Trailer Wishlist

farmerjan

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Comfort of animals is fine, but if pulling for any distance, allowing the animals to have too much moving room is one of the most dangerous things you can do. They should not have room to turn around nor should they be able to swing their weight around. If only transporting one or only a cow calf pair, the cow should be in the front and the calf in the back if you feel they need to be separate. That is only necessary if the calf is very young so it does not get stepped on... a 16 ft trailer can easily transport 4 / 1200 lb cows and their calves. We regularly move 6 cow calf pairs in the 20 ft trailer to pastures and back.. they do not have alot of room for them to start moving around too much and their weight does not cause the trailer to sway or cause the whipping that will happen with bumper pull type trailers.
 

Margali

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So hubby said he could almost anything with the F350 diesel. I think I'm going to stick to upgraded crate in existing trailer for Cassandra and me trips.

What are people's thoughts for a 3horse with living quarters for family trips? I think all 3 kids would fit up on the bed platform. I would make a murphy bed for grownups. Low headroom in bed area is a non-starter for me and hubby.

EXAMPLE TRAILER PICS OF FB for conversation.
3 horse slant inside.jpg3 horse slant.jpg
How many sheep and pigs fit in a 2 horse slant area? What about if we made it straight across in living quarters steeling some animal room?
 
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farmerjan

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What are the dimensions of the animal area? What is the overall width and length of the trailer? I am not a fan of slant horse stalls in trailers, and have no idea of the space they take up. You need to figure what the area is then you can get an idea of what animals will fit.
If the trailer is from that area, then frame should not be a big consideration. BUT, you want to make sure it is not rusted/rotted. Looks like it might be a good buy and yes, the 350 will haul that with no problem. We haul 12,000 lbs or more of cattle in a gooseneck with the 250 to move to pasture. That trailer will be alot heavier than an aluminum one. We have a steel framed trailer and the aluminum one... I prefer the steel trailer... it is 20 ft long and we haul about 8-9 full size cows ... the aluminum one is 24 ft and a smidgeon wider and can haul 12 full size cows... or up to about 18-20 5 wt calves. So if it is say 7 ft wide and the animal area is 7x10 or 7x12... divided in half for sheep and pigs...you are looking at a 7x5 or 6 area.... back of a pickup long bed is 4x8 more or less, with the extra space on the sides around where the wheel well sticks in a little. I'd say 3-5 head of each maybe?
 

Ridgetop

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Here is my opinion - it is free so take it for what you paid for it! LOL

Living space horse trailers are big favorites of the horse show crowd BUT the living area adds weight which burns extra gas and if you are going to a day show, hauling animals to auction, picking up new stock, or using the trailer for any purpose, it is not worth the extra length and cost. Also, slant load horse trailer dividers seldom go to the floor which is what you will need when transporting sheep and lambs or other small livestock. You lose floor space with the slant load feature. Slant loads are for transporting more horses on a shorter trailer length while allowing extra space for tack or a changing room for show people in the front or back of the trailer. If you have horses and are trailering to shows or out to ride, this might be an option for you, otherwise, I am not in favor of living space horse trailers. They are too use-specific.

IMO you would be better off with a used Lance camper to put on the 350 truck, and a bumper pull trailer. You can use the camper for trips without the livestock, even pulling additional camping equipment in your current utility trailer. Setting up and leveling a living quarters horse trailer or a camper will take the same time, except the truck and camper is shorter and easier for leveling purposes. If you are going on family camping trips, the Lance camper will be easier to park in State and Federal Park campsites which have smaller camping spaces. Most of them were developed years ago when most people camped in tents, so they are not really sized for large trailers.

A 16' stock trailer is my favorite size for what you are doing with your sheep. It is large enough to hold plenty of animals for a fair, or to transport to the saleyard. With the center gate you can transport the sheep in one section and bedding, feed, and equipment (including your cooler and chairs) in the other. If you are going to a one-day show, the truck bed is free for anything you need to carry to shows with you if you are not going to be there for several days or a week. For overnight stays you might find that a motel room with free breakfast is cheaper and easier than loading the camper with food, bedding, and all the stuff you will need for just one night.

Let's talk hitches:
The gooseneck requires a special gooseneck hitch which mounts in the bed of the truck. It will need to be removed if you plan to use the truck to haul hay or any large load. It must be installed professionally and like all hitches what you need will be based on the weight you plan to pull. Once the gooseneck is hooked up the tail gate can be closed.

The bumper pull needs to have a hitch as well and can also be pulled without removing the tailgate. Again, the hitch must be sized to the weight of the planned towing.

If you are planning to mount a living space camper you will need to remove the tailgate. Most 11-12' campers extend with a dropdown a foot or so beyond the rear bumper. This means that the tailgate must be removed to mount the camper. Mounting the camper will require a "camper package". This is installation of guides for the camper floor to slide into the bed on, and attachment eyes on the sides of the truck. If you are ordering the truck new, order it with both a camper and tow package. In addition, if you are pulling a trailer while the camper is on the truck, you will need a special extended hitch which must be bolted on to the frame. This requires professional installation and fabrication according to the weight you will be towing and extends the hitch ball far enough past the rear of the camper to allow hitching of the bumper pull trailer. If you are going camping in the camper and truck, you don't need to attach this - only if you are pulling a trailer. like the gooseneck or 5th wheel hitch, it should be removed when not in use with the camper.

Camping at the showgrounds:
If you are going to be staying at the showgrounds for several days, some shows require you to drop the stock trailer in one area and camp in another. BE SURE WHEN ENTERING THE SHOW TO OBTAIN YOUR OVERNIGHT CAMPING PERMITS. Most over-the-cab campers will also have a dinette which makes into a full-size bed. They will sleep up to 5 people in some sort of comfort depending on the size of the people. Some Lance campers even have a fold down bunk bed over the dinette. This can be used for storage when folded up, since it has access doors in the folded position. If you have to drop the trailer, some people will pitch a small 3-person tent behind the camper for the kids to sleep in. This gives more room inside the camper for eating and changing into show clothes. If the showgrounds allow you to park hitched to your trailer, after unloading the livestock clean out the trailer floor in the showgrounds where you have access to manure removal. Spread fresh straw or hay, and the kids can sleep in sleeping bags in the trailer. My boys would hang hammocks in the stock trailer to sleep - big adventure! As you and your kids get to know other people in the sheep show world, other kids might decide to sleep in the trailer with her or invite her to sleep with them. With our group of show friends (several families which lived in different counties) the boys would all sleep one trailer and the girls all bunk up in another. Lasting great memories for our children who are still in touch with some of those kids via Facebook.

There is NO DMV TAX on campers, and the tax on stock trailers is minimal. Since the value of the living quarters slant load horse trailers is higher, the tax will be higher on them. If you license the stock trailer with a farm registration the cost is minimal BUT if you use your trailer to transport anything except farm stuff it is a big ticket fine. And let's face it - we all use our trailers for everything! LOL
 

farmerjan

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Both of our bale bed trucks (flat bed with the bale arms) have the gooseneck hitch set below the flat bed of the truck with a small lift up/fold over flat piece hinged, so when not using the gooseneck you have a flat bed.
If the gooseneck hitch is installed properly, with it below the bed level, it will work better to get the truck/trailer more level. The truck we pull the trailer with most often has the gooseneck ball mounted in the truck bed so yes, it is in the way for laying anything flat. The dually has a hitch assembly for a 5th wheel and interchanges with the gooseneck ball assembly.
If you have any hitch put in, you put in the heaviest that the truck will carry, and then you can haul anything. The bumper hitches are based on the towing capacity of the truck... attached to the frame. The different types of trailers may use different diameter balls... you get a slide in hitch that has a different size ball on each of the 4 sides so accommodate any different size trailer hitch. We have one that has 3 different sized balls and a flat piece with a hole for using a hitch pin with the wagons and other farm equipment.
 
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Margali

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The gooseneck hitch is a plate installed under bed to frame with hitch ball and chain anchors removable above bed. The bumper hitch is a Class 5 hitch receiver. We have to use spacer to go down to receiver size (Class 3?) for 3-way ball hitch that fits my SIL 20ft flat bed and my trailer. This ford was used as a commercial hot shot vehicle and still has the inspection stickers in door frame.
 

farmerjan

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The gooseneck hitch is a plate installed under bed to frame with hitch ball and chain anchors removable above bed. The bumper hitch is a Class 5 hitch receiver. We have to use spacer to go down to receiver size (Class 3?) for 3-way ball hitch that fits my SIL 20ft flat bed and my trailer. This ford was used as a commercial hot shot vehicle and still has the inspection stickers in door frame.
You are more than good to go....whichever way you go...
 

Weldman

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I personally would repack those bearings in the wheels and give the wiring with the electric brakes a look over. What about the age of the tires, y'all know what to look for? Reason is when Texas heat hits, they will eat those tires, especially if they aren't at least 10 ply. Also suggest some white paint on the roof.
 
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