Most around these parts have tractors with front-end loaders (FEL) to deal with that. A minivan is built on a car chasis and there is a reason ya never see one with a livestock trailer hitched to it with large animals in them....weight and movement. I've seen plenty of light weight vehicles with trailers in accidents even with campers when they lose traction and spin around and around til they hit something. I use to drive a big truck for a living. Truly I am not against your dreams and desires, but there are some things that must be considered for your safety and that of your family. Since ya are just starting out, it is best to start a bit small and then move to large. Especially, when the large animal will cost more, more to feed, and a much bigger loss if something were to happen to it. I certainly want you to succeed and have a great experience in getting there.
Thanks for the thoughts! Towing with the minivan is something that I've given A LOT of thought to... As you know, it's not exactly the ideal tow vehicle, but the Odyssey does suit our purposes right now. That said, I'm very careful about staying well below the 3500 lb tow limit, I watch my tongue weight, use sway control and electronic braking, and am careful to balance loads. I drive under 65 at all time while towing, and I have to admit that I breathe a little sigh of relief the first time I get behind the wheel of the unhitched Ody after a trip pulling something. But I've put a couple thousand towing miles, at least, on the minivan, and I've never felt like it was even a marginal ride-- it performs well for what I've used it for. I absolutely realize that towing is inherently more dangerous than everyday driving, and I do take that responsibility seriously.
I honestly don't know what the dry weight of a small livestock trailer is. I haven't gotten to the point of looking into it yet. But I suspect that I could stay well within my tow limits using a small trailer and just about any animal we'd have on our homestead. I'm guessing the beasts would top out around 800 lb-- that would be either a large donkey or a Dexter cow. The more important consideration for me would be the animal moving around and throwing off the balance... How do folks hauling animals get around that? Also, we wouldn't be moving animals around just for fun. We would do it only on a limited basis for short hauls. So I think I would be comfortable towing animals with the van, although if I am missing something, then I would certainly like some advice on that.
Regarding the "car chassis"-- I think you're referring to body-on-frame vs unibody vehicles? I know Honda builds the Odyssey on a "light global truck platform" or something like that, and it is a unibody. I know the BOF is better for towing, but I'm honestly not sure whether that's an important consideration for light duty towing? Again, I'm not pushing the published limits on my towing capability... I can totally see BOF being very important if you're pulling 8,000 lb or if you're pulling a trailer weighing considerably more than your tow vehicle or something, but for a 3000 lb load being pulled by a minivan with a curb weight of 4000+? I honestly don't know... I would appreciate your thoughts, though!
Hello again! Sounds like you're already well on your way

One recommendation that could save you thousands of $$... Check with the county appraisal office where you're buying and find out for SURE how many acres are required to claim the Ag exemption. They will normally require that you have a minimum of 1 acre with the house and whatever their minimum is after that... some counties are as low as 5 acres, some are much higher. Also, make SURE you know the time requirement and try to buy land that already has the Ag exemption. Where I am, if I had bought land that wasn't already Ag exempt, I'd have had to work it Ag for 5 years before I could get the exemption. The county should also be able to give you a list of what you have to do per acre to have the Ag exemption. Here I can have bee hives, plant pecan trees, have an orchard, run cattle, have goats or sheep, chickens and other poultry don't count. It will say how many per acre are expected. I'm on 19 acres, 1 for the house, 1/2 of the remainder in forestry the other 1/2 in livestock.
Look forward to follwing along with you on your journey. Hope you'll stay with us and share it!
ARRGHH! The ag exemption! That's giving me tons of headaches.

Actually, I was going to try posting a thread specifically about that, but since you brought it up, I'll start here: We've been looking in a couple different counties. The two places we've made offers were in Guadalupe Co and Bexar Co, respectively. Guadalupe Co was 13 acres and currently approved for hay or cattle. Bexar was 10 acres and approved for cattle. Based on what I was told by the tax offices in each county, our homesteading goals are not compatible with maintaining the exemptions.
In Guadalupe Co, there is no minimum acreage for the exemption, BUT you need to run (IIRC) 5 Animal Units regardless of acreage. So if you have 1 acre that you'd like an exemption on, you need 5 AU. If you have 100 acres, you still need only 5 AU. AND it needs to be a straight run of the same type of animal, say 5 head of cattle. You cannot run 2 head of cattle + some number of goats and get the exemption. The tax assessor I spoke with specifically said the ag exemption stuff excludes hobby farms. In the case of the property we were looking at, I felt 5 AU just to get the exemption + any extra animals we wanted for our own would be too much pressure on the land. Fortunately, in Guadalupe Co there is no roll back tax if you drop the ag exemption but do "token ag" on the land for at least 5 years.
In Bexar Co, there is a minimum of 15 acres and 4 AU for cattle. The property we were looking at was 10 acres, so it didn't meet the minimum. However, the owners were running it in conjunction with the neighboring property, so they just kept the fence gates open, the cattle were free to come and go between the properties, and so they were ag exempt for cattle. If we were to buy that land, we'd also need to keep the gates open. Otherwise, we'd have to drop the ag. In Bexar Co, the tax folks told me, there is a roll back penalty if you drop the ag, even if you continue to run a hobby farm on it. In the case of that property, the roll back was $15K+, which was just too much. Plus the yearly taxes after that were very high.
So, we're just running into trouble with the ag exemptions; it doesn't seem like we can run a small, diversified family farm and still qualify for the ag exemption!?!? Fellow Texans, are you all getting the exemption for your homesteads? How are you able to do that? I'm really upset about this-- I don't see why putting 5 cows on 100 acres is "ag" but running a self-sufficient little homestead on 10 acres is not "ag!"

I would absolutely love any tips you all can offer on navigating this!
Good fresh tasting goat milk requires everything to be clean: hands, udders, milking area, milking apparatus. Doesn't need to be "sterile" but it does need to be clean. Once you finish milking take your bounty and get it strained and put in jars and in the refrigerator before you do anything else. I find that once in the refrigerator the milk is yummy for close to a week. It may be great longer than that but it never lasts that long.
Good milk isn't daunting. You just need to pay attention to what you are doing and once you get your routine down it is quite pleasant.
Some breeds do process better tasting milk. Nubians, LaManchas, Alpines and Nigerian Dwarfs are good producers of fine tasting milk.
As you chat with breeders you should mention your apprehension regarding the milk taste and a good breeder would offer a sample. It is in the interest of the breeder to ensure you are clear on what you are buying. I will give a glass of my does milk so a prospective buyer if asked.
These are great tips! Thanks.
Those of you with diary goats, how would you say the taste of fresh goat's milk compares with cows' milk? What about the meat? Is it similar to lamb?