The journey into the abyss of no return

Weldman

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I will just get a smaller bolt and weld it to it with MIG and unscrew it that way. Does two things, one is heat it up to break it loose and two something to grab onto. Now hard part is the holes that are egged out, going to need to resize them larger which requires mag drill with some annular cutters and a tap.
 

SageHill

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Really p* me off to get unsocialized animals. Tried slap shot to give ivermectin, nope got one that’s it and if I got it good enough. Starved them for three days and still too jumpy running away.
For what it's worth - my sheep who will gladly mow you over for animal crackers, will try to run for the hills when it's time to drench or vaccinate them. Granted they are sheep and not pigs but without my dog(s) and a small pen to do the "packed pen" routine (typically the lambs) or my chutes with stop gates and guillotine gates I'd be SOL.
 

Weldman

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I think I might try this since there is no chutes or anything. Will have the next area set up better, this whole replacing transmission on dump truck, two differentials, threatened to be fined for a public nuisance and few other things in between sure screwed up my summer and plans. It's as if I had it taken away from me, now I feel I might need another summer off from building my house to catch up.
Screenshot 2024-07-27 at 13-33-34 Decker Hog Catcher eBay.png
 

farmerjan

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Why are you so determined that they have to be wormed? You do not have "lard type" hogs... they look to be in good flesh for their longer length... injectible wormer is just not good for hogs as it does not get absorbed through the fat as much...I am not saying that worming would not help them... but you do not have enough of a controlled place to worm them easily.
Try something simpler like piperzine... any soluble pig/poultry wormer in their water and make it the only available water source for them... Do not water for a day... next day make up a 5 gal bucket's worth, and that is all they get to drink... 2 days in a row.....it's done. If they are eating, they will drink... make it on the weak side.
I had hogs that never got wormed... it works better if done in milk and given half their normal amount for feeding to they really go after it... add the wormer just before pouring it in for them so it does not get a taste from sitting there.
 

Weldman

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Why are you so determined that they have to be wormed? You do not have "lard type" hogs... they look to be in good flesh for their longer length... injectible wormer is just not good for hogs as it does not get absorbed through the fat as much...I am not saying that worming would not help them... but you do not have enough of a controlled place to worm them easily.
Try something simpler like piperzine... any soluble pig/poultry wormer in their water and make it the only available water source for them... Do not water for a day... next day make up a 5 gal bucket's worth, and that is all they get to drink... 2 days in a row.....it's done. If they are eating, they will drink... make it on the weak side.
I had hogs that never got wormed... it works better if done in milk and given half their normal amount for feeding to they really go after it... add the wormer just before pouring it in for them so it does not get a taste from sitting there.
Screenshot 2024-07-27 at 17-35-04 The journey into the abyss of no return Page 48 BackYardHerd...png
 

farmerjan

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Yeah, I suggested that... so ... MY BAD ..... except that if they are giving you that much trouble, it might just not be worth it... Are they still showing signs of lice on the outside of the skin????

Would have thought that they would be more at ease around you by now , with going in to feed them.

I am trying to think of something else to use... I used to "dust" their bedding sometimes... Piperzine will only help with internal parasites... How about a safeguard molasses wormer block? I have not had any problems with the cattle overeating it... although they say to leave it out for only xx number of days... the hogs might like it if it is in there, to gnaw on.... don't put it with wet food... it will dissolve and some might get too much... safeguard is okayed for hogs too... maybe a different dose, but with that many, you could leave it in there 2 days, take it out, put it back a couple days later... if they don't devour it all at once... safeguard works on internal, and external through the pores of the skin...

Apologies for not remembering that I suggested it... Ivermectin is very forgiving so pretty safe... I don't know if they make a liquid "flavored one", like the horse kind in the tube....
 

Weldman

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Yeah, I suggested that... so ... MY BAD ..... except that if they are giving you that much trouble, it might just not be worth it... Are they still showing signs of lice on the outside of the skin????

Would have thought that they would be more at ease around you by now , with going in to feed them.

I am trying to think of something else to use... I used to "dust" their bedding sometimes... Piperzine will only help with internal parasites... How about a safeguard molasses wormer block? I have not had any problems with the cattle overeating it... although they say to leave it out for only xx number of days... the hogs might like it if it is in there, to gnaw on.... don't put it with wet food... it will dissolve and some might get too much... safeguard is okayed for hogs too... maybe a different dose, but with that many, you could leave it in there 2 days, take it out, put it back a couple days later... if they don't devour it all at once... safeguard works on internal, and external through the pores of the skin...

Apologies for not remembering that I suggested it... Ivermectin is very forgiving so pretty safe... I don't know if they make a liquid "flavored one", like the horse kind in the tube....
I have a memory like an elephant and it ticks the wife off, so don't feel bad. It's why I have so much problem with combat, it never left.
Anywho It's not just getting them shots, I need to get weights and it's not happening. I need to get them under more control, only control I have is feeding, watering and putting a round between the eyes to slaughter.
Just notice them missing fur and that's it.
Cracklin' is a different story, I have went from getting nowhere near me to he comes running up he will allow me to scratch his belly, butt and head. Might jump at first and standoffish, but with water down and feed he will definitely allow me to scratch him.
I could get a block and see what happens. Even the wife tried thinking they are sensing my rage, nope.
 

SageHill

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Take a look at livestock handling systems. They are expensive as all get out - BUT it will give you ideas of something you could set up to “doctor”, weigh, etc. Hog panels and t-posts can be used making it affordable. Get a livestock scale - set it in a run way and you can get accurate weights easily. I was going to go the measuring tape route, compare to “knowns” etc - didn’t get reliable results. Glad I got it and have no regrets.
Definitely check out handling systems and you’ll get ideas.
 
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