The journey into the abyss of no return

SageHill

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Really p* me off to get unsocialized animals. Tried slap shot to give ivermectin, nope got one that’s it and if I got it good enough. Starved them for three days and still too jumpy running away.
For what it's worth - my sheep who will gladly mow you over for animal crackers, will try to run for the hills when it's time to drench or vaccinate them. Granted they are sheep and not pigs but without my dog(s) and a small pen to do the "packed pen" routine (typically the lambs) or my chutes with stop gates and guillotine gates I'd be SOL.
 

farmerjan

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Why are you so determined that they have to be wormed? You do not have "lard type" hogs... they look to be in good flesh for their longer length... injectible wormer is just not good for hogs as it does not get absorbed through the fat as much...I am not saying that worming would not help them... but you do not have enough of a controlled place to worm them easily.
Try something simpler like piperzine... any soluble pig/poultry wormer in their water and make it the only available water source for them... Do not water for a day... next day make up a 5 gal bucket's worth, and that is all they get to drink... 2 days in a row.....it's done. If they are eating, they will drink... make it on the weak side.
I had hogs that never got wormed... it works better if done in milk and given half their normal amount for feeding to they really go after it... add the wormer just before pouring it in for them so it does not get a taste from sitting there.
 

farmerjan

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Yeah, I suggested that... so ... MY BAD ..... except that if they are giving you that much trouble, it might just not be worth it... Are they still showing signs of lice on the outside of the skin????

Would have thought that they would be more at ease around you by now , with going in to feed them.

I am trying to think of something else to use... I used to "dust" their bedding sometimes... Piperzine will only help with internal parasites... How about a safeguard molasses wormer block? I have not had any problems with the cattle overeating it... although they say to leave it out for only xx number of days... the hogs might like it if it is in there, to gnaw on.... don't put it with wet food... it will dissolve and some might get too much... safeguard is okayed for hogs too... maybe a different dose, but with that many, you could leave it in there 2 days, take it out, put it back a couple days later... if they don't devour it all at once... safeguard works on internal, and external through the pores of the skin...

Apologies for not remembering that I suggested it... Ivermectin is very forgiving so pretty safe... I don't know if they make a liquid "flavored one", like the horse kind in the tube....
 

SageHill

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Take a look at livestock handling systems. They are expensive as all get out - BUT it will give you ideas of something you could set up to “doctor”, weigh, etc. Hog panels and t-posts can be used making it affordable. Get a livestock scale - set it in a run way and you can get accurate weights easily. I was going to go the measuring tape route, compare to “knowns” etc - didn’t get reliable results. Glad I got it and have no regrets.
Definitely check out handling systems and you’ll get ideas.
 

Baymule

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I have purchased drop gates and a folding end gate for my sheep handling equipment. I link them together with hog panels, a half panel for a short span so I can trap them in a small space.

I have 2 of these.

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One of these

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One of these

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Pen, leads to a Half hog panel-1 guillotine gate, then2 hog panels, then 1 guillotine gate, half hog panel, then stop gate, half hog panel, then sorting gate.


With your skills, you could make these. They have tabs on them for connecting the pieces together by dropping rods in the tab holes. Hog panels don’t have tabs, so it’s all tied together with hay string and T-posts.
 

Baymule

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The sorting gate opens up to either the pasture or to a small holding pen where I can back the trailer in up close and run hog panels from sorting gate to trailer. For the gap between trailer and ground, I place feed bags stuffed with feed bags for a visual barrier. Eh. It works.
 

SageHill

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Here’s some of what I set up. This is weighing- you can see the scale in the small chute. Stop gate and guillotine gates (like @Baymule ). I have used hog panels, but am adding the Premier 1 as I go here and there.

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Good view of the scale.
I don’t have the sort gate - yet - that’s next on my list. For the time being I can set up the same thing w/o the scale and just open one of the side panels to sort.
Premier also has a spiral wire thingie (technical term 🤣) that works great connecting hog panels.
 

Mini Horses

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I use panels from my old mini horse days...similar to a smaller pole gate, look wise -- with connector hooks on ends. They get used for loading channels, sorting and making birthing jugs! Fast fence repair, too 😁. Only 3' tall, 7 or 8' long....very handy. I can hook them into any configuration. Strong, too.
 

Ridgetop

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Hogs work better when they can't see out, that is why pig boards are solid. Hogs are so powerful that light weight portable pens won't hld them. Since you can weld, you might be better off using old gates and metal fencing to make yur own. Then put plywood over the frames with U-bolts. (You will be able to figure out something better, I only suggest stuff that I can do on my own.) Or set up a very small area where the hogs pack tight and then work them that way. Actually the best worming method for hiogs is the add to water method that FarmerJan outlined. It's the easiest way to go.
 
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