SageHill
Herd Master
AH - yeah - that feeling is going to take a long time to get over.
Ridgetop - our place and how we muddle along
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murphysranch
Herd Master
We had Solar City solar in Angels Camp CA. Our yearly "true up" period was horrendous. It was PG&E.
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- #3,084
Ridgetop
Herd Master
Our White Dorper ewes weigh around 130 lbs. We are feeding 1 flake (10lbs) per 3 sheep per feeding. The rams weigh more and receive slightly more. We have about 40 sheep but the numbers will be higher since most of the ewes will be bred for Texas March lambing. I will probably need to buy for about 50 ewes and the 3 mule/horses. We hope to bring only 2 equines with us but just in case I better plan for 3.
According to the Penn State feeding chart, we are feeding way too much. Since we run our open and pregnant ewes together with our young stock, we feed everyone on the heavy side. We are feeding almost twice what they are recommending. We need to cut back the amount we are feeding now, to make sure that our ewes don't get too fat before trying to breed them in October. Since we are only feeding once a day in an attempt to encourage them to clean up the field, I think we should just continue that amount and not put them back on twice a day feeding. Or split the amount we feed into am and pm feeding.
Here is the Penn State chart on sheep feeding - it is very good. It has tables for 130 lb. ewes and 150 lb. ewes. I have only shown the 130 lb. charts, and have shown the recommended ration that we will be feeding in bold:
3.5 lbs. per ewe per day x 50 sheep = 175 lbs. plus 60 lbs. for the horses = 235 lbs. daily
3.75 lbs. x 50 = 187.5 lbs. + 60 = 247.5 lbs. daily x 60 = 14,850 lbs.
3 lbs. x 50 = 150 + 60 = 210 lbs. daily x 90 = 18,900 lbs.
Now we have to figure how many days on each of those rations the sheep will be maintained.
Note: I have figured the entire 50 sheep at each daily amount to allow for waste, and a 60 day period to allow all ewes to lamb. I am going to allow the maximum amount of feed for the entire 3 months prior to weaning to make sure I have enough hay.
Last 6 weeks of gestation: 14,850 lbs. = 15 round bales @ 1,000 lbs.
Three months nursing twins: 18,900 lbs. = 19 round bales @ 1,000 lbs.
1 month till grass comes in, dry stock: 7,050 lbs. = 7 round bales @ 1,000 lbs.
Total bales 41
I think I will pre-order 50 bales just in case. Then we will bring 100 bales of alfalfa back to Texas to transfer the sheep over to the new grass hay.
Does this sound more like the right amount?
According to the Penn State feeding chart, we are feeding way too much. Since we run our open and pregnant ewes together with our young stock, we feed everyone on the heavy side. We are feeding almost twice what they are recommending. We need to cut back the amount we are feeding now, to make sure that our ewes don't get too fat before trying to breed them in October. Since we are only feeding once a day in an attempt to encourage them to clean up the field, I think we should just continue that amount and not put them back on twice a day feeding. Or split the amount we feed into am and pm feeding.
Here is the Penn State chart on sheep feeding - it is very good. It has tables for 130 lb. ewes and 150 lb. ewes. I have only shown the 130 lb. charts, and have shown the recommended ration that we will be feeding in bold:
Feeding the Flock by Prepared by Michael Fournier, former Penn State Extension Educator
Nonlactating and First 15 Weeks of Gestation
During these two periods, a ewe's nutritional needs do not change a great deal, and her feed requirements are fairly low. Therefore, her needs can be met with any of the following forage rations. Because legume hay is generally more expensive than grass hay, it would be economically sound to feed the cheaper grass hay during these periods. You will note that commercial feeds are not recommended because they cost more and are not necessary during these periods. Choose one:130 pound ewe; Choose one
- Pasture, if adequate
- 3 lbs. of alfalfa or clover hay
- 3.5 lbs. of grass or mixed hay
3.5 lbs. per ewe per day x 50 sheep = 175 lbs. plus 60 lbs. for the horses = 235 lbs. daily
Last 6 weeks of Gestation and Last 8 Weeks of Nursing Single Lamb
A ewe's nutritional requirements during the last 6 weeks of pregnancy and the last 8 weeks of nursing a single lamb are about the same and are treated as one feeding period for ration formulation. The ewe's energy and protein requirements are higher during this period and the ration must be adjusted accordingly. You will note that some of the rations are completely hay. Many ewes in late pregnancy cannot consume that much forage because their digestive system is squeezed by the lambs in the uterus. Therefore, you may find that you have to use a combination of hay and grain during this period.130 pound ewe; Choose one
- Pasture, if adequate
- 4.25 lbs alfalfa, clover or mixed hay
- 2.75 lbs alfalfa, clover or mixed hay and 1 lb. corn
- 2 lbs. alfalfa, clover or mixed hay and 2 lbs. corn
- 3.75 lbs. grass hay and 0.5 lb. 14% commercial feed
- 3 lbs. grass hay and 1 lb. 14% commercial feed
- 2 lb. grass hay and 2 lbs. 14% feed
3.75 lbs. x 50 = 187.5 lbs. + 60 = 247.5 lbs. daily x 60 = 14,850 lbs.
First 8 Weeks Nursing Singles and Last 8 Weeks Nursing Twins
During these two periods a ewe's daily requirements are very high and she requires a considerable amount of feed per day. As you can see from the rations below, these periods are the time to use good legume hay. Once the ewe has lambed, grass hay needs to be supplemented with high protein commercial feeds in order to balance the ration. Commercial feeds are generally a good deal more expensive than legume hay.130 pound ewe; Choose one
- Pasture, if adequate
- 4 lbs. alfalfa or clover hay and 1.75 lbs. of corn
- 4.25 lbs. alfalfa or clover hay and 1.5 lbs. of corn
- 4 lbs. mixed hay and 1.75 lbs. 16% commercial feed
- 2 lbs. grass hay and 3.75 lbs. 16% commercial feed
First 8 Weeks of Nursing Twins
There is no other time in a ewe's life when her nutrient requirements are higher than when she is nursing twins. This period requires a great deal of high quality feed. As in the previous examples pasture is included in the event you are on a lambing system where the lambs are born during warm weather. Pure grass pastures will be a little short on protein, but not critically short. A grass pasture with a small amount of clover will meet all energy and protein requirements.130 pound ewe: Choose one
- Pasture, if adequate
- 4.5 lbs. alfalfa or clover hay and 2 lbs. of corn
- 3 lbs. mixed hay and 3.5 lbs. 18% commercial feed
- 2.5 lbs. grass hay and 4 lbs. 18% commercial feed
3 lbs. x 50 = 150 + 60 = 210 lbs. daily x 90 = 18,900 lbs.
Now we have to figure how many days on each of those rations the sheep will be maintained.
Note: I have figured the entire 50 sheep at each daily amount to allow for waste, and a 60 day period to allow all ewes to lamb. I am going to allow the maximum amount of feed for the entire 3 months prior to weaning to make sure I have enough hay.
Last 6 weeks of gestation: 14,850 lbs. = 15 round bales @ 1,000 lbs.
Three months nursing twins: 18,900 lbs. = 19 round bales @ 1,000 lbs.
1 month till grass comes in, dry stock: 7,050 lbs. = 7 round bales @ 1,000 lbs.
Total bales 41
I think I will pre-order 50 bales just in case. Then we will bring 100 bales of alfalfa back to Texas to transfer the sheep over to the new grass hay.
Does this sound more like the right amount?
Baymule
Herd Master
My ewes have free choice grass hay. She’s supposed to have 3-4 pounds hay? Am I going to be a hay monitor with a strobe light on my head and a whistle stuck in my teeth? Gee that sounds like FUN!
Nah, they can have all they want.
I know this is stressful for you, you are unfamiliar with grass hay and round bales. 50 round bales and 100 alfalfa bales should be ok. You are bringing them in January, so basically looking at April or May for the grass to come in.
Worst case scenario is you run out ( I don’t think so) and you have to buy square bales at Tractor Supply. I found a guy that sells alfalfa 3string bales for $27, cheaper than the feed stores. Best case scenario is you have plenty and have some left over.
Take a deep breath, place the order and move on to the next thing. You got this.
Nah, they can have all they want.
I know this is stressful for you, you are unfamiliar with grass hay and round bales. 50 round bales and 100 alfalfa bales should be ok. You are bringing them in January, so basically looking at April or May for the grass to come in.
Worst case scenario is you run out ( I don’t think so) and you have to buy square bales at Tractor Supply. I found a guy that sells alfalfa 3string bales for $27, cheaper than the feed stores. Best case scenario is you have plenty and have some left over.
Take a deep breath, place the order and move on to the next thing. You got this.
- Thread starter
- #3,086
Ridgetop
Herd Master
Having converted my brain to mush by all that figuring, I can go back to reporting on our continuing work here.
DH weed wacked a small portion of the field while waiting for the mobile tractor repair guy. Then he decided it would be better to pull out the goat weed by hand so it can go on the burn piles. Luckily, we had "cool" weather the past few days - 89 degrees and then the humidity dropped Saturday and Sunday. The tractor repair guy fixed the tractor and DH continued to mow the field. I wish we had a rake for the tractor since the amount of Bermuda and rye he cut would make several good-sized bales (not 1000 lb. bales but probably a couple hundred lbs.) Oh well, Tractor Supply sells small ones so maybe we will eventually get one. On the other hand, next year we can just turn the sheep and horses unto the barnyard and let them do the work. LOL DH got most of the barnyard mowed, then came in because the tractor was overheating. Some of the grass was so tall that it was almost impossible to cut. He also wanted me to go out and remove the hot wire that Cody had up around his hay bales. The charger was gone, the wire was cold, but some of the wires were in the grass. We talked to Baymule a while on the phone then went out and I coiled up the wires and put them in the barn. Waste not, want not. Might decide to put it up on the wire fencing.
DH mowed more of the barnyard. We need to take the chainsaws and cut some of the brush out along where there were/are old fences. Once we get it cleaned up it will be easier to keep clean. We need to get a T-post puller too. There are old sections of fence where the T-posts are salvageable for the cross fencing, but we need to pull them out and stack them in the barn. We will also salvage the old gates and pieces of fencing as we remove them from the tangle of bushes that have grown up over them. The barn is slowly getting filled up with corrals, fencing materials, etc.
We have to return to California the end of the month for doctor appointments for DH. He wants to make one more trip out with his small Kubota tractor and the utility trailer before he has his partial knee replacement in October. We will be cutting it close because I will be turning the ewes and rams in together in October for lambing in March. We need to get back, dismantle the portable panels we are currently using, bring them out and get the pens set up here. We also need to bring the rest of the sheep equipment, meds, lambing stuff, etc. back for lambing. Lots of packing since DH has decided to bring the dining room set back next time too. Buffet and china cabinet hand built by my great grandfather. I even have a box of his hand tools with which he made all the furniture.
DH weed wacked a small portion of the field while waiting for the mobile tractor repair guy. Then he decided it would be better to pull out the goat weed by hand so it can go on the burn piles. Luckily, we had "cool" weather the past few days - 89 degrees and then the humidity dropped Saturday and Sunday. The tractor repair guy fixed the tractor and DH continued to mow the field. I wish we had a rake for the tractor since the amount of Bermuda and rye he cut would make several good-sized bales (not 1000 lb. bales but probably a couple hundred lbs.) Oh well, Tractor Supply sells small ones so maybe we will eventually get one. On the other hand, next year we can just turn the sheep and horses unto the barnyard and let them do the work. LOL DH got most of the barnyard mowed, then came in because the tractor was overheating. Some of the grass was so tall that it was almost impossible to cut. He also wanted me to go out and remove the hot wire that Cody had up around his hay bales. The charger was gone, the wire was cold, but some of the wires were in the grass. We talked to Baymule a while on the phone then went out and I coiled up the wires and put them in the barn. Waste not, want not. Might decide to put it up on the wire fencing.
DH mowed more of the barnyard. We need to take the chainsaws and cut some of the brush out along where there were/are old fences. Once we get it cleaned up it will be easier to keep clean. We need to get a T-post puller too. There are old sections of fence where the T-posts are salvageable for the cross fencing, but we need to pull them out and stack them in the barn. We will also salvage the old gates and pieces of fencing as we remove them from the tangle of bushes that have grown up over them. The barn is slowly getting filled up with corrals, fencing materials, etc.
We have to return to California the end of the month for doctor appointments for DH. He wants to make one more trip out with his small Kubota tractor and the utility trailer before he has his partial knee replacement in October. We will be cutting it close because I will be turning the ewes and rams in together in October for lambing in March. We need to get back, dismantle the portable panels we are currently using, bring them out and get the pens set up here. We also need to bring the rest of the sheep equipment, meds, lambing stuff, etc. back for lambing. Lots of packing since DH has decided to bring the dining room set back next time too. Buffet and china cabinet hand built by my great grandfather. I even have a box of his hand tools with which he made all the furniture.
- Thread starter
- #3,087
Ridgetop
Herd Master
It is so much easier with alfalfa bales since the hay peels off in approximately 10 lb. "flakes". Heavy slabs of tightly packed alfalfa. The best alfalfa that is cut and baled at its peak is packed tight and is hard to tear apart. However, being able to peel off hay in approximately 10 lb. slabs makes it easy to figure portions based on weight. We will have to figure out how to panel off the rolls so we can move panels tighter as they eat it down.
Cody txted that he had plenty of hay so could let me have 70 rolls at
- Thread starter
- #3,088
Ridgetop
Herd Master
OOPS! Hate it when that accidently posts.
Cody texted that he had plenty of hay for the winter for his cows so I could have 70 rolls at $50.00/roll. I will tell him that I will take them. Looks like this will be a good hay year up here. But if the rest of the season doesn't live up to its early promise, we will have enough hay. If we have more than we need, I am sure some people will run out and we can share our forethought.
Cody also texted that he has overextended and can't help with the payment for the chicken litter. This confused DH and me since we never planned on him paying for it but it is nice to know that he is agreeable to contribute to fertilizing and liming the hayfields. Overextending for farmers is probably a common thing but we budgeted to pay the $3500 for the litter. Cody also said he had never had it spread in the summer and I was worried about it burning the grass. I told him that we should wait till cooler fall weather to prevent that. So all good.
Instead of any more complicated formulas, and possible brain damage, I will just give Cody a check for $3500 and he will have Payton stack it for us after the next cut. He said if there was not enough in the second cut he would have enough in the third cut.
DH has decided to definitely run water lines from the currently in use water heater in the front of the house to the back bathroom. We will remove the rear HWH but leave the plumbing in place in case it ever needs to go back. We WILL heavily insulate the new pipes running through the attic.
I had taped out the dimensions of my planned island on the kitchen floor. It looked very large so I have scaled it down a bit. I also measured the peninsula top and found that it was within a few inches of being perfect for the island. While I have never liked the color (mustard yellow) the kitchen Formica is in perfect condition. In the interest of saving money for our fences and generator, I have decided to keep the current countertops. I might replace the drop-in avocado green sink which is a shallow one with a deeper sink and add a garbage disposal. I know that you shouldn't have one with a septic tank, but if you are careful about removing all the peelings etc., it is useful for making sure that there are no cloggy bits in the pipes. Tiny fragments always escape down the pipes.
Anyway, I was looking at the peninsula and thinking about what a shame it was that it was in such nice condition and how I hate waste when I realized that if I got it off in one piece I could use it for
the island top!
My taped off diagrams (yes multiple) looked too large so I cut out a piece of the brown floor liner painting paper to the peninsula dimensions and put it on the floor. Perfect size and I will have a matching countertop.
er and 24" wide P & P drawer.
The new island dimensions are much better since they don't dwarf the kitchen. It is a large kitchen but with too big an island, it looks small. Cheaper to do this planning now before I order cabinets. This will give me an small overhang at the end for a stool for DH, and a narrow overhang on the sink side for me to sit at the island working on veggies and fruits for canning, etc. and still see the TV. The new island dimensions are 35" wide by 60" long with a curved end. I like the curved end since I have a habit of hitting my hip on square corners and ending up bruised. Since DH and DS1 are very large, and I am not small (I like the term "buxom"), a smaller island is probably better when we are all using the kitchen.
Now I just have to carefully remove the peninsula top from the cabinets and its base. By using Bruce's suggestion of driving the finish nails through with a nail set, I can also use the paneling on another project. I think I can remove the top from the cabinets fairly easily by pulling it up and rocking it off the nails that seem to be holding it in place from the cabinet. My only problem will be the tile that may have been laid around the base instead of under it. It that is the case, we will have an ugly area of unmatched tile (I can't leave it empty) but I will toss an area rug over the repair. I hope that the base is not attached into the concrete subfloor with bolts. If so, we will have to lift it off the bolts and grind off the bolts. 
Eventually I would like to have waterproof vinyl plank flooring in the living room, kitchen, hallways and bathrooms. $$$ 
Since the house has some cracks showing the normal Texas settling, and some cracked floor tiles, I think putting in the vinyl plank would be better than tile in that it would "give" with the settling.
Anyway, here is a picture of my new work shoes. They have sparkly threads that show up in the sunlight. They are Sketcher "work shoes" and have a hard toe in case I drop a pipe panel or cabinet on my foot. (Been there - done that).
So cute and incredibly comfortable! LOL
Cody texted that he had plenty of hay for the winter for his cows so I could have 70 rolls at $50.00/roll. I will tell him that I will take them. Looks like this will be a good hay year up here. But if the rest of the season doesn't live up to its early promise, we will have enough hay. If we have more than we need, I am sure some people will run out and we can share our forethought.
Cody also texted that he has overextended and can't help with the payment for the chicken litter. This confused DH and me since we never planned on him paying for it but it is nice to know that he is agreeable to contribute to fertilizing and liming the hayfields. Overextending for farmers is probably a common thing but we budgeted to pay the $3500 for the litter. Cody also said he had never had it spread in the summer and I was worried about it burning the grass. I told him that we should wait till cooler fall weather to prevent that. So all good.
Instead of any more complicated formulas, and possible brain damage, I will just give Cody a check for $3500 and he will have Payton stack it for us after the next cut. He said if there was not enough in the second cut he would have enough in the third cut.
DH has decided to definitely run water lines from the currently in use water heater in the front of the house to the back bathroom. We will remove the rear HWH but leave the plumbing in place in case it ever needs to go back. We WILL heavily insulate the new pipes running through the attic.
I had taped out the dimensions of my planned island on the kitchen floor. It looked very large so I have scaled it down a bit. I also measured the peninsula top and found that it was within a few inches of being perfect for the island. While I have never liked the color (mustard yellow) the kitchen Formica is in perfect condition. In the interest of saving money for our fences and generator, I have decided to keep the current countertops. I might replace the drop-in avocado green sink which is a shallow one with a deeper sink and add a garbage disposal. I know that you shouldn't have one with a septic tank, but if you are careful about removing all the peelings etc., it is useful for making sure that there are no cloggy bits in the pipes. Tiny fragments always escape down the pipes.
Anyway, I was looking at the peninsula and thinking about what a shame it was that it was in such nice condition and how I hate waste when I realized that if I got it off in one piece I could use it for
the island top!
My taped off diagrams (yes multiple) looked too large so I cut out a piece of the brown floor liner painting paper to the peninsula dimensions and put it on the floor. Perfect size and I will have a matching countertop.er and 24" wide P & P drawer.
The new island dimensions are much better since they don't dwarf the kitchen. It is a large kitchen but with too big an island, it looks small. Cheaper to do this planning now before I order cabinets. This will give me an small overhang at the end for a stool for DH, and a narrow overhang on the sink side for me to sit at the island working on veggies and fruits for canning, etc. and still see the TV. The new island dimensions are 35" wide by 60" long with a curved end. I like the curved end since I have a habit of hitting my hip on square corners and ending up bruised. Since DH and DS1 are very large, and I am not small (I like the term "buxom"), a smaller island is probably better when we are all using the kitchen. Now I just have to carefully remove the peninsula top from the cabinets and its base. By using Bruce's suggestion of driving the finish nails through with a nail set, I can also use the paneling on another project. I think I can remove the top from the cabinets fairly easily by pulling it up and rocking it off the nails that seem to be holding it in place from the cabinet. My only problem will be the tile that may have been laid around the base instead of under it. It that is the case, we will have an ugly area of unmatched tile (I can't leave it empty) but I will toss an area rug over the repair. I hope that the base is not attached into the concrete subfloor with bolts. If so, we will have to lift it off the bolts and grind off the bolts. Eventually I would like to have waterproof vinyl plank flooring in the living room, kitchen, hallways and bathrooms. $$$ Since the house has some cracks showing the normal Texas settling, and some cracked floor tiles, I think putting in the vinyl plank would be better than tile in that it would "give" with the settling.Anyway, here is a picture of my new work shoes. They have sparkly threads that show up in the sunlight. They are Sketcher "work shoes" and have a hard toe in case I drop a pipe panel or cabinet on my foot. (Been there - done that).
So cute and incredibly comfortable! LOL
Mike CHS
Herd Master
Those shoes are a whole lot more practical than my Crocs and safer but I will probably learn to be safer when I grow up.
Baymule
Herd Master
Brilliant idea on the counter top into a kitchen island!
