SICK AGAIN! My baby was vomiting, coccidia tx dosage needed...

[Beekissed]

Well, that explains a lot and it sure is a shame that an animal that was once considered extremely hardy and could eat anything without getting sick is now a problem to raise.

I guess it is the same around here with the wool breeds of sheep in the area....I was advised against getting sheep by everyone with which I spoke. All the old farmers told me that sheep are born, stand up and immediately look around for a way to die.

Knowing that...or at least feeling that way...it is a wonder to me also why anyone would get into sheep, especially in a big way.

The farmer I buy mine from is selling every sheep this week because he had over 25 head killed by a family of bears and he can't keep this from happening.

Sorry, free...didn't mean to hijack your thread but I always have the need to ask "why" and to understand....got a thirst for knowledge!

Back to your goaties and your Corid problem..... can't wait to see what you find.

 

[Roll farms]

Found this in another thread....regarding corid dosage:

Not even close. Remember I said extrememly high doseage? It's 6 1/4 cc per 25 lb, used undiluted right from the bottle, for 5 days.

That's for the corid liquid 9.6% solution....does the package say how to mix it w/ water to achieve that strength???
(ie, if it says "mix w/ 100 gallons of water to reach 9.6%...maybe you could mix 1/100 of the package w/ 1 gallon of water to reach the right strength....?)


In regards to the questions Bee posted...

#1.
A) If you're 'doing it right'...they're NOT a financial hardship or worry...
I haven't lost a goat in years....and the last one was to an accident...which they are prone to....other than worry about "How can they find a way to break a leg today...?" I don't 'worry' about them.

I spend more money on feed / hay than I do on meds...the meds I buy are preventative for the most part (other than my emergency stash for when they get injured)...and other than routine care, good pasture, and pen maintenance / clean up....They're not much work.

(We've had horses, llamas, alpacas, sheep, rabbits, pigs, cattle, and the goats are the only ones who've made it long term because, for our situation, they're the ones who fit us the best.)

B) Some of the folks here either buy goats and THEN wonder about what to do with / for them or buy them from unscrupulous breeders or sale barns....so you can see the exact same symptoms / questions posted over and over but it's generally the same situation...

"I'm new, my goat is ______. HELP!"

#2.
I'm also of the opinion that raising dairy goats in confined situations has weakened the gene pool...and that trying to raise Boer goats (from dry Africa, where they browse thousands of acres) in a 50 x 200' pen has helped create stronger bugs and weaker animals.

Our first goats never got a shot, medicine, special mineral, etc...but they weren't fancy, just Nubs I bought from a lady down the road...who'd been breeding them for 20 years as back yard milkers.

I bought some pedigreed goats later on...and then...pedigreed Boer goats....and thus began the education of Kim on all the different ailments and illnesses goats can have / get / live with / die from.

Another thing to note....30 years ago, CAE and CL weren't really blips on the radar....so nobody freaked out / tested / etc. You see several posts related to these 'new' problems that the 'hardy herds of the past' didn't get.

We do breed for hardier stock here w/ our herd. If I have to deworm a goat a lot....she's gone. If they have foot problems...*poof*
I sell them to pet homes or for food. (Can't bring myself to eat one, but I don't mind selling them to be eaten.)

I won't say they shouldn't be owned as pets, b/c our first goats were pets...but if you're A) unwilling to learn / provide proper care before getting the animal(s) and B) unable financially to provide said proper care, then you do not need them.

If the only place you can afford to get a goat from is a sale barn....you do not need goats, and I will stand by that comment until I die.

(I'm talking about the people who are too cheap to invest in good stock, or the folks who don't have enough money for vet bills if needed, not the spur-of-the-moment, "he's cute, let's get him" types...that happens to the best of us...hence the Patagonian Cavy and Prairie Dog I have as pets...)

Dewormer can be expensive....hay can be expensive in a drought year...a vet call for a stuck kid can be expensive....these things happen and will happen when it's the most inconvenient...it's Murphy's Goat Law.

50% of the posts you see could probably have been avoided if the proper preventative care had been done or if the proper research had been done before buying the goats to begin with....and that's not a slam on anyone....nobody's born knowing everything and you can't help what the previous owner did / didn't do that they should / shouldn't have.

Being willing to learn, and the WILL to do what's needed...are the main 'requirement' for goat ownership. JMHO....

 

[Shiloh Acres]

Free, just wanted to say I'm glad it sounds like they are doing better, and I hope you get the info and supplies you need to proceed. I hope they continue to improve.

I SO get what some of you are saying. I don't believe in pulling out meds and dosing every sniffle. I use mostly natural products myself and herbs, and honestly myself and my family have been much healthier for it, IMO, compared to when I used to go the more conventional route. It's not that I think medicine is evil, I just consider not the first resort in pretty much 90% of what I face, and I usually am able to treat without it for both humans and animals. An emergency situation is different, and where life is at stake I would be most likely to hit it hard quickly. And be thankful that I get a good response, thanks maybe in part to not having overused it.

I often asked myself the same question. How is it that my grandparents kept animals without medicated feed (or any feed at all in most cases), without wormers, without vets? And there were few losses or sicknesses? The worst case I remember was when a hunting dog got snakebit on the nose. He pulled through too, btw. So how come now I'm told I'm asking for trouble to try to raise a chick without medicated feed?

I've gone a much more natural route with most of my animals for years, very successfully. That was my initial goal with the goats too. After just a few months with them, I'm starting to wonder if it's going to be possible. I've even considered a few months of drylot conditions to fight these blasted barberpoles, and there is not much I hate worse than seeing animals on drylot. So no, I probably won't do it, but I wish now I had a lot more fenced acreage for some major pasture rotation.

Just wanted to sympathize, more than anything. My goats are maybe less medicated than many out there, but I've still had to use antibiotics and wormers in this short time, as well as probiotics and supplements (which I don't mind or count as "meds").

Anyway, I'll keep learning. Just have to keep them ALIVE by whatever means in the meantime, sigh.

 

[freemotion]

Found this in another thread....regarding corid dosage:

Not even close. Remember I said extrememly high doseage? It's 6 1/4 cc per 25 lb, used undiluted right from the bottle, for 5 days.

That's for the corid liquid 9.6% solution....does the package say how to mix it w/ water to achieve that strength???
(ie, if it says "mix w/ 100 gallons of water to reach 9.6%...maybe you could mix 1/100 of the package w/ 1 gallon of water to reach the right strength....?)

Front of package: Amprolium 20% soluble powder

Excerpts from the back (slightly edited so I can get it up here faster): Drench, 5 day treatment: 3 oz Corid to 1 qt water, one ounce per 100 lbs bodyweight. =10 mg amprolium per 2.2 lbs bodyweight.

Also: There are 220 mg of amprolium in every 1 gram of corid powder.

Help me with the math, it is late!

 

[freemotion]

Idea: do you know what the multiplier is for that 9.6 % solution? Is it 3, 4, 5 times the calf dosage? I could use that as a guage, too, maybe.....

 

[Roll farms]

Math's never gonna be my best subject...*but*

If that's 20% powder, I'll assume the 3 oz to 1 qt equals 20% solution, and that'd be about double the 9.6%, yes?

So mix 3 oz w/ 1 qt water, then dose at half the rate listed for the 9.6% solution.....?

So....3 1/8 cc per 25#.

But...I could be way...WAY off...just trying to help.

edited to fix a typo...not teaspoon, cc...sheesh, we're not making pie.

 

[freemotion]

That makes sense, but....I vaguely remember that thread you quoted. The "extremely high dosage" refered to using more than the label called for....how much more?

*runs off to find thread, realizing that the lack of spellcheck will make it extrememly easy to find...

 

[freemotion]

Found it:

helmstead wrote:
aggieterpkatie wrote:
Dosage for 9.6% Corid (5 day treatment, not 21 day prevention) is 1 mL per 21 lbs of body weight daily for 5 days.

Not even close. Remember I said extrememly high doseage? It's 6 1/4 cc per 25 lb, used undiluted right from the bottle, for 5 days.

Roll, yes you generally have to order DiMethox or beg a vet for Albon. I never even bother recommending Sulmet anymore. The corid will work...at the above dosage...and IMO is better than Sulmet.

But then we get back to the fact that we're not just dealing with cocci here, more than likely...which is prolly why you wanted a sulfa...but the Pen will cover that.



Ok, well I was going off the dosage on the label.

Hmm, that copy/paste came out funny. Well. It seems like it is about 6x the label dosage....ok, before I google it, is a cc and an ml the same? Sheesh. I learned metrics decades ago...

ETA: According to Wiki, they are the same....cc and ml, that is.

 

[freemotion]

3 x the label dosage since it is double the strength....

I'd better sleep on this!

 

[helmstead]

You're on the right track. The solution from powder will not be shelf stable, so mix as little as you can manage the math on at a time (maybe a pint?). Keep it in the fridge, and toss after a week.

Now...go to BED!