they are not treated. Flies are what carry the disease from cow to cow, and they seem to prefer the white around the eyes. We've never had much pinkeye trouble either way.

Now---I am sure that many of you will vehemently disagree with me on this, but I strongly recommend that each and every head of cattle have an insecticide ear tag put in each ear. This will definitely cut down on your pinkeye problems, and also enable the cattle to suffer much less during the fly season. Be sure to apply the recommended amount of tags. They don't work nearly as well when you try to "skimp" on the amount. If they recommend 2 in each cow, and one in the calf, be sure to comply. Many people have tried different ways to save a few bucks, and put only one in each cow, and one in the calfves, but this won't work nearly as well. The amount of suffering that you will save your animals from is unbelievable. And---they will gain weight and grow much faster if they are not being tormented by these nasty flies. Your right some will disagree, I for one! We do not use them and won't. We do use other methods of fly/pest control though and that is key, controlling the flies/pests. Whatever way you choose make sure it works good for you.

 

[m.holloway]

hey jhm47 there, do you have a pic on the chute????

 

[jhm47]

I do not have any pictures of my chutes. I have a digital camera, but don't know how to transfer the pics to my computer. Maybe when some of the kids come home???

 

[Beekissed]

I've read that a "J" shaped alley into your shutes is the most effective for getting cattle to go easily into the shutes.

 

[jhm47]

Yes, a curved alley for a chute is the best, however, they are more difficult to construct, and take more space. The reason that I suggested a straight one is because of ease of construction. Most people on this website only have a very few cattle, and they won't use their chute very often, so a straight one is fine for them.

 

[Imissmygirls]

JMO, but if you only have one or two critters, tame them down well enough to work with them just tied to a pole. If you start as calves, tie them often, halter break them, get them used to it, you should be able to work without a chute. Especially on a 3 acre plot, it is small enough that you are handling them every day for feeding/etc.
I always liked ours tame enough that we could bait them with a bucket of feed and once they had a rope on them, they knew to stop fighting. ON the plus side, when they broke the fence, a bucket of grain and a halter was all we needed to round them up.
Our milk cow got AI bred and preg checked with just an adult holding a halter.
Can you train an older one? Yes, if you have a place to tie her securely for a week or two and a secure place to walk her until she learns. This takes muscle though and preferably someone who knows what they are doing. Always use kindness, but be firm. Being tied is scary for an animal used to being free.
The more you have, the harder this all will be! Farmer Kitty likely has very few cows that are halter trained!
AS for insects, for one or two critters, try the fly head screens they make for horses. They help a lot.

 

[m.holloway]

Thanks! I understand about the pic thing. I have to wait for my kids to so I can post pics to.But if you do get one please post it. Of course if you want to. For now I'll just copy the written plan.

 

[wynedot55]

if you have to you can always halter break a calf or cow with the tractor.been there done that.just tie the calf tween the hay forks.get on the outside an walk beside them holding the leadrope.but always remember to put the tractor in granny gear.an if calf goes down stop right then.

 

[jhm47]

Imissmygirls: I miss mine too, and also my boys. But--back to the chute/rope thing: If a rope works for you, fine. In my situation, it won't work. Our cattle are on large pastures all summer. We are not able to handle them every day, and breaking every calf to lead is impossible. Handling cows that are not broken to lead is extremely dangerous for both the person handling the cow, and for the cow herself. That's doubly dangerous when you have to handle a 2400 lb. bull. That's why I recommend that people have a chute. If you don't need it, fine, but when you need to perform some painful procedure on a cow, you've got it.

As to fly control, I can't imagine raising cattle without the insecticide ear tags. We have both face flies and horn flies here, along with houseflies and deer flies. These bloodsuckers can torment our cattle unmercifully, and I hate to see them suffer. On our range situation, we can just put a couple tags in each cow and one in their calf, and our fly control is about done for the summer. Of course, this is what works in our situation, and I certainly respect your view.

During the summer, I breed several thousand synchronized heifers for area ranchers. A chute is definitely needed for these ranchers. Ropes would endanger the handlers and the cattle, and I wouldn't even try doing it without one. So, it all boils down to this---we all have to do what works best in our own individual situations.