If the eyelids are white looking, does that mean they need wormed???

cmjust0

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elevan said:
Cydectin is currently the best dewormer available in the US. Caution should be used that it doesn't get overused and end up with the same problems with resistance that the other drugs do.
I personally don't think Cydectin's all that much better than anything else at this point.. Barberpole worms seem to have already developed a fierce resistance to it, just as they've developed resistance to everything else. The SCSRPC (now the ACSRPC, with 'A' being 'American' -- they've expanded past just being a 'Southern' organization) couldn't even do a study on whether oral or injected Cydectin worked best because they couldn't find a farm with moxidectin-susceptible worms to test on. I believe the words they used to describe Cydectin were that it was "on its last legs."

And that was like 3-4 years ago.


elevan said:
As to Ivomec given orally and causing internal bleeding? I suspect that someone had a goat with a very heavy wormload and gave them enough Ivomec to dump the entire load at once...which can cause internal bleeding.
x2
 

sunny

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It's been my understanding that Moxidectin only kills the first 3 larval stages of Barber Pole and the Ivermectin kills the fourth adult stage when arrested for the winter. Worming with this in mind I seem to have good results. If your goats are coming out of the winter with living aduts to become active and start laying eggs, you'll be able to knock down the population of larval stages but, nothing will kill those egg laying adults until they arrest again the next winter.
I also have to deal with liver flukes which can be nasty and make for very sick goats with no evidence from fecal and no symptoms until they are going down at times. If you have deer and slugs or land snails, you also have liver fluke IMO. With this in mind I do Ivo-plus on my 100 day bred does and it seems to help keep populations of both parasites lower.

The dosage for Quest that I use is: 1cc per 100lbs. always going a little over if they're a weird weight. If you weigh 92 lbs. here you're getting the full cc.
There have been reports of mini horses ODing from the drug not being properly mixed in the tube so I squirt it into a bowl and stir it up before putting it into a syringe for dosing.
 

cmjust0

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sunny said:
It's been my understanding that Moxidectin only kills the first 3 larval stages of Barber Pole and the Ivermectin kills the fourth adult stage when arrested for the winter.
Dormant worms aren't adults yet. The L3's (1 stage shy of adult) go into dormancy (hypobiosis, to be technically accurate :p ) and just kinda hang out over the winter as larvae, not really doing much. When they get the green light* that it's OK to start laying eggs, they molt again into L4 adults. I don't know of any dewormers which do not target L4's, but there are some which won't kill anything less than an L4. Some, however, are designed to kill all stages, and my understanding is that both Ivermectin and Moxidectin fall into that category. If you read the label for Cydectin, it mentions 'adult and immature' stages for haemonchus contortus...aka, barberpole.

Worming with this in mind I seem to have good results. If your goats are coming out of the winter with living aduts to become active and start laying eggs, you'll be able to knock down the population of larval stages but, nothing will kill those egg laying adults until they arrest again the next winter.
That's a really good strategy to employ, but perhaps not for the reasons you're employing it. If you deworm heavily in the early spring, what you're actually doing are killing the earliest adults and some of the L3's, which effectively 'front loads' your deworming schedule for the year. Let's say you kill 10 (totally arbitrary number) of the very first worms of the season.. Those 10 could potentially have laid 5,000 eggs/day for about 3wks. That's literally 1-million eggs you just took out. Assuming even a 0.5% egg survival/re-infestation rate, you just effectively eliminated 5,000 worms out of generation 2, which would have been sucking blood and laying 100,000 eggs a piece in a few short weeks. You could keep doing the math until you figured generations all the way through, say, late September, and your numbers would be astounding....which is most likely why you're having success with this strategy.

Like I said, it's a very good one, in my opinion. The best one we have available to us right now, so far as I'm concerned..

Down the road, I think what's going to happen is that someone, somewhere, is going to find something that effects an extremely high kill rate on these little b*stards as L3 dormant larvae, and it's going to be something we do mid-winter to effectively *RID* our goats of these things once a year...and not really have to worry about them after that. Oh, what a day that will be. :D

But until then, your strategy is -- again, in my opinion -- spot on perfect as the very best that we can do at the moment. :)
 

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Only way to KNOW would be to have an FEC ran, deworm w/ the pellets at the correct dosage, and then have another FEC ran.

*I* personally don't bother w/ them b/c I don't have time to hand feed 40 or so goats their correct dosage.
 

sunny

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The only misconception being that my goats are 100 days pregnant in January and Febuary to kid in March and April. So this is their mid-winter worming.

Not to argue (too much) but the L4 is the blood sucking young adult and the L5 stage is the egg laying adults that they turn into. L4 is the stage that causes the most damage to the host and hibernates in the stomach wall. At least that is what I was taught. Ivermectin is still killing a lot of these arrested worms here. Cydectin never did work well on that form for me.

. So, let's find this miracle wormer, I really could use the money :D While we're at it let's find something, easy to apply, that kills eggs, larvae, and cocci in the pens with out being poisonous to the goats and sheep, killing beneficial insects. or creating resistance.
 

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If I have fed Pelleted wormer how long should I wait to worm with Quest.
 

sunny

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Which pellet wormer did you use? I can look up the drug interaction for you.
 

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I have heard diatomaceous earth is good to sprinkle in the pen. I do it in their bedding & high traffic areas. I also sprinkle it on them externally about once a month. They still will get fecals & wormed when they need it. They were all wormed recently when they came to me (Ivermec) but I will be having the vet out at some point soon & running fecals on everyone. We are taking baby steps I just now got all their hooves looking pretty good & they all are up to date on their CD&T & baby has gotten her cocci preventative. I probably will have the vet out in January after the Christmas bill is taken care of lol. I'll also be sending in my goaties' bloodwork then I assume.
 

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