Baymule’s Journal

[Baymule]

This Doublewide Diva lives in a 1999 model.

But 2x2 rafters? Really? What’s that supposed to hold up? Toilet paper?

 

[SageHill]

>> There is is, I live in a sh!thole! I am not only trailer trash, I’m TRASHY TRAILER TRASH! Hahaha! <<
Hey - what'cha calling a sh!thole? an' who's Triple T? Certainly not @Baymule the tireless worker who bulldozes (or should I say "mules") through things getting them done?? (yeah I saw the ha ha ha _
--
But OMG 2x2s??? eeeeeeek!! Time for all of us to give the builder "The Look" !! Good news - you don't get much snow!

 

[Larsen Poultry Ranch]

That's awesome you are making progress with your roof. That really sucks that you found 2*2s.

Hubby is going to do the same thing with our roof. He thinks some of the rafters are 2*3s. The current plan is to only peel back enough roof at a time that we could cover with a tarp, and determine if the decking or rafters need replacement. The shingles definitely do, as does the tar paper over the decking. If the rafters and walls look strong enough, he's going to try to furr in longer pieces for the rafters to give us a bit of an eave, so the rainwater can drip off the house instead of directly down the wall. We got a bunch of free shingles from the neighbor, but will probably need to buy another pallet worth of shingles to do the whole roof.

I was wondering if we should try to add the reflective liner stuff when we remove the decking? Or would the nails from the decking cause it to not work correctly?

 

[Baymule]

I didn’t use the heat barrier. It needs ventilation such as raised ribs in metal roofing for the heat to escape. Otherwise the heat just stays there.

 

[SageHill]

That's awesome you are making progress with your roof. That really sucks that you found 2*2s.

Hubby is going to do the same thing with our roof. He thinks some of the rafters are 2*3s. The current plan is to only peel back enough roof at a time that we could cover with a tarp, and determine if the decking or rafters need replacement. The shingles definitely do, as does the tar paper over the decking. If the rafters and walls look strong enough, he's going to try to furr in longer pieces for the rafters to give us a bit of an eave, so the rainwater can drip off the house instead of directly down the wall. We got a bunch of free shingles from the neighbor, but will probably need to buy another pallet worth of shingles to do the whole roof.

I was wondering if we should try to add the reflective liner stuff when we remove the decking? Or would the nails from the decking cause it to not work correctly?

We've got that reflective board in our roofing - it makes a HUGE difference. Obviously have to have the vents - if I remember correctly we've got O'Hagen (?) vents, the roof is concrete tile, looks like fat shingles.

 

[Ridgetop]

I don't suppose you could have scabbed in some heavier beams - like 2x4's?

If the rafters and walls look strong enough, he's going to try to furr in longer pieces for the rafters to give us a bit of an eave, so the rainwater can drip off the house instead of directly down the wall.

We did that on the west facing side of our house because the afternoon sun beat in so badly. Made a big difference in the summer heat beating through the large windows in the afternoon. If you don't have enough structure to furr out from existing rafters, try placing new beams on the support wall and lifting the roof a bit to cover the change in elevation. The two angles might look odd but if you keep enough slope you will still have drainage.

Baymule: Have you found any more rotted roofing?

 

[Baymule]

Two of the men at church convinced me to do a metal roof. So I took the shingles back this afternoon. Never took them off the trailer, so just hitched up the trailer, Carson jumped in the back seat and we went to McCoys and returned them. I placed an order for galvalume R panels plus the trim and screws. It will be ready next Friday, week from tomorrow.

Neighbor Chase came over this morning. We pulled up the two OSB on the front and laid down 1/2” plywood. Now front edge is plywood, 5 sheets. We put drip edge across the front and rolled out, tacked down, 1 strip of 48” wide underlayment. It was 11:15 and we were done.

The back half of the house still needs the edge sheets of OSB pulled up and 1/2” plywood put down.

I’ll have to buy 1x4’s for lath to put the metal roof on. NOW I can put the radiant heat barrier on the roof!

Metal was only $300 more than the shingles. I won’t have to put on another roof. This will be it. Done.

Right now it’s 99 F heat index is 107F
Anatolians are in the front yard so they can go under the porch. Afternoon sun hits the back of the house, front is in shade. I’m going to feed them in the porch later this evening.

 

[Ridgetop]

Excellent to do metal roof. And heat barrier! Also happy to hear that you are putting plywood on the roof instead of OSB. That OSB stuff just disintegrates when water hits it so if you get even a tiny leak, goodbye roof. Happened to my aunt's barn in Yelm. Lost a couple shingles and a year later the roof had a gaping hole and the interior OSB loft had melted as well.

Almost done!

 

[Mini Horses]

PLUS...that metal will go on much faster....less weight on unit.

 

[Baymule]

I’m not replacing all the decking, just at front and back edge.

I need another alarm clock. My old one died but I had an extra. That alarm is too quiet and I slept through it for an hour!