whats the best rabbit for begginers to produce meat?
- Thread starter Evelle
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CCourson05
Ridin' The Range
Some say New Zealands, some Californias, some say cross the two...
Some say Florida Whites. :/
Some say Florida Whites. :/
DKRabbitry
Ridin' The Range
I say the very best meat rabbit is the one that appeals to you, has the temperament you like, suits your needs, and is available/affordable to you. One of my best meat rabbit producers is an $8 mutt doe. I do not keep rabbits if I don't like the way they look or the way they act. All rabbits are made of meat, I am just raising meat for my family, so I have a mix of a lot of different breeds that I like having around. From minis to giants, I eat them all without prejudice.
ETA: My personal favorite breed is Champagne D'Argent. They are just wonderful breed as a whole and suite my needs perfectly. Read more here: http://www.backyardherds.com/web/viewblog.php?id=3525-champ-rabbit
ETA: My personal favorite breed is Champagne D'Argent. They are just wonderful breed as a whole and suite my needs perfectly. Read more here: http://www.backyardherds.com/web/viewblog.php?id=3525-champ-rabbit
AZ Rabbits
Ridin' The Range
What is your goal? Are you wanting to maximize feed to meat ratios? Are you wanting to make every penny count? Or are you just wanting something that would be fun and also a half decent meat rabbit?Evelle said:
If you're a beginner, and you don't intend to show, it's less important to focus on the optimal breed. Californians and new zealands are the most popular but if you're not showing them competetively, you can cross them with each other or cross them with other meat sized breeds like satins, harliquins, champagn d'argents, palaminos or even rare breeds like silver fox, American, or American chincillas. There is something to be said for having meat mutts. If you're also intrested in keeping the fur, Satins and American Chinchillas are good choices.
Florida white rabbits are smaller, but are also very popular with meat breeders becuase of their meat to bone ratio (I've heard them described as "meat bricks"). If you go that route, they should not be crossed with larger meat breeds or even with other rabbits their size.
What is important, as a beginner, is that you get rabbits that have a good temperment. Get friendly, well adjusted rabbits who don't mind being handled and are not aggressive. And for your does, it's especially important to ask the breeder what kind of mother they are (it's better to get a doe with at least one litter under her belt or from a breeder that focuses on producing good mothers). Any halfway decent rabbit breeder will talk your ear off about their rabbits so don't be afraid to ask questions.
Above all it's important to get rabbits you'll enjoy having becuase they'll need daily care and attention, and nothing takes the shine off rabbit keeping like mean, spastic, or incompetent rabbits.
Florida white rabbits are smaller, but are also very popular with meat breeders becuase of their meat to bone ratio (I've heard them described as "meat bricks"). If you go that route, they should not be crossed with larger meat breeds or even with other rabbits their size.
What is important, as a beginner, is that you get rabbits that have a good temperment. Get friendly, well adjusted rabbits who don't mind being handled and are not aggressive. And for your does, it's especially important to ask the breeder what kind of mother they are (it's better to get a doe with at least one litter under her belt or from a breeder that focuses on producing good mothers). Any halfway decent rabbit breeder will talk your ear off about their rabbits so don't be afraid to ask questions.
Above all it's important to get rabbits you'll enjoy having becuase they'll need daily care and attention, and nothing takes the shine off rabbit keeping like mean, spastic, or incompetent rabbits.
zzGypsy
Ridin' The Range
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jumping in on this post because I'm new too...
I have my first 4 rabbits - three does and a buck - all NZ crosses. I picked them because 1) they were pretty
2) they were available locally 3) they're not pets, but are still easy to handle 4) they are NZ crosses and i've been told they're a good meat rabbits breed.
they're supposed to be NZ/California crosses, but I've got a brindle, a gray apricot calico (no white), a wild-colored tan (black ear tips) and a glossy black. I'm expecting we'll have kits 3 weeks from wed. if all things go on schedule.
I also figured I'd start with inexpensive rabbits so if I have issues or make errors, it's not on rare or expensive stock.
I've got them currently in my wire dog crates, but need better hutch arrangements before they have their litters.
I do have some open runs in my dog kennel building - I'd like to move them in there for the moment as they space is better than the dog crates, at least until I get my hutches sorted out in a couple weeks.
so I have two questions
how small a space can a rabbit get through? the kennel runs have 2x4 heavy welded grid, but the bottom of the grid is about 2" off the cement floor of the kennel building. can a rabbit squeeze through the 2x4 or under the 2" gap?
after the bunnies are weaned, what space do they need for grow-out? will a 5x6' pen per litter do? how old before they have to be separated?
thanks for your help!
I have my first 4 rabbits - three does and a buck - all NZ crosses. I picked them because 1) they were pretty
2) they were available locally 3) they're not pets, but are still easy to handle 4) they are NZ crosses and i've been told they're a good meat rabbits breed.they're supposed to be NZ/California crosses, but I've got a brindle, a gray apricot calico (no white), a wild-colored tan (black ear tips) and a glossy black. I'm expecting we'll have kits 3 weeks from wed. if all things go on schedule.
I also figured I'd start with inexpensive rabbits so if I have issues or make errors, it's not on rare or expensive stock.
I've got them currently in my wire dog crates, but need better hutch arrangements before they have their litters.
I do have some open runs in my dog kennel building - I'd like to move them in there for the moment as they space is better than the dog crates, at least until I get my hutches sorted out in a couple weeks.
so I have two questions
how small a space can a rabbit get through? the kennel runs have 2x4 heavy welded grid, but the bottom of the grid is about 2" off the cement floor of the kennel building. can a rabbit squeeze through the 2x4 or under the 2" gap?
after the bunnies are weaned, what space do they need for grow-out? will a 5x6' pen per litter do? how old before they have to be separated?
thanks for your help!
lastfling
Loving the herd life
A good rule of thumb is if they can get their head thru, the rest will follow. 2x4 grid, may allow one thru if they're determined.
loretta212
Exploring the pasture
ok awesome post ! i want to start rabbits for meat this spring. I have a 2 year old who loves to help with our chickens and quials so I would need a friendly type to keep as they would also be pets to my son as well as food any information i can get is awesome and links i can read up on are great as well! I am in CT so if anyone knows the area and anyone who raises rabbit for meat please let me know! thank you!
smiles-n-sunshine
Chillin' with the herd
I've only raised New Zealands, and haven't seriously considered any other breed - even after seeing them all at the American Rabbit Breeders Association's national convention.
From what I've gathered from reading and talking to people, the larger breeds tend to be less aggressive than smaller breeds, and are easier to handle. In my own herd, I've noticed differences in temperament between animals, even littermates raised exactly the same way. Some tolerate being removed from the cage for breeding and physical exams, some attack my hand when I reach for them. I haven't noticed a correlation with mothering skills, so I don't cull the nasty ones - just wear more armor
From what I've gathered from reading and talking to people, the larger breeds tend to be less aggressive than smaller breeds, and are easier to handle. In my own herd, I've noticed differences in temperament between animals, even littermates raised exactly the same way. Some tolerate being removed from the cage for breeding and physical exams, some attack my hand when I reach for them. I haven't noticed a correlation with mothering skills, so I don't cull the nasty ones - just wear more armor
